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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-21-2019 11:19 AM
bluechris
Quote: Originally Posted by rastaviper View Post
What latency do u have at 3733 cl16?





So you think that if I managed to set my Ram at 3800, the latency will be for sure worse than the 63ns that I get now at 3733?
At 3800 or 4000 i was forced to raise the CL to almost 19 and i lost latency but i haven't tested more to be true.
10-21-2019 09:10 AM
rastaviper
Quote: Originally Posted by Cidious View Post
Alright Thanks for your profile. Tomorrow I'll check it myself and give some suggestions about it but for now what you can try is this:



Set you memory to XMP profile and stock settings (1600 from XMP profile for memory). unlock Infinity fabric clock and set it to 1900 and try to boot. If it doesn't want to boot then you know your processor doesn't like it. 3733 is the only option then. If it boots then you know it's your memory giving you a hard time.



For memory use V1 profile Safe preset. use ALL values. power down disabled thought and definitely gear down enabled.



If it boots with V1 safe move on to FAST. if it still doesn't want to boot on SAFE then raise tRCDRD to 18 and try again with the same SAFE V1 profile. see if that helped.



Other options is to raise procODT in with the safe preset to 36.9 or one step higher that might also solve the issue to boot. Use the Safe preset as a starting point and step by step loosen things and see if it results in something. If not, set it back preferably unless you saw any kind of improvement.
Any news about the profile?
I think this is the limit of my system if no further settings can make my system boot at 3800.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
10-21-2019 06:36 AM
Filters83
Quote: Originally Posted by rastaviper View Post
What latency do u have at 3733 cl16?


So you think that if I managed to set my Ram at 3800, the latency will be for sure worse than the 63ns that I get now at 3733?
Nothing impressive but its ok i think considering i have power and geat down mode enable
10-21-2019 02:33 AM
geronimo hi all.

I need some help or direction because using values from the calc I can't get my RAM to work even at 3000mhz :-(.

It's G.Skill F4-3000C16-8GISB H5AN8G8NAFR-TFC x 2

on 2800 (SAFE) I get it stable using values from calc but when I go over at 2933 (SAFE) I get blue screen in win10 after some minutes testing with memtest that is inside DRAM calc folder. I run 5 instances of the app with 3100mb.
should I try prime95/memtest+/TM5 or that's a waste of time is the one above crashes.

system is Asus x370 prime pro wth latest bios, R5 2600. latest drivers in w10.

regards.
10-21-2019 12:00 AM
rastaviper
Quote: Originally Posted by Filters83 View Post
My 3600x not booting 3800 or better i have to tweak a lot so i stick 3733cl 16 @ 1.39v Bdie kit 68ns latency im happy whit that
What latency do u have at 3733 cl16?

Quote: Originally Posted by bluechris View Post
Yes, i managed to run my 3200 cl14 at 3800 by putting everything calculator told me but i like lower latency than bandwidth so i am in 3600cl14 atm.
So you think that if I managed to set my Ram at 3800, the latency will be for sure worse than the 63ns that I get now at 3733?
10-20-2019 11:48 PM
Cidious
Quote: Originally Posted by neurotix View Post
Be very careful doing this, and I would not advise any other members to attempt to remove the heatspreaders from their memory.


I ruined a very good G.skill DDR3-2400 cas10 kit by doing this, they use thermal glue to keep them on sometimes, and it literally pulled one of the ICs on the board off, which was stuck to the heatspreader, ruining the kit.

Indeed be careful but it's not as scary as that. You just need a bit of technical skills and take it easy. Not all kits are suitable for removal also. The Ballistix Sport is really easy just as most of the lower end kingston kits where the heatspreaders (rather than a proper heatsink) are just stuck on the chips with some adhesive tape. The way to remove them carefully is to use a blow dryer or industrial hot air gun to warm up the adhesive a little and then carefully pry them off with a plastic prying tool make sure you look in between to not hit some small resistors or capacitors, and take it easy step by step pry and wriggle the heatspreader loose gooing all around it. Not much more to it than that.

Most G.Skill kits are sufficiently cooled anyway.. no need to open them up at all.

Anyway of course this is on your own risk.

My sticks are fine after removal, I've opened up some hardware in my life and I own all the proper tools and equipment to do it. That's kind of it, you mostly need the right equipment, patience and preferably a magnifying glass with light in it like you can see in one of my photos. Then most jobs are not that hard, including soldering SMT parts. I soldered an extra M.2 connector on my MSI GS60 6QE motherboard that originally just had one but another port was showing up in the bios and it just needed a connector. for a few dollars I got myself another NVME slot in the laptop now running 2 NVMEs.
10-20-2019 03:55 PM
neurotix
Quote: Originally Posted by eBombzor View Post
Wow you really won the lottery there. That OC at those voltages. Pretty insane. Did you offset the SoC voltage or did you manually set it to 1.05?
I am able to run these timings on my 3900x- I used 1.45v though

Here are the results:


Attachment 301462


Pretty awful and the latency is much higher, bandwidth is the same, I don't know if it's an MSI vs ASUS thing, different Windows configuration, the 3900x design or what. The settings from DRAM Calc produce this (Runs at 1T too- no GearDown):

Attachment 301464



Also, my L3 cache latency is 0.4ns slower.


Just thought you both would be interested.





Quote: Originally Posted by Cidious View Post
So I know this is to talk about timings and the DRAM calculator but I'll share my experience with some custom cooling anyway


TLR

Since I own a kit of 2x8gb G.skill Bdie and a kit of Ballistix Sport 2x16gb Edie and the difference between the heavy solid heatsinks on the G.Skill and the flimsy ones on the Ballistix is enormous. So I thought I might be able to improve performance of my Edie kit a little more by putting some better heatsinks on it.

It came these black aluminium ones from Taobao. They cost just a few dollars and I ordered some 12 wmk thermal pads (1mm) with them but when trying to mount them I found that they are not well suited for use with dual rank modules as the next photo shows you. I tried thinning the thermal pads by rolling them but it would just not fit well. The only option would be shaving a bit of aluminium of the edge so they would be a bit thinner and use a thermal paste instead. Sadly I ran out of Kryonaut (only have conductonaut here atm) so I had to use some generic Chinese 2 wmk thermal paste which didn't work out so well.

After mounting the full kit with paste and booting up and running memtest I got errors after a while once they warmed up. I figured the thermal paste might be good enough but the biggest issue is that I found that the heatsinks are not anodized but painted in a thick layer of thermally isolating paint. When I pulled the sticks out straight after the memtest they were hot. Much more hot than with the standard heatsinks which tells me the heat gets trapped inside the paint. They are garbage. I tried to get the paint off but it's really tough. I used chemicals and sanding paper but the result is not very pretty.

I could sand both of them and zinc spray them instead of paint to get a cool look and still decent thermal radiation. But I decided not to go that way and get myself a kit of copper ones. Pretty much overkill but it will give me the option to test how much I can push them when heat is a non issue.

In the mean time I used the 12 wmk pads to stick the original strips of aluminum to and put them back in to the system and 0 errors.


What did I learn. Edie is very sensitive to heat. Maybe by cooling them better I can squeeze a bit more out of them. Who knows.



Be very careful doing this, and I would not advise any other members to attempt to remove the heatspreaders from their memory.


I ruined a very good G.skill DDR3-2400 cas10 kit by doing this, they use thermal glue to keep them on sometimes, and it literally pulled one of the ICs on the board off, which was stuck to the heatspreader, ruining the kit.


Quote: Originally Posted by bluechris View Post
Yes, i managed to run my 3200 cl14 at 3800 by putting everything calculator told me but i like lower latency than bandwidth so i am in 3600cl14 atm.

Yep.
10-20-2019 02:54 PM
Filters83
Quote: Originally Posted by Cidious View Post
So I know this is to talk about timings and the DRAM calculator but I'll share my experience with some custom cooling anyway

TLR

Since I own a kit of 2x8gb G.skill Bdie and a kit of Ballistix Sport 2x16gb Edie and the difference between the heavy solid heatsinks on the G.Skill and the flimsy ones on the Ballistix is enormous. So I thought I might be able to improve performance of my Edie kit a little more by putting some better heatsinks on it.

It came these black aluminium ones from Taobao. They cost just a few dollars and I ordered some 12 wmk thermal pads (1mm) with them but when trying to mount them I found that they are not well suited for use with dual rank modules as the next photo shows you. I tried thinning the thermal pads by rolling them but it would just not fit well. The only option would be shaving a bit of aluminium of the edge so they would be a bit thinner and use a thermal paste instead. Sadly I ran out of Kryonaut (only have conductonaut here atm) so I had to use some generic Chinese 2 wmk thermal paste which didn't work out so well.

After mounting the full kit with paste and booting up and running memtest I got errors after a while once they warmed up. I figured the thermal paste might be good enough but the biggest issue is that I found that the heatsinks are not anodized but painted in a thick layer of thermally isolating paint. When I pulled the sticks out straight after the memtest they were hot. Much more hot than with the standard heatsinks which tells me the heat gets trapped inside the paint. They are garbage. I tried to get the paint off but it's really tough. I used chemicals and sanding paper but the result is not very pretty.

I could sand both of them and zinc spray them instead of paint to get a cool look and still decent thermal radiation. But I decided not to go that way and get myself a kit of copper ones. Pretty much overkill but it will give me the option to test how much I can push them when heat is a non issue.

In the mean time I used the 12 wmk pads to stick the original strips of aluminum to and put them back in to the system and 0 errors.


What did I learn. Edie is very sensitive to heat. Maybe by cooling them better I can squeeze a bit more out of them. Who knows.
NIce i rly like experiment like this
I was wonder to ceck my b die gskill if i can improve a bit but they run already ok so far
10-20-2019 02:52 PM
Filters83
Quote: Originally Posted by bluechris View Post
Yes, i managed to run my 3200 cl14 at 3800 by putting everything calculator told me but i like lower latency than bandwidth so i am in 3600cl14 atm.
My 3600x not booting 3800 or better i have to tweak a lot so i stick 3733cl 16 @ 1.39v Bdie kit 68ns latency im happy whit that
10-20-2019 10:58 AM
bluechris
Quote: Originally Posted by rastaviper View Post
Anyone here with 3200 Ram on a Ryzen 3600x that managed to run them on 3800?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
Yes, i managed to run my 3200 cl14 at 3800 by putting everything calculator told me but i like lower latency than bandwidth so i am in 3600cl14 atm.
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