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Had some conductonaut left over so I thought, what the heck.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Had some conductonaut left over so I thought, what the heck.

After repasting my GF's XPS 15 and my Dell G7 with the liquid metal I had plenty left over so I thought what the heck might as well do my 1080 while I'm at it. The results are amazing. I just got done with a 2 hour gaming session of For Honor and holy crap. Fan curve only reached 40% and it never broke 66c and it stayed pegged at its 2011MHz overclock the whole time. At 100% fans it seems to hit a wall at 55c under sustained load. This stuff is amazing, and with new cards around the corner I don't mind the risk. My only worry is the shroud around the heat pipes on the card is aluminium and I worry it might overtime settle down onto the area but so far so good.

Just thought Id share!
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 06:46 AM
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I've read that in the long term liquid metal is a losing proposition because it reacts even w/copper and/or nickel.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 12:32 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by vmatt1203 View Post
After repasting my GF's XPS 15 and my Dell G7 with the liquid metal I had plenty left over so I thought what the heck might as well do my 1080 while I'm at it. The results are amazing. I just got done with a 2 hour gaming session of For Honor and holy crap. Fan curve only reached 40% and it never broke 66c and it stayed pegged at its 2011MHz overclock the whole time. At 100% fans it seems to hit a wall at 55c under sustained load. This stuff is amazing, and with new cards around the corner I don't mind the risk. My only worry is the shroud around the heat pipes on the card is aluminium and I worry it might overtime settle down onto the area but so far so good.

Just thought Id share!

Easiest thing to do is simple prep work which also lowers the risk of LM drying out and all of the Gallium being absorbed into the copper (exposure to oxygen increases the effect of gallium absorption until enough is absorbed that the battery differential effect becomes close to 0 (between the coppper-gallium alloy and the LM on the outside, which stops more absorption): But anyway:

1) Remove the existing LM.
2) wipe the heatsink of the old LM and make sure any HARDENED residue is removed, but leave the silver stain--this will help reduce rate of gallium absorption.
3) apply Super 33+ tape around the edges of the GPU in four strips. The tape is thin enough to cover the resistors fully, but make sure the GPU core is clear and raised above the edge of the tape. Make sure the tape coverage over the SMD parts is complete so LM cannot leak into the resistor area and short something out. This is important to do, because LM can also eat away at the soldering job and cause those little parts to fall off.

Alternatively, you can apply 3 coats of transparent nail polish (wait 5 minutes between each coat) on the SMD's around the GPU core as well. I'm not sure which method will help insulate against any tiny oxygen molecules getting in, but I would not apply BOTH tape and nail polish at the same time, because that will raise the surface area and may possibly interfere with heatsink pressure (a common problem when people do both tape and nail polish on laptop BGA CPU's, as the CPU core is only 2mm above the green housing, and just tape by itself can cover that distance).

Finally, to prevent any LM runoff (guaranteed to stop any from ever getting onto the PCB), find a VERY highly compressible foam packing material (the thickness has to be less than 4mm) and it has to be VERY VERY compressible, literally down to <1mm with your fingers with no resistance. Then cut a square out in the size of the GPU entire housing area, then cut out an inside "square" in the shape of the GPU itself, leaving about 2mm to spare so the foam won't touch the GPU. But do not apply it yet.

Then you should trim the foam with some very sharp scissors (something like Titanium scissors will work) by "slicing" it in half (if that makes sense), but that will be a very long process without tearing the foam. Once you slice it in half, there should now be a foam dam about 2mm thick. Then if you want to be perfectionist, try to trim it down "section by section" to about 1mm and no more than 1.5mm with the scissors (this will require surgical precision). Doing this will *greatly* reduce any foam resistance of downwards heatsink pressure on the GPU (these low pressure heatsinks need as much help as they can get), while even the extremely thin cut out foam barrier will completely block all liquid metal from going anywhere if it happens to escape.

Sounds like a lot of work but if you want your hardware to be safe, you need to do the prep work.

In the attached picture, the far right trimmed foam dam is decent for a GPU, as long as the final trimmed thickness is <2mm.
These foam dams are NOT to be used to protect the SMD resistors! They are only to trap LM from escaping onto the PCB. Do NOT use foam dams to be lazy and not use Super 33+ tape or Nail polish at all. Best insurance: Foam dams+Super 33+ tape, or Foam dams+transparent nail polish (3 coats).
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 01:37 PM
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You don't need to cover the SMDs with anything unless you put too much LM. Even if you do put too much ... unless you have a vertical mount GPU it's not going to go anywhere.

I put liquid metal on my 950 in 2015 and it's still doing just fine. Never bothered putting it on my 1060 because my 950 only dropped a few C.

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