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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-07-2020 08:20 AM
ThrashZone Hi,
Seems normal to me with old design water blocks
All newer cpu's are coming out with shoulders or concave like a bowl dude just won't put a straight edge on either the chip or the water block and see the difference

Heatkiller 4 pro doesn't have near the bow in the cold plate to match these chips concave so all pressure is sitting on top of the chips outside corners thus leaving marks

If the water block has a lot of bow it's first contact is on the center of the cpu and more tightening spreads the bow to fit the cpu concave better.

I can't get a good picture showing how little the HK 4 pro bow is because it has so very little bow and all my new design Optimus water blocks are installed
But here's the bow on a new ek magnitude clearly showing quite a bit of bow on the cold plate.
07-07-2020 05:52 AM
CantingSoup Posting to say that the MO-RA3 is outstanding.
07-07-2020 05:22 AM
Watercool-Jakob This does seem very weird indeed. Our blocks do normally not become bent or indented or imprinted or take away any physical damage by simply mounting them to a CPU. So there seems to be something else at play here. Can you please send me an email to [email protected] with pictures from how your block was mounted, when and where you bought the block, your shipping address including phone number, and any assorted information on what could have happened? We will then help you!
07-06-2020 09:40 PM
outofmyheadyo
Quote: Originally Posted by chas1723 View Post
Why is your block so scratched? Did you try to lap it?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
No I havent done anything to it, mounted on the 2700x cleaned off the thermal paste, and thats it.
07-06-2020 04:07 PM
chas1723
Quote: Originally Posted by outofmyheadyo View Post
These show it better.
Why is your block so scratched? Did you try to lap it?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
07-06-2020 12:48 PM
garyd9
Quote: Originally Posted by outofmyheadyo View Post
Find another word to describe it then and listen to what im trying to explion, a waterblock should not have a Ihs shaped mark on it after one mount.
I think there might be some confusion. Is the problem that the cold plate is physically indented from the IHS (meaning that the plate is actually thinner over the entire area where the IHS made contact) or is the problem that there's a raised outline around the area where the IHS sat?

If the latter, it's probably just dirt that can be polished off (or corrosion of some kind - which might reflect an issue.)

If the former, placing a ruler edge on the cold plate and holding it up to the light would demonstrate the indent and more importantly would allow Watercool to better evaluate what is going on. The only other way to get Watercool to even be able to guess would be to ship the block to them in Germany (and be prepared to pay return shipping.)
07-06-2020 12:14 PM
ThrashZone Hi,
Simply put, over tightening will cause that combined with water block shifting as it's being tightened
Pretty tough to tighten all four studs at once with the same tension so the block goes straight down without shifting.
You simply show three corners were over tightened and one was looser since no marks on one of four corners.

AMD socket maybe off make sure all four mounting bolts are the same torque onto the board or the board is flexing without a back plate too possibly did you use a back plate.
07-06-2020 11:55 AM
outofmyheadyo Find another word to describe it then and listen to what im trying to explion, a waterblock should not have a Ihs shaped mark on it after one mount.
07-06-2020 11:06 AM
ThrashZone
Quote: Originally Posted by outofmyheadyo View Post
Check the first picture of my last post...
Hi,
You don't seem to understand
You can not show anything without a straight line on the warped object.
Otherwise you're just wasting image space.
07-06-2020 10:34 AM
outofmyheadyo Check the first picture of my last post...
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