[trogalicious]

Hi all.

I'm moving my sig rig into a HAF932 from the CM690, and I'm looking to do a few upgrades, cooling being a big one. The V8 has worked fine for me, but the more I think about it, the more I want to get away from air cooling.

So, that said... I've been digging around online looking at parts. I understand the concepts behind watercooling, and have read some of the stickied threads, but I was hoping some of you could possible fill in the blanks.

First, I'll throw out what I've been able to piece together.. and let you guys dismantle it and tell me what's better than what I've picked out myself.

I'm looking at Dangerden/FrozenCPU:
X-Flow Stealth GTS 360 Black Ice Radiator (or...?)
Laing DD12V-D5 Pump (how would the MCP 355/655 compare)
DD-GTX285 Version 2 (or Swiftech Komodo?)
Heatkiller Rev 3 (once it's available again)
DD Rad-Reservoir (recommendations welcomed here...)
1/2" tubing + clamps + anything else I'm forgetting.

I may eventually grab a second 285SC for sli instead of falling into the fermi-induced-hardware-coma that has claimed a good number of victims... so I'd rather pick up something now that can hopefully cool the CPU and possibly 2 GPU's.

Now, proceed to dismantle and destroy my noobish list.

 

[merple]

Is there a reason why you went with that rad?
You have plenty of space in that case so go with pa120.3/Black Ice GTX/XSPC RX

Laing D5 is the same as 655.
General consensus is that the 355 has better head pressure and 655 higher flow rate.

Make sure to double check if that block is compatible with your graphics card.

Get either the copper or LT version of the heatkiller.
If there is stock and you don't want to wait around for the HK then have a look at the Swiftech XT or EK Supreme HF

res, tubing and fittings is up to you really.

 

[trogalicious]

Quote:

Originally Posted by merple Is there a reason why you went with that rad? You have plenty of space in that case so go with pa120.3/Black Ice GTX/XSPC RX Laing D5 is the same as 655. General consensus is that the 355 has better head pressure and 655 higher flow rate. Make sure to double check if that block is compatible with your graphics card. Get either the copper or LT version of the heatkiller. If there is stock and you don't want to wait around for the HK then have a look at the Swiftech XT or EK Supreme HF res, tubing and fittings is up to you really.

There's no real reason for that particular res. I'm a watercooling noob. I understand the concepts, but as far as brand reputation, I was picking what I've read about on here. I'd like everything ideally to be internal on the HAF.

I read up on the block for the GPU, and it it supposed to fit the evga 285SC.. unless I missed something. Thanks for the reply +rep

 

[trogalicious]

Alright, so I'm looking around again and think I may go with the Swiftech XT, MCR320, and MCP655.. unless the heatkiller is that much better than the apogee XT.

 

[merple]

The XT gets slightly better temps than the HK so you are fine there.

Heres a useful rad roundup at different fan speeds.
Down at the bottom for i7+SLI loop.

 

[trogalicious]

Quote:

Originally Posted by merple The XT gets slightly better temps than the HK so you are fine there. Heres a useful rad roundup at different fan speeds. Down at the bottom for i7+SLI loop.

Thanks again for the help, it's so odd looking at water... everything is foreign to me, so I'm full of repetitive questions. It'll pass, I hope.

 

[Mikecdm]

That'll work for an inexpensive loop. It's pretty much how mine started out except that I had a GTZ instead of the XT.

As for the gpu block, I'll say it once more. Double/triple check that it fits your revision of the 285. There are to different pcb and as a result, two different blocks. You might already know this, but just wanted it to be clear before you order.

 

[trogalicious]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikecdm That'll work for an inexpensive loop. It's pretty much how mine started out except that I had a GTZ instead of the XT. As for the gpu block, I'll say it once more. Double/triple check that it fits your revision of the 285. There are to different pcb and as a result, two different blocks. You might already know this, but just wanted it to be clear before you order.

no doubt, I've checked the serial number on the PCB itself and I'm golden.

That being said, if I wanted to upgrade to a middle-of-the-road loop, what would be replaced? Different res? blocks? I know I saw few limited edition heatkillers out there, both for the 1366 and one for the 285. Aside from that, I'm assuming a step up would be going XSPC or p120.3? I'd much rather make fewer purchases and get higher quality stuff than to buy-in lower just to replace it.

I took a look at the skinnee labs (OT: great hip hop rock band back from NY named 2 skinnee j's) link and it did show that all rads performed very well, it was dependent upon the fans that were hooked up. I already have a handful of medium speed yates around that I could use.

 

[Sergilicious]

You're making me want to finally do this too...

 

[Mikecdm]

Quote:

Originally Posted by trogalicious That being said, if I wanted to upgrade to a middle-of-the-road loop, what would be replaced? Different res? blocks? I know I saw few limited edition heatkillers out there, both for the 1366 and one for the 285. Aside from that, I'm assuming a step up would be going XSPC or p120.3? I'd much rather make fewer purchases and get higher quality stuff than to buy-in lower just to replace it.

I mentioned inexpensive because the swiftech rads are just that. They are a great value and still perform well. They also work well when space is a concern. Based on the lab results, I really can't see how other low cfm fans can really be that much better. Yes they are thicker and dual pass, but how much better can they be and then take into account that they are over twice as much.

Swapping out the rad is really all that it would take so that it will no longer be an inexpensive loop. Then dressing it up will add to the cost. Buying compression fittings, tops for the pump, fancy tubing, better fans, etc...

Going from $3 yates to $15 gentle tyhpoons will raise the cost up significantly. $3 tygon/feser/priomochill tubing is a lot more than the $0.50 masterkleer.

But over time, it seems that you will eventually want to make your loop prettier or better.

 

[grossebeaver]

You'll want to pick up a silver kill coil, or silver plated fittings to prevent microbial growth in your loop. The DD- Rad reservoir works well and looks pretty sweet. However it may be hard to fill if you have it mounted internally.

Any consideration given to shrouds for the fan/rad, and possibly a fan controller for added flexibility.

 

[trogalicious]

Quote:

Originally Posted by grossebeaver You'll want to pick up a silver kill coil, or silver plated fittings to prevent microbial growth in your loop. The DD- Rad reservoir works well and looks pretty sweet. However it may be hard to fill if you have it mounted internally. Any consideration given to shrouds for the fan/rad, and possibly a fan controller for added flexibility.

already have a rheobus and a rheobus extreme for this

 

[MacG32]

You can get a ready made kit here. I think it's easier to start with a good complete kit. The Komodo is cheaper here. I would suggest tubing like this, because it can make tight bends and already comes reinforced. No need to buy tubing wrap or kink coils. As for clamps, I would suggest the plastic type.

Edit: And to save money, plastic 1/2" barbs work just as good as any others.

Edit 2: CrazyPC has the kit in stock here.

 

[trogalicious]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sergilicious You're making me want to finally do this too...

Jump in the boat, you stalker you.