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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-09-2020 01:06 AM
mattxx88
Quote: Originally Posted by zlatanselvic View Post
Sent them an email with screenshots. Will know more tomorrow when I assemble the rig and see if it works.
any news about? it works?
07-06-2020 11:37 PM
zlatanselvic
Quote: Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
Contact Rockitcool. They will warranty any product damaged by their delid kit, however I do NOT know for sure if it covers 10th gen.

Jacky, the ingredients are pretty cheap for how much you get.
I got 100g for $30 but its more expensive now.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallium-Scien...dp/B07L2XYF66/ (x2)
Indium (x2=40g): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Indium-Meta...e/223117510144
Tin: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tin-Metal-E...e/372414604222

Then a crucible to smelt it in the oven and some syringes and tips.
That's enough to make 150 grams. Not too expensive considering how much money you guys pay for other stuff.
And you can always sell small amounts leftover to someone else too.
Sent them an email with screenshots. Will know more tomorrow when I assemble the rig and see if it works.
07-06-2020 07:55 PM
Falkentyne
Quote: Originally Posted by zlatanselvic View Post
Hey Guys,

I had a misstep delidding a 10700k today for my office rig. The tool pushed down when pressing the IHS off. Never seen that happen before. (I did a 10900k a few weeks ago, and 9900k for a buddy over the weekend without issue.) Motherboard won't get here until tomorrow.


What do you think? Is it toast? I covered the gash with some super glue. I wish I knew how these PCB's were printed to determine if the traces are indeed on the surface or go down further.

From what I'm reading, if you're below the copper; you've gone too far. I think I am only through the soldermask and silkscreen layer.
Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
@zlatanselvic :
If you've cut any of the traces, it's RIP.
If you get liquid metal on those traces, it's RIP.

The slider in the delid tool should have 2 large rails on both sides, there should be no way it can dig down, I guess what happened was that the IHS while being pushed tipped down and dug into the PCB. This is why the better delid tools rotate the IHS instead or the expensive pusher delid tools are more precise and provide top support for the IHS so it can't angle.

Even if you only smashed some traces together, it's RIP.

As far as I know the PCBs are multi layer, there are tons of connections to make.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/9505/...ckage-analysis


@Falkentyne : Yes the liquid metal should be that simple. The thing is getting the materials and at a cost where it makes sense over buying the ready to use finished product.
Contact Rockitcool. They will warranty any product damaged by their delid kit, however I do NOT know for sure if it covers 10th gen.

Jacky, the ingredients are pretty cheap for how much you get.
I got 100g for $30 but its more expensive now.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallium-Scien...dp/B07L2XYF66/ (x2)
Indium (x2=40g): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Indium-Meta...e/223117510144
Tin: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tin-Metal-E...e/372414604222

Then a crucible to smelt it in the oven and some syringes and tips.
That's enough to make 150 grams. Not too expensive considering how much money you guys pay for other stuff.
And you can always sell small amounts leftover to someone else too.
07-06-2020 07:51 PM
zlatanselvic
Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
It's really weird how it could get damaged right in between the silicone. Even the IHS being pushed off wouldn't do that. In the Rockit tool I don't think it can even move anywhere as it does have a top.
How does the pusher dig into the PCB like that and not damage any of the silicone around, weird.

I used a cheapo tool so I got to see where and how things can move with all the imprecision of it and no clamp on top to keep the IHS down beside a screw running above it.

Aren't the 10 series soldered anyway? Why bother deliding it, doesn't seem worth it to me. I know some do it and there is a tiny gain but it's far from toothpaste vs liquid metal.

I hear you. I wish I knew how I got it wrong :/

I had good performance results on my 10900k with delidding. I figured what the hell, if you've got the tools and materials might as well get a bit more out of it and some lower temps. Crossing my fingers when the board arrives tomorrow it works. If not life goes on right
07-06-2020 07:42 PM
JackCY It's really weird how it could get damaged right in between the silicone. Even the IHS being pushed off wouldn't do that. In the Rockit tool I don't think it can even move anywhere as it does have a top.
How does the pusher dig into the PCB like that and not damage any of the silicone around, weird.

I used a cheapo tool so I got to see where and how things can move with all the imprecision of it and no clamp on top to keep the IHS down beside a screw running above it.

Aren't the 10 series soldered anyway? Why bother deliding it, doesn't seem worth it to me. I know some do it and there is a tiny gain but it's far from toothpaste vs liquid metal.
07-06-2020 07:19 PM
zlatanselvic
Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
@zlatanselvic :
If you've cut any of the traces, it's RIP.
If you get liquid metal on those traces, it's RIP.

The slider in the delid tool should have 2 large rails on both sides, there should be no way it can dig down, I guess what happened was that the IHS while being pushed tipped down and dug into the PCB. This is why the better delid tools rotate the IHS instead or the expensive pusher delid tools are more precise and provide top support for the IHS so it can't angle.

Even if you only smashed some traces together, it's RIP.

As far as I know the PCBs are multi layer, there are tons of connections to make.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/9505/...ckage-analysis


@Falkentyne : Yes the liquid metal should be that simple. The thing is getting the materials and at a cost where it makes sense over buying the ready to use finished product.


Thanks man,

I immediately saw the gash and cleaned it out and glued over it. I then let it cure and applied the metal followed by another coat on top of the glue just in case. It didn't seem pressed or dented, only the green layer and masking being removed. I have a new board on it's way arriving tomorrow. We will see if it runs. I got this tool from Rockitcool, and it's been solid on each use. I don't really understand what or how it happened. I imagine user error of some sort. Hopefully it's not dead. Fingers crossed for tomorrow!
07-06-2020 07:13 PM
JackCY @zlatanselvic :
If you've cut any of the traces, it's RIP.
If you get liquid metal on those traces, it's RIP.

The slider in the delid tool should have 2 large rails on both sides, there should be no way it can dig down, I guess what happened was that the IHS while being pushed tipped down and dug into the PCB. This is why the better delid tools rotate the IHS instead or the expensive pusher delid tools are more precise and provide top support for the IHS so it can't angle.

Even if you only smashed some traces together, it's RIP.

As far as I know the PCBs are multi layer, there are tons of connections to make.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/9505/...ckage-analysis


@Falkentyne : Yes the liquid metal should be that simple. The thing is getting the materials and at a cost where it makes sense over buying the ready to use finished product.
07-06-2020 06:42 PM
zlatanselvic Hey Guys,

I had a misstep delidding a 10700k today for my office rig. The tool pushed down when pressing the IHS off. Never seen that happen before. (I did a 10900k a few weeks ago, and 9900k for a buddy over the weekend without issue.) Motherboard won't get here until tomorrow.


What do you think? Is it toast? I covered the gash with some super glue. I wish I knew how these PCB's were printed to determine if the traces are indeed on the surface or go down further.

From what I'm reading, if you're below the copper; you've gone too far. I think I am only through the soldermask and silkscreen layer.
06-25-2020 04:07 AM
Loladinas
Quote: Originally Posted by TwilightRavens View Post
Anything even as far back as LGA 1155 and Ivy Bridge will work, Haswell too, any blocks designed for them will work as they all have the same mounting holes. Pure copper if you can get it but at least a high quality nikel plated one should work almost as well if you have conflicting metals on your loop with copper. Could also look into the delid die guard from our favorite German extreme overclocker.
You can use pretty much any block on the bare die, it's just the question of accurately measuring the thickness of the IHS and compensating with washers on the back side of the motherboard. I've been running bare die 3770K under a NH-D14 and a bare die 4790K under an EK-Supremacy block. Neither of them gave me any issues in over the year and a half I've been using them. Delid die guards absolutely help, and you can get them reasonably cheap from AliExpress, as I think derb8auer only sells the Skylake-X one.
06-16-2020 01:16 AM
Pinnacle Fit
Quote: Originally Posted by TwilightRavens View Post
Yeah THAT generation is well, I don't think I can say the word I want to say here, but we can use our imagination.

Lol yea. I think so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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