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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-20-2019 09:12 PM
XtrathiccFan
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
I dissagree. I prefer TY-14x series fans to NF-A14 hands down. They move more air at same nosise level.


Also you are blowing smoke with no fire .. TY-14x FDB / sleeve bearing run for years without issue. I have TY-140 in bottom of Define R2 case t for 9-10 years running pretty much 24/7 and still going strong. It's quieter than TY-143 on cooler .. and many other TY-140's in other builds with no issues. If I get up real close I can hear the ball-bearing in TY-143 after all these years. TY-140 has been OEM for long, long time because Thermalright changed colors to black/white from grey/blue or whatever colors the TY-140 are. Then a few years later to TY-147A with lower idle and speed curve.



These Thermalright fan were / are may people's prefered fan when they can get them at reasonable prices. They perform well, are quiet and last a long, long time.
Maybe I got a defective unit, it did start to rattle after 3 month of use, I am not making that up, I can provide a video proof if you want.

Personal preference is, well, personal preference. You prefer TY-14x due to its "reasonable" price, I prefer A14 for its bearing and smoother sound profile. There is no right or wrong choosing either, that's just personal preference after all.

TY-143's ball-bearing sound is very present while running at 1000 rpm, maybe you don't mind it, but some people do.

As for performance, I would rather believe independent review.
10-20-2019 05:53 PM
D-EJ915 I didn't notice much sound difference between my A14 IPPC 2000 and my Cooljag and TY fans. The only one that is more annoying is the TY-143 which both of mine have bearing noise. If sound quality is a concern just order 1 of each from amazon and return the one you don't like because they all perform about the same. This is what I did for myself although I kept them.
10-20-2019 10:41 AM
Melcar For me the TYs move less air than the A14s or even the A15s, and cool slightly better. The TYs are much quieter with a smoother sound profile, however.
10-20-2019 09:59 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by XtrathiccFan View Post
The fan blade comparison doesn't make any sense. The blade angle and curvature are different between A14 and TY-147. Those parameters affect the performance and noise the most, e.g. A12x25 , MF120 AB, and gentle typhoon.

While running both fans (TY-147 and A14) at 1300rpm, the "loudness" or dBa is about the same, but TY-147 has a lot of air turbulence sound while A14 sounds smoother. Sound profile is subjective, but that's just my opinion.

Due to different blade angle and curvature, TY-147 (TY-143 in this case) is quieter but performs worse than A14 at same RPM.

TY-147 is about half the price of A14, which is okay for those who don't care about noise profile and want similar noise normalized performance.

However, DO NOT mount TY-147 horizontally because of its sleeve bearing, it start making a lot of bearing noise after 3 months.

Reference:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/08/19/t...-140-mm-fan/3/

I dissagree. I prefer TY-14x series fans to NF-A14 hands down. They move more air at same nosise level.


Also you are blowing smoke with no fire .. TY-14x FDB / sleeve bearing run for years without issue. I have TY-140 in bottom of Define R2 case t for 9-10 years running pretty much 24/7 and still going strong. It's quieter than TY-143 on cooler .. and many other TY-140's in other builds with no issues. If I get up real close I can hear the ball-bearing in TY-143 after all these years. TY-140 has been OEM for long, long time because Thermalright changed colors to black/white from grey/blue or whatever colors the TY-140 are. Then a few years later to TY-147A with lower idle and speed curve.



These Thermalright fan were / are may people's prefered fan when they can get them at reasonable prices. They perform well, are quiet and last a long, long time.
10-20-2019 08:58 AM
XtrathiccFan The fan blade comparison doesn't make any sense. The blade angle and curvature are different between A14 and TY-147. Those parameters affect the performance and noise the most, e.g. A12x25 , MF120 AB, and gentle typhoon.

While running both fans (TY-147 and A14) at 1300rpm, the "loudness" or dBa is about the same, but TY-147 has a lot of air turbulence sound while A14 sounds smoother. Sound profile is subjective, but that's just my opinion.





Due to different blade angle and curvature, TY-147 (TY-143 in this case) is quieter but performs worse than A14 at same RPM.



TY-147 is about half the price of A14, which is okay for those who don't care about noise profile and want similar noise normalized performance.

However, DO NOT mount TY-147 horizontally because of its sleeve bearing, it start making a lot of bearing noise after 3 months.

Reference:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/08/19/t...-140-mm-fan/3/
10-04-2019 06:22 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by eBombzor View Post
This is not possible with some recent cards from EVGA or ASUS (MSI/the AMD brands don't seem to have this issue) as they have this soldered metal bracket that connects the shroud and the fans to the heatsink. I have this problem with my EVGA 2060 and not even my 90mm fan can fit under those idiotic metal tabs that jut out like an inch high. It's ridiculous that they added these. Not to mention the screws that unscrew the shroud are covered under dense plastic now.

https://hardforum.com/threads/ncase-...ost-1043883004

Of course you can rip it off but that voids the warranty and takes a lot of elbow grease. ASUS card -> https://imgur.com/zqVruBd

The design teams went full Apple on these cards.
Bummer. I suppose if user has plenty of open PCIe slots a shroud from fins out past metal frame with fans on outside might work. Would make GPU over an inch thicker than stock.
10-03-2019 08:49 PM
eBombzor
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
I don't know what P600 stock fans are but probably not very good. 3x SW3 will definitely do a better job of supplying air to system, especially with front closed.

As Shenhua said, front venting is extremely limited when closed with maybe vent area equal to 1x 120mm fan. So regardless of how good the case intake fans are this extremely small intake vent area will limit their airflow.

Also as he said, GPU coolers are terrible. Not only do they dump heated air everywhere, they use thin fans that don't move much air unless at high speed making lots of noise. Simple way to help GPU cooler is remove stock fans and shroud and use a couple of 120mm or 3x 80/90mm fans attached to fins with zipties.Google images for "fans on GPU" to see 25mm thick fans on GPUs .. some are ghetto but some look fine. Another option is get an aftermarket GPU cooler like Alpenfohn Peter, DeepCool Dracula, Raijintek Morpheus, etc., but that is a lot more money than 2x or 3x 80mm or 90mm fans and some zip-ties. Here is one of mine using 3x Arctic F90 fans. I used PWM on this one, but used Arctic F TC (temperature controlled w/ sensor leads that slip between cooler and GPU PCB). Might need to move them a few times to get them sensing temp and running at speeds needed, but easier than trying to find fan plug adapters from normal fan plug to GPU fan plug. Some motherboards have GPU temp control on some headers and using PWM fans with PWM splitter using PSU power works very well.
This is not possible with some recent cards from EVGA or ASUS (MSI/the AMD brands don't seem to have this issue) as they have this soldered metal bracket that connects the shroud and the fans to the heatsink. I have this problem with my EVGA 2060 and not even my 90mm fan can fit under those idiotic metal tabs that jut out like an inch high. It's ridiculous that they added these. Not to mention the screws that unscrew the shroud are covered under dense plastic now.

https://hardforum.com/threads/ncase-...ost-1043883004

Of course you can rip it off but that voids the warranty and takes a lot of elbow grease. ASUS card -> https://imgur.com/zqVruBd

The design teams went full Apple on these cards.
10-02-2019 07:19 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by Dtshaw View Post
The paper with the tape is the method i tried and as said above the only holes are in the dustfilter. i even thanked you for all the information but if that's how you want to interpret said words and me asking questions. Live and let live
Really???

Your post about blocking holes:
Quote:
Well, if i am being honest blocking all the holes in the front panel apart from the fans sounds like a lot of effort and if the SW3 with it's static pressure can counter that without the need for doing that. I am more than willing to pay the extra cash.

Don't get me wrong, all this information will help me from here on and nothing is ever as simple as saying will X cure Y due to the variables.
Nothing there about you actually blocking the openings.


The dust filter in in very front panel .. in front of the fans. We are talking about the panel about 2 inches from dust filter / grill panel that the fans are screwed onto.
10-02-2019 07:09 AM
Dtshaw
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
Leaving those openings open is like trying to scoop a bucket full of water from a pond when bucket has not bottom in it.
Fans with more static pressure won't help. We need to have the air only moving from fan toward back of case, not leaking back in front of fan.

All you need some pieces of paper and some tape or glue stick and cut paper to fit over fan mounting panel from inside of case covering all opening except where fans are.

If you can't be bothered to setup airflow so it can work why should I bother trying to help. You either don't understand how airflow works, don't care, or don't think I know what I'm talking about. Any one of those is good enough reason for me to stop trying to help.
The paper with the tape is the method i tried and as said above the only holes are in the dustfilter. i even thanked you for all the information but if that's how you want to interpret said words and me asking questions. Live and let live
10-02-2019 07:02 AM
doyll
Quote: Originally Posted by Dtshaw View Post
Well, if i am being honest blocking all the holes in the front panel apart from the fans sounds like a lot of effort and if the SW3 with it's static pressure can counter that without the need for doing that. I am more than willing to pay the extra cash.

Don't get me wrong, all this information will help me from here on and nothing is ever as simple as saying will X cure Y due to the variables.
Leaving those openings open is like trying to scoop a bucket full of water from a pond when bucket has not bottom in it.
Fans with more static pressure won't help. We need to have the air only moving from fan toward back of case, not leaking back in front of fan.

All you need some pieces of paper and some tape or glue stick and cut paper to fit over fan mounting panel from inside of case covering all opening except where fans are.

If you can't be bothered to setup airflow so it can work why should I bother trying to help. You either don't understand how airflow works, don't care, or don't think I know what I'm talking about. Any one of those is good enough reason for me to stop trying to help.
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