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2080 Ti - Working Shunt Mod

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post #1 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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2080 Ti - Working Shunt Mod

I finally got a chance to test some other shunts on my FE 2080 Ti.

When using 5 mOhm resistors, as I did on my Titan X (Pascal), the 2080 Ti goes into emergency mode with a lot of loads (stuck at 300 MHz). My first try adding a shunt above 5 mOhms, 8 mOhms, did not trigger the cards safety mode. I used Panasonic ERJ-M1WSF8M0U current sense resistors, which match the original resistors on the card.

This is not bad, 1/5 + 1/8 = 1/3.077, for a final power limit of 1.625 * 260 = 422.5 watts (520W at 123%).
Edit: My Kill A Watt's reported power draw tracks well with what hwinfo reports for power use (x1.625) so I believe my mod worked as expected and I can use hwinfo to get a fairly accurate value for the card's powder draw.




Sadly my card doesn't OC that well, 2115 MHz core and 8100 MHz memory, but no throttling is nice.
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Last edited by Asmodian; 01-15-2019 at 07:45 PM.
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post #2 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 06:25 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Asmodian View Post
I finally got a chance to test some other shunts on my FE 2080 Ti.

When using 5 mOhm resistors, as I did on my Titan X (Pascal), the 2080 Ti goes into emergency mode with a lot of loads (stuck at 300 MHz). My first try adding a shunt above 5 mOhms, 8 mOhms, did not trigger the cards safety mode.

This is not bad, 1/5 + 1/8 = 1/3.077, for a final power limit of 1.625 * 260 = 422.5 watts (520W at 123%).




Sadly my card doesn't OC that well, 2070 MHz core and 2000 MHz memory, but no throttling is nice.
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Nice work! My card is a PALIT 2080Ti DUAL with a Non-A GPU with 112% bios. What will a shunt mod give me in Powerlimit? And did you do it on a Referens design PCB?

Would a resistor like this be usable? I have alot over from my old days fiddeling with 780Ti Volt modding.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1500pcs-1-4...WDUf:rk:1:pf:0


Last edited by TobbbeSWE; 12-03-2018 at 06:29 AM.
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post #3 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by TobbbeSWE View Post
Nice work! My card is a PALIT 2080Ti DUAL with a Non-A GPU with 112% bios. What will a shunt mod give me in Powerlimit? And did you do it on a Referens design PCB?
Thanks

Yes, this is the reference PCB, it is a Founder Edition GPU. If you also use 8 mOhm resistors you would get 280 * 1.625 = 455W

Quote: Originally Posted by TobbbeSWE View Post
Would a resistor like this be usable? I have alot over from my old days fiddeling with 780Ti Volt modding.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1500pcs-1-4...WDUf:rk:1:pf:0
Those resistors would not work, they are 1 - 10 ohm and we need 0.008 ohm resistors. They would also be harder to solder on.
I used these from mouser: ERJ-M1WSF8M0U
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post #4 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 12:01 PM
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Does this really benefit you if not using sub ambient cooling?




I don't think the card hitting power limit will lose that much fps in real time scenario either.

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post #5 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 12:32 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Asmodian View Post
Thanks

Yes, this is the reference PCB, it is a Founder Edition GPU. If you also use 8 mOhm resistors you would get 280 * 1.625 = 455W



Those resistors would not work, they are 1 - 10 ohm and we need 0.008 ohm resistors. They would also be harder to solder on.
I used these from mouser: ERJ-M1WSF8M0U
Ok thanks!

How did this mod affect your max clock and Avg clocks overall?

Did you notice any negative things after the mod? Like abnormal amounts of power being pulled at the same clocks as before?
For that i guess you need something to measure before and after mod outside of the card because the "power" indicator in Precision X and GPUz will show the wrong value now i guess.
Or does it still work?

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post #6 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by TobbbeSWE View Post
How did this mod affect your max clock and Avg clocks overall?

Did you notice any negative things after the mod? Like abnormal amounts of power being pulled at the same clocks as before?
For that i guess you need something to measure before and after mod outside of the card because the "power" indicator in Precision X and GPUz will show the wrong value now i guess.
Or does it still work?
This mod did change my average clocks, now they stay very stable at whatever overclock max is set. In practice I see 2070 MHz dropping to 2055 MHz when temps get near the max. 42°C is my normal max temp in madVR, which uses the most power of anything I have tested, it can even hit my power limit of 520W.

The power numbers in GPUz are 61.5% of the real draw, so when I see it using 264W it means it is actually using 429W.

The main negative, which is very significant, is that the performance increase is very small but the increase in power use is massive. Probably +50% the power use for <10% performance with some workloads. It absolutely requires high end water cooling to even be considered. It is impressive how much power Nvidia can save without hurting performance very much. To be honest I normally leave the power limit on 100% now, 422W max is already a bit high. Letting it use 520W gains very little if anything, as far as I can measure. I have seen it hit the power limit even when set to 520W too, with madVR using crazy settings playing 1080p60 at 4K. It also triggered the thermal throttling flag when seeking even though the GPU was at 39°C, that indicates to me that some small part of the GPU got way too hot for comfort and it is probably better to say at or below ~400W unless on LN2 or something.

With the same workload and clocks power use is identical, GPUz reports 1/1.625 (61.5%) the power draw, but running the same workload at 1870 MHz v.s. 2070 MHz increases power/heat by way more than 10%.
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post #7 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 02:21 PM
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Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.

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post #8 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 02:23 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.

Desolder/solder sucker.

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post #9 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 09:12 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.
You suck it up and eat the cost? Soldering resistors onto your video card to bypass the manufacturers over current protection kind-of sort-of absolute-definitely voids your warranty, and you need to accept that fact when you pick up the soldering iron.

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post #10 of 117 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 11:09 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by pewpewlazer View Post
You suck it up and eat the cost? Soldering resistors onto your video card to bypass the manufacturers over current protection kind-of sort-of absolute-definitely voids your warranty, and you need to accept that fact when you pick up the soldering iron.
Or you can just do a good job soldering then de-solder it later. I've never done it for warranty purposes but I have added things that I intended on removing so instead of letting it really run in by getting the components hot I'd just melt the solder with the gun with the components touching. It's not as strong this way but it can easily be removed if you heat it up upside down. Even if you didn't cold-ball it you could probably make your solder run in with the existing solder without being noticed.

I'd really like to do this to my 1080 but it's a PITA to tear it down...the cooler gets wedged in a weird way. After my custom BIOS on the 1080 I kinda forgot all about TDP throttling. It's really annoying in games because you can see the clock fluctuate with the frame times.

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