Water cooling the ASUS 1080 Ti Turbo - Page 2 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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Water cooling the ASUS 1080 Ti Turbo

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post #11 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Update on my part. I contacted Asus via chat, email, and phone. All reps told me the same thing - they have no idea if this is a reference board or not. So I'm still stuck without a definitive answer. frown.gif
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post #12 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 04:26 AM
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Well I guess the next best thing you could do is remove the stock cooler and reference it to other 1080 Ti's. As long as it's pretty much the same it should work so long as the VRM's are in the same spot and there are no large capacitors or anything out of place.

Picture for reference.



And again with main areas to pay attention to highlighted.

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post #13 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:41 PM
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Im in for this answer as well. I bought the 1080 ti because it was available from new egg. I didnt think any release cards wouldnt be reference. Hope someone chimes in soon or Im going to just break apart my own. Please keep us posted!!
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post #14 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I took apart my card and here is the PCB. Thoughts?
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post #15 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:24 PM
 
 
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Okay, I took apart my card and here is the PCB. Thoughts?

custom board.

9980XE  •  APEX VI  •  3600CL15  •  KPE 2080TI HC  •  34GK950F-B  •  970 PRO 1TB  •  1600T2  •  800D


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post #16 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:37 PM
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MrTOOSHORT is right, that is a custom PCB.. A standard block for Founders Edition 1080 Ti's wont work.
Your water dreams might be all dried up with that card, if you are lucky someone might make something for it but who knows.

Not sure if he will be up for it but you can try hitting up @nateman_doo, he makes custom waterblocks and has a nice CNC setup.
Try messaging him and he might be able to work with you on something.
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post #17 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I ended up liquid cooling this card after all. I looked up some videos on YouTube for inspiration. I didn't want to go the route of a custom water block and then a custom loop. Maybe in the future, but for now I just wanted to get this going.

Here is what I bought:
• Kraken G10 bracket (G12 came out yesterday but the G10 works just fine and is $10+ cheaper)
• Kraken x61 liquid cooler (dual radiator)
• Black aluminum heat sinks, two different sizes (pictured below)

Not part of this discussion: I decided to liquid cool my CPU since I was already taking things apart. Why not, right? I bought the Kraken x41 to do that.

Once everything arrived, it was fairly simple and straightforward. I took the housing off the PCB. My card doesn’t have a back plate so I didn’t have to worry about that. Once I had the housing off, I applied the heat sinks over the areas that the housing had thermal tape/strips over. From there putting together the G10 and x61 was very easy, then I applied it to the card.

That entire process took about 45 minutes. Now here is where my plan didn’t go great.

Once everything was in place, I put the card in the motherboard and tried to put the radiator+fans at the top of my case. Well, this didn’t work out because I now had the radiator tied to the CPU in the back of the case and there wasn’t room at the top for the dual radiator (just the way my case was designed). I had to remove all the fans in the front of my case, as well as all the drive bays and my two hard drives, find new homes for my hard drives (2.5” SSD can go above the PSU enclosure, as shown in the picture, and my 3.5” fits perfectly on the “floor” of my case and is secured), and redo some cabling.

After that, I was able to put the dual radiator in the front in a pull configuration. Doing this was actually a pain in the butt, but eventually I got everything in and snug. I turned it on and gave it a test run and thankfully, everything worked. thumb.gif

I can’t remember all the details, but what I can remember is the following:

CPU Intel i5 6600K OC at 4.5GHz (this was my air cooled OC) running at 20 degrees idle, 40 under heavy load. I’m going to try pushing this to 5GHz tonight which is going to require a voltage push.

GPU has a base clock of 1480, boost clock of 1582. I had been able to push the clock to 1950 with air cooling and temps in the 80’s. But with temps that high it couldn’t maintain that 1950 rate. With the liquid cooling I’m now at 2200 stable, with temps not exceeding 46 degrees. It passed 3d Mark’s stress tests 7 straight times last night. Overall, very happy with this.




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post #18 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 01:34 PM
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@Sarynn that looks awesome! Glad you were able to get satisfactory performance.

Does anyone think it would it be possible to cool this card with the Watercool Heatkiller IV? I'm new to this, but the only place that looks like it maybe problematic with a lot of full cover blocks is the capacitor arrangement. The memory and VRM looks to be similar enough to reference. Everything else looks to me like it maybe similar enough. The Heatkiller doesn't look like it has any special cutouts for the capacitors, there's just an open area. I would think that it would fit. Would anything else be a problem? Anybody have experience with that waterblock?
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post #19 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 02:03 PM
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GPU has a base clock of 1480, boost clock of 1582. I had been able to push the clock to 1950 with air cooling and temps in the 80’s. But with temps that high it couldn’t maintain that 1950 rate. With the liquid cooling I’m now at 2200 stable, with temps not exceeding 46 degrees. It passed 3d Mark’s stress tests 7 straight times last night. Overall, very happy with this.

]

Good job man ... 2200mhz core is insane ... I'm so far only stable at 2025mhz or so ... I'm using the MSI Seahawk X which is basically the same thing you have hacked out of your Asus card, just comes from the factory water cooled (typical CLC GPU cooler). My load temps after a repaste are great ... I have to throw everything at it just to *barely* hit 43C at load and then it just hits it occasionally and then is back to 42C ... the CLC coolers are perfect for these later gen cards ...

thumb.gif

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post #20 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 05:57 AM
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Go open loop for the full experience!! Now if the card is non reference and you can't find a block, you may need to go AIO and EK has what you need there. The AIO will come with a waterblock/rad to cool your GPU die and a shroud with a fan to cool your VRMS.

Checked EK's site and I don't see their AIOs anywhere. I could swear they had them too. Had the funny little pump and res on one side of the radiator. I'm not misremembering am I?

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