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-   -   Want to delidd my 3770k (https://www.overclock.net/forum/63-other-cooling-discussions/1729790-want-delidd-my-3770k.html)

b0uncyfr0 07-19-2019 01:29 AM

Want to delidd my 3770k
 
I've got a pretty good 3770k. Its currently running at 4.6Ghz around 1.23v. With my D14 - it doesn't really go past 63 in gaming but stress testing is another thing. Ive noticed going to 4.7Ghz will requires alot more voltage as around 1.3v it still isnt stable. Around this voltage - it can hit the high 80's when stressing.

Frankly, I just wanna push the sucker as close to 5 Ghz as possible to remove those pesky low frames with my 1070. Im not gonna sell the rig so i might as well squeeze everything i can from it. Questions:

- Liquid metal or NT-H1...Which liquid should I get?
- How can i seal it back up? Since the D14 is sitting on top - is it really necessary?
- Is it worth it?

Cheers

Shawnb99 07-19-2019 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b0uncyfr0 (Post 28050370)
I've got a pretty good 3770k. Its currently running at 4.6Ghz around 1.23v. With my D14 - it doesn't really go past 63 in gaming but stress testing is another thing. Ive noticed going to 4.7Ghz will requires alot more voltage as around 1.3v it still isnt stable. Around this voltage - it can hit the high 80's when stressing.



Frankly, I just wanna push the sucker as close to 5 Ghz as possible to remove those pesky low frames with my 1070. Im not gonna sell the rig so i might as well squeeze everything i can from it. Questions:



- Liquid metal or NT-H1...Which liquid should I get?

- How can i seal it back up? Since the D14 is sitting on top - is it really necessary?

- Is it worth it?



Cheers



Liquid metal, use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut
You can use Superglue to seal it back up, or you can get a direct die kit.
Yes it’s worth it.
Check out Rockit cool for their kits and what’s involved

b0uncyfr0 07-19-2019 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawnb99 (Post 28050418)
Liquid metal, use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut
You can use Superglue to seal it back up, or you can get a direct die kit.
Yes it’s worth it.
Check out Rockit cool for their kits and what’s involved

Nice, thanks. Is it generally a good idea to use LM on the D14 or just stick to NT-H1?

deepor 07-19-2019 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b0uncyfr0 (Post 28050612)
Nice, thanks. Is it generally a good idea to use LM on the D14 of just stick to NT-H1?


I was unhappy with using liquid metal between my i5-3570k CPU and my NH-D14. The liquid metal will turn hard over time, and then you will not be able to fully remove it anymore. There will be small clumps of dark material fused to the base of the cooler. You will have to use sandpaper to get the base of the cooler smooth again.

The liquid metal hardens over time because certain components of it start moving into the copper of the NH-D14. I guess it's the "gallium" metal part of the liquid metal. When you then polish the base of the cooler with sandpaper, you will remove the nickel plating from the base and will see the red color from the copper that's underneath the nickel plating. In the middle of the cooler's base, the copper will have a silver instead of a red color. That's because in that area it will be a sort of alloy of copper and gallium.

A very annoying thing that happened here for me was, because the liquid metal had turned hard, there were flakes of metal flying around the motherboard after I removed the NH-D14. One of those flakes managed to get into the CPU socket. I noticed this because one memory channel stopped working after I had reassembled the PC. I had to try to fish out that metal flake from between the socket pins without destroying the pins. That was pretty annoying. :P

Another thing I noticed, the liquid metal between CPU and cooler did not age better than thermal paste. After several years, when the liquid metal was fully hardened, the temperatures were noticeably worse than in the beginning.

This whole experience was a bit sad and I would recommend against using liquid metal between CPU and cooler.

b0uncyfr0 07-24-2019 01:12 AM

Cheers @deepor - I will definitely use NT-H1 between the chip and D14. Everything has been ordered and shipped. I will post results after its complete :)

jimmyhackers 07-24-2019 12:18 PM

i have a 3770k. after a delid and a liquid metal apply i got about 15-20 degrees C drop in tempretures...

i didnt bother reglueing the heat spreader back on...just let the socket on my z77 sabertooth mobo hold it there....

i am still using regular thermal paste between the cpu heatspreader and my cpu water block though....not sure how much more difference that would make.....



for note though.......i didnt really get the thing to overclock any higher afterwards :( it just ran cooler.....which is alway a bonus.

BroadPwns 07-24-2019 12:21 PM

I'd use liquid metal between IHS and a cooler foot but I've got both of them lapped and sanding the blacked copper for selling purpose is a HUGE PITA... Already had to do it with 4690k.

b0uncyfr0 07-25-2019 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyhackers (Post 28058108)

for note though.......i didnt really get the thing to overclock any higher afterwards :( it just ran cooler.....which is alway a bonus.

What was the highest you could do and at what voltage?

Imprezzion 07-25-2019 06:56 AM

I am a big fan of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra as a LM TIM.
Not that Conductonaut is bad but I prefer CLU.

Delidding is simple as can be with 3xxx 4xxx, 6xxx and 7xxx CPU's. I never even bothered buying a delid tool and just used the vice method with a block of wood and a towel to catch the PCB. Worked just fine and never damaged any CPU so far.

I didn't glue my IHS's back on either. Socket retention bracket will hold it just fine. Just be careful when closing the retention mechanism that the IHS doesn't shift when closing it. Don't forget to fully remove the black sealant from both the IHS and the PCB with a bank card or something similar. A knife will work but be careful not to hit the PCB.

For reference sake: I ran a 3770K @ 4.95Ghz 1.448v under a H100i and it stress loaded around 75-80c and games 60-65c ran for years like that, CLU never deteriorated.

b0uncyfr0 08-16-2019 11:45 AM

Results are in, I just run P95 for around an hour before and after:

Before delid:

1.32v at 4.7Ghz : 76-79 for Core 1 and 2. Core 3 and 4 are around 79-83.

After delid:

1.32v at 4.7Ghz - 62-66 for Core 1 and Core 2. Core 3 and 4 are around 67-71. Last I remember, this unevenness is quite normal for 3770k's?

Its looking pretty good and i have to admit I'm impressed. I should done this wayy sooner. I think I have some headroom for possibly 4.9Ghz!

I am still worried about the voltage - what should be my cut off point at this rate? 1.35v seems pretty safe but would approaching 1.4v under 90 degree's be alright?


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