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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-20-2019 08:31 PM
jsutter71 My hard tube bending station. Finally decided to put some thought into the process and stop wasting tubing.
04-13-2019 02:44 AM
Andrew LB
Quote: Originally Posted by NewUser16 View Post
I never understood why people wouldn't go acrylic right from Get-go, you still have to bend PETG, so it takes faster to heat it up, is that the reason you willing to trade for some of the cons of PETG!

On the other hand..acrylic lasts forever, I have never ever cracked any of my tubes, even dropped it few times, acrylic doesn't absorb any liquid and has clearer look, you do it once and your done.
Long story short...Acrylic will always, always be better than PETG in every way you look.

Btw. I'm using Bitspower 16 OD 500mm clear acrylic, its superior product

I spent a lot of time reading threads like this prior to building my first hard tubing loop and I ended up going with Bitspower Crystal Link 14mm Acrylic tubing. There were too many things about PETG that kept me from considering it such as its low deformation temp, incompatibility with glycol based coolants like XT-1 Nuke, and the clarity or lack thereof.
04-10-2019 02:01 AM
Leonko And one more important thing, PETG tubes costs 2times more then acrylic

but when im looking at it right now,... acrylic has thicker wall ? 16/12, PETG - 16/14
04-09-2019 01:23 PM
NewUser16 I never understood why people wouldn't go acrylic right from Get-go, you still have to bend PETG, so it takes faster to heat it up, is that the reason you willing to trade for some of the cons of PETG!

On the other hand..acrylic lasts forever, I have never ever cracked any of my tubes, even dropped it few times, acrylic doesn't absorb any liquid and has clearer look, you do it once and your done.
Long story short...Acrylic will always, always be better than PETG in every way you look.

Btw. I'm using Bitspower 16 OD 500mm clear acrylic, its superior product
04-08-2019 06:57 PM
jsutter71 Just got this monsoon bending kit. Beautiful and very high quality. All metal. I just started appreciating the value of these bending kits. For years I just eye balled it and wasted tons of money on tubing. FYI. I've been using PETG for the last 4 years now and unless your system is running at very high temps and your using cheap tubing then you shouldn't worry. I tried acrylic and it's a PITA to work with. It takes forever to soften while bending and it cracks way to easy. I have all the proper tools for both PETG and acrylic. My system is still the same as my signature and unless I'm running a stress test to remove bubbles never had issues with overheating. During one particular stress test for over heating the gaskets on my Reservoir began leaking way before the PETG did.
12-03-2018 01:45 AM
Jspinks020 Just whatever flex tubing Food grade like stuff. Pretty Tolerant to quite a bit of stuff. That's something a little softer looks like or less or more wall, gets softer warps it etc.
12-03-2018 01:26 AM
B NEGATIVE
Quote: Originally Posted by mrkubanftw View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter 

Yeah but there have been reports (one at themodzoo iirc. EDIT: link) of PETG tube melting in the event of a momentary pump failure, something nylon tube nor acrylic is prone to do before a system powers down for a thermal event. Seems PETG has a lower melting point that could lead to a bad situation becoming something catastrophic.

I also would like to know more how PETG holds up over the long term seeing as it is not listed as being UV resistant like Acrylic. What effects, if any, will sunlight or UV case lighting have on it?

BTW, here's a vid B Negative posted in the acrylic pipebending 101 thread that probably belongs here just as well ...


Now ordinarily i would NEVER resurrect a thread from the dead, but this particular thread is a #1 google search for PETG VS ACRYLIC. If that's the case, it hurts me to see this thread so full of incorrect information. I melted a processor due to incorrect information presented in such fashion.


I'll start with this comment.



PETG does not have a lower melting point than ACRYLIC. In fact acrylic's melting point is roughly HALF of PETGS. You could stick PETG in the oven with a tombstone pizza and it should survive. Acrylic, however, has a melting point of about 160C, still not a temp you should be anywhere near as your cpu thermals itself into a shutdown.

Whatever video you cite, it seems much more likely they were using acrylic not petg.


Also i see all this talk about strength of the tubes. Come on. I mean really come on. You can throw out any engineering terms you want to describe these tubes, but miss the point entirely. As an engineer i'll tell you right now it wont come down to rigidity, tensile, torsional, nor elasticity, but a combination of all of these. Look for what you need the tube to do and ask yourself that question. It would be foolish to say acrylic isn't strong, its the same base as polycarbonate (the bulletproof stuff). PETG is known for its manufacturability.

And permeability? Come on. Everything is permeable by definition. Other than a nice gentleman explained how PETG is used largely in the bottling industry (should have been good enough information) The permeability issue... simply is not an issue. Consider it like a PVC as far as permeability goes. Its not too indifferent. PVC by the way are those schedule 40 pipes in your house rated to 600psi water pressure. PVC is also that stuff we used before hard pipes were a 'thing'. But to hell with my rambling, here's some of that awesome thing we call DATA: http://www.pod-sabic-ip.com/KBAM/Ref...il/10620_4.pdf


Personally... my case weighs like 80lbs. While it shouldn't REALLY be a LAN case, it looks bad ass, so i still lug it around to LANs. And like mentioned above, heavy cases twist, especially with an uneven load. Think your rig might be heavy? Look up the coreX9. It takes up my entire back-seat ffs. For myself, i would want something that's not prone to hairline cracking (i'm not saying acrylic DOES but it certainly can a lot easier than PETG). Also would want something that's pretty okay with some unintentional flex, for if intentional flex was our build goal, we wouldn't be having this discussion.


It comes down to this:

What do you want in a tube? Your answer could correctly land you at either PETG or ACRYLIC. There's no wrong answer.
Incorrect, Bottles are made of PET, not PETG for obvious reasons..... PETG is used for DRY materials,not wet.
Also PETG in a standard loop with no flow problems still collapses, I have spent the last few days designing a special part to stop this happening.... its such a problem that we were looking to stop selling it.



You literally have no idea what you are talking about, the deflection temp for PETG is lower than acrylic and thats the temp that matters. It does not have any material properties that we need.
Perhaps the pictures of PETG collapsed tube will convince you...tho I doubt it.....
09-03-2017 03:47 PM
Radnad Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aithos View Post

I've been going back and forth on doing a water loop for my last several builds but have never pulled the trigger because I wasn't sure it was worth the time and hassle. Now that I'm getting ready to do another build I'm having the same debate (again) and I think the look/durability of hard line may have tipped the scale. I came upon this thread because I was looking for some info on the differences between acrylic and PETG and I have to say: some of the nonsense in this thread (and elsewhere) is pretty appalling. I don't have a horse in the race (so to speak) so I thought I'd post some of my thoughts on the subject:

1) People need to understand that there is a LOT of bad information floating around the internet and you need to fact check before you post. I've seen a number of "tutorials" on how to bend acrylic that are flat out telling people to do things that will compromise the strength/integrity of the material. For example, I've seen a bunch of people saying to "quench" the tube after bending it... which is a TERRIBLE idea. Bending acrylic isn't like forging a sword, and most materials when taken from hot to cold to rapidly will be weakened tremendously if they don't flat out break. In other words: there are a lot of people out there who don't know what they are doing, and the fact is that acrylic is only prone to cracking or shattering if you've done a poor job of heating/bending it. It isn't brittle or weak at all, so it's pretty safe to assume that people who have had problems like that are almost entirely from user error and not some characteristic of the material.

2) If you're going to claim a position of "expertise" as a way to validate your argument (such as being an Engineer) then not only does your information have to be correct, but also relevant. I saw someone post a few pages back about how PETG actually has the higher melting point and they went on and on... but the entire argument is baseless. Why? Because it doesn't matter at what temperature the materials melt, it only matters at what temperature they deform. It is a fact that PETG deforms (and thus bends) at significantly lower temperatures, which means that in the event of a major failure where the system continues running (and heating up) the PETG tubing will deform in situations where acrylic won't. Even if PETG does have a higher melting point it's meaningless because at those temperatures the machine is toast regardless of which material you've chosen. Context is a thing, even if he/she was technically correct it wasn't relevant and only serves to confuse people by muddying the discussion.

3) People need to stop bringing up the "hammer" test and tensile strength and all the other things that either: a) don't apply or b) they don't understand. I'm not sure if the video I saw was the same video people were referring to, but the one I came across was so flawed (and biased) that I was literally laughing at how absurd it was. First of all, the method of heating was inconsistent. He had no way of controlling the rotation or distance the materials were heated at and didn't have any clear indicator of when the tubes were properly heated. Second, he waited pretty varied amounts of time between when he bent the tubes and when he "quenched" them. Third, he quenched them. Which aside from having a negative effect in general, has a differing impact on either material (IE: it doesn't affect each equally) and regardless of any other factors invalidates any "conclusions". Fourth, in the other tests (snapping/hammering) the force being applied was neither measured or consistent. It was pretty obvious even to a casual observer that he was skewing his tests in order to achieve his desired conclusion. Finally... none of it matters, because no one hammers their system and most people don't even touch, let alone move their towers, and if you do then perhaps you should take measures to make sure you protect the system and NOT DROP IT.

4) Everything has pros/cons, and neither material is the IDEAL solution for everyone. It depends on what YOU value most. For someone who doesn't mind the time/cost of learning to bend acrylic properly then I'd say it's clearly the better material, but that isn't saying it's better for everyone, just in that situation. For someone who doesn't want to spend a lot of time/money learning (and re-doing) bends to get them perfect, then PETG is going to be much simpler/easier and is clearly going to be the better material. It all comes down to each individual making their own choice.

5) You need to understand the motivation behind how/why companies would choose to release a "new" product that competes with their OWN products in the same category. It would need to either a) be a vastly superior and thus more expensive product, or b) be a cheaper/easier to manufacture product that will cost less or provide some other benefit to the company. If PETG was the superior material (in general) then I can assure you it wouldn't be less expensive. Period. Not even if it was vastly cheaper to manufacture, if it was better it would cost more than acrylic unless the market was dying and lowering costs was the only way to continue making money. Typically innovation that ALSO lowers prices happens when the lower price point is going to "unlock" significantly larger consumer bases (and there are plenty of examples of it), but water cooling is a TINY niche market even among enthusiasts that are themselves a tiny niche market. So innovation (superior product for less) doesn't apply, because there would be no pressure or motivation for the companies to lower prices.

Well this got longer than I intended so I guess I'll stop there, but hopefully you get the idea...

Although this was somewhat painful to read, its dead spot on!
08-30-2017 07:49 PM
jsutter71 I have a combination of EK and Bitspower fittings using Bitspower 16mm tubing. My system has been running for over a year and I've never had any leak issues. I've done a couple water changes with zero issues. Using distilled water only. My temps are cool and my system is what's stated in my signature. If you take the time and do it right you shouldn't have any issues. I have 4 EK-XE Rads and 3 Aquacomputer D5 pumps. My pumps are set to 65% power and my flow rate averages 3.8 LPM.



Youtube link
https://youtu.be/hG_t3UFBwoc
08-30-2017 07:09 PM
Dark Maiden I know with a lot of fittings that they must be a fit for the tubing hence EK must be with exactly 10/12 on the translation in inches 9.75 will make the internal diameter sit loose in the fitting cup and the outer diameter being 13 mm not 12mm difficult to work with and it certainly won't work with the press fittings as it will not manage its way correctly through the seal.

It might work for a while but the risk to the seals failing is greatly increased, I use EK tubing and fittings exclusively and it works a treat
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