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post #331 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 06:10 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Kalm_Traveler View Post
IMO if you can solder or you have a friend who can solder, the best (safest, most reliable, and most accurate) is to stack or swap the shunt resistors. stacking another 5MO (for 2.5MO effective) will trip safe mode, but I swapped the 5 with a 3 and that works just fine, giving ~ 430w TDP (I haven't hit a power limit yet and both draw about 430w under load).


side note, holy crap @Zurv with the swoop in on Port Royal! I'm curious how you got such a high score with the reported clocks! Ran a test run with today's new driver myself but it was only ~ 17500 ish. Well done good sir!
I never got around to shunt mod.. My magic (total guess) is the Fuji pads. (afterburner +150 core, +1500 mem. In the end the core bounced a little above and a little below 2ghz)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (sizes .5, 1.0, and 1.5)

you need a lot of them and they are $$$$. That is one of the reason i didn't want to shunt it, i didn't want to mess up the pads
I didn't touch any extra OC on the mem, cpu, etc.. as that doesn't seem to impact the ray tracing that much.


There is no point to the DLSS stuff, right? they aren't doing a hall of frame for that.
I also wonder DLSS they are doing. Base level DLSS for 4k is rendered at 1440p with AI magic pushing it to 4k. DLSS x2 is native for 4k with AI magic AA. It did look pretty good and was MUCH faster.

the Titan RTX was much faster than my 2080 ti DLSS. (the 2080ti are waterblocked, shunt mod'd and bios flashed), but that makes sense. There are more tensor cores on the RTX.

Last edited by Zurv; 02-04-2019 at 06:18 PM.
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post #332 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 07:56 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Zurv View Post
I never got around to shunt mod.. My magic (total guess) is the Fuji pads. (afterburner +150 core, +1500 mem. In the end the core bounced a little above and a little below 2ghz)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (sizes .5, 1.0, and 1.5)

you need a lot of them and they are $$$$. That is one of the reason i didn't want to shunt it, i didn't want to mess up the pads
I didn't touch any extra OC on the mem, cpu, etc.. as that doesn't seem to impact the ray tracing that much.


There is no point to the DLSS stuff, right? they aren't doing a hall of frame for that.
I also wonder DLSS they are doing. Base level DLSS for 4k is rendered at 1440p with AI magic pushing it to 4k. DLSS x2 is native for 4k with AI magic AA. It did look pretty good and was MUCH faster.

the Titan RTX was much faster than my 2080 ti DLSS. (the 2080ti are waterblocked, shunt mod'd and bios flashed), but that makes sense. There are more tensor cores on the RTX.
Ah yes I think the new driver changed performance for Port Royal - I just ran a quick test +171 core +1272 mem and also got a much higher score. Now I will have to wait for another freezing night to benchmark outdoors again


Side note about my 3MO shunt resistors:

Just did some math based on resistance and reported power use + reported TDP.

replacing 5MO (100% expected resistance) with 3MO (60% expected resistance) gives new max TDP of ~ 467 watts (from max 319.2w of stock + 114% PL in Afterburner).

running this test in my room ~ 22c ambient, cards hit 50c so they lost some clocks compared to keeping under 40c. Also, GPUZ reported 94.5% TDP and max 264.6 watts which was actually 441.882 watts being pulled per card.

This means basically swapping from 5MO to 3MO you gain 46% increase to power draw capacity before hitting the BIOS power limit. Glad to have more accurate numbers finally.

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post #333 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 09:38 AM
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i did shunt mod my new 2080ti... not getting power limit, but with my new graphics card i cant pass 2100mhz, my older 2080ti it was hitting 2130 with AC ON...

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post #334 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 07:36 PM
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i need some help, low voltage, no power limit, but if i try to go higher then 2085 it crashes...
i did the shunt mod, can it be diffent GPU power that is causing this limit?
can it be mounting pressure? card bending? im using the original pad thicker in the botton of the graphics card
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post #335 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 08:14 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Hanks552 View Post
i need some help, low voltage, no power limit, but if i try to go higher then 2085 it crashes...
i did the shunt mod, can it be diffent GPU power that is causing this limit?
can it be mounting pressure? card bending? im using the original pad thicker in the botton of the graphics card
I'm not sure about the 2080 Ti since I only have Titans, but could you clarify two things?

when you say "i did the shunt mod" which one do you mean? If you did one of the conductive pen or LM mods it's very possible that you simply applied too much so the card is going into safe mode. If you use 3MO resistors to replace the stock 5MO this will not be an issue, plus you'll have the benefit of identical power draw on both cards.

secondly, what do you mean by 'using the original pad thicker in the botto(m) of the graphics card' ? You have them on water blocks but you didn't use the thermal pads included with your water blocks?

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post #336 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 08:36 PM
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i did the conductive pen, im able to get more then 2000mhz so i dont think is triggering safe mode

and i did use the thermal pad included on the waterblock because it wasn't enough...

more info, when i turn off SLI i can reach 2115 even 2130 but is not stable, but still no power limit and low voltage
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post #337 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 09:38 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Hanks552 View Post
i did the conductive pen, im able to get more then 2000mhz so i dont think is triggering safe mode

and i did use the thermal pad included on the waterblock because it wasn't enough...

more info, when i turn off SLI i can reach 2115 even 2130 but is not stable, but still no power limit and low voltage
My guess is what I described earlier - since trying to short the shunts like that isn't measurable or calculable I bet the cards are not running close enough to the same so it's having instability issues with SLI enabled.

Mod the cards the proper way and I bet you wouldn't have that issue

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post #338 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 12:22 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Kalm_Traveler View Post
My guess is what I described earlier - since trying to short the shunts like that isn't measurable or calculable I bet the cards are not running close enough to the same so it's having instability issues with SLI enabled.

Mod the cards the proper way and I bet you wouldn't have that issue
yeah, that sux, i dont want to do soldering... but its ok
i did the curve manually and it seems to be working
locked 1093 and got 2175 not stable ( low temp i was able to run the benchmark) or 2160 stable

29 Time Spy Extreme graphics score with 15437
21 Port Royal with 18228

and congrats Kalm on top 10 Time Spy and Port Royal

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post #339 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 04:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Zurv View Post
get a any 2080 ti, put a block on it and put the bios with the high power limits.
haha thank you for the answer ^^

can you please explain me little more to understand ? ^^

i just like we can unlock the voltage on the Titan rtx... by soldering do you have some infiormation on that ? it with good oc result ? and place where we can see this mod ? it is safe (after very good soldering of course)

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post #340 of 434 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 05:02 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Fraizer View Post
haha thank you for the answer ^^

can you please explain me little more to understand ? ^^

i just like we can unlock the voltage on the Titan rtx... by soldering do you have some infiormation on that ? it with good oc result ? and place where we can see this mod ? it is safe (after very good soldering of course)

Zurv was joking - he's saying the 2080 Ti is easier to mod because you can flash other version BIOS on it.

With the Titan RTX the only way is with hardware mods (power input shunt resistor swap or short).

Soldering is easy as long as you know how to use a soldering iron and have steady hands. I don't consider myself great at soldering but have no issue swapping these resistors - they're relatively large and not too awful to work with.

If you watch any YouTube video or guide about Nvidia shunt resistor mods they're all the same - there is a 5MO (mili-ohm) resistor connected inline with each PCI-E 6 or 8 pin power connector. Generally they are both on the front of the card, but on these RTX cards one is on the back.

In the past, it was just easier to 'stack' another 5MO resistor on top of the existing ones for 200% tdp, but Nvidia's voltage detection system is more sensitive with Turing (I did the stacking method on my Titan V and Titan Xp cards so this is new with Turing) so the best we know works is swapping the 5MO with a 3MO. Apparently 2.5MO (what you get by stacking 2 5MO together) is too low of resistance and trips the card into safe mode.

You can see this mod all over the internet, as mentioned. It is only as safe as how well you cool the card - remember you're reducing the amount of voltage the card thinks it is pulling, so it will run hotter due to actually having higher voltage coming in than it realizes. I would not even consider doing this on an air-cooled card unless it had an amazing cooler and could still stay below say 80 C max.

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