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-   -   [Official] Nvidia GeForce GTX TITAN Owners' club (https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1363440-official-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club.html)

Alatar 02-22-2013 03:08 AM

Nvidia GeForce GTX TITAN Owners' club

-Home for the owners of the most powerful GPUs on the planet.

Form here (only fill if you have the necessary info)

BIOS Flashing:

  • BIOS flashing guide and fixes for broken flashes (Click to show)

    I will not take any responsibility for damages caused by flashing the BIOS. Use the guide and the BIOS files at your own risk, this will void your warranty.

    What you need: GPU-Z, Nvflash

    The following guide is for single GPUs. If you wish to flash multiple cards please do so one at a time or see the Nvflash readme for further instructions on how to use the commands to properly flash multiple card systems. Don't type in the bracket but type in the info in the brackets. The commands are case sensitive and you need to include the spaces, please be accurate.

    1. Backup your old BIOS (GPU-Z, BIOS version field, button on the right allows you to save the current bios). Keep the old bios in the event that something happens during the flash.
    2. Download the new BIOS you'll be flashing to, it should be a .rom file, otherwise the flash will not work.
    3. Browse to your Nvflash folder
    4. Transfer the new BIOS file into the Nvflash folder
    5. Close all unnecessary programs
    6. Shift + right-click the Nvflash folder
    7. choose the open in command line option
    8. Type in the command: Nvflash --protectoff (case sensitive, please be accurate)
    9. Type in the command: Nvflash -4 -5 -6 [yourbiosnamehere].rom
    10. If the flash is a cross vendor one you might have to type in y a couple of times when asked to
    11. Nvflash will work for a while and close the 2nd command prompt after finishing
    12. Reboot
    13. Your card should now be flashed, test with Precision X or afterburner to see if the BIOS is stable for you
    14. Some flashes might need driver reinstalls afterwards, don't be alarmed, just install the drivers as usual

    If the flash goes wrong

    1. Shut down your system
    2. Take out the GPU
    3. Install a 2nd PCI-E GPU in the first slot (preferably Nvidia)
    4. Install the Titan to the 2nd PCI-E slot
    5. You should now have 2 cards in your system
    6. Plug in all the power connectors and other needed connectors
    7. Plug in your primary monitor cable to the card in the 1st slot (not Titan)
    8. Start up the computer
    9. Boot into windows
    10. Browse to the Nvflash folder
    11. Remove the earlier BIOS file and transfer your original BIOS (.rom file!) there
    12. Close all unnecessary programs
    13. Shift + right-click the Nvflash folder
    14. Choose the open in command line option
    15. Type in the command: Nvflash --protectoff
    16. At this point Nvflash will open up a new command prompt and display what cards you have in your system
    17. Select the card you wish to fix (usually done by typing in 0, 1, 2 etc.)
    18. The command prompt will close
    19. Type in the command: Nvflash -4 -5 -6 -i[yourcardsnumberhere] [yourbiosnamehere].rom
    20. If the flash is cross vendor you might have to type in y a couple of times when asked to
    21. Nvflash will now take a while to update the BIOS on the broken card
    22. After it's done shut down your computer
    23. remove the cards from the computer
    24. Put the fixed Titan in
    25. Boot to windows and see if everything is back to normal

BIOSes and Voltage control:


  • Zawarudo's 1.45v & LLC Tool (Click to show)

    For more info see this thread: https://www.overclock.net/t/1425102/released-fully-unlocked-ncp4206-voltage-llc-mod-tool
    Originally Posted by Zawarudo View Post

    Ok, so I've bit the bullet and decided to release this.

    here's a teaser screen shot @ 1.45v and 1400MHz

    This is an early version of my program. It can be used to enable LLC and check the status of LLC.
    It also changes the voltage to whatever value you want.

    Remember to change the slider for power target down 1 then back up and click apply to see changes.

    Please provide feedback if you use this, thanks.

    ZawarudoABHack.zip 69k .zip file
    • All in one tool, only needs afterburner voltage unlock before working. No need for extensive command promt work.
  • OccamRazor's advanced GK110 OC guide (Click to show)

    This guide applies only for 780/Titan, if and when we have support for the 780Ti, this guide will be updated to reflect the changes!

    DISCLAIMER: This is my view and my approach of the complicated and wonderful art of Overclocking, if you find any way to improve my guide i will be open to change it and give you credit for it! I take no responsibility for the usage of this information or hardware damage! Use this at YOUR OWN RISK!

    First of all dont forget you´re on OCN! You should have OC in your blood!
    Download and install the latest AB here: http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/msi_afterburner_beta_download.html
    Now, youll have to setup AB properly: Go to settings » general and tick the "enable hardware control and monitoring", "unlock voltage control" and "unlock voltage monitoring" and click "OK" at the bottom fo the window!

    Now download my: NEW ED´s VOLTMOD / LLC GUIDE and follow the guide to the letter including the LLC HACK as described in my guide also with a link to download!
    Now a word of warning: ON AIR DO NOT GO ABOVE 1,24V WITH LLC DISABLED:
    "Please do NOT GO ABOVE 1,212v WITH SOFT VOLT MOD AND LLC DISABLE! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
    No air cooler has the capacity to dissipate the heat load out of the VRM area when OC with overvoltage! And you cannot know the VRM´s temps, only do an estimate calculation based on your power draw! HEAT KILLS!
    Exactly what happens depends on how excess the power is. It may be a sustained cooking. In this case, the MOSFET gets hot enough to literally unsolder itself. Much of the MOSFET heating at high currents is in the leads - which can quite easily unsolder themselves without the MOSFET failing! If the heat is generated in the chip, then it will get hot - but its maximum temperature is usually not silicon-restricted, but restricted by the fabrication. The silicon chip is bonded to the substrate by soft solder and it is quite easy to melt this and have it ooze between the epoxy and the metal of the body, forming solder droplets! Excess heat leads to short circuit! Usually, a MOSFET will fail short first. This is because excessive heat will, by diffusion, mix the dopants enough to create a good conductor instead of the p-n or n-p barriers that were there originally. Often, the gate oxide will be taken into the diffusion, too, causing a short between all three terminals.
    Only if the short circuit current after this first mode of failure is high enough to blow the bond wires or the entire transistor, there is an open circuit.
    Another forgotten thing is the voltage controller NCP4206 itself! its rated for a maximum operating temperature of 85C and again no way to measure the temperature!

    Please guys PLAY SAFE!

    ON AIR MAX VOLTAGE: 1.212v + 0.025 (+-) 0.006v = 1.24v(+-)
    Keep the fan high and dont let temps go over 70/75C and even this is with a pinch of salt! thumb.gif"

    Now that you have your friendly warning, lets go on and OC your "Beast" GK110! biggrin.gif
    You have in AB five(5) sliders: Core Voltage (mV), Power Limit (%)(click to prioritize power limit or temperature limit), Core Clock (Mhz) , Memory Clock (Mhz) and Fan Speed (%)
    As you all know OC involves clocks and voltages and one important thing: Silicone lottery! Your card will go up in clocks up to a point where voltage cannot give you more speed unless you move to other cooling setup! As i always say: " There is no crap card, there is different cards requiring different voltages to reach different clocks depending on the chips capabilities" My 2 Watercooled Titans ASIC 69%,@1,[email protected] reach @1,[email protected]!

    First things first: Flash your card with the appropriate bios supplied by your in-the-house-modder my Brother Skyn3t!
    It will unlock your voltage up to 1,212v, disable boost and increase your power target up to 200% to enable your card along with voltage to up those clocks to where you want them!

    Titan Owners Club ( AKA T.O.C. Dinosaurs Club, thank Skupples for that Dino accronim biggrin.gif ) : https://www.overclock.net/t/1363440/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club/0_100#post_19353582

    780 Owners Club: https://www.overclock.net/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club/0_100#post_20027616

    and my guide on how to use it: ED´S EZ3FLASH GUIDE

    Now, you have your bios flashed, unlocked voltage, no boost and have a juicy power target of 200% to play with!

    ON AIR - Set your voltage in AB to 1,212v (Remember that with LLC disabled you have an increase of 0.025v ending with 1,24v), prioritize temperature on the Power Limit tab , increase your fan to minimum 70% and increase it as you see temps go up, dont let it go above 80C! PT SLIDER TO 100 only increase it if you are having throttling clocks and hitting 100% PT (More on this later wink.gif)
    Start by increasing +100mhz in the Core Clock tab, leave the memory at +0 for now, go play your favorite game or bench (I advise to use FarCry3 for clock testing along with Metro LL and 3Dmark11 you can use also Tombraider benchmark as many people have said its very stressing (not me! tongue.gif) )
    If you find your new increased clocks are stable through your tests, go ahead and increase another +50mhz to the Core Clock and so on until you crash, freeze or start to have artifacts, then back down 10mhz and test again! REMEMBER IT IS STABLE FOR YOU WHEN IT DOESNT CRASH IN YOUR GAME/BENCH, you´ll find that the word stable is dynamic and not static as it will vary from game to game and bench to bench, unless you´re benching and of course you´ll need high memory clocks, but as there is no way to increase memory voltage and depends on memory and your chip´s memory controller your millage will vary!

    Before you start to whine about "Hey what about the 13mhz increments, youre not doing in in the guide!"
    The values i suggest are figurative and you can try the accurate values you want of course, more on the 13mhz here with my Brother´s explanation: https://www.overclock.net/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club/13800_100#post_21206343

    You can create profiles for your favorite games and benches in AB:

    Now that you found your sweet spot between core clock and voltage, start increasing your memory OC with +50mhz at a time (I advise to test with Crysis 3, Metro LL) when it starts to give you artifacts back down 50mhz and you got your MAX core with your MAX memory OC,
    Now i MUST emphasize that if you're on a single monitor you wont see much improvement in FPS and it might impair your core clock speeds as it will crash your card and you might blame your core when its the memory crashing your card! IF you have a 4K monitor or multi monitor then yes you will see an improvement in smoothness rather increase in FPS, so, OC your core first and after your memory!

    What?!?!? Its not enough?!?!? You want more? Ok! thumb.gif
    But you have to get wet...

    ON WATER- Now that you have your brand new EK waterblock (I dont have to tell you its the best to cool your card´s VRM´s right? biggrin.gif ) installed and ready to rumble,
    Crank that voltage to 1,300v, (remember its +0.025v landing you on the 1,330v area) set your core clock to 1200mhz, leave your memory at +0 and test it (Again FAR CRY 3 and METRO LL or 3DMARK11) increase core clocks until you start having crashes! AGAIN REMEMBER IT IS STABLE FOR YOU WHEN IT DOESNT CRASH IN YOUR GAME/BENCH, keep the temperature prioritized as your card´s under water and you have no temperature worries so with that free the power draw!
    NOW lets talk a little about PT as it will become a challenge to understand it as it varies from card to card due each chip´s design;
    You might have shutdowns because you set your PT too high! when you set your PT to the MAX and give enough voltage and clocks to the card you will have spikes in the current (Amperage) and your PSU if its not Single Rail it will EXCEED the 25/30A most Multi rail PSU´s have on the 12v PCIe and trip your PSU OCP (Over Current Protection)
    IMO you only should increase your PT if you are seeing throttling clocks and hitting 100% PT!
    Now go for the memory OC, same applies as above IMO you should not care much about memory unless you bench or have 4K or multi monitors!

    Wait.. What? still not enough?!?!!?!? Woah! You´re tough as nails and have steel balls! alright then: thumb.gif

    OVER THE BOARD: tongue.gif
    Get the Zawarudos tool: ZAWARUDOV3 AfterBurner15/16


    Enter your voltage as a 4 digit number

    Remember that actual voltages are always 0.025v higher due to the LLC mod being enabled:

    1400 = 1425 which is 1.425v due to LLC

    After you've clicked the apply button and you're sure your volts are correct head over to your Afterburner program:

    Then all you need to do is move your power target down one then back up one to make the apply button click-able.
    Then just click the apply button and monitor the change using Afterburners graphs to verify it's worked.

    Now you have your own personal nuclear plant in your own house!

    Cheers all


    (Skyn3t Team)


    <div style="text-align&#58;center;"><img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif" title="Post Flame Small" /><a href="showthread.php?s=bd8d1313c09af4210eda3f9b5ad8a046&t=1363440" title="Overclock.net - Overclocking.net - Thread 1363440"> Nvidia GeForce GTX TITAN Owners' club </a><img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif" title="Post Flame Small" /></div>

cookiesowns 02-22-2013 03:12 AM


Just kidding. Posting for later.

Skorpian 02-22-2013 03:34 AM

Alatar, you actually got a GTX titan this early biggrin.gif?

Alatar 02-22-2013 03:41 AM

Originally Posted by Skorpian View Post

Alatar, you actually got a GTX titan this early biggrin.gif?

I ordered mine about 3 minutes after the NDA was lifted but I don't physically have the card yet tongue.gif

Just making a club thread so the owners can talk about the card without needing to shift trough pages upon pages of price discussions...

mcg75 02-22-2013 03:41 AM

I got an early pre-order in at ncix. Hopefully early enough for the first batch.

I also noticed ncix had a Titan listed from Zotac. I thought it was only evga and asus in North America.

Look forward to comparing it to my 7970 ghz.

Falknir 02-22-2013 04:14 AM

Will be joining the club whenever my card arrives. thumb.gif

Skorpian 02-22-2013 04:22 AM

Originally Posted by mcg75 View Post

I got an early pre-order in at ncix. Hopefully early enough for the first batch.

I also noticed ncix had a Titan listed from Zotac. I thought it was only evga and asus in North America.

Look forward to comparing it to my 7970 ghz.
According to the benchs I saw, its price difference from the 7970 GHz doesn't justify its cost, 7970 GHz in crossfire should demolish a single titan, and it's around 900$ give or take.

MaxxOmega 02-22-2013 04:31 AM

Originally Posted by Skorpian View Post

According to the benchs I saw, its price difference from the 7970 GHz doesn't justify its cost, 7970 GHz in crossfire should demolish a single titan, and it's around 900$ give or take.
I used to luv ATI/AMD Video Products. But that was then, this is now. I'll never own another one unless the problems they always seem to have get fixed...madsmiley.png
Which is crummy because side by side in identical Rigs except for video and using Identical Monitors, the AMD card "clearly" looked better...

DimmyK 02-22-2013 04:41 AM

Count me in. 1 asus on pre-order.

carlhil2 02-22-2013 04:42 AM

http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/geforce_gtx_titan_overclock_guide,1.html Don't know if guys saw this article, overclocked Titan almost even with GTX 690 in the 8 games tested.

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