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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-19-2019 08:10 AM
ThrashZone Hi,
Prosecution through accusation no proof needed
Heck of a precedence floating around main stream snow flake demo world they settle then for public shaming and harassment for good measure
09-19-2019 06:54 AM
toolmaker03
Quote: Originally Posted by emeianoite View Post
*sigh* I come to OC to see it get politicized.

how so? to me their is nothing political about this. this is a clear example of the media abusing their power, to harm others, without any proof, or legal backing to do so. is this really how we want our legal system to end up? or do we need laws to prevent this kind of behavior?
09-18-2019 11:41 AM
emeianoite
Quote: Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post


and now for some sobering reality.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yYecoZKtz0&t=0s


why do we live in clown world today?

*sigh* I come to OC to see it get politicized.
09-15-2019 03:32 PM
toolmaker03 ok so I found this crazy funny skit online.




and now for some sobering reality.




why do we live in clown world today?
04-10-2019 03:33 PM
ShrimpBrime Most excellent! Them 40mm TECs aren't cheap at 50 bucks a crack!! BUT they are twice the strength than the one I use now. It's done very well through the years for me on occasional usage.

The one I had gotten came pre-sealed. Here's the data sheet. http://www.thermonamic.com/TEC1-12715-English.PDF
Purchased that from e-bay years ago. It was 10 bucks maybe?

So a little history and where it led me, might help you at some point in the future while I fully understand what you HAVE accomplished! _______

When I tried cooling a water loop, I found it near impossible. By reading some of this thread and your build, I was actually in shock at the amount of time effort and money involved with this setup. So I went thinking back to many experiments even down to making water blocks from poured aluminum custom castings, basically a block with holes drilled through it. Discovering it froze the block really easily, I thought perhaps cooling liquid with a few would do the trick. Well, like your system, needed a LOT of heat dissipation from the TECs. And that was a entire separate challenge as you have displayed here!

Always having ideas but limited time I was trying to make a different type of cooler with the blocks I made. Basically chilling the water on the inside of the blocks for the cpu cooling wasn't enough. I figured by using ALL of the surface area to cool the chilling loop, I'd have to run the water ON the blocks and then loop them INTO and through the blocks then straight to the cpu. With project delays, I never was able to make this reality. This was just one of very many ideas to actually USE as much of the TECs cooling capability as possible. Running water through the blocks just didn't supply enough cooling to the surface area of the water passing though. Gah. Wish I had the time for this one. I figure I was loosing 60% or more cooling capability passing water just and only through the water block.

Any how I came to a finalization of build and probably will never turn a cheek to it. It was the one and only way I could run a TEC, Freeze a Cpu and just have fun (not intended for daily use... but could) gaming benchmarking, experimenting with processors (all AMD chips) hitting clocks impossible even with a custom ambient loop. I run a Geothermal water loop to cool my TECs. It's super simple, pretty darn cheap to run and provides a super constant water delta and nice and cool too!! Tap to Drain or geothermal to sound cool seems to have had THE best effect for chilling a TEC and even processors over anything and everything I've ever tried set aside a pond pump in a bucket of Ice Water. The TEC sits on a decent cold plate, 1/8" thick 50mm x 60mm and that's right on top of the processor.

Any how, you are totally living a dream of mine and I really love this thread and others like it. + Rep all day and any one reading this thread should double up on that.

Let me read the thread all the way through though. You're adding more Rads, that I read (going backwards from here) but I have some questions for sure. They may already been answered though......

Big props man. I really dig this. I examined your picture/s a lot. Crazy awesome build man. Keep at it.
Might have to pick up one of those 224W TECs for sure. Right now I can idle a Ryzen 2700x at -25c and colder. At a load it's a little more challenging! XD
04-10-2019 05:16 AM
toolmaker03
Quote: Originally Posted by ShrimpBrime View Post
Now this is a very impressive build!! I mean it's big and wonderfully built. I think I read OP at 1750w of TECs!

6 X 331watt 31volt TEC's
6 X 224watt 24volt TEC's

I'm very curious the part numbers for these TECs!! I've been using a Singe TEC# 12715 Qmax of only 136W but was the largest watt TEC I could find that fit easily under most waterblocks at only 40mm. Do you have a couple of part numbers?

Maybe a suggestion for a single TEC solution?

lets start with the 224watt 24volt TEC's they are 40mm X 40mm. TEC model # 19911-5P31-15CQ-WT.


https://customthermoelectric.com/199...er-module.html


and the 331watt 31volt TEC's they are 50mm X 50mm. TEC model # 26311-5P31-17CW.


https://customthermoelectric.com/263...er-module.html


now I do suggest having the ruggedized epoxy upgrade done to the TEC's as this makes them a lot stronger, I asked for the wire upgrade to make the wires harder to pull out. this is a $20 upgrade per TEC, but I would say that it is well worth it.


https://customthermoelectric.com/cus...c-options.html



The following Epoxy based syntactic foam ruggedization seals the TEC from moisture and debris AND also strengthens the TEC against shock, vibration, and shear forces.

SE = Epoxy edge seal, 2+ mm deep

SR = Epoxy Ruggedized Sealing, 5+ mm deep

SRX = Epoxy Ruggedized Sealing, 5+ mm deep, with epoxy potting to extend around lead wires following width and thickness of TEC

SRD = Epoxy Ruggedized Sealing, 10+ mm deep or complete fill


SRDX = Epoxy Ruggedized Sealing, deep to 10+ mm or complete fill with epoxy potting to extend around lead wires following width and thickness of TEC


I got the SRX upgrade.
04-09-2019 09:37 PM
ShrimpBrime Now this is a very impressive build!! I mean it's big and wonderfully built. I think I read OP at 1750w of TECs!

6 X 331watt 31volt TEC's
6 X 224watt 24volt TEC's

I'm very curious the part numbers for these TECs!! I've been using a Singe TEC# 12715 Qmax of only 136W but was the largest watt TEC I could find that fit easily under most waterblocks at only 40mm. Do you have a couple of part numbers?

Maybe a suggestion for a single TEC solution?
04-08-2019 07:47 PM
toolmaker03
Quote: Originally Posted by Cerberus View Post
Have you had issues with pin rot? even a full Vaseline socket still gave me issues after 24/7/5-6 months at -40ish
well mine does not get that cold, but no, I do not get any pin rot at all, as condensation inside the chill box is impossible. the inside of the chill box, is always within 1C of the temperature of the water running though the chill box, because of the radiators inside the chill box. this environment prevents the formation of condensation, the only catch, is that the box has to be mostly sealed. their can be pin hole leaks without issue, but their can not be any gross leaks in the box at all. I seal all the holes in the chill box for the wiring, and water lines with liquid rubber. this plugs up all the gross leaks that would be in those areas. by using a wine cooler for the box, most of the box was already fully sealed.


on a side note, I use evaporative coolers to cool my home, not A/C. so the humidity in my house is high most of the year. so I needed a solution that would prevent condensation, regardless of the high humidity in my home.
04-08-2019 06:52 PM
Cerberus Have you had issues with pin rot? even a full Vaseline socket still gave me issues after 24/7/5-6 months at -40ish
04-08-2019 06:13 PM
toolmaker03
Quote: Originally Posted by Hydroplane View Post
Nice to see this still active! I love crazy builds like this. Been thinking of some condensation-fighting means for my own chiller contraption:

1. Vermiculite (kind of like potted plant soil)
2. Plumber's Putty (maybe for the bottom of the mobo)
3. Small chest freezer (basically as a chillbox, would need to use watercooled GPU, otherwise too much heat for the freezer to cool. It would just be to provide cold dry air around the components. Downside: have a big freezer in my house now)
4. AC unit based chillbox (would have to modify the AC to run below ~50F)
5. Dehumidifier box

How did the clay work out? I looked at using some for motherboard insulation instead of overpriced kneaded eraser, but most clays contain water. The plumber's putty I think is non-conductive.

well I did do several different designs before I ended up with the composition I have now. to start I do have eraser putty in between the water blocks, completely encasing the TEC's. than I covered the entire cold side water loop, in two layers of 5/8" thick foam. than I covered that in clay, about 1/4" thick across the cold side water loop. this setup completely stops all condensation down to -18C on this build. if the build was not capable of getting that cold I might have been able to get away with one layer of foam. the clay servers several roles. first it creates a air tight barrier between the ambient air and the cold side water loop. the second thing it does it fill in, or cover all the tiny holes that foam insulation will leave all over the cold side water loop. third, because I covered the water pumps as well, the environment around the water pump is cooled to the same temperature as the cold side water, so I do not have condensation forming on the electronics of the water pumps. so I would say that it works great.
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