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post #431 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:10 PM
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@Kalm_Traveler

do you think is possible to run for me an prim95 26.6 non avx with the setting i posted ?i have strange temp at 1.315v...

will be so great
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post #432 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:52 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Fraizer View Post
@Kalm_Traveler

do you think is possible to run for me an prim95 26.6 non avx with the setting i posted ?i have strange temp at 1.315v...

will be so great
I'm not sure, never ran Prime95 on mine. If it passes a few Cinebench runs, I go through about 1 hour of 3dMark benchmark runs. If those are fine I try it for gaming.

Haven't had any freezes or crashes, so for me that is stable - but I have not tried 5.3ghz or 1.315v. With the CPU stock, I was doing 5.2ghz @ 1.325v but it was reaching 88c during games. Now the highest temp I have seen in games is 69c (after delid + liquid metal + direct die). I will try 5.3 ghz this weekend.

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post #433 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 06:14 AM
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is because is something strange happen with prime95 26.6

you have the official link here : ftp://mersenne.org/gimps/p64v266.zip is from : https://www.mersenneforum.org/showthread.php?t=15504

you just need to put the settings on the screenshot i posted to Hulk, and before run the stresstest you open Core Temp 1.13 you can found here https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

what is important is to have your voltage or 1.315v with cpu at 5.1. but even at 1.325v 5.2ghz. (1.315v 5.1 is just to have an accurate temperature log because is the voltage who will play on that)

of what i know is the best test of stability but i had like crazy temperature since few weeks when before i had 10°c then i am afrai i did something wrong to the cpu who is delid direct die or my motherboard is defect... i hope is the motherboard.. :/

i know lol is not funy to do that but is to try to understand iw when we delied and direct dire on this cpu it not make an problem with time because at the beging i had very good temp and did nothing and rise more of 10°C more. (i am used to directdie all my cpu was like that)

any way if you can help on that it will super great if not realy dont worry i understand
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post #434 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 06:33 PM
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problem solved it was my waterblock who was defect

Last edited by Fraizer; 03-16-2019 at 03:50 AM.
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post #435 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 05:46 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CallsignVega View Post
So this is the stuff (pen):

https://system.na3.netsuite.com/core...1ddd7&_xt=.pdf

I scraped the top surface of the ends of the 5MO shunts (to remove and flux/contamination). Then I cleaned the shunts with alcohol to make sure the surface was nice and clean so the compound could stick well. I covered the entire surface of the 5MO shunts with about .5mm of the circuit writer. Pen is very easy to use, just push the head in and squeeze pen body. I put on just enough before it started to get too liquid/thick to want to spill off the shunt.

This stuff is rated at < 0.020 ohm/sq/mil, so if you lay it on thick it works well. My RTX Titan is now pulling 370-380 watts.
This looks good, real good. So Ive just ordered a silver trace pen to do this to my two RTX 2080Ti Non-A's.

Sustained 2Ghz boost here I come.

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post #436 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 04:11 PM
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Should finally have a functional setup soon to use this Titan to its full capability :O

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post #437 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 10:11 PM
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i replace my 2 resistors like you 5mo to 3mo. 3mo in front of the card and the other 3mo to the back of the card. the panasonic resistor etc..

then i try to make an bench and to oc...

but except i see now an wrong Power moving arround 80-90% (before 114%) i am not able to oc more the card.

i put the voltage to max. the clock i add +150, the memory +750...

is like before the mod for me when i oc more of +150 clock the computer freez under heaven bench

i did something wrong ?

it was realy a mess to solder those 2 small resistor of 3Mo... hope i dont heat them to much with iron at 380°c....
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post #438 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 12:38 AM
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Who would be down to try to flash a 2000w 2080ti XOC bios on the Titan? Correct me if I am mistaken, I've seen only one attempt and that seemed to be with an unmodified (and potentially older) version of nvflash that gave an error message. Is it 1000% confirmed you cant cross flash?
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post #439 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 08:10 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Fraizer View Post
@Kalm_Traveler

i replace my 2 resistors like you 5mo to 3mo. 3mo in front of the card and the other 3mo to the back of the card. the panasonic resistor etc..

then i try to make an bench and to oc...

but except i see now an wrong Power moving arround 80-90% (before 114%) i am not able to oc more the card.

i put the voltage to max. the clock i add +150, the memory +750...

is like before the mod for me when i oc more of +150 clock the computer freez under heaven bench

i did something wrong ?

it was realy a mess to solder those 2 small resistor of 3Mo... hope i dont heat them to much with iron at 380°c....
Can you share pics of the card + screen shot of MSI Afterburner? I don't understand exactly what you're saying, I'm sorry

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post #440 of 451 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 08:15 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by lkkane00 View Post
Who would be down to try to flash a 2000w 2080ti XOC bios on the Titan? Correct me if I am mistaken, I've seen only one attempt and that seemed to be with an unmodified (and potentially older) version of nvflash that gave an error message. Is it 1000% confirmed you cant cross flash?
it won't flash with NVFlash because the the board and product ID's don't match. You can find some hacked versions of NVFlash that will let you bypass one of them mismatching but not the other (I forget which one, board ID I think).

Since the Titan RTX has a different product ID altogether from a 2080 Ti NVFlash will never allow you to flash a 2080 Ti BIOS to it. I had an engineering version of NVFlash last year when trying to flash a Quadro GV100 BIOS to my Titan V's and even that wouldn't let me do it despite them being the exact same everything.

The only thing you could try is using a hardware SPI chip flasher to directly flash the BIOS chip. I actually bought one and tried it on my Titan V's but I must have been doing something wrong because even reading the BIOS that way the file I got out of it was slightly messed up compared to pulling the BIOS with NVFlash or GPUZ, and likewise trying to flash it resulted in a non-functional card (Windows was still recognizing it as a Titan V but it wouldn't work).

Eventually I was able to NVFlash the Titan V BIOS back on and it was fine after that.

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