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EGC 03-16-2019 07:59 PM

8350 FX + MSI 970 Gaming Mobo OC
 
Been trying to get my overclock to 4.8ghz (if it is feasible). Going literally any amount over 4.4ghz will become unstable. I'm trying to utilize North Bridge alongside the main voltages/threads etc. I changed only the threads as to avoid a CMOS reset with NB, as my slow mode seems to have stopped working. It changes the voltage, but it doesn't seem to change the speed anymore.

With literally just the settings changed to 200/22, I can set the voltage to +0.07 and it will run fully stable. If I add even 50mhz, I can't stabilize it seemingly no matter what I do. I've doubled the voltage on the CPU, added voltage to the RAM and NB and it always seems to fail on prime95 on at least one core within 0-2 minutes. I can't figure out why it won't let me go any further.

I've only started with the threads/bus so I can figure out if that is what is failing, which it is, so I moved onto NB and it just won't change. +0.07 is equally as stable as +0.12 with NB and RAM voltage added. The only thing I can think of is it's my motherboard and I can't find an answer for that.

EDIT: Maybe I was doing something wrong at the time, not sure, but it seems to be getting MORE stable... Not much. It seems I have to add a hell of a lot into my voltage just to get any sort of stability. My CPU Voltage is +0.13, NB (don't know which is which atm) +0.03, RAM 1.6v, up from 1.5v and the other NB is 1.150v atm. Without the latter 3 settings, prime drops at 3 mins. Adding ALL that, let it last for 4 minutes. It's just wild that I need to add that much for 4.5mhz vs ONLY +0.07v for the CPU for 4.4mhz.

The Pook 03-16-2019 08:00 PM

VRM temps?

EGC 03-16-2019 08:40 PM

My temps are higher than most people recommend, but going at 4.4ghz, it runs around 69 under full load (+0.07v). In my old case, going at 4.1mhz was barely possible. The temps reach up to 78c and was stable. Now I can't get it stable running at 72c if I go above 4.4ghz.

EDIT: Got a stable 4.5ghz but my computer can't keep it cool enough to run under load. Problem is, I had to go all the way to +0.15v to get it to stabilize. Why do I have to add that much power when 400mhz added only requires +0.07v?

mattliston 03-16-2019 10:10 PM

pook asked VRM temps.


the various MSI 970 boards were not known for good VRM temps. a small fan sitting on top the GPU generally is a good solution.




FX 8 core chips DEMAND good VRMs, and keeping them in check is the best way to achieve good clocks.


An old 970 G43 board I gave to a friend needed the VRMs to stay under 60*C just to properly overclock a 1035T, a MUCH less demanding chip!

EGC 03-16-2019 10:30 PM

Didn't realize they were different. Still in the learning process of everything. I know quite a bit, but there are a lot of obscure things I don't know and even things that aren't obscure, the stuff I've watched or read hasn't really touched down on it. Looking for a way to monitor it that doesn't involve command center (it basically breaks my computer to run it).

The Pook 03-16-2019 10:37 PM

If it has a sensor you can see it with HWInfo.

EGC 03-16-2019 11:05 PM

There seems to be 3 different temps on here. Sitting here with just my browser open on 4.4ghz with the only voltage change is +0.07v on the CPU:

47/57/37

Not sure where the 3rd temp is coming from as I only see 2 heatsinks on this motherboard, so it's kind of weird. These are the highest temps I seen under load. Only wait 5 minutes and see if it keeps going up from there.

66/88/42

I'm assuming the middle temp is the NB temp. It's right between my CPU heatsink and the top of my GPU in the first PCIE slot. This case is a pain in the ass, but I'm thinking of moving it down to the second slot since it runs at the same speed. So chances are, with both of them right next to the NB heatsink, this thing is probably not getting a break. I also read putting a fan on top of the GPU to hit that NB heatsink would solve a lot of the heat issues. Would I have to put it as an exhaust or an intake if that's the case?

EDIT: Put a fan directly at the one I believe to be the NB heatsink, dead center on the mobo. Definitely wasn't the middle temp.

59/87/39

Under full load as an intake (taking air from my front fans and blowing it closer to the heatsink). Going to try as an exhaust and then move it to the other heatsink. I think the third one is possibly under the GPU actually. It has the MSI dragon logo on it. EDIT: Tried putting the fan next to the GPU shooting under it.

66/87/39

So clearly, there's nothing down there to hit.

EDIT: Ran this at 4.5 ghz with +0.14v on the CPU only. Highest temp on VRM was 99, it shut down after almost 15 mins of prime at around 96 VRM and 77 on the CPU, with the added fan.

EGC 03-17-2019 12:38 AM

Just decided to change my NB voltage, Mhz and RAM voltage. Going to look into it, but in CPU-Z and in CAM, it's saying that nothing has changed. The RAM v is 1.5 at default, I bumped it to 1.6 but it's only showing as 1.5. My NB mhz is being shown as 2200, the default setting. Not really sure what's going on, that could be my issue.

mattliston 03-17-2019 01:47 AM

what NB voltage are you touching?


chipset NB voltage is 1.1 volts default, and usually only needs the occasional bump to around 1.15 when having northbridge above 2600mhz AND fast ram (2400mhz ram and above). Even then, some motherboards do well without a bump here.


CPU-NB is the actual northbridge/memory controller voltage. THIS should be around 1.15 to 1.25 volts default, depending on if motherboard set it to 2000, 2200, or 2400mhz at default.


This can stay under 1.3 volts if under 2600mhz northbridge. Generally, you can set it to 1.3 volts and forget it. AUTO voltages will sometimes make this voltage skyrocket to dangerous levels if you selevt 2600mhz or higher northbridge speeds.


NB-HT, or may be called simply HT Link voltage, can stay at default 1.2 volts, or increase to 1.3 if pushing base clock FAR above the default 200mhz, such as 300.




That 88*C number is most liekly your VRM's. Set the fan to blow air covering the area that lies between the rear IO panel and CPU socket.


If the fan blowing over that area drops that temp, you foudn the VRM's and also found out why your overclocks are going sour.


A lower temp for VRM's also potentially reduces CPU socket temps slightly, and it sounds from your posts like thermals are the biggest issue right now for stability.

EGC 03-17-2019 02:51 AM

So, I think the NB CPU is defaulted at 1.2v and the NB v is probably 1.1v, can't really say because I'm pretty positive it doesn't say. Anyway, I changed some fans around. So instead of having 3 exhaust and 3 intake, I made the middle top an intake and moved it as close to the front as possible and the top exhaust to the back as far as possible. I connected a 7th fan outside of the case on the back, so double fans which blows out a lot more air. I tested again. My general temps at load is around 1-2c (EDIT: actually hasn't changed) hotter on my CPU but my motherboard is easier to cool.

Can't say it's cooler then before because the computer shut down after a few mins of testing (a lot longer before) and crashed at around 84c, instead of closer to 97c like before. It could be the Smart Protection doing it, not sure. The fact that it shut down at over 10c lower and my CPU was running a tad hotter, tells me the computer panicked or something. So I'm going to try again without the smart protection. I'm quite sure I won't be getting stable over 4.4ghz, but even with 5 intakes instead of 4, my computer temps were WAY less unstable. Did a test at 4.4ghz and my temps gradually increased, rather then going from say 30c and jumping to 50-55c.


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