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post #41 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 08:25 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Asmodian View Post
Nice job! Great photos too.

It is very interesting that even an 8MO resistor on top of RS16 caused it to go into safe mode, I would not have expected that. Nvidia must have tighter restrictions on the power draw from the PCIe bus.
Edit: Or maybe even with 8mOhm shunts added the total measured powder draw is really close to being below the lower limit, so adding the third shunt pushes it below the limit?
Yes, I was surprised as well. I never would have expected that.

Just for giggles, I think I am going to try putting it back on RS16 to see what happens. I later discovered that after the mod I needed to reinstall the GeFarts drivers and the shunt on the back (RS19) may have been grounding on the back plate. I put a small square of tape on the inside of the back plate to insulate that. If I put it back on and it works correctly I will come back and update this thread.

The gain from this mod is very small and the real firmware defect is the crippling limit of 1.093V. My max overclock is still the same 2220-2235 with this mickey mouse amount of voltage, but the mod did eliminate the performance limit flag for power limit, so that is really good.


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post #42 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 08:35 PM
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It's a shame that the unlimited VBIOSes are only available to limited amount of people and rest of us regulars have to resort to hardware mods.
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post #43 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 11:16 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
It's a shame that the unlimited VBIOSes are only available to limited amount of people and rest of us regulars have to resort to hardware mods.
Very true... But simultaneously, I'm grateful there are people trying to figure out how to hardware mod past the 1.093 V limit since I'm stuck with my Non-A card so flashing the vBIOS is impossible for me. :c

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post #44 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 02:41 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by MrFox View Post
Yes, I was surprised as well. I never would have expected that.

Just for giggles, I think I am going to try putting it back on RS16 to see what happens. I later discovered that after the mod I needed to reinstall the GeFarts drivers and the shunt on the back (RS19) may have been grounding on the back plate. I put a small square of tape on the inside of the back plate to insulate that. If I put it back on and it works correctly I will come back and update this thread.

The gain from this mod is very small and the real firmware defect is the crippling limit of 1.093V. My max overclock is still the same 2220-2235 with this mickey mouse amount of voltage, but the mod did eliminate the performance limit flag for power limit, so that is really good.

https://youtu.be/iOJGp9IFea0
On my first fe I found the shunt on the back touched the backplate so took the dremel to it and formed a hollow above the shunt, that did the trick I also put tape on shunt.
Ek backplate is very tight, I haven’t shunted this one yet but will try the 7mo’s
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post #45 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 04:11 AM
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Hey Rob w. I use liquid electrical tape to insulate everything when I do shunt mod. It covers all the solder up and anything else that might be an issue. I just used LM as its very easy to apply and remove. The liquid electrical tape takes the risk away. And it is very easy to remove when dry. Peels right off and looks brand new underneath. I never use back plates so no experience with the tight fit there.
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post #46 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 08:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by MrFox View Post
The gain from this mod is very small and the real firmware defect is the crippling limit of 1.093V. My max overclock is still the same 2220-2235 with this mickey mouse amount of voltage, but the mod did eliminate the performance limit flag for power limit, so that is really good.
I agree, with a 380W+ BIOS I don't think this mod really adds much performance. It is cool to see the power limit flag go quite but it doesn't seem to help benchmarks.

Nvidia engineers have said it is voltage that kills GPUs, so be careful.

Quote: Originally Posted by DooRules View Post
I just used LM as its very easy to apply and remove.
Did you do a liquid metal mod on Turing? Turing seems much pickier on the minimum power used at each power level and will go into safe mode if any are too low, this means getting the right amount of liquid metal to get >0.005 mOhm but <0.01 mOhm. That seems crazy to me, but maybe not?

Once you have a soldering iron adding resistors is about the same as liquid metal in my experiance, neither is significantly easier or faster. The work and difficulties are different but both are pretty easy while also taking some delicate work.

Last edited by Asmodian; 01-28-2019 at 08:47 PM.
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post #47 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 03:46 AM
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Speaking of liquid metal, just wanted to ask since I'll be detaching the cooler for the modding, can I apply liquid metal too the GPU die? That is, is the cooler surface nickel or copper? Figured I may as well get as low temps as I can to push the card as much as possible.

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post #48 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 04:03 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Lashmush View Post
Speaking of liquid metal, just wanted to ask since I'll be detaching the cooler for the modding, can I apply liquid metal too the GPU die? That is, is the cooler surface nickel or copper? Figured I may as well get as low temps as I can to push the card as much as possible.
I use LM on both my gpu’s (Titan v and 2080ti) I’ve found it better than paste, I just make sure surrounding components are protected, (never had a problem with it)
For shunt mods ? I tried LM on the Titan but had for better results when I replaced it with 5mo resistors.
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post #49 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 05:54 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Rob w View Post
I use LM on both my gpu’s (Titan v and 2080ti) I’ve found it better than paste, I just make sure surrounding components are protected, (never had a problem with it)
For shunt mods ? I tried LM on the Titan but had for better results when I replaced it with 5mo resistors.
Alright, then I'll apply some to the die. Just waiting on my new PSU now and I'll do the soldering and have a beefed up GPU, hopefully. c:

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post #50 of 140 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 06:17 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Asmodian View Post
I agree, with a 380W+ BIOS I don't think this mod really adds much performance. It is cool to see the power limit flag go quite but it doesn't seem to help benchmarks.

Nvidia engineers have said it is voltage that kills GPUs, so be careful.



Did you do a liquid metal mod on Turing? Turing seems much pickier on the minimum power used at each power level and will go into safe mode if any are too low, this means getting the right amount of liquid metal to get >0.005 mOhm but <0.01 mOhm. That seems crazy to me, but maybe not?

Once you have a soldering iron adding resistors is about the same as liquid metal in my experiance, neither is significantly easier or faster. The work and difficulties are different but both are pretty easy while also taking some delicate work.
I did the shunt on my RTX Titan with LM, no issues and no safe mode. I did use a fair bit less than I had with my Titan Xp's though.
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