[Asmodian]

I finally got a chance to test some other shunts on my FE 2080 Ti.

When using 5 mOhm resistors, as I did on my Titan X (Pascal), the 2080 Ti goes into emergency mode with a lot of loads (stuck at 300 MHz). My first try adding a shunt above 5 mOhms, 8 mOhms, did not trigger the cards safety mode. I used Panasonic ERJ-M1WSF8M0U current sense resistors, which match the original resistors on the card.

This is not bad, 1/5 + 1/8 = 1/3.077, for a final power limit of 1.625 * 260 = 422.5 watts (520W at 123%).
Edit: My Kill A Watt's reported power draw tracks well with what hwinfo reports for power use (x1.625) so I believe my mod worked as expected and I can use hwinfo to get a fairly accurate value for the card's powder draw.

Sadly my card doesn't OC that well, 2115 MHz core and 8100 MHz memory, but no throttling is nice.
Superposition 1080p Extreme: 10310
Superposition 8K Optimized: 6033
Time Spy Graphics Score: 16395
Time Spy Extreme Graphics Score: 7768
Port Royal: 9215

 

[TobbbeSWE]

I finally got a chance to test some other shunts on my FE 2080 Ti.

When using 5 mOhm resistors, as I did on my Titan X (Pascal), the 2080 Ti goes into emergency mode with a lot of loads (stuck at 300 MHz). My first try adding a shunt above 5 mOhms, 8 mOhms, did not trigger the cards safety mode.

This is not bad, 1/5 + 1/8 = 1/3.077, for a final power limit of 1.625 * 260 = 422.5 watts (520W at 123%).

Sadly my card doesn't OC that well, 2070 MHz core and 2000 MHz memory, but no throttling is nice.
Time Spy Graphics Score: 16017

Nice work! My card is a PALIT 2080Ti DUAL with a Non-A GPU with 112% bios. What will a shunt mod give me in Powerlimit? And did you do it on a Referens design PCB?

Would a resistor like this be usable? I have alot over from my old days fiddeling with 780Ti Volt modding.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1500pcs-1-...h=item4b499da5be:g:SLIAAOSw-xNbWDUf:rk:1:pf:0

 

[Asmodian]

Nice work! My card is a PALIT 2080Ti DUAL with a Non-A GPU with 112% bios. What will a shunt mod give me in Powerlimit? And did you do it on a Referens design PCB?

Thanks

Yes, this is the reference PCB, it is a Founder Edition GPU. If you also use 8 mOhm resistors you would get 280 * 1.625 = 455W

Would a resistor like this be usable? I have alot over from my old days fiddeling with 780Ti Volt modding.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1500pcs-1-...h=item4b499da5be:g:SLIAAOSw-xNbWDUf:rk:1:pf:0

Those resistors would not work, they are 1 - 10 ohm and we need 0.008 ohm resistors. They would also be harder to solder on.
I used these from mouser: ERJ-M1WSF8M0U

 

[TK421]

Does this really benefit you if not using sub ambient cooling?




I don't think the card hitting power limit will lose that much fps in real time scenario either.

 

[TobbbeSWE]

Thanks

Yes, this is the reference PCB, it is a Founder Edition GPU. If you also use 8 mOhm resistors you would get 280 * 1.625 = 455W



Those resistors would not work, they are 1 - 10 ohm and we need 0.008 ohm resistors. They would also be harder to solder on.
I used these from mouser: ERJ-M1WSF8M0U

Ok thanks!

How did this mod affect your max clock and Avg clocks overall?

Did you notice any negative things after the mod? Like abnormal amounts of power being pulled at the same clocks as before?
For that i guess you need something to measure before and after mod outside of the card because the "power" indicator in Precision X and GPUz will show the wrong value now i guess.
Or does it still work?

 

[Asmodian]

How did this mod affect your max clock and Avg clocks overall?

Did you notice any negative things after the mod? Like abnormal amounts of power being pulled at the same clocks as before?
For that i guess you need something to measure before and after mod outside of the card because the "power" indicator in Precision X and GPUz will show the wrong value now i guess.
Or does it still work?

This mod did change my average clocks, now they stay very stable at whatever overclock max is set. In practice I see 2070 MHz dropping to 2055 MHz when temps get near the max. 42°C is my normal max temp in madVR, which uses the most power of anything I have tested, it can even hit my power limit of 520W.

The power numbers in GPUz are 61.5% of the real draw, so when I see it using 264W it means it is actually using 429W.

The main negative, which is very significant, is that the performance increase is very small but the increase in power use is massive. Probably +50% the power use for <10% performance with some workloads. It absolutely requires high end water cooling to even be considered. It is impressive how much power Nvidia can save without hurting performance very much. To be honest I normally leave the power limit on 100% now, 422W max is already a bit high. Letting it use 520W gains very little if anything, as far as I can measure. I have seen it hit the power limit even when set to 520W too, with madVR using crazy settings playing 1080p60 at 4K. It also triggered the thermal throttling flag when seeking even though the GPU was at 39°C, that indicates to me that some small part of the GPU got way too hot for comfort and it is probably better to say at or below ~400W unless on LN2 or something. :devil:

With the same workload and clocks power use is identical, GPUz reports 1/1.625 (61.5%) the power draw, but running the same workload at 1870 MHz v.s. 2070 MHz increases power/heat by way more than 10%.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.

 

[The Pook]

Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.

Desolder/solder sucker.

 

[pewpewlazer]

Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.

You suck it up and eat the cost? Soldering resistors onto your video card to bypass the manufacturers over current protection kind-of sort-of absolute-definitely voids your warranty, and you need to accept that fact when you pick up the soldering iron.

 

[white owl]

You suck it up and eat the cost? Soldering resistors onto your video card to bypass the manufacturers over current protection kind-of sort-of absolute-definitely voids your warranty, and you need to accept that fact when you pick up the soldering iron.

Or you can just do a good job soldering then de-solder it later. I've never done it for warranty purposes but I have added things that I intended on removing so instead of letting it really run in by getting the components hot I'd just melt the solder with the gun with the components touching. It's not as strong this way but it can easily be removed if you heat it up upside down. Even if you didn't cold-ball it you could probably make your solder run in with the existing solder without being noticed.

I'd really like to do this to my 1080 but it's a PITA to tear it down...the cooler gets wedged in a weird way. After my custom BIOS on the 1080 I kinda forgot all about TDP throttling. It's really annoying in games because you can see the clock fluctuate with the frame times.

 

[matthiaserlewei]

Nice to hear, but you could just have used the modded NVflash to flash the 380W KFA2/Galax Firmware to the FE Card. Getting stable 2160MHz with it and only reaching the power limit extreamly rare.
Saadly my card still doesnt get close to the Performance of my Titan V

I finally got a chance to test some other shunts on my FE 2080 Ti.

When using 5 mOhm resistors, as I did on my Titan X (Pascal), the 2080 Ti goes into emergency mode with a lot of loads (stuck at 300 MHz). My first try adding a shunt above 5 mOhms, 8 mOhms, did not trigger the cards safety mode.

This is not bad, 1/5 + 1/8 = 1/3.077, for a final power limit of 1.625 * 260 = 422.5 watts (520W at 123%).

Sadly my card doesn't OC that well, 2070 MHz core and 2000 MHz memory, but no throttling is nice.
Time Spy Graphics Score: 16017

Gesendet von meinem H8166 mit Tapatalk

 

[Asmodian]

Nice to hear, but you could just have used the modded NVflash to flash the 380W KFA2/Galax Firmware to the FE Card.

I would probably have done that if the modded NVFlash was available when I first took a soldering iron to it. I do have the stock bios with an even higher power limit now though, and I can hit it. Though the difference in performance between 380W and 450W is probably negligible. I don't expect too many people to do this mod but it might be helpful for those using more extreme cooling.

I have seen it say 271W in hwinfo, which should be about 440W. With the system idle, it pulls 205W (GPU probably pulling 30W) and with madVR playing it pulls 620W. madVR uses very little CPU with these settings so I think all the change in power is the GPU, for ~445W total GPU power draw. With madVR at these settings I do see the power limit trigger sometimes when at 100% but not when at 123%.

 

[Asmodian]

You suck it up and eat the cost? Soldering resistors onto your video card to bypass the manufacturers over current protection kind-of sort-of absolute-definitely voids your warranty, and you need to accept that fact when you pick up the soldering iron.

+virtual rep

 

[Lashmush]

I have a Palit 2080 Ti Dual and am looking into this option. I've soldered small components before so precisionwise I should be good but just to be safe I thought I'd ask about getting the right kind of soldering iron (one that lends itself well to this kind of work, the right size and heat) and any other equipment to get this done right. Also, I assume I will be needing 2x 8 milli-Ohm resistors for this so if there are certain ones that are better than others for this I'll go for them to make sure this works properly. Do I use 60/40 or leadfree or some other option for soldering it?

Oh, and could you just as a reference show exactly where those resistors are on the PCB?

Just out of curiosity, will the raised power limit reduce the lifetime of the card in any way?

 

[JackCY]

Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.

With clean soldering it's not hard to clean up a mess done previously from adding a resistor on top. Sure for many people soldering well and clean is a difficult task and something they do not care about one bit, hence those jobs have been moved to Asia.
What's the difference between factory hand soldered and home hand soldered? None. Even with reflow PCB as these GPUs are you can hand solder it clean or use a hand held hot air station and soldering paste, it will look exactly as reflow. Sure if you're lazy and add a ton off solder and make a huge ugly blob while all other PCB solder points are nice and clean, yeah it's obvious then that someone has been messing with stuff.

 

[littledonny]

Hi,
So if your card fries how do you remove evidence of the solder you added to the original shunts.

Trash post

 

[Asmodian]

I have a Palit 2080 Ti Dual and am looking into this option. I've soldered small components before so precisionwise I should be good but just to be safe I thought I'd ask about getting the right kind of soldering iron (one that lends itself well to this kind of work, the right size and heat) and any other equipment to get this done right. Also, I assume I will be needing 2x 8 milli-Ohm resistors for this so if there are certain ones that are better than others for this I'll go for them to make sure this works properly. Do I use 60/40 or leadfree or some other option for soldering it?

Oh, and could you just as a reference show exactly where those resistors are on the PCB?

Just out of curiosity, will the raised power limit reduce the lifetime of the card in any way?

I used a very cheap soldering iron with a small flat tip and the mystery solder it came with. It needs to get hot enough to melt the solder under the top resistor, which is pretty hot. It has a knob to adjust temps but no reference to know what it is set to, I had to turn it up almost all the way. I should have taken it to work, I probably would have done a much cleaner soldering job.

These are actually pretty big surface mount resistors so it isn't too small of a job. I did link the resistors I used in the original post, they match the shunts used on the card originally too (except being the 8 mOhm version).
Edit: oops, no I didn't.
I did a few posts down but they are Panasonic ERJ-M1WSF8M0U current sense resistors.
More details on how I did the soldering in my Titan X (Pascal) Shunt Mod thread.

The power limit will only reduce the life of the card if you also over-volt it and/or run it really hot. I edit the voltage curve to keep it at or below 1025mV and water cool it so I don't expect unlimited power to lower the life. However, we don't have any historical data, of course.

I have highlighted the resistors:

 

[ThrashZone]

Trash post

Hi,
Hardly just inquiring for any tricks looks like I found a troll instead :doh:

With clean soldering it's not hard to clean up a mess done previously from adding a resistor on top. Sure for many people soldering well and clean is a difficult task and something they do not care about one bit, hence those jobs have been moved to Asia.
What's the difference between factory hand soldered and home hand soldered? None. Even with reflow PCB as these GPUs are you can hand solder it clean or use a hand held hot air station and soldering paste, it will look exactly as reflow. Sure if you're lazy and add a ton off solder and make a huge ugly blob while all other PCB solder points are nice and clean, yeah it's obvious then that someone has been messing with stuff.

Hi,
Thanks for the info soldering paste interesting can you link to this item :thumb:

 

[Lashmush]

Overvolting the RTX cards requires hardware modification of some sort though, right? I was under the impression that for instance the slider in Afterburner didn't actually do anything due to these cards having some sort of limitation put in place.

 

[Lashmush]

Oh yeah, can I use nailpolish as a safetyprecaution for the stuff around the resistor in the first picture? It seems to have quite a few other bits of solder that probably shouldn't be touched around it and I don't want any to leak onto them, you know?