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post #2661 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 05:08 PM
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Is there anyway to change the LED color without using oc guru? For example, I can set it to red, uninstall the program, and restart the computer, and the red color stays, but as soon as I shutdown it resets to white.

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post #2662 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armxnian View Post

Is there anyway to change the LED color without using oc guru? For example, I can set it to red, uninstall the program, and restart the computer, and the red color stays, but as soon as I shutdown it resets to white.

Just a few posts ago wink.gif

https://www.overclock.net/t/1544574/gigabyte-gtx-9xx-g1-gaming-h2o-air-bios-tweaking/2650#post_24669386

but no.. frown.gif

GIGABYTE GTX 9xx G1 GAMING BIOS Tweaking
  ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿̿'̿'\̵͇̿̿\з=༼ຈل͜ຈ༽=ε/̵͇̿̿/'̿'̿ ̿ ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿  
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Xeon E5-1680 V2 (IVY-E) Inside


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post #2663 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some unboxing pics of the EK goodies the UPS man brought me...
Warning: GPU Lingerie (Click to show)






GIGABYTE GTX 9xx G1 GAMING BIOS Tweaking
  ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿̿'̿'\̵͇̿̿\з=༼ຈل͜ຈ༽=ε/̵͇̿̿/'̿'̿ ̿ ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿  
░▒▓│ FORKAY‼ «  » WΘΘT ‼ │▓▒░
Xeon E5-1680 V2 (IVY-E) Inside


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post #2664 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 05:22 PM
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Well at least you won't have to worry about the LED with waterblocks jealoussmiley.gif

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post #2665 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a basic picture walk-through of installing an EK water block on a Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1.

Grab some popcorn and enjoy!
jerry.gif

The instructions that come with the blocks are good so this is a supplemental picture reference.
How to install an EK water block (Click to show)

Last moments of being an AIR cooled GPU


Goodbye windforce


You're too darn loud anyway


Remove ALL screws accessible from the backplate of the GPU


Pull the cooler off the PCB gently. Don't pull too much, there's 3 plugs to disconnect. Bottom right corner of this pic is the one you remove first. It is hard to see.


Disconnecting the single plug allows you to flip the cooler over while the other 2 wires are still connected


The plug on the right comes out easily. The one on the left has a death grip (locking plug) but if you gently pull up you can easily pull the plug right off. Yes it can be re-installed and it will work just fine. wink.gif


This is the only way I could remove this plug. But you can see it will easily slide right back on if ever needed later.


Now time to remove the backplate. Looking now at the top of the GPU, remove all 4 remaining screws that are now accessible after removing the cooler


I have to say, this backplate feels thinner than the 980.. It feels light and flimsy..


Time to clean up. No shortcuts here. It is a pain in the butt however you need things nice and clean biggrin.gif


EK Gives you some paste and I guess it is supposedly pretty good but I use TX4


Time to install the heat transfer pads for the VRMs, memory modules and mosfets


All prepped, making sure ALL edges of everything was completely covered with the transfer pad

EDIT: I had used some LEFT OVER thermals pads to cover the chokes (the long strip to the LEFT of the VRM). Although it didn't cause me any problems it also didn't provide me with any benefit. Technically the pads are also .5mm too big so please excuse my "creative thinking" there and do not apply that "extra" pad.


And ready to install the block

EDIT: I had used some LEFT OVER thermals pads to cover the chokes (the long strip to the LEFT of the VRM). Although it didn't cause me any problems it also didn't provide me with any benefit. Technically the pads are also .5mm too big so please excuse my "creative thinking" there and do not apply that "extra" pad.


I now take the block and slightly "season" it with TX4 so that it will make a better bond with the GPU since there are grooves in the block.


Here it is, all done!


Now to install the back plate


More heat transfer pads are needed because the backplate is actually a passive cooler and not thin and flimsy like the stock backplate.


In back of the GPU as well to pull heat away


Installed! By the way, I should have read the instructions for the backplate FIRST because I ended up having to take out some of the screws I had just put in for the backplate to install but it was no big deal. Just wanted to point this out for others to read both instructions at the same time and you'll see what I mean wink.gif


Looking hot!


That's one fine slim body right there wink.gif


How she'll look installed in the case (the same orientation)

I hope you enjoyed the tour!

santa.gif

GIGABYTE GTX 9xx G1 GAMING BIOS Tweaking
  ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿̿'̿'\̵͇̿̿\з=༼ຈل͜ຈ༽=ε/̵͇̿̿/'̿'̿ ̿ ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿  
░▒▓│ FORKAY‼ «  » WΘΘT ‼ │▓▒░
Xeon E5-1680 V2 (IVY-E) Inside


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post #2666 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laithan View Post

Here is a basic picture walk-through of installing an EK water block on a Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1.

Grab some popcorn and enjoy!
jerry.gif

The instructions that come with the blocks are good so this is a supplemental picture reference.
How to install an EK water block (Click to show)

Last moments of being an AIR cooled GPU


Goodbye windforce


You're too darn loud anyway


Remove ALL screws accessible from the backplate of the GPU


Pull the cooler off the PCB gently. Don't pull too much, there's 3 plugs to disconnect. Bottom right corner of this pic is the one you remove first. It is hard to see.


Disconnecting the single plug allows you to flip the cooler over while the other 2 wires are still connected


The plug on the right comes out easily. The one on the left has a death grip (locking plug) but if you gently pull up you can easily pull the plug right off. Yes it can be re-installed and it will work just fine. wink.gif


This is the only way I could remove this plug. But you can see it will easily slide right back on if ever needed later.


Now time to remove the backplate. Looking now at the top of the GPU, remove all 4 remaining screws that are now accessible after removing the cooler


I have to say, this backplate feels thinner than the 980.. It feels light and flimsy..


Time to clean up. No shortcuts here. It is a pain in the butt however you need things nice and clean biggrin.gif


EK Gives you some paste and I guess it is supposedly pretty good but I use TX4


Time to install the heat transfer pads for the VRMs, memory modules and mosfets


All prepped, making sure ALL edges of everything was completely covered with the transfer pad


And ready to install the block


I now take the block and slightly "season" it with TX4 so that it will make a better bond with the GPU since there are grooves in the block.


Here it is, all done!


Now to install the back plate


More heat transfer pads are needed because the backplate is actually a passive cooler and not thin and flimsy like the stock backplate.


In back of the GPU as well to pull heat away


Installed! By the way, I should have read the instructions for the backplate FIRST because I ended up having to take out some of the screws I had just put in for the backplate to install but it was no big deal. Just wanted to point this out for others to read both instructions at the same time and you'll see what I mean wink.gif


Looking hot!


That's one fine slim body right there wink.gif


How she'll look installed in the case (the same orientation)

I hope you enjoyed the tour!

santa.gif

This is great i was skeptical about buying a water-block for my gigabyte because i didn't want to mess anything up, but with your instructions it actually looks kind of fun. im DEF gonna do this now , thank man !! repped
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post #2667 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-03-2015, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laithan View Post

We're happy to help but you'll need to do a bit of "homework" first. smile.gif Just become familiar with the terms, the tools, the difference between DD and DP BIOS', download Maxwell BIOS Tweaker v1.36, NVFLASH from Joe Dirt's thread, any specific questions we're happy to help.

You're getting a pretty good overclock already so I wouldn't expect much more but it will provide other improvements.

Take a look at the original post in this thread, I keep a lot of useful information and links there. Also there are many tutorials in the interweb for flashing a GPU but IGNORE any of them that use Gigabyte's crappy flashing tool smile.gif.. Look for NVFLASH tutorials only wink.gif
Yup.. CPU is an old XEON X5470 and it is overclocked to 4.6Ghz tongue.gif It is pretty thirsty and can draw over 200W but the majority of the power being used are the GPUs with the modified BIOS removing power restrictions.
Yes, that's the way they've always been here. The voltage and power % sliders must be maxxed out for overclocking mode. Perfectly normal smile.gif


This depends how you configure power management mode. If you choose to use "PREFER MAX PERFORMANCE" or "ADAPTIVE" modes (FYI a reboot is required to make changes really work right). Prefer maximum performance is going to keep your GPU no lower than the default clock speed, which is 1291Mhz. I am currently idling @ 1291Mhz, 1.168v @ 48C temps because I always keep prefer max performance enabled. If you enable adaptive power management mode, then you can drop well below 1291Mhz (and therefor the voltage will also drop considerably). As you can see, even maintaining 1291Mhz is no problem for these GPUs.. I'm below 1.2v and below 50C.

Fanless mode will work if you use adaptive power management mode. wink.gif
Thanks Microtech for helping smile.gif

Zoonami, there are many ways to MOD a BIOS. It is possible to configure the BIOS to not require the use of an overclocking tool to raise the voltage and power % sliders. That's just not how we do it here, we like to give people the choice as to how they want to run their GPU. In my opinion, everyone needs an O/C app anyway to adjust overclocks, monitor, use a custom fan curve etc. so while there, just max the voltage and power % sliders wink.gif
Nope, not here biggrin.gif. Honestly, if I felt that I could live without an O/C I would have put more effort into that kind of BIOS. The reality is that no matter what BIOS I post, it isn't going to be specific to your GPU. The max stable clock speed is different for every GPU regardless of ASIC% (not directly related to max clocks) so unless I posted a copy of the BIOS @ 1455Mhz boost, then another at 1465Mhz boost, and another at 1475Mhz boost, etc. everyone that downloads this BIOS is still going to need to experiment and find the max game stable overclock. This means an O/C app is needed smile.gif.

When using a custom BIOS, unless you MODIFY THE BIOS FAN VALUES, or are on H2O, you NEED a custom fan curve. The STOCK curve isn't aggressive enough. Custom fan curves are found inside O/C apps smile.gif

Even if everyone modified their OWN BIOS, what happens when it turns summer and the temps are higher and humidity raises.. you start to crash.. now you need to re-flash the BIOS to lower clock speeds? That's a pain in the butt.

I use MSI AB 4.11 and I have zero issues with it using cpu cycles, crashing or anything else. Very small footprint. smile.gif

It isn't really different from stock it is the values/tweaks within the BIOS that make the difference. For example, with a STOCK BIOS you still have a voltage and power % slider. You still DON'T get the full power of the GPU unless BOTH are maxxed out. There is no difference here except the values/tweaks within the BIOS.

Due to the fact that the voltage range has been increased +0mV - +100mV there is a wider range. Regardless of the range, there is still just a "DEFAULT/MAX" value for voltage in the BIOS. The maximum value is going to be where the most voltage is allowed and that is not going to be available until you max the voltage slider and allow the maximum value defined in the BIOS to then be used. There are more ticks/positions on the slider than with a STOCK BIOS allowing you to dial in, if there was a specific reason you needed to do this (24x7 folding perhaps).

Same goes for the power %. The default power defined in the BIOS will be used when the power % slider is at 100%. The MAXIMUM power defined in the BIOS will be used when the slider is at 150%.

It's pretty simple actually right? wink.gif


What's the difference between DD and DP bios ?
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post #2668 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 01:48 AM
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Guys,

I bought G1 GTX970 last week for my Crossover 2795 95Hz 1440P monitor.

I noticed when i OC using AB or any other tool and start to play a game, it automatically down-clocks to 540Mhz. Unless i stop the OC and reboot my machine it stays at 540 Mhz.

Benchmark tools works perfectly fine and it can go all the way to 1530 MHz with the custom BIOS.

Is anyone facing this issue ??? It seems to be impossible to use any OC tool and run a game at higher clocks. Very annoying...
UPDATE:

As long as I change the Volt/Power only in AB ,GPU clocks at 1401 Mhz.

With Custom BIOS and Volt/Power maxed out, GPU clock goes all the way upto 1531Mhz.

But if at all i touch the CORE/MEMORY.....even 5 Mhz increase, GPU auto downclock to 540Mhz as soon as i start a game. Any reasons ??
How can i change the memory(samsung) clock without the GPU downclock ???

Please help.
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post #2669 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 11:24 AM
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Laithan, if you can please do more pics for installation of the fittings, hosing, rads, and filling/bleeding your loop. These are very helpful!
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post #2670 of 7855 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganron View Post

Guys,

I bought G1 GTX970 last week for my Crossover 2795 95Hz 1440P monitor.

I noticed when i OC using AB or any other tool and start to play a game, it automatically down-clocks to 540Mhz. Unless i stop the OC and reboot my machine it stays at 540 Mhz.

Benchmark tools works perfectly fine and it can go all the way to 1530 MHz with the custom BIOS.

Is anyone facing this issue ??? It seems to be impossible to use any OC tool and run a game at higher clocks. Very annoying...
UPDATE:

As long as I change the Volt/Power only in AB ,GPU clocks at 1401 Mhz.

With Custom BIOS and Volt/Power maxed out, GPU clock goes all the way upto 1531Mhz.

But if at all i touch the CORE/MEMORY.....even 5 Mhz increase, GPU auto downclock to 540Mhz as soon as i start a game. Any reasons ??
How can i change the memory(samsung) clock without the GPU downclock ???

Please help.

I have the same monitor! It's awesome biggrin.gif Mine does 110hz with the cable that came with it
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