Originally Posted by Renegade5399
At 70°C you have almost no headroom. You have to understand how the thermal throttling works on these cards. Those of us that have done the shunt mod try and get temps BELOW 45°C at 100% load. We have to resort to things like drawing in cold winter air or installing a ridiculous amount of radiators. I have (2) 360mm and (1) 240mm right now and am considering another 240mm since I have 2 GPUs and a coal fired CPU in the loop. Every 10° beginning at (I think) 30°C causes a reduction of clocks because of how Boost 3.0 and it's associated "features" work. I would NOT do the shunt mod on those Turbo model cards with the stock cooler. The VRM and GPU and in turn, the whole back of the card will get hot. Like, really hot.
My suggestion is to work with what you have for now and save up for some type of water cooling for the cards. Then you can do the shunt mod, as long as you fully understand the risks (card damage, void warranty).
The power limit in the stock BIOS does not matter once the shunts are installed. Changing the value of them causes the measured voltage reported back to the controller to be higher. This fools the controller into thinking there is less power usage than what is actually being drawn. You hit the limit of the silicon before you hit the "new" power limit.
The nice thing about forums like this are access to knowledge of how to perform such mods. The downside is misunderstanding/misinformation. The shunts are NOT 5 Ohm. The add-on resistors for the shunts are NOT 8 Ohm. The total replacement resistor for the shunts are NOT 3 Ohm. All values are in milliohm. The stock shunts are 5 mOhm (milliohm). You add on an 8 mOhm resistor to get the target goal of ~3mOhm. If you find yourself in wonder as to how this works and don't understand how resistors work in parallel, please consider going out and researching that, getting a basic understanding, then consider if modding like this is for you. Also, if you've never done more than just tin wires with a soldering iron and/or have a 300W broad tip soldering iron, don't try this mod. Get a proper tip for SMD work (this is personal preference, I use an SMD "broad" tip which is actually nice and tiny), a proper 150-200W or lower if you like iron, and practice on a dead board with similar SMDs on it. One of those magnifying lights really really helps too. I'm not saying don't try it or you don't have the skills/understanding to do it. I am saying go do the proper prep work first.
This is good advice. Luckily I have a fair bit of soldering experience, not with SMD however but I can get my hand in on some other stuff before attempting this mod. I have a Hako 888 iron with variable temp and multiple tips so im all good on that front.
I was just going to try the mod with silver trace pen first as shown in the RTX Titan thread. A good thick layer appears to work. However its certainly a much nicer solution if I solder 8mOhm resistors on top instead. Any particular type I need to buy? May as well get them in now.
On the cooling front, these blower cards are actually temporary replacements to my originals which were eVGA Black's with the dual fan open cooler, 2 slot. I should have both of them in by the end of the week.
However, as I have done it before, numerous times, im feeling like I might rebuild this system into a thermaltake W200 with a pair of Black Ice GTR 560mm rads, one loop on the cards, one on the GPU. From what I am learning about these cards it seems like I should wait until I have the cards under water to do the shunt mod as it heats up everything regardless of clocks?