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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 01:09 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by white owl View Post
It's been mentioned that more power isn't an issue, it's just not really a benefit either. You'll often find that 550w units are priced within $5-$10 of the same 650w unit, at that point why not?
I removed the content from my message a little while ago (don't know how to delete the post itself). I personally felt more comfortable having a bigger safety margin for overclocking, future video card upgrades, future processor upgrades, doing some USB charging, several hard drives, etc... and that safety margin typically costs $10-$15. If the OP is fine with their existing safety margin, OK by me.

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Last edited by jfriend00; 01-13-2019 at 01:16 AM.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 01:17 AM
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You seem to be under the misconception that PC hardware draws a lot more power than it really does so it has nothing to do with safety margins and more to do you overestimating the amount of power you need

As long as you only have a single GPU system you dont need more than a 450-650 watt PSU because the power draw of such a system is 250-450 watts and thats with overclocking which means you dont need a 750 watt PSU its overkill and it it will actually lower the efficiency of the PSU at lower loads if you you buy too much wattage

There is no harm in buying too much other than a little less efficiency but if there no need for it why waste the money on it?
It makes no difference if you have a 150 watt headroom or a 400 watt headroom maybe other than noise and heat otherwise its in your head

Have you ever tried putting a kill a watt on the outlet of your PC? you should try that and you would be surprised by how little your PC actually draws even when overclocked and at full load

Just keep in mind that any number from a kill a watt needs to have the rated efficiency of the PSU taken off so lets say you have an 80 plus gold PSU and the kill a watt says 500 watts you then need to take 10% off which means the number is now 450 watts

A kill a watt is pretty cheap so its not something that you need to spend a fortune on

Edit: The only reason i see to get a 750 watt PSU for a system with a single GPU is if you need a ton of SATA power cables which is the main reason why i still have my 750 watt its overkill and i get lower efficiency at low loads but i can live with that since i need 9 SATA power connectors and there are not many 550-650 watt units that have that many SATA power connectors

Not unless you pay extra for more cables from CableMod and in that case its cheaper to go up 100-200 watts

Seravee
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Intel Core I7 6850K
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Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming
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MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
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Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz
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Seagate Ironwolf Pro 14 TB
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Seagate Ironwolf 12 TB
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WD Ultrastar DC HC530 14 TB
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Seagate Ironwolf Pro 16 TB
Optical Drive
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Last edited by shilka; 01-13-2019 at 01:38 AM.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 03:11 AM
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https://benzhaomin.github.io/bdiefinder/

Also, my overclocked GTX 970 and Ryzen 2700X with PBO on draws no more than 490 Watts at the wall... that's with Intel Burn Test, AVX, AND TimeSpy Extreme running at the same time.

Under normal gaming or CPU only stress test, no more than 350 Watts at the wall.

... yet I still went out and got a new 750 Watt PSU.

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Asus Prime X470-Pro
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TeamGroup T-Force 16 GB (2x8) Pro Dark (B-die TDPGD416G3200HC14ADC01)
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Last edited by umeng2002; 01-13-2019 at 03:22 AM.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 04:06 AM
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490 watts from the wall with your PSU is about 450 watts at full load and 350 watts when gaming is 322 watts
Also is that number from the PC alone or with the monitor?

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MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
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Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz
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Corsair Force MP510 1,92 TB
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Seagate Ironwolf Pro 14 TB
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Seagate Ironwolf 12 TB
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Seagate Ironwolf Pro 16 TB
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 06:36 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by shilka View Post
490 watts from the wall with your PSU is about 450 watts at full load and 350 watts when gaming is 322 watts
Also is that number from the PC alone or with the monitor?
Just the computer plugged into a Kill-A-Watt. That was with my 10 year old Corsair TX750W PSU, which was 80% efficient, at least new.

That 490 is with the CPU and GPU going 100% (Linpack AVX at Firestrike Extreme running at the same time). In real gaming, I was seeing no more than like 300 to 350.

I just got a new Seagate SSR-750PX (80 plus platinum), but I haven't put the system on my kill-a-watt meter yet.

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Last edited by umeng2002; 01-13-2019 at 06:40 AM.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 06:57 AM
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Right so with the old PSU the number would be 392 watts full load and 240-280 watts gaming
And you mean Seasonic and not Seagate

Seravee
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Intel Core I7 6850K
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Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming
GPU
MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
RAM
Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz
Hard Drive
Samsung 840 Evo 500 GB
Hard Drive
Corsair Force MP510 1,92 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf Pro 14 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf 12 TB
Hard Drive
WD Ultrastar DC HC530 14 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf Pro 12 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf Pro 16 TB
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Last edited by shilka; 01-13-2019 at 07:02 AM.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 07:15 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by shilka View Post
Right so with the old PSU the number would be 392 watts full load and 240-280 watts gaming
And you mean Seasonic and not Seagate
Yeah, Seasonic. Assuming, the efficiency didn't take a huge dive, those would be the correct numbers.

Another thing, if you really want to get technical, is that the peak efficiency of a PSU is usually in the middle of it's power rating. Also on poorer PSUs, the 12 volt ripple (GPU and CPU are fed by the 12 volt rail) starts to go higher the closer you get to maximum loading.

I think PSU should be bought like monitors: only buy it if a reputable website did a review on it. Two PSUs can cost the same, so why buy the one with worse ripple, voltage regulation, etc.? You can get an excellent performing PSU for the same price as an average to poor one if you just do a little research.

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EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 XC Ultra
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Samsung 840 EVO 250 GB
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Last edited by umeng2002; 01-13-2019 at 07:19 AM.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 08:04 AM
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Most people dont understand how a PSU works and what it does and even if they do they might not care so you would be surprised by the amount of crap people even in this day and age buy
Just take brands like EVGA most of what they sell is junk but hey its EVGA a big well known brand so everything they sell has to be good

People go by the brand or the 80 plus rating not knowing the brand dont make the units in most cases and that an 80 plus rating has jack to do with quality
Take the lower wattage models of the Silverstone Strider Titanium series those have crap ripple suppression but hey 80 plus Titanium so it has go be good well its not they suck

Seravee
(30 items)
CPU
Intel Core I7 6850K
Motherboard
Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming
GPU
MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
RAM
Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz
Hard Drive
Samsung 840 Evo 500 GB
Hard Drive
Corsair Force MP510 1,92 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf Pro 14 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf 12 TB
Hard Drive
WD Ultrastar DC HC530 14 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf Pro 12 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf Pro 16 TB
Optical Drive
LG CH12NS30
Power Supply
Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 750 watt
Cooling
Noctua NH-D15S
Case
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass
Operating System
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 bit
Monitor
Asus PG279Q
Monitor
LG 55C8 OLED TV
Keyboard
Corsair Strafe RGB MK.2 with Cherry MX Silent
Mouse
Roccat Kone EMP
Mouse
HyperX Fury S XL
Audio
Sennheiser HD 598
Audio
Onkyo TX NR646
Audio
Dali Opticon Vokal
Audio
x2 Dali Opticon 2
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 08:25 AM
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OEM OEM OEM. As I think I have said in other threads (As has @shilka ) be sure to check the OEM who manufactured any given PSU. Remember that many PSU Brands like EVGA/Antec/Thermaltake ETC are just brand names slapped on the side of a PSU. They do not manufacturer said PSU. It is important to check the OEM to make sure it is a quality OEM who have provided a quality unit. These quality OEM's will give you the best chance at better voltage regulation and ripple suppression as well as general better build quality and internal components (Which lends itself to better voltage regulation and ripple suppression). However with anything that is not a given so be sure to always check out in-depth PSU reviews.

The other reason to check the OEM's, if things were not already confusing enough, some BRANDS will use a quality OEM in one product line, but not another. That is why it is important to check the OEM in a specific product line. Going for a well known brand will not always result in a quality PSU 100% of the time. Remember that in reality the PSU is the heart of the system.


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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post
Well IMO you're better off with a GTX 1070 Ti.
A 1070Ti costs almost as much as a 2070 so I'm not sure how I can fit that into the budget. Given the choice wouldn't I go with the 2070?

Quote: Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post
For motherboard, the Gigabyte Aorus Pro (or Ultra with debug LED and more PCB layers) is a stronger board than Z390 Phantom Gaming 6. The only main advantage the Phantom Gaming 6 has is the debug code LED , versus a status LED that indicates CPU/VGA/RAM.
I was considering the Gigabyte Auros Pro, I'll go ahead and switch to that.

Quote: Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post
For RAM, Corsair Vengeance is very rarely Samsung B-die. I would look into GSkill Ripjaws or GSkill TridentZ as they tend to be cheaper than Corsair RAM yet have a higher chance of being B-die (especially for 3600+MHz and 3200C14). Obviously, go with whatever is cheaper as Intel builds cannot make use of faster & tighter timing on RAM as much as Ryzen can.
Noted, I'll see what the price difference is.


Quote: Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post
For cooler, you can get stronger coolers for the ~$40 price, such as Thermalright's 5 x 6mm heatpipe True Spirit 140 or the Scythe Mugen Max or Mugen 5 with 6x6mm heatpipes and 120mm fan form factor. The Fractal Design Define R6 has plenty of room for all CPU coolers.

$42 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...22B-002R-00001
$43 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA9ZH3S91415

$48 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA9ZH6GN8650


If you're willing to go with a smaller brand, there's also the Reeven Justice. Oddly enough it is sold by Scythe USA on Newegg so maybe they share a supplier. There's some coolers that are around $35 or $25 in the case of the Hyper 212 but the large step-up in performance from a $30 cooler to a $40ish cooler is so large that it isn't worth considering a $30 120mm fan cooler with 4x heatpipes.
Noted, I'll take a look at these options.


Quote: Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post
Also unless you need to build now, I think you're better of waiting for a Ryzen 3rd gen CPU since the single threaded performance is going to be on par with i9-9900k. The Ryzen 2nd gen is already close in terms of performance when you take into account the 1st gen numbers and the threading goes up to 8 cores: https://www.techspot.com/article/156...cpu-benchmark/ , https://gamegpu.com/action-/-fps-/-t...v-test-gpu-cpu

I'll mention this but I'm not sure he's going to want to wait that long to upgrade.

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