| Topic Review (Newest First) |
| 02-20-2019 08:27 PM | |
| EKJake |
Parts list looks fine to me. I'd probably go for the ZMT tubing over the Duraclear just because I'm a fan of it. If it's a workstation type setup, would QDC attach components be useful for easier and faster replacement/maintenance? Definitely recommend a drain valve on this! |
| 02-15-2019 09:05 PM | |
| JustinThyme | Easy to test for concave. lay precision straight edge across the block. Nothing too fancy, machinist rulers are easy to find and not overly expensive. If it lays flat and no gap all the way across you are good. It can be used for the convex test too. if it rocks any at all its convex. |
| 02-10-2019 09:21 PM | |
| Ceadderman |
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinThyme
If its not flat on the table, its not flat mounted.
I guess I have simply been lucky with my EK CPU block experiences. Not a single one was domed. Cannot testify to concaved as they all lay flat on the bench. Out of the 5 blocks(one on a Predator) over the last 4 years not a single issue with them. I gave a client a Nickel base for his Predator because we had to RMA it and it's the same block dimension as the EVO I have. So he got the Nickel and I got the copper. In the end, after much hassle the Predator went back and he got my Hyper 212 with 30mm Sankyo fans on it and a full refund on the Predator. Keeps his 4970k pretty cool and those fans don't spool up like jet turbines so noise isn't a factor. We shipped the unit back for refund. Sadly I didn't retrieve the Nickel base. Ahhh well, rather have the Copper one.  lol Thanks for the clarification.  ~Ceadder 
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| 02-10-2019 08:31 PM | |
| JustinThyme |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman
Did you first make certain the screws were all tight and fully seated or did you do it without the top?
Not that I doubt you. Just pointing out that maybe your block screws weren't tight. If they aren't tight the block will always be distorted on the base. I've owned quite a few EK CPU blocks over the years since Supreme HF Classified and in my experience they were all flat after the screws were fully seated.  Apologies, I just have to ask questions to fully grasp every possible avenue of discussion.  ~Ceadder Take from box, check torque, place cold plate down on flat surface and give it a spin. Goes like top, return to box and send it back from where it came. My experience has been a crap shoot about 50/50 with all brands pretty much since watercooling first actually became a thing and EK didnt even exist yet. Best blocks back then were Dtek fusion. Those were mostly flat all copper clod plates and Id lap them with 2000 grit just to get the surface as smooth as possible. When lapping both just for that purpose Id get 3-4C drops just from that alone. Damn near dont even need TIM.... If its not flat on the table, its not flat mounted. |
| 02-10-2019 02:10 AM | |
| Ceadderman |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThrashZone
Hi,
No we all want leaking water blocks there is something seriously wrong with you  Obviously we don't like nor want a leaky CPU block. But he did say his block spun like a top when he spun it on a flat surface. You're assuming that he even mounted it to the system he intended to first before spinning it to test its flatness. So how bout you dial your attitude down a notch and let him respond to my question? I am not here to post attitude and I am sorry you see something wrong with my concern for your lapping idea. I am a modder too and while I applaud superiorly performed mods, I chalk this one up to lack of experience with the product more than I do well planned and executed. If you undertake this without becoming better informed by those with experience(not from me to be quite honest), well don't be surprised if you wind up with egg on your face. I did steer you to B Negative as he's been using EK longer than I and he works with them. I am done "torturing" you with solid advice. Go talk to someone who is more experienced than I. I don't know everything and I shall not bug you again. ~Ceadder
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| 02-09-2019 05:12 PM | |
| ThrashZone |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman
Did you first make certain the screws were all tight and fully seated or did you do it without the top?
Not that I doubt you. Just pointing out that maybe your block screws weren't tight. If they aren't tight the block will always be distorted on the base. I've owned quite a few EK CPU blocks over the years since Supreme HF Classified and in my experience they were all flat after the screws were fully seated. Apologies, I just have to ask questions to fully grasp every possible avenue of discussion. ~Ceadder No we all want leaking water blocks there is something seriously wrong with you
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| 02-09-2019 12:40 PM | |
| Ceadderman |
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinThyme
They are all design to be flat. As with anything else whats on the CAD and whats in your hand may or may not match. Last one I bought was VERY convex and spun like a top. Returned as I wanted my nickel plating in tact. Replacement from same source was spot on.
Not that I doubt you. Just pointing out that maybe your block screws weren't tight. If they aren't tight the block will always be distorted on the base. I've owned quite a few EK CPU blocks over the years since Supreme HF Classified and in my experience they were all flat after the screws were fully seated. Apologies, I just have to ask questions to fully grasp every possible avenue of discussion. ~Ceadder
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| 02-09-2019 05:05 AM | |
| JustinThyme |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman
Wasn't able to get back to this discussion till now...
The EK block is flat. Until you take them apart. There is some flex to them that allows for the jet plate once installed that gets it flat when the top is secured to the block. Lapping it will distort the block and the block will then not be as flat. My apologies for not being clear in my first couple of attempts to explain this. If you don't believe me then simply contact B Negative and he can hear you out and give you the straight skinny. He owns the WC'ing and picture thread and is the OP of it. He also reps EK. After this post, if you choose to follow through with this, I cannot help you on the matter. I have said my piece.  ~Ceadder |
| 02-09-2019 01:53 AM | |
| Ceadderman |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThrashZone
Hi,
Bingo Johnny we have a winner  The EK block is flat. Until you take them apart. There is some flex to them that allows for the jet plate once installed that gets it flat when the top is secured to the block. Lapping it will distort the block and the block will then not be as flat. My apologies for not being clear in my first couple of attempts to explain this. If you don't believe me then simply contact B Negative and he can hear you out and give you the straight skinny. He owns the WC'ing and picture thread and is the OP of it. He also reps EK. After this post, if you choose to follow through with this, I cannot help you on the matter. I have said my piece. ~Ceadder
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| 02-08-2019 05:49 AM | |
| ThrashZone |
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinThyme
Lapping isnt about getting the plating off, its about making the surface flat. I dont understand how a block that makes less than perfect contact is more efficient at heat removal. The idea is to get as much contact between the die/IHS and the block with TIMs only purpose to fill the micro scratches that can never be completely remedied. Ive found the EK blocks Ive had over the years to be hit or miss on the definition of flat. Some have been spot on, some have been concave and others convex. First test is put them on a flat surface and give them a spin. If they dont move then they are not convex. Test two lay a straight edge across them. If you see a gap then they are concave.
Bingo Johnny we have a winner
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