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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-09-2020 09:45 AM
JackCY FD Define R4, once upon a time when it came out of the box only to start be cutting up shortly after and more properly later.

Some original pictures still on web, I don't have my own:
https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/48...ew/index4.html

Pictures of the cut ups and changes:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/1808...efine-rs4.html

I've posted in the Arctic thread before, I have 4x P14 PWM PST and 2x P12 PWM, they didn't run that much yet but I like their performance, noise profile (mostly, I think P14 PWM from zero PWM % was making a bit grunty noise but when PC starts I didn't notice it, only when trying to turn them off for fun with a PWM fan curve and them starting over and over when load happens), when they have unrestricted intake they push air straight behind them with this blade design, with restricted filtered angled intake not really and they struggle to have air as any fan and blow a bit of air around to the sides and not the straight stream behind them. Still considering how restricted the intake is, it's working fine.

Obviously I can easily open the door and have unrestricted intake instantly.



With the 4x 140mm P14 PWM as filtered intake it does finally seem to make a positive pressure inside when I left the rear open unfiltered, be it at idle or at load.

2x 120mm P12 PWM work well on my GPU:




The original FD fans were loud since day 1, motor noise. Gelid Silent 14 while fine as air forwarders are as poor as FD fans when it comes to dealing with restrictions.

The Arctic F14 is fine as forwarder but the P14 PWM are better, newer motor, less noise.

The Thermalright TY-147A of Macho Rev.A BW is kind of on it's way out, I don't like it's loose bearing and sometimes noise. I didn't notice or forgot when buying the P14 PWMs otherwise would have gotten 1 extra. It's not a bad stock fan for a cooler but the P14 PWM are newer and I think better. Considering modern CPUs are often limited by contacts and not by getting heat out of finstack, can't really test with my old 4 core which ever fan would be 1 C better on the cooler at similar noise level. All I know is that at full speed the P14 PWM blows straight through that cooler, had to wash it after it was running freely outside for a year+ full of fine dust, used P14 PWM to dry it out.

When at load and hot, if I open the front door eventually after short time it starts blowing cold air out the back of the case. With door closed and intake filtered the air comes out warm.
Even with only 3 filtered non pressure oriented intake fans while case would get warm at top rear it didn't struggle. Now it's still getting warm but that's just how it goes with dust filters and a front door.


Opening and closing the front door changes fan speed by 67 rpm when fans spin in the 1000-1200 rpm range, be it intake or exhaust fan. Surprisingly opening the front drops speed of the further GPU fan when there is more air going by it in fact to exhaust out the rear.
With fans not set to my usual low speed 500-750 rpm operation range but spinning around the 1000 rpm, the case doesn't warm up during GPU stress tests and all the hot air can make it out fine.
07-09-2020 03:06 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by Memmento Mori View Post
As to the testing i mentioned above, just wanted to ask for some advice or recommendations.... as it takes more time as expected..

After a month there is still not enough dust on them to have it enough visible for the dusting test.

But here are more or les the steps i want to do it.

1, threat the blades with the coating (done)
2, get them dusty enough so that an clearly visible layer of dust is on them (in process)
3, take them out of the PC - i will take out the whole flex bay so i dont have to take them out separately (want to avoid any wiping of the blades or fans by mistake)
4, will fix the blades so they cant rotate...
5, take a picture of each front and back before dusting
6, going havoc with the datavac on them - contactless
7, take a picture of the result and comparing before and after...

I would be happy if anyone have any advice or comment to improve it..

BR,MM
Interesting bit of experimenting / testing. Look forward to seeing how it all works out.

Wow! Just googled GYEON Q2 trim kit is $50! Cazy expensive!


Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
Connected to PERIF on EVGA PSU, where else since I got the splitter on purpose with the old useless molex to not waste any SATA cables. Molex has been used for decades and while it's an abomination of a connector I've yet to see one melted from too many HDDs connected etc. as those definitely consume more than even the high speed consumer fans.

5 port powered splitter.



Dremel vrrrrr vrrr.
3x140 mm front fans should be mandatory for any half decently designed case.

Interesting!

What case is it?

Assume image is the front?

How do you like your Arctic P fans compared to others (please name them) you've used?
07-08-2020 11:08 PM
JackCY Connected to PERIF on EVGA PSU, where else since I got the splitter on purpose with the old useless molex to not waste any SATA cables. Molex has been used for decades and while it's an abomination of a connector I've yet to see one melted from too many HDDs connected etc. as those definitely consume more than even the high speed consumer fans.

5 port powered splitter.



Dremel vrrrrr vrrr.
3x140 mm front fans should be mandatory for any half decently designed case.

07-07-2020 12:35 PM
Memmento Mori As to the testing i mentioned above, just wanted to ask for some advice or recommendations.... as it takes more time as expected..

After a month there is still not enough dust on them to have it enough visible for the dusting test.

But here are more or les the steps i want to do it.

1, threat the blades with the coating (done)
2, get them dusty enough so that an clearly visible layer of dust is on them (in process)
3, take them out of the PC - i will take out the whole flex bay so i dont have to take them out separately (want to avoid any wiping of the blades or fans by mistake)
4, will fix the blades so they cant rotate...
5, take a picture of each front and back before dusting
6, going havoc with the datavac on them - contactless
7, take a picture of the result and comparing before and after...

I would be happy if anyone have any advice or comment to improve it..

BR,MM
06-12-2020 07:23 AM
Memmento Mori Glad that you are interested in this not very common topic

I used the following product GYEON Q2 TRIM as my friend is using it on his car and is more than happy with the result.... What will be the result on a PC fan is the friend also curious

Anyway I want to test it also on 1 Noctua fan in my synology NAS for 2 reasons:
1, The blades are not high polished and have a more common surface than the NB eloops
2, The fan spins 24/7 so the result should be faster than I will have with my PC as i dont run my PC 24/7..

And yes only time will tell

BR,
MM
06-12-2020 04:10 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by Memmento Mori View Post
Dear Gents,

was looking for a specific information: hydrophobic coating of PC fans, does it makes cleaning them from dust easier? Im not using dust filters as the airflow is more important for me, and my experience is that even with the best dust filters you will never prevent the finest dust to compile in your case and you need to sacrifice the airflow ....

Im just looking for a way to make the cleaning easier. Im using an duster but anyway the finest dust sticks with the fan blades and creates an white/grey layer on them (mainly on the backside of the blades), you need to wipe it of them.... For cars are plenty of hydrophobic coatings for plastic parts and you basically just need to "shower" the dirt of it. For this reason I used on 1 fan the hydrophobic coating and now letting the fans get dusty At this moment im using NB Eloops which have high polished surface of the blades. What I noticed is that the coating repaired the micro scratches on the surface. After some time I will make some photos before the dusting and after it, to compare the results without wiping just "blowing" the fans.

Would be glad if you share you experience or thoughts...

And I hope it is not much off-topic to post it here

All the best.

BR,
MM
Intersting bit of testing you are doing.

Look forward to seeing your results and finding out what you are treating the blades with. My guess is it will help keep dust from collecting. That or it will increase dust collection.
Only time will tell.
06-11-2020 11:17 PM
Memmento Mori Dear Gents,

was looking for a specific information: hydrophobic coating of PC fans, does it makes cleaning them from dust easier? Im not using dust filters as the airflow is more important for me, and my experience is that even with the best dust filters you will never prevent the finest dust to compile in your case and you need to sacrifice the airflow ....

Im just looking for a way to make the cleaning easier. Im using an duster but anyway the finest dust sticks with the fan blades and creates an white/grey layer on them (mainly on the backside of the blades), you need to wipe it of them.... For cars are plenty of hydrophobic coatings for plastic parts and you basically just need to "shower" the dirt of it. For this reason I used on 1 fan the hydrophobic coating and now letting the fans get dusty At this moment im using NB Eloops which have high polished surface of the blades. What I noticed is that the coating repaired the micro scratches on the surface. After some time I will make some photos before the dusting and after it, to compare the results without wiping just "blowing" the fans.

Would be glad if you share your experience or thoughts...

And I hope it is not much off-topic to post it here

All the best.

BR,
MM
05-27-2020 02:33 PM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
On EVGA PSU PERIF means peripherals, and this is old 4pin molex cable for CD/DVD/pump/lights/what have you. "4 pin peripheral power cable" in the linked summary of connectors.

For max current handling you either measure it yourself to your specification or you look up the standardized ratings for connectors and cable used for the output and cable you want to use.

Considering this thread is about cooling, what are you doing? Hooking up a 12V high current car fan to the PSU?
It's all pretty well explained in last few posts. 8 fans, 3 of them NF-A14 IPPC to be powered and controlled with 2 Gelid 4-to-one PMW splitters with PSU power. 5 fans on 1 splitter and 3 NF-A14 on other.
So while adversary is being overly worried about the 3-5 times more power fans draw at startup or if impeller is stopped, trying to figure out and optimize the problem is a good thing.
05-27-2020 01:30 PM
JackCY On EVGA PSU PERIF means peripherals, and this is old 4pin molex cable for CD/DVD/pump/lights/what have you. "4 pin peripheral power cable" in the linked summary of connectors.

For max current handling you either measure it yourself to your specification or you look up the standardized ratings for connectors and cable used for the output and cable you want to use.

Considering this thread is about cooling, what are you doing? Hooking up a 12V high current car fan to the PSU?
05-27-2020 12:43 PM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by adversary View Post
Still do not know, as I say, have to inform myself.

If PERIF cames as not enough, what exactly you propose? Can I take +12V from VGA connector on PSU?
Seems PERIF is a ghost.

I gave you links showing most if not all power cable ends used for motherboard, GPU etc as well as pinout and amp ratings.
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