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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-23-2019 08:03 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by upgraditus View Post
No, I just saw it on alternate then found it on Thermalrights site.
It doesn't really make that much sense to me, a higher RPM fan without adding more fins / reducing pitch? Wouldn't be so bad if it was just higher max RPM but it's higher from the off (600-1500 Vs 300-1300). It's also more expensive than the Rev.B, ARO-M14G and TS140 Power so I wouldn't recommended it over those currently either.
The additional 200rpm is good for 2-3c lower temps, and the way most reviewers test and go on and on aobout the 2-3c without even mentioning the addional 200rpm and additional noise, Thermalright decided the little extra rpm, noise and cooling was worth it to get better press.
08-23-2019 06:33 AM
upgraditus
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
You have Macho Rev. C ? I have most all other Macho coolers .. actually have had / tested / used most all Thermalright coolers and found them all to be excellent performers in their respective size groups.
No, I just saw it on alternate then found it on Thermalrights site.
It doesn't really make that much sense to me, a higher RPM fan without adding more fins / reducing pitch? Wouldn't be so bad if it was just higher max RPM but it's higher from the off (600-1500 Vs 300-1300). It's also more expensive than the Rev.B, ARO-M14G and TS140 Power so I wouldn't recommended it over those currently either.
08-23-2019 05:40 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by upgraditus View Post
Yet another iteration of the Macho (rev.C) is silently released with a new high speed TY 147AQ fan, more convenient side mount fan clips, 4mm less in height and they've gone back to the smaller contact plate which could be good for Ryzen 3000.

Complete nonsense (Chinese?) product highlights: "In all the quality, insist on keeping the fanless design way to achieve the perfect way to improve all the performance. The patented technology allows you to enjoy the highest perfect cooling performance for the likes of the players."

Strangely on Thermalrights page the fan is white/black whereas here it's a new grey finish...

Edit: On closer inspection the base doesn't actually look any smaller than ~52mm x 40mm so I guess their technical drawing is wrong.
You have Macho Rev. C ? I have most all other Macho coolers .. actually have had / tested / used most all Thermalright coolers and found them all to be excellent performers in their respective size groups.
08-22-2019 02:57 PM
upgraditus Yet another iteration of the Macho (rev.C) is silently released with a new high speed TY 147AQ fan, more convenient side mount fan clips, 4mm less in height and they've gone back to the smaller contact plate which could be good for Ryzen 3000.

Complete nonsense (Chinese?) product highlights: "In all the quality, insist on keeping the fanless design way to achieve the perfect way to improve all the performance. The patented technology allows you to enjoy the highest perfect cooling performance for the likes of the players."

Strangely on Thermalrights page the fan is white/black whereas here it's a new grey finish...

Edit: On closer inspection the base doesn't actually look any smaller than ~52mm x 40mm so I guess their technical drawing is wrong.
08-19-2019 07:57 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by UnexplodedCow View Post
Lapping by hand is imprecise, but still better than a convex base. I didn't have time to try machining the base properly, but went with the hand method, using diamond-coated files that I use on guitar repairs/builds (that are flat enough for the purpose), then finished up with sandpaper (I only had up to 400 grit) on a flat metal plate (glass will work, too), and then polishing compound to at least smooth things out some. The idea is go to slowly, stay accurate, and prevent the base from being convex again, or from being tilted.

A good, flat, knife-sharpening block will also work well. With such a large cooler, it's easy to reconvex the base, so inverting it (fins down) will help. I had mine slowly spinning while I used the file, and it made a starburst, or asterisk type of pattern overall (though it was constantly turning). The base did have a small ridge that was more like this symbol: /

Once I wore that down to cover the IHS, as the base is a little larger than, I flipped it over, and used the sandpaper, which was adhesive-backed to prevent it from sliding. I'd continuously turn it while moving it back and forth, and this not only worked faster for me than a back-forth/turn method, but it also kept the base flat. Keep the fingers as close to the base as possible, lock the arms, and use your torso to move. This will help minimize odd movements, and prevent the heatsink from tipping, which will convex the edge.

If you're really unsure, try contacting a machine shop locally and see what they'd charge; the end result would be very flat.
Nice guide.
Anyone looking to remove the convex for cooler base needs to be very sure their IHS on CPU is not concave .. because if it is you will end up with a void between flat base of cooler and concave top of IHS.
08-19-2019 07:18 AM
UnexplodedCow Lapping by hand is imprecise, but still better than a convex base. I didn't have time to try machining the base properly, but went with the hand method, using diamond-coated files that I use on guitar repairs/builds (that are flat enough for the purpose), then finished up with sandpaper (I only had up to 400 grit) on a flat metal plate (glass will work, too), and then polishing compound to at least smooth things out some. The idea is go to slowly, stay accurate, and prevent the base from being convex again, or from being tilted.

A good, flat, knife-sharpening block will also work well. With such a large cooler, it's easy to reconvex the base, so inverting it (fins down) will help. I had mine slowly spinning while I used the file, and it made a starburst, or asterisk type of pattern overall (though it was constantly turning). The base did have a small ridge that was more like this symbol: /

Once I wore that down to cover the IHS, as the base is a little larger than, I flipped it over, and used the sandpaper, which was adhesive-backed to prevent it from sliding. I'd continuously turn it while moving it back and forth, and this not only worked faster for me than a back-forth/turn method, but it also kept the base flat. Keep the fingers as close to the base as possible, lock the arms, and use your torso to move. This will help minimize odd movements, and prevent the heatsink from tipping, which will convex the edge.

If you're really unsure, try contacting a machine shop locally and see what they'd charge; the end result would be very flat.
08-18-2019 03:16 PM
HalongPort Those are amazing results.
In the meantime, I've returned my LGM RT and replaced it with an ARO-M14.
My temperatures dropped from 80-82°C to 74-75°C.

However, I am still thinking about going with the True Spirit 140 Power or with an expensive Eisbaer (or equivalent AiO) just to get the most out of my 3800X.

How did you lap your cooler?
Obviously, there are a lot of tutorials and reports about lapping on the internet and a short summary is just to get a thick glass plate, sandpaper (800,1000,1200) and either make an eight or push the cooler in one direction 5-8 times and rotate it 45° clockwise.
In the end, polish it with a suitable paste.

That's quite scary for someone who never has lapped a cooler or CPU in his life. Buy a new cooler for 45-50€, lap it wrong and you neither have a working cooler or a refund option.


Edit:
In addtion, I am also thinking about replacing the 3800X with a 3700X.
My 3800X scores the same as a 3700X in Cinebench Multi and it won't boost correctly.
A 3700X produces less heat thus the ARO-M14 should be the perfect match for it.
08-18-2019 09:59 AM
doyll True Spirit 140 Power really is the best cooler out there .. and much lower priced as well!
08-17-2019 03:20 PM
UnexplodedCow Finally got the 3900X today, and test results over the 3700X are hilarious. 2C hotter under Prime95, and literally the same temp (70C) using Handbrake, still using the TS140P and lower RPM.
08-16-2019 07:39 AM
Owterspace I didn’t bother milling mine down like I was going to. I did just rotate it and made sure I had enough paste, also when I tested last, 2 out of my 3 exhausts on my R4 were not running. @ stock clocks on my x5690 I am seeing the same temps again as I was seeing with LGMRT. For fifty bucks you really can’t go wrong with this cooler.
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