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Caps fell off 1080 Ti - how do I fix?

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Caps fell off 1080 Ti - how do I fix?

Obviously grab some solder and hope I don't kill it further... but that my only option? The legs are sticking out the tiniest bit from the plastic base but I'm hoping there's a cheap and easier way I can go about this but I'm not all that hopeful. My soldering iron is garbage and I'm not the best at it.

Was going to put some liquid metal on my 1080 Ti and the conformal coating I bought was taking forever to dry so I set it up in front of a space heater in the bathroom to dry a bit quicker. My GF went to take a shower so she moved it to another room, and either the heat (it was on low and ~1 foot away) made two caps come off or she grabbed the card by the caps and they came off. I'm personally thinking the latter but at this point I just wanna know how to fix it.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:23 PM
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If it was me, I would clean the connects, flux and place the caps back on. Then bake it in the oven 385f for about 8 minutes. I've had luck doing that to bad mobo's and GPU's, but nothing actually fell off the hardware.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 10:00 PM
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That ones a cake job, large component, large contacts and far away from other components. Clean it with flux and a cleaning brush (or use the tip of the iron), flux, heat and scrape the board contacts till you get rid of the old solder. It would be much harder to do on the cap so I'd just dab it a bit with the flux. Use decent silver solder but it doesn't have to be super specific high end solder.

Soldering is easy but most inexperienced people simply do it wrong, you aren't trying to melt the solder with the iron, you're trying to heat the component so that it will flow the solder when you apply it. I'll do my best to tell you how to do this:
Heat and clean both contacts thoroughly. Wipe away the excess flux from the area but don't wipe the contacts. Heat up the contact on the cap with the iron, remove the iron and apply the solder to the contact, you only need a tiny bit. If it's lumpy just heat the contact up again and it should flow. Repeat with every contact. Apply the cap to the board after it cools then apply light pressure while you heat the contact spots up with the iron. If both contacts have solder on them, it will simply flow together once it get hot enough they remove the heat. Let it cool again and repeat on the other side, you shouldn't need to add more solder. The reason for the cooling is becasue you'll likely be pushing down with your finger and you don't want the cap to get too hot. The capillary action does all the work as far a distributing the solder to the inside of the joint. You don't need a special gun or anything unless you do it a lot and especially on much smaller components.


I would not put it in the oven, no need to bake every solder joint just to get this one cap on. Plus I wouldn't trust the solder joint that already broke once, after baking it in the oven as it would be so much weaker than actually soldering it becasue of the low temp and lack of new solder.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 10:04 PM
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I’d get some solder paste and reflow using the oven method suggested above. I mean- I wouldn’t but I guess you could try. Direct hot air would be better.

If it were me, I’d just use two irons. I have shaky hands so it’s easier for me to solder the component all at once. Plus the component stays level since both pads flow at the same time

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by white owl View Post
That ones a cake job, large component, large contacts and far away from other components. Clean it with flux and a cleaning brush (or use the tip of the iron), flux, heat and scrape the board contacts till you get rid of the old solder. It would be much harder to do on the cap so I'd just dab it a bit with the flux. Use decent silver solder but it doesn't have to be super specific high end solder.

Soldering is easy but most inexperienced people simply do it wrong, you aren't trying to melt the solder with the iron, you're trying to heat the component so that it will flow the solder when you apply it. I'll do my best to tell you how to do this:
Heat and clean both contacts thoroughly. Wipe away the excess flux from the area but don't wipe the contacts. Heat up the contact on the cap with the iron, remove the iron and apply the solder to the contact, you only need a tiny bit. If it's lumpy just heat the contact up again and it should flow. Repeat with every contact. Apply the cap to the board after it cools then apply light pressure while you heat the contact spots up with the iron. If both contacts have solder on them, it will simply flow together once it get hot enough they remove the heat. Let it cool again and repeat on the other side, you shouldn't need to add more solder. The reason for the cooling is becasue you'll likely be pushing down with your finger and you don't want the cap to get too hot. The capillary action does all the work as far a distributing the solder to the inside of the joint. You don't need a special gun or anything unless you do it a lot and especially on much smaller components.


I would not put it in the oven, no need to bake every solder joint just to get this one cap on. Plus I wouldn't trust the solder joint that already broke once, after baking it in the oven as it would be so much weaker than actually soldering it becasue of the low temp and lack of new solder.

Thanks for the info! Yeah, I'm not putting it in the oven.

I've got this flux rosin core solder, is it really necessary to mess with flux?

I understand the gist of how to solder, but my track record with volt modding GPUs isn't great at ~50%. I don't mind losing an old $15 eBay 8800 GTX that I was planning on just having fun with on HWBOT but not a $600 GPU that you can't buy for less than $800 now

Pretty sure I'm just being a big baby, trying to solder to a middle pin on a tiny IC is likely a ton more difficult than this but I don't have faith in myself

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 11:09 PM
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It'll work but I've never used rosin core for anything. If you preflow both contacts and then heat them back up with a little bit of pressure I'm sure it will flow and make a good connection.
The rosin will leave acid on the board though so you'll want to clean it off.
The rosin is supposed to do the cleaning for you and it may be true but even if you used solid core and didn't clean it at all I'm sure it would still be just fine. The whole cleaning routine is important but isn't always necessary, if some form of corrosion was the reason for a failed connection you would NEED to clean it and scrape off any remnants but it looks pretty clean and it just fell off so I think simply adding solder and re-flowing with rosin core would be good enough in this case. I've done much worse
FYI I'm a MIG/Stick welder who can also braze and solder, built a lot of custom one-off copper lamps for mansions and such. Done a lot of various repairs on structural and electrical joints. Always works out fine, even when conditions weren't ideal.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 08:54 AM
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You could also solder little pieces of wire to the bottoms of the caps, flat along the bottom of the can with just a little sticking out past the edge. Then solder those wires to the pads on the board and secure the caps to the board with a little dab of hot glue. Be sure to get the cap back on with the correct polarity, that blue band goes to - .

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, it's not pretty but they're attached. I'll blame the fact I rolled out of bed and gave it a go without my morning caffeine Just gotta find my liquid metal and see if I kill the card or not.

If after all this it still doesn't work can I blame @white owl for not coaching me properly?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I AM TECH JESUS

had a bit of a panic when a few minutes into running Heaven the screen went black but apparently the NVCP took like 10 minutes after the driver install to install. Card seems fine, gonna go play CS:GO and make sure.

The whole reason I took the card apart was to put liquid metal on it but I think I stored the liquid metal too cold (in the garage) and it was impossible to spread so I gave up and put normal thermal paste on. So I essentially took my heatsink off, some caps came off, I soldered them back on, and I put identical paste back on. Great way to spend a Sunday/Monday
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 12:15 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
I AM TECH JESUS

had a bit of a panic when a few minutes into running Heaven the screen went black but apparently the NVCP took like 10 minutes after the driver install to install. Card seems fine, gonna go play CS:GO and make sure.

The whole reason I took the card apart was to put liquid metal on it but I think I stored the liquid metal too cold (in the garage) and it was impossible to spread so I gave up and put normal thermal paste on. So I essentially took my heatsink off, some caps came off, I soldered them back on, and I put identical paste back on. Great way to spend a Sunday/Monday
Sounds like a good couple of days to me!
Glad everything worked out for you! Time to start buying busted cards on ebay and flipping them?
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