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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-06-2020 12:51 PM
cisco150
Help, Evga 2080 ti XC Gaming Mod Bios help me choose

Hi guys I wanted to know if this Bios is safe to run 24/7 on my card Evga 2080 Ti XC Gaming, Bios is the EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin Custom PCB (3x8-Pin) 2000W x 100% Power Target BIOS (2000W). The card is water cooled with a 360 rad and a 240 rad water cooling my i9900k with a custom loop and PWM pump with distro block.
Here are the bios i tried, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin Custom PCB (3x8-Pin) 2000W x 100% Power Target BIOS (2000W), GALAX/KFA2 RTX 2080 Ti OC Reference PCB (2x8-Pin) 300W x 127% Power Target BIOS (380W and i wanted to try this one but haven't- Galax RTX 2080 Ti HOF OC Lab Custom PCB (3x8-Pin) 2000W x 100% Power Target BIOS (2000W) or ASUS RTX 2080 Ti Strix OC Custom PCB (2x8-Pin) 1000W x 100% Power Target BIOS (1000W).

Here are some pics of states with the kingpin bios only thing I see is voltage is at 1.125 i know its put at 1.125 by bios. I get up too 2190mhz on core and ram i haven't push pass 7600mhz. temps are around 49c or 50c those numbers were running 3dmark time spy a couple of times. any help would be great thanks. what Bios would work the best with this card. have 32gb of system ram with a Z390 Aorus master i9900k and 1050watt power supply.
07-05-2020 12:27 PM
J7SC
Quote: Originally Posted by TONSCHUH View Post
I'm up and running again, but I still have to bleed the air out.(...) Now I only need the cash for the Thermaltake Core P8 + Distro, because I'm over all the dust and hassle, when I have to move / drain / maintain the system.(...)

...looking forward to some 'before and after' air <> water temp comps when you're done. BTW, I didn't even know that there was a new TT Core (P8) out...looks related to core P5, but with extra items on the side and top...

Spoiler!



Quote: Originally Posted by kithylin View Post
If you are using an AIO (it sounds like you are) they have to have air bubbles in them to function. They could potentially burst and leak if they didn't have a small air bubble in it. All AIO's need to be positioned with the radiator above the pump, CPU or GPU. It's physics.

^^That's good advice. While most of my HD builds are custom loop. I have some AIOs, among them a TT 240mm AIO running on CPUs (same principle as GPU AIO) since late 2012...it probably lasted this long because it was on 24/7/365. Still, the other day I turned it off to clean the rad and fans. When I turned it back on (w/ rad in the same position above the setup), temps shot up...the pump is still working at the same rpm, but some bubbles must have come loose and lodged in the wrong place; time for some AIO surgery
07-05-2020 11:32 AM
kithylin
Quote: Originally Posted by caki View Post
been using this card since 6 months without any issues but yesterday gpu started throttling like crazy and i found out that the culprit was pump stopping to circulate the coolant (radiators cold while card is around 85-90 C at idle in windows). When i restarted the pc i heard some air bubble passing sounds coming from the card and it was back to 30C idle when i checked again after the restart. However it got worse to the point where it would not start at all after multiple power cycles or just start and make the air bubble sound for an instance and stop again. Tilting the card and radiators seemed to solve the problem for a while until it started again. I didn’t know that the radiator had to sit above the pump level and its impossible to implement in my chassis anyway even if i did but i found a way to take the fans out of the chassis and hang them higher than the pump as a temporary solution. It solved the problem for 2 days and i was glad that the problem was gone until minutes ago when it made a stubborn return. Now since my card is non reference pcb i guess chances of installing an aftermarket cooler block is impossible? Anyway to bleed air from this system? I could find the third exit (tapped) from the pump on the card has some kind of a hole in it. Like the ones in bleeder valves.
If you are using an AIO (it sounds like you are) they have to have air bubbles in them to function. They could potentially burst and leak if they didn't have a small air bubble in it. All AIO's need to be positioned with the radiator above the pump, CPU or GPU. It's physics.
07-05-2020 09:43 AM
caki
aorus xtreme waterblock 2080ti pump issue

been using this card since 6 months without any issues but yesterday gpu started throttling like crazy and i found out that the culprit was pump stopping to circulate the coolant (radiators cold while card is around 85-90 C at idle in windows). When i restarted the pc i heard some air bubble passing sounds coming from the card and it was back to 30C idle when i checked again after the restart. However it got worse to the point where it would not start at all after multiple power cycles or just start and make the air bubble sound for an instance and stop again. Tilting the card and radiators seemed to solve the problem for a while until it started again. I didn’t know that the radiator had to sit above the pump level and its impossible to implement in my chassis anyway even if i did but i found a way to take the fans out of the chassis and hang them higher than the pump as a temporary solution. It solved the problem for 2 days and i was glad that the problem was gone until minutes ago when it made a stubborn return. Now since my card is non reference pcb i guess chances of installing an aftermarket cooler block is impossible? Anyway to bleed air from this system? I could find the third exit (tapped) from the pump on the card has some kind of a hole in it. Like the ones in bleeder valves.
07-01-2020 10:20 PM
TONSCHUH
Quote: Originally Posted by J7SC View Post
...nice !
I'm up and running again, but I still have to bleed the air out.

I also had to order a D-RGB-Controller + D-RGB to RGB Converter, because the EK-Block comes with D-RGB (5V / 3-Pin's), but my MoBo has only Asus Aura Gen-1, which comes with RGB-Header's only (12V / 4-Pin's).

It would have been also nice, if EK would have released the Mono-Block for the Maximus IX Apex, with RGB in some form, but I will not drill my own LED-Holes into it, because it's too much trouble, with having to pull everything apart again.

Now I only need the cash for the Thermaltake Core P8 + Distro, because I'm over all the dust and hassle, when I have to move / drain / maintain the system.

Core P8: https://www.thermaltake.com/news/view/index?id=838

Distro for it: https://www.thermaltake.com.au/pacif...p-d5-plus.html

I don't know, if I could replace the TT Pump with an EK-D5 or remove the pump and seal the spot with an sealed cover or just keep it un-plugged and only use my EK-Dual-D5's or use them all 3 together, but the TT-Pump only moves 1135L/h and the EK-Pump's 1500L/h.

06-30-2020 02:42 PM
J7SC
Quote: Originally Posted by TONSCHUH View Post
Got my Block + Backplate and installed them. Will still have to drain / flush / change my loop, before I can do some testing. &#x1f60a;

...nice !
06-30-2020 09:43 AM
TONSCHUH Got my Block + Backplate and installed them. Will still have to drain / flush / change my loop, before I can do some testing. &#x1f60a;
06-29-2020 01:26 AM
Imprezzion Scaling with voltages and clocks is so wierd for my card lol..

It's a Gainward Phoenix GS under a Kraken G12 + G52 with EVGA FTW3 Ultra BIOS with Samsung memory.

It can run 2070-2040Mhz all day stable in whatever I throw at it with 1.018v custom curve around 45-47c load but slapping the full 1.093v on it only allows it to go to 2115-2085Mhz at about the same temps (47-49c).

If I load up the HOF XOC BIOS at 1.125v it will do 2170-2130Mhz at 50-53c.

I tried dropping temps, obviously the X52 can go way lower but I don't have the fans going all that fast, but that had zero effect on stability. Even dropping to about the 38c mark giving the fans 80-100% doesn't improve stability at all.

Does my card just scale that bad past 2040 @ 1,018v?

What I also noticed is that power draw barely increases between 2040 @ 1 018v vs 2085 at 1.093v since they both max out around 340w. With the XOC BIOS it does go higher, about 370-380w.
06-28-2020 11:13 PM
sultanofswing
Quote: Originally Posted by Mylittlepwny2 View Post
Gotcha yeah didnt see your sig down there. My apologies. Boy that is strange. I assumed that since the KP cards are all binned they would be relatively similiar in their overclock behavior. Then again I also have Liquid metal on my cards so maybe thats a factor? Either way yeah 2205 is fine for both cards, though my first card can go as high as 2220 on most 3dmark tests. Its not 100% stable though. I have noticed though that if im running NVLINK or SLI or whatever you wanna call it that I have to downclock a couple deltas. 2175 is about the most i can do when using SLI without manually increasing voltage.
I can push the card well over 2200mhz but I require colder temps. I did 1 time do a successful Timespy run at 2205 without chilled water when I had my old 8700k setup which was the best GPU score I have gotten so far.




I have not done much benchmarking lately.
06-28-2020 06:40 PM
J7SC
Quote: Originally Posted by WannaBeOCer View Post
It looks very clean when the RGB is disabled. Yes they're cherry picked dies, from memory overclocks I've seen on the HOF it would suggest it uses Samsung memory but PCB shots I've seen showed micron memory.

...I think the early 2080 Ti HoF (incl. OCL) had Micron, the later ones Samsung. In any case, the Galax 2080 Ti HoF OCL absolutely dominate the top-GPU categories at HWBot. And per pics below, you can get the 'regular' (non-10th-anniversary) water-block edition.

...I like EVGA's KPEs and Classifieds and had 8 of them covering several GTX generations....three had some issues though of which two had to be RMA'ed. In any case, I look forward to what Galax and KPE bring to the table for the 'Ampere' gen in terms of water-blocked cards, along with Aorus etc.



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