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Hey guys, I figured I would share a quick "tool" I made to easily power my water cooling pump from wall power since I'd imagine others would like the idea.

I recently dove into custom watercooling, and it became apparent that powering just the pump through the PSU was a hassle. It's a pain to disconnect everything in the PC, plugging in the jumper into the 24pin, etc. Something that I ran into as well is my HX750 doesn't like to be turned on momentarily and then back off again. It didn't like turning back on after that, so I would have to unplug power into the PSU, wait awhile, and then repeat the cycle.
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So I went to Amazon and ordered a 60W, 12V power adapter used for LEDs for $9, a LED strip on/off switch for $3/ea, and some 4 pin PWM entension cables for $1.5/ea. The power adapter and on/off switch plug in like normal, and I just cut the 4 pin fan cable and end of the switch, soldered together, and it's done. So now I can easily power my pump with an on/off switch without unplugging anything else in the PC.
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I might have been able to get away with a 24W (2A) adapter for a little cheaper, but at least I know 60W will always be enough. I think it will be worth the overall $14 cost!



As a bonus, you can use it power a PC fan on your desk to cool you off in the summer!
 
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I honestly wouldn't try to pull all 24 watts out of a 2amp power supply, but that might just be me.
I'd look into getting a 60w one, they are still under $20USD

Since I'm currently looking into running the rad(fans)+pump externally, i plan on buying a small weird(maybe a 2U psu or an SFX psu) and have it turn on/off with the system. Via the spliced sense wires.
 

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New001
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Nice one OP, that is handy indeed! So far each time i've pulled my loop apart, i've pulled everything apart to do thorough cleaning etc, but i can see one day I will need sometihng like this. As you said, in a tight build it can be a pain to remove the atx and cpu power, along with unplugging everything else in the system!
 

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I use one of these too, it's great for leak testing your loop. I got mine with an external CD drive enclosure.
 

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Old and Decrepit
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300 watt I yanked from a vintage dell and put a 50 cent switch across the pins to start it. Cut all the rest of the leads off and just left a single 12V molex hanging.
What ever works, OPs idea is great too. I also find it easier to use something other than the PSU you will be using in your build while filling and leak testing.
 
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