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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-22-2020 05:01 PM
idontbyte Hi Asmodian,

Just got the card apart, I took the old resistors off and replaced with 3MO resistors, I was mistaken when I said I added 8's - I had this done by someone who solders for a living, he did a good job.
I ran the card at stock voltages but max power target and a modest overclock, the card crashed out while gaming and now isn't detected by the computer it's completely dead.

Unfortunately I have no idea how to diagnose the issue as it's not my area of expertise so I may be waiting a while for NVIDIA's next cards!

Cheers
05-22-2020 02:56 PM
Asmodian
Quote: Originally Posted by idontbyte View Post
Just my two cents, I replaced my resistors with 8 mOhm and had in a water loop for 6 months but it popped today.
Going to frame it and put it on the wall.
Modders beware.
Did you replace it or add another resistor? What voltage did you run at?

I have been running mine since release, well over six months, with no issues. I am not sure your tragedy is due to this mod.
05-22-2020 07:56 AM
idontbyte
Modders beware

Just my two cents, I replaced my resistors with 8 mOhm and had in a water loop for 6 months but it popped today.
Going to frame it and put it on the wall.
Modders beware.
03-27-2020 12:57 PM
Asmodian
Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
I added just a little liquid metal so there is good contact two both shunts "and I do mean a little" and hot glued the extra shunt on the outside end just over the top and held the shunt down until the glue dried.
Works just fine and no soldering involved.
Want to remove it just use alcohol until it release the bond on the gpu board clean up a little and boom done no trace.
Liquid metal and solder are not safe together, the liquid metal will diffuse into the solder. This can mean nothing bad will happen, or the mod could stop working randomly, or that the original shunt desolders and the entire GPU stops working (probably unlikely with a very small amount). You also don't know what your real power limit is, though that isn't particularly important. The liquid metal is also likely to stain or leave a trace after being left in place for a long time. Soldering a resistor on top is quite easy and much less likely to change over time.

The only reason I can see for not wanting to solder is to abuse the RMA if it breaks.

Edit: Your hot glue and liquid metal is almost as likely to leave a residue as solder would. I can get a very clean desolder if I spend some time cleaning it up, and you actually flushed your warranty as soon as you started modding.
03-27-2020 12:15 PM
ThrashZone
Quote: Originally Posted by Imprezzion View Post
Doesn't that have a big risk of shorting the shunt and thus tripping the protection?
Hi,
Depends on how well it's done.
Beats the hell out of soldering and flushing a warranty down the drain.
03-27-2020 09:21 AM
Imprezzion
Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
I added just a little liquid metal so there is good contact two both shunts "and I do mean a little" and hot glued the extra shunt on the outside end just over the top and held the shunt down until the glue dried.
Works just fine and no soldering involved.
Want to remove it just use alcohol until it release the bond on the gpu board clean up a little and boom done no trace.
Doesn't that have a big risk of shorting the shunt and thus tripping the protection?
03-27-2020 06:43 AM
ThrashZone Hi,
I added just a little liquid metal so there is good contact two both shunts "and I do mean a little" and hot glued the extra shunt on the outside end just over the top and held the shunt down until the glue dried.
Works just fine and no soldering involved.
Want to remove it just use alcohol until it release the bond on the gpu board clean up a little and boom done no trace.
03-20-2020 04:30 PM
Asmodian Worth it... hmm... No, it is not worth it. It would be very hard to notice the difference in any real world workload. But this is Overclock!

That said throttling is more complex than "it says above 1905 most of the time". Throttling happens on very short timescales, the MHz you see reported is simply the average over the sampling timescale. Also, to check if you are throttling or not you need to watch the Power Limit trigger 0/1 value in Afterburner or similar. You can see stable MHz and still get very short throttling due to hitting the power limit. I do notice the difference in benchmarks too, very slightly faster with a power limit high enough to never trigger.
03-20-2020 04:23 PM
JackCY
Quote: Originally Posted by Ben B View Post
Very interesting, never would have guessed a 12ohm would add that much power. With all things considered, what do you think would be the highest power outputs i could push the card without going over into serious problems and risking too much of its health? crazy to think you used a 8ohm resistor. is the gpu you have being LN2 cooled ?
It's elementary school math.

I didn't think there is a need for a spreadsheet on web. Everyone just makes the calculation themselves or blind trusts what ever from internet, I prefer the first and do the calculations, check power delivery and it's capabilities from specs etc.

1/(1/R1+1/R2) = result

That's all there is to it for parallel connected resistors.

You should not attempt to solder SMDs on expensive parts unless you have some experience with soldering small components already. And in that case this whole thread is common knowledge and nothing new that a parallel resistor will change how high the power is sensed. I'm rather surprised they did not go away from the resistor sensing already, especially for these higher currents on GPUs.
03-20-2020 04:09 PM
Imprezzion Now all I gotta consider is whether it's worth it. I ran some tests on a lower load game that doesn't max out the power limit and set it to 1.093v in the curve and it didn't even manage 2080Mhz. 2055 on 1.093 is a maybe. It ran for a good 10 minutes and then I went and played some Warzone but then again, is shunting it worth not being able to resell it easily and barely gaining 100Mhz IF that even proves to be remotely stable. I mean, I'm at 1950Mhz @ 1.043v now with just 310w BIOS and in any game I run it stays well above 1905 most of the time only occasionally dropping to 1935/1920. This non-A is quite terrible lol. At least it has Samsung memory that quite easily does 8000+Mhz.
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