SMD Capacitor Ripped off due to plier slip. Insight, help, very much appreciated. - Page 3 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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SMD Capacitor Ripped off due to plier slip. Insight, help, very much appreciated.

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post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-23-2017, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha thanks for the video on soldering, you should check https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vx50YtEC2S8 RetroGameModz, guy’s been cracking me up on his demonstrations lol. Somewhere I saw that I should take some threads out of the solder wick to use for small jobs like this where one might overwick it and remove too much of the solder.

My fear is, is that the card is probably workable and I may make it unusable. I’m betting on that it’s workable from previous experiences of breaking off smd components from a couple of gpus and a mobo. But even if so, I think this capacitor would likely prevent this gpu from being utilized to its fullest potential with water cooling or cause shut downs with certain tinkers. So I’m gonna post the magnified pics later and see if I should give this a shot biggrin.gif

There were only two chamfers, one on each side and tiny ones at that, on that tiny nut. My pliers teeth had been worn out but it was really because I didn’t put on enough force in my grip because I was scaredy cat for what would happen, which happened lol. After that happened, for the other nuts stuck on the screws, I held the plier like I was gripping Thor’s hammer and really carefully put pressure on the screwdriver and slowly unscrewed as finely as I could. No slips afterwards fortunately.

I haven’t tested it, I thought that it’d be best to get a better scope before I powered the card. And thought I could damage the gpu if I plugged it, could be a coupling capacitor, but you know more than me smile.gif Also I’ll post a better picture next time of the whole circuit board for anyone that’d like to analyze the layout.





Thanks again, for the wonderfully helpful tips and insight. Cheers!
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post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 02:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Btw is it safe to check the gpu card for continuity?
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post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 04:34 AM
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post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 06:20 AM
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Once you get your/a DMM to measure capacitor-values, check the capacitor values of C69 and C70 that are right next to the one that ripped off - they "look" exactly the same

 

this is the downfall of companies not advertising which parts have what value on proprietary & Closed-Source boards, even thought they "look" identical, their values may not be..

 

But im thinking if we get test results of those capacitors value's, yes you will/might get some capacitence from other stuff also connected to the board traces, but you wont be far off, as the board isnt powered up.

 

So post back with those 2 cap-values and we can hope they are the same, then if yo measure the one that broke off and its very similar, we can go about replacing it or soldering it back.

 

I do have one of those fiberglass pencils, ive also cut the tip at an angle for more precise work on boards, be careful using these because they do irritate the skin if not properly disposed of the fibers that break off when using the pencil, have a plastic-bag-lined bin to hand where you can sweep the brushings off of the board straight into the bin :)

 

ps apologies for my spelling mistakes if any, my backup keyboard is on its way out lol


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post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 06:31 AM
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lol also - that RetroGameModz youtube video's are flaming awesome man !! im already subscribed hehe, very COMPREHENSIVE and crisp-clear video's for how he rejuvenates motherboards and other PCB's with his skills, the liquid flux he uses there - the ROSIN based one, is very similar to the one i use but, being me, that stuff WAS too expensive for me so i made my own alcohol based one

 

Violins use ROSIN BLOCKS and these are DIRT CHEAP.

 

Simply crushing these into fine granules then putting them into a bottle that resists alcohol, then using some 99.99% Pure alcohol, i used isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol just shake the bottle till all the rosin disolved, and i get a less viscous liquid flux i can use on PCB's

 

Having no water in the mix is very important as water will corrode PCB's and components

 

Sadly one must work faster with this type of home made flux as the alcohol will evaporate leaving behind a thin layer of Rosin, which can either be cleaned off or not

 

Rosin actually protects PCB's and components


Keeping As Many of my Designs As Open Source As Possible
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post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Just tested my plied off component, it is a 7.75uF capacitor
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post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got the microscope (really nice quality for $27 btw) setup and working. Got to take a pic of the extent of the damage










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post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I’ve been getting continuity from the pad and trace parts, very happy.

Bobcat1969, always a great help with LOADS lol of helpful tips, your messages have are full of useful content. You guys have made this a really good thread to look back on. Wish you all a merry Christmas and happy holidays!

Now on to the hard stuff for me biggrin.gif
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post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Here I took some shots centered on the pad attached side of the capacitor. Any ideas on the situation now or what to do next would be extremely helpful!































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post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 02:20 PM
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Howdy broSki !

 

Once again, its my pleasure, as ive had major help here in this forum, same shall be from me too, 2 way street for help :)

 

Those Images are fantastic - LOVE that lil thing, i eat my hat, these newer USB Digital Microscopes are pretty good at a standard 2MP Quality, Colour me impressed, GREAT BUY !

 

Q: Do you have a Digital Caliper ?

 

as i suspect, the capacitor may be able to be soldered back, could very much be an 0805 SMD Cap - now the very nit-picking fine measurements;

 

an 0805 Sized Cap is, wait for it... lol

 

in mm;

 

2mm x 1.2mm (Yeap, tiny.. lolz)

 

Which a Digital caliper will find it super easy to read for you. Then can order in a replacement but before measuring, did you measure C69 & C70 for me too ? in uF ?

 

Sorry this post might also be info-overload but its what you've been checking out with RetroGameModz on that specific youtube vid :thumb:

 

1 oz copper track/pad thickness is about :devil-smi

0.0347

mm

 So what you can do is get the copper foil, buy once (0.04mm) and you will have it forever for these kinda operations or if you wanna etch a PCB Circuit on heat-proof glass, lol, another hair-brained project of mine under wraps atm lol

 

But 0.05mm will suffice from UK too...

 

Then as the dude has done on the vid, you can cut a new pad out of that, yup the easiest way would be to just try to solder it back to a trace but this isnt advisable, imho

 

As for the epoxy, is that BLACK soldermask on your G_Card ?

 

Okay so we're getting pretty serious for now with all this extra stuff to get hold of, which btw can help greatly in a VAST many other projects, youll also need a UV Source, LED's work fine but im old fashioned so use a BLACKLIGHT damn it lol

 

UV Money checkers that have a flashlight work well for this and are inexpensive, for the Soldermask, i chose a black colour as it looks black, i think...

 

So actually replacing the pad would be my advice, YES its more work, AND you might not even need to, BUT as RetroGameMoz on that VERY VIDEO has exclaimed about that 555 timer circuit needing that Electrolytic Capacitor or the MOTHERBOARD wont even boot up, missing and omiting an important component that the MANUFACTURER HAS SOLDERED, is NEVER a GOOD idea.... 

:devil:

 

that IS MY OPINION ONLY.. and his.. who IS qualified in Electrical ENGINEERING.. im NOT.

 

So.. to be or not to be soldered lol

 

When its done, you would be more proud of the accomplishment too, theres the easy way or the hard, i know which id choose in a heartbeat..

 

Plus, any help you need, you got it, anytime :thumb:


Keeping As Many of my Designs As Open Source As Possible
LAZINESS is the MOTHER of INVENTION !
From 'Knowledge is Power' to 'Sharing Knowledge is More Powerful'
Today, 'knowledge' is considered to be a key resource that fuels society and drives innovation. The power of organizations & individuals comes from what they know, how efficiently they use what they know, & how quickly they learn to apply new knowledge. Mutual learning & collective action among individuals & groups foster innovation; when they collaborate and share knowledge, they are able to avoid repeating the same mistakes and use resources more effectively.
~ Martina Spasiakova

My Github - Soon to Add Water-Chilling Peltier Control Board
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