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Thread: straw poll: Do you prefer tact switch or regular switch for wheel click? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-16-2020 09:11 AM
tailslol
Quote: Originally Posted by gipetto View Post
I think you're being unfair to him, tailslol. There's nothing wrong with determining the best design, and I'd like if more manufacturers would take note. The only issue i can see above is that the axle passes across two switches so if the wheel encoder is too low the axle may bottom out on the closer switch before it actuates the farther. The wide axle design avoids all of the issues though so I consider it already solved. I've only used one mouse like that, a microsoft basic optical and not for long, it having an office sensor, but I noticed that it was an efficient design with a pleasing wheel click.
i'm not being unfair,i'm just saying it isn't the subject or area.
if you want to make a new mouse start a thread.
01-16-2020 06:33 AM
gipetto I think you're being unfair to him, tailslol. There's nothing wrong with determining the best design, and I'd like if more manufacturers would take note. The only issue i can see above is that the axle passes across two switches so if the wheel encoder is too low the axle may bottom out on the closer switch before it actuates the farther. The wide axle design avoids all of the issues though so I consider it already solved. I've only used one mouse like that, a microsoft basic optical and not for long, it having an office sensor, but I noticed that it was an efficient design with a pleasing wheel click.
01-16-2020 06:29 AM
TranquilTempest
Quote: Originally Posted by tailslol View Post
well not a fan of the under index finger placement
we are not trying to make a new mouse here.
Well, the comment was about the actuator being easier to hit for tac switches, but that's irrelevant if you can turn the microswitch type switches 90 degrees.
01-16-2020 06:11 AM
tailslol
Quote: Originally Posted by TranquilTempest View Post
the clicks do sound and feel the same, even with 7mm+ difference in placement. And the sensor placement is a bit of an experiment, other thread has more detail. Can't get that far forward with a centered sensor, and there are switches there anyway. Instead I'm trying to center it under index finger as close as possible. That's irrelevant to the M1 and M2 buttons anyway.
well not a fan of the under index finger placement
we are not trying to make a new mouse here.
01-16-2020 05:57 AM
TranquilTempest
Quote: Originally Posted by tailslol View Post
you are drifting way to far from the subject and im trying to keep the same sound and feeling on both click.
in your case there is a lot of chance it will sound extremely and maybe feel different.
try to keep the sensor centered by the way...
we are speaking of gaming mice not custom desktop ones...
the clicks do sound and feel the same, even with 7mm+ difference in placement. And the sensor placement is a bit of an experiment, other thread has more detail. Can't get that far forward with a centered sensor, and there are switches there anyway. Instead I'm trying to center it under index finger as close as possible. That's irrelevant to the M1 and M2 buttons anyway.
01-16-2020 05:30 AM
tailslol
Quote: Originally Posted by TranquilTempest View Post
What matters is the distance from hinge to the pin plunger and the distance from the hinge to where your finger presses. You can match the hinge to plunger distance easily. If you did not match this distance, the difference will be about 1gf/mm, depending on distance to the hinge. I did not match this distance on my mouse, and my left click is 85g while the right is 80g, with a 7.8mm difference in that distance.

But I 100% guarantee the mouse you used as an example could have rotated the two right switches 90 and still matched M1 and M2 while keeping the shape of the shell and size of the mousewheel. I checked the layout I'm describing, it's 38mm wide, including a 12mm cutout for the wheel and the plastic support for the switch side of the mousewheel. M1 and M2 pin plunger centerline can go either 6mm in front or 6mm behind the scroll wheel centerline, depending on desired click force. you might get half a millimeter narrower by using to the switch orientation shown in your photo, but the gap between those switches is already double that, so that's not really relevant.
you are drifting way to far from the subject and im trying to keep the same sound and feeling on both click.
in your case there is a lot of chance it will sound extremely and maybe feel different.
try to keep the sensor centered by the way...
we are speaking of gaming mice not custom desktop ones...
01-16-2020 04:55 AM
TranquilTempest
Quote: Originally Posted by tailslol View Post
well no in this case m1 and m2 would not be symmetrical in the actuator position.
What matters is the distance from hinge to the pin plunger and the distance from the hinge to where your finger presses. You can match the hinge to plunger distance easily. If you did not match this distance, the difference will be about 1gf/mm, depending on distance to the hinge. I did not match this distance on my mouse, and my left click is 35g while the right is 30g, with a 7.8mm difference in that distance.

But I 100% guarantee the mouse you used as an example could have rotated the two right switches 90 and still matched M1 and M2 while keeping the shape of the shell and size of the mousewheel. I checked the layout I'm describing, it's 38mm wide, including a 12mm cutout for the wheel and the plastic support for the switch side of the mousewheel. M1 and M2 pin plunger centerline can go either 6mm in front or 6mm behind the scroll wheel centerline, depending on desired click force. you might get half a millimeter narrower by using to the switch orientation shown in your photo, but the gap between those switches is already double that, so that's not really relevant.

edit: forgot to subtract weight of mouse
01-16-2020 03:09 AM
tailslol
Quote: Originally Posted by TranquilTempest View Post
Sensor placed behind the scroll wheel definitely won't interfere with M1 or M2 buttons, though it would make you move the switch for a dpi button.

Looking at the PCB photo, you can rotate the switch for M3 90 degrees with the actuator in same place, M2 90 degrees with actuator to bottom right of M3, and M1 180 degrees, to keep switches in same pcb footprint and still maintain symmetric actuation force.

Also, those 3 diodes and the mounting screw can go elsewhere if you need more room.
well no in this case m1 and m2 would not be symmetrical in the actuator position.
01-16-2020 01:21 AM
TranquilTempest
Quote: Originally Posted by tailslol View Post
no it would be pretty tight,there is a dpi button and a front placed sensor.
Sensor placed behind the scroll wheel definitely won't interfere with M1 or M2 buttons, though it would make you move the switch for a dpi button.

Looking at the PCB photo, you can rotate the switch for M3 90 degrees with the actuator in same place, M2 90 degrees with actuator to bottom right of M3, and M1 180 degrees, to keep switches in same pcb footprint and still maintain symmetric actuation force.

Also, those 3 diodes and the mounting screw can go elsewhere if you need more room.
01-16-2020 12:03 AM
tailslol
Quote: Originally Posted by TranquilTempest View Post
Switches for M1 and M2 can be symmetrical, in front of the wheel click. Or in back of the wheel click if you want lighter actuation force.
no it would be pretty tight,there is a dpi button and a front placed sensor.
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