|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-20-2019 07:57 AM|
|06-20-2019 07:13 AM|
Further testings shows even more improvement than I thought since I "fixed" it. Temps are a 1-2 degrees lower on average and more stable. Almost straight lines in OCCT graph instead of all over the place.
Plus previously tested OCs run at lower voltages now. ex. OCCT small @ 5.1 GHz needed 1.32V before and now is stable at 1.30V.
Overall a win for this learning experience! Relid your chips with some silicone or adhesive and don't use excessive force in the process or when mounting the CPU cooler.
|06-19-2019 07:17 AM|
Ok, I fixed it!
I sanded .006 off the base, cleaned everything up, used brasso on the inside of the IHS to get it real clean again, reapplied conductonaut and put 8 drops of high temp silicone around the heat spreader and made sure not to use too much force in the relid tool. Let it sit overnight, popped it in just now and didn't fully tighten the EK WB and 5.0GHz 1.3V 1344 Prime temps are 50°C average with all cores within a couple degrees of each other.
I've attached pics. You can see on the die I was a little worried about those scratches/scuffs, and the inside of the IHS was all black which I thought might have been hurting things. And looking at the substrate on end you can see it's warped. some further reading shows that others have the same issues when they use these long term without glueing the IHS back on. Then force from modern WB and HS&Fs puts too much pressure on the substrate if its not glued. That explains why I had issues glueing this one as well, the heatspreader wasn't sitting right against the substrate.
So lesson learned, glue these things after delidding. My other two I glued right away are fine. hopefully this one stays fine now too.
|06-18-2019 11:55 AM|
Ya don't. At that point buy the CNC machined replacement copper IHS from RockIt. I think it's ~$20. I got mine for the 7900X for $13 during a sale.
Was hoping something like this existed. Now I am not too worried about screwing up the IHS. Just buy that one.
Although I do have access to a CNC Mill. I could 3D print a jig and machine the inside surface.
|06-18-2019 11:32 AM|
|06-18-2019 10:42 AM|
I suggest sanding the bottom of the IHS. You'll need to take the stock intel mounting bracket off by unscrewing the three screws. I am cooling my 9900k using a direct die frame along with a supremacy block from Rockit 88. With my 3770k I used the EK precise mount kit for naked Ivy. I don't see any direct die frames for 8th generation so I suggest reading up on the screw size you'll need.
The area the glue touches should be easy, and I plan to do this tonight. But what about where the die touches? How can I get in there and be flat?
|06-18-2019 10:40 AM|
I've never tried direct die mounting. Does the the die stick out past the socket bracket? Actually how does the cpu mount in the socket without the IHS?
Did you remove all the adhesive from both the CPU substrate along with the IHS? If you don't your IHS won't make proper contact with the die.
|06-18-2019 10:32 AM|
EDIT: Ah, I have to remove the retention bracket and be careful.
I might try this tonight. Will see.
|06-18-2019 10:20 AM|
|Renegade5399||You get those temps if you run it bare die?|
|06-18-2019 10:11 AM|
You can sand the die with 5000 grit sandpaper to make sure there are no strange imperfections on the top of the die.
But I recommend using a relid tool to relid, making sure you remove ALL of the old intel black silicone completely, and use four very small tiny drops of the RTV in each corner of the IHS, then let it cure in the relid kit for 2 hours. That's how I do it.
But on this chip its just not working... and while I was getting < 60°C doing Prime 1344s now those two cores get 75-100°C no matter what I do. Been using this chip since February delidded without issue until I went to glue it.
Only theory I have is I somehow warped the IHS.
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