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post #6371 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 07:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by J7SC View Post
...may be you got banned

I can either physically disconnect the Aorus 2080 Ti WB RGB wires - or: just load the 380w Galax Bios. I don't really need the extra watts (per above), but while it would disable some output ports (I don't need all of them anyway) that would also disable the RGB on the GPUs...besides, an extra 15-20w freed up from the RBG wouldn't actually hurt either.



Once it is all done, I can hardly wait to play Metro: Exodus - while this is not a pure gamer build and has some serious productivity functions ahead, dual 2080 TIs should make games like Metro: Ex very nice looking and performing w/ RTX, given what I have seen so far by 'Igor's lab' (visual comp at 5min+ below) and others, such as 'Hardware Unboxed'.



That sucks ...and a bit weird as the 4K benchmarks w/ everything on max seem to bring even a single 2080 Ti down to lower overall frame rates and 1% FT readings -- are there at least some plans by Epic games to introduce a SLI profile for Metro: Exodus later ?
rgb wave effect still works with the 380 galax bios. Only thing it disables are outputs, it messes up fan behaviour and leds on them if you had those.
You really think rgb takes 20w? wish I had a watometer laying around.

To bad metro is a mess right now, mouse aim is floaty and horrible, there is a grey shade over the screen where I can't see **** in the dark. Waiting for some patches really.

Latest iteration of the 4A engine was used, same as metro 2033 and last light, which all supported sli. Who knows what game nvidia is playing? Anthem also seemed to have sli support in the first alphas as the first demos ran on 2 1080tis, now poof game is golden and sli support is gone..
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post #6372 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 08:33 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by bigbangSG View Post
Hi any one 2080ti having problem? My Com shutdown suddenly when I was playing games . And I was unable to on it back until I off and on back the power. Really nid some help here.
I have the same thing, i have Gigabyte Gaming OC and i think that their software is the problem. i have been experiencing loosing power and then i need to unplug and plug again.
Delete all Gigabyte software if you have any including RGB Fusion.

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post #6373 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 09:51 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Coldmud View Post
rgb wave effect still works with the 380 galax bios. Only thing it disables are outputs, it messes up fan behaviour and leds on them if you had those.
You really think rgb takes 20w? wish I had a watometer laying around.

To bad metro is a mess right now, mouse aim is floaty and horrible, there is a grey shade over the screen where I can't see **** in the dark. Waiting for some patches really.

Latest iteration of the 4A engine was used, same as metro 2033 and last light, which all supported sli. Who knows what game nvidia is playing? Anthem also seemed to have sli support in the first alphas as the first demos ran on 2 1080tis, now poof game is golden and sli support is gone..
The RGB LEDs on my EVGA Hydro Copper block use <1 watt. Turning them off basically doesn't change idle power consumption at all.

I've been playing Metro the past 2 days and haven't had any issues at all. Sure the gameplay is buggy at times, but that's par for the course with the Metro games unfortunately. Mouse feels like crap, but what else can you expect from vsync and 40-60 fps?

Why Metro Exodus doesn't support SLI is a mystery. Also a mystery why BF5 doesn't have official SLI support yet either. Regardless, Nvidia's lack of SLI support is just a big "screw you" to the people on previous gen SLI setups. Ray tracing is DX12 only, and DX12 "SLI" support is entirely up to the developer.

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post #6374 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 10:09 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Coldmud View Post
rgb wave effect still works with the 380 galax bios. Only thing it disables are outputs, it messes up fan behaviour and leds on them if you had those.
You really think rgb takes 20w? wish I had a watometer laying around.

To bad metro is a mess right now, mouse aim is floaty and horrible, there is a grey shade over the screen where I can't see **** in the dark. Waiting for some patches really.

Latest iteration of the 4A engine was used, same as metro 2033 and last light, which all supported sli. Who knows what game nvidia is playing? Anthem also seemed to have sli support in the first alphas as the first demos ran on 2 1080tis, now poof game is golden and sli support is gone..

...re. RGB, it's not that important. I can either disconnect the wires (which I can actually see), or put a VRM helper fan in front of most of it even if they do not need it, or cover it with self-adhesive tape...typically, LED's use about 3 watt per foot on a strip, so the wattage is not the issue - fitting in with the rest of the build rather than looking like a carnival on steroids is...

re. Bios, what is strange is that both my Aorus 2080 TIs are within 2 (!) sequential numbers on the serial number - yet one has a slightly different Bios version # (though same release day) than the other according to GPUz . Yet both cards clock within 20-30 MHz of each other on GPU (#1 > #2) while on VRAM, GPU#2 is a bit faster than GPU#1...all the same, before I flash the Galax 380w Bios, I'll flash the stock Aorus Bios from GPU #1 onto GPU #2 and see what is what

I haven't had much time to really delve into gaming yet with this RTX SLI or any other setup for that matter for some time, but 'back in the day', I used to use various NVidia Inspector 'master SLI profiles' on a trial and error basis even for quad-SLI (often, the 3D Mark SLI profiles worked reasonably well on games they were not designed for & sometimes I got lucky). With RTX being still very new for developers, it may not be that easy this time around (yet), but I'm encouraged that the 'Unreal' game engine just added ray tracing. Hope springs eternal...

BTW, what is a good gaming mouse for $100 or less ? We just use the typical Microsoft and Logitech wired USB mice en masse in the office and the home setup.

Last edited by J7SC; 02-16-2019 at 10:19 PM.
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post #6375 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 01:25 AM
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Hello everybody, need some help with temps. I have an Asus Dual OC card with an EK Vector waterblock hooked up to a single loop (two 280mm and one 120 mm rads, Noctua fans). CPU is a 9700k oc'd to 5 GHz. I've been running the gpu at 2.040 GHz (Galax bios, max power limit, +120 on core and +500 on mem).

With AC Odyssey, I was getting gpu temps in the high 40's (46-49 C), with water temps at about 36C (a 10 to 13 delta) (room temp at about 23C). With Anthem (which has really maxed out the GPU both in usage and power consumption), however, gpu temps went as high as 59 C, with water temp reaching 40 C (a delta of up to 19C).

I understand that by running a fairly silent fan profile, my water temps will settle at a relatively high point (34-38C), but still, is a delta of 15 to 19C between GPU (operating at its very limit of 380W) and water normal? Or should I reapply thermal paste and reset the waterblock?
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post #6376 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 02:11 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Gustavoh View Post
Hello everybody, need some help with temps. I have an Asus Dual OC card with an EK Vector waterblock hooked up to a single loop (two 280mm and one 120 mm rads, Noctua fans). CPU is a 9700k oc'd to 5 GHz. I've been running the gpu at 2.040 GHz (Galax bios, max power limit, +120 on core and +500 on mem).

With AC Odyssey, I was getting gpu temps in the high 40's (46-49 C), with water temps at about 36C (a 10 to 13 delta) (room temp at about 23C). With Anthem (which has really maxed out the GPU both in usage and power consumption), however, gpu temps went as high as 59 C, with water temp reaching 40 C (a delta of up to 19C).

I understand that by running a fairly silent fan profile, my water temps will settle at a relatively high point (34-38C), but still, is a delta of 15 to 19C between GPU (operating at its very limit of 380W) and water normal? Or should I reapply thermal paste and reset the waterblock?
Based on your water temps, your GPU temps are not out of the ordinary. Running the card at 380W is obviously going to result in higher temps as well. You can always try to reapply the thermal paste and reseat the waterblock, making sure everything is where it needs to be. However, I wouldn't expect a miracle. What brand and thickness are your rads? It's all about how much heat they can dissipate in aggregate. At 36C in water temps, your rad cooling capacity is your bottleneck.

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post #6377 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 02:33 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by gridironcpj View Post
Based on your water temps, your GPU temps are not out of the ordinary. Running the card at 380W is obviously going to result in higher temps as well. You can always try to reapply the thermal paste and reseat the waterblock, making sure everything is where it needs to be. However, I wouldn't expect a miracle. What brand and thickness are your rads? It's all about how much heat they can dissipate in aggregate. At 36C in water temps, your rad cooling capacity is your bottleneck.
Thanks for the feedback. All my rads are EK Coolstreams: one 280 and one 120mm are SE (slim) and the other 280mm is a CE (45mm thick, iirc). I have the 280 CE at the front, pulling air in, the 280 SE at the top pushing air out, and the 120 SE at the back, pushing air out (case is an NZXT h700i). In this config, both slim rads at the top and back are exhausting prewarmed air from the thicker rad at the front. Maybe I should switch the orientation of the fans on the top or back rad (pulling cooler air from the outside as well, with more positive pressure inside the case)? Or make all three rads push air out (that would give me a lot of negative pressure inside the case, which would probably result in more dust being pulled in)?
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post #6378 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 03:46 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Gustavoh View Post
Thanks for the feedback. All my rads are EK Coolstreams: one 280 and one 120mm are SE (slim) and the other 280mm is a CE (45mm thick, iirc). I have the 280 CE at the front, pulling air in, the 280 SE at the top pushing air out, and the 120 SE at the back, pushing air out (case is an NZXT h700i). In this config, both slim rads at the top and back are exhausting prewarmed air from the thicker rad at the front. Maybe I should switch the orientation of the fans on the top or back rad (pulling cooler air from the outside as well, with more positive pressure inside the case)? Or make all three rads push air out (that would give me a lot of negative pressure inside the case, which would probably result in more dust being pulled in)?
I think your fan configuration is fine. How are your CPU temps? As I said before though, the water temps indicate that radiator cooling capacity could be your bottleneck. In that case, you could increase the fan speed to improve this. Also, if your pump is running at a low RPM, you could increase that to help a little. The 2080 Ti is a harder card to cool than any of the GP102 cards from last gen, especially when pushing 380W.

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post #6379 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 05:34 AM
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Did anyone succeed to flash a non-a chip, reference design 2080 ti, to a bios with a higher limit?
I got a poor Windforce (non oc) 2080 Ti with 109% that clocks pretty good in itself, but clearly limited with its bios.

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post #6380 of 7635 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 07:22 AM
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I got a RTX 2080 TI XC Ultra.

Wich bioos is the best for max overclocking.

I see so many 380W bios,

is it GALAX RTX 2080 Ti OC Reference PCB (2x8-Pin) 300W x 126% Power Target BIOS (380W) ?
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