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2080 Ti - Working Shunt Mod

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post #11 of 107 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 06:27 AM
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Nice to hear, but you could just have used the modded NVflash to flash the 380W KFA2/Galax Firmware to the FE Card. Getting stable 2160MHz with it and only reaching the power limit extreamly rare.
Saadly my card still doesnt get close to the Performance of my Titan V
Quote: Originally Posted by Asmodian View Post
I finally got a chance to test some other shunts on my FE 2080 Ti.

When using 5 mOhm resistors, as I did on my Titan X (Pascal), the 2080 Ti goes into emergency mode with a lot of loads (stuck at 300 MHz). My first try adding a shunt above 5 mOhms, 8 mOhms, did not trigger the cards safety mode.

This is not bad, 1/5 + 1/8 = 1/3.077, for a final power limit of 1.625 * 260 = 422.5 watts (520W at 123%).




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post #12 of 107 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by matthiaserlewei View Post
Nice to hear, but you could just have used the modded NVflash to flash the 380W KFA2/Galax Firmware to the FE Card.
I would probably have done that if the modded NVFlash was available when I first took a soldering iron to it. I do have the stock bios with an even higher power limit now though, and I can hit it. Though the difference in performance between 380W and 450W is probably negligible. I don't expect too many people to do this mod but it might be helpful for those using more extreme cooling.

I have seen it say 271W in hwinfo, which should be about 440W. With the system idle, it pulls 205W (GPU probably pulling 30W) and with madVR playing it pulls 620W. madVR uses very little CPU with these settings so I think all the change in power is the GPU, for ~445W total GPU power draw. With madVR at these settings I do see the power limit trigger sometimes when at 100% but not when at 123%.


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post #13 of 107 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by pewpewlazer View Post
You suck it up and eat the cost? Soldering resistors onto your video card to bypass the manufacturers over current protection kind-of sort-of absolute-definitely voids your warranty, and you need to accept that fact when you pick up the soldering iron.
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post #14 of 107 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 12:48 PM
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I have a Palit 2080 Ti Dual and am looking into this option. I've soldered small components before so precisionwise I should be good but just to be safe I thought I'd ask about getting the right kind of soldering iron (one that lends itself well to this kind of work, the right size and heat) and any other equipment to get this done right. Also, I assume I will be needing 2x 8 milli-Ohm resistors for this so if there are certain ones that are better than others for this I'll go for them to make sure this works properly. Do I use 60/40 or leadfree or some other option for soldering it?

Oh, and could you just as a reference show exactly where those resistors are on the PCB?

Just out of curiosity, will the raised power limit reduce the lifetime of the card in any way?

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Last edited by Lashmush; 01-11-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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post #15 of 107 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 01:32 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.
With clean soldering it's not hard to clean up a mess done previously from adding a resistor on top. Sure for many people soldering well and clean is a difficult task and something they do not care about one bit, hence those jobs have been moved to Asia.
What's the difference between factory hand soldered and home hand soldered? None. Even with reflow PCB as these GPUs are you can hand solder it clean or use a hand held hot air station and soldering paste, it will look exactly as reflow. Sure if you're lazy and add a ton off solder and make a huge ugly blob while all other PCB solder points are nice and clean, yeah it's obvious then that someone has been messing with stuff.
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post #16 of 107 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 02:30 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.
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post #17 of 107 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 10:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Lashmush View Post
I have a Palit 2080 Ti Dual and am looking into this option. I've soldered small components before so precisionwise I should be good but just to be safe I thought I'd ask about getting the right kind of soldering iron (one that lends itself well to this kind of work, the right size and heat) and any other equipment to get this done right. Also, I assume I will be needing 2x 8 milli-Ohm resistors for this so if there are certain ones that are better than others for this I'll go for them to make sure this works properly. Do I use 60/40 or leadfree or some other option for soldering it?

Oh, and could you just as a reference show exactly where those resistors are on the PCB?

Just out of curiosity, will the raised power limit reduce the lifetime of the card in any way?
I used a very cheap soldering iron with a small flat tip and the mystery solder it came with. It needs to get hot enough to melt the solder under the top resistor, which is pretty hot. It has a knob to adjust temps but no reference to know what it is set to, I had to turn it up almost all the way. I should have taken it to work, I probably would have done a much cleaner soldering job.

These are actually pretty big surface mount resistors so it isn't too small of a job. I did link the resistors I used in the original post, they match the shunts used on the card originally too (except being the 8 mOhm version).
Edit: oops, no I didn't.
I did a few posts down but they are Panasonic ERJ-M1WSF8M0U current sense resistors.
More details on how I did the soldering in my Titan X (Pascal) Shunt Mod thread.

The power limit will only reduce the life of the card if you also over-volt it and/or run it really hot. I edit the voltage curve to keep it at or below 1025mV and water cool it so I don't expect unlimited power to lower the life. However, we don't have any historical data, of course.

I have highlighted the resistors:


Last edited by Asmodian; 01-14-2019 at 11:20 PM.
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post #18 of 107 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 06:05 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by littledonny View Post
Trash post
Hi,
Hardly just inquiring for any tricks looks like I found a troll instead

Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
With clean soldering it's not hard to clean up a mess done previously from adding a resistor on top. Sure for many people soldering well and clean is a difficult task and something they do not care about one bit, hence those jobs have been moved to Asia.
What's the difference between factory hand soldered and home hand soldered? None. Even with reflow PCB as these GPUs are you can hand solder it clean or use a hand held hot air station and soldering paste, it will look exactly as reflow. Sure if you're lazy and add a ton off solder and make a huge ugly blob while all other PCB solder points are nice and clean, yeah it's obvious then that someone has been messing with stuff.
Hi,
Thanks for the info soldering paste interesting can you link to this item

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post #19 of 107 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 01:30 PM
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Overvolting the RTX cards requires hardware modification of some sort though, right? I was under the impression that for instance the slider in Afterburner didn't actually do anything due to these cards having some sort of limitation put in place.

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post #20 of 107 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 02:00 PM
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Oh yeah, can I use nailpolish as a safetyprecaution for the stuff around the resistor in the first picture? It seems to have quite a few other bits of solder that probably shouldn't be touched around it and I don't want any to leak onto them, you know?

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