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Discussion Starter #1
I did a OS reinstall (since my win10 was kinda full of crap). In the past i usually do a secure erase on the SSD before i install the OS. I did on samsung's SSD too. Using their DOS tool.

After reading the help area of magician software on how to "install" the font for the DOS tool, when i clicked "yes" to secure erase the SSD, i had a message that the SSD is in a frozen state. I know the "issue" with frozen state, because i had the exact same problem on my older intel 520's, there i've put my PC on sleep mode, and then i've detached the SATA DATA CABLES ONLY, from the SSD's, then i've resumed the PC from sleep mode, and i secure erased the ssd's just nice (using intel's toolbox).

Here on samsung i have the same thing - frozen state. The samsung DOS tool told how to do it. Said like this: Disconnect the SATA power cables. What means SATA power cableS (with big S, because it refers on two things).

First i've disconnected only the SATA DATA CABLE, and connected it again after a couple of seconds, reloaded the DOS tool, and had the same frozen state. Then i've disconnected BOTH, SATA data cable, and SATA power cable. Then it worked, i secure erased my SSD.

Question is: I did it right ? I mean there is no other way in secure erasing the SSD and not hitting the frozen stare warning , and not basically disconnect the SSD from the cables ? Because doing this i saw that in the SMART attributes that it increased the Power recovery count, right now i have number 2. One is because i did a sleep mode on the SSD, and the other one is when i disconnected the SATA power cable when i did the secure erase.
 

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I have a question. Actually, it's more of a statement: why are you trying to do this? Secure erasing is absolutely unnecessary for this! It's a waste of time. Just format the drive during the setup portion of the Windows installation. Formatting does one thing: it replaces the Master File Table with a blank one in the format that was specified (that's why it's called "formatting"). The only time you should Secure Erase a drive is when you're selling it or giving it away, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, but after a long use on reading and writing lots of stuff, i think its kinda necessary a secure erase, resetting the nand to factory defaults.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalinTM View Post

Yeah, but after a long use on reading and writing lots of stuff, i think its kinda necessary a secure erase, resetting the nand to factory defaults.
It isn't.
 

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Hey, take it easy with that "gods" stuff. I'm just an unsophisticated dude who happens to know a couple of things. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One more thing. Should i leave superfetch and prefetch ON ? Im using windows 10.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also, today i've passed 500gb of data written according to samsung magician. And i already have 1 Wear Leveling Count. That means that i've just passed 1 P/E Cycle ? The data written is 0.66TB

This means that when i will pass again, 500gb written, it will shot number 2, and so on ?

So basically TLC nand has 1.000 P/E's ?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalinTM View Post

Also, today i've passed 500gb of data written according to samsung magician. And i already have 1 Wear Leveling Count. That means that i've just passed 1 P/E Cycle ? The data written is 0.66TB

This means that when i will pass again, 500gb written, it will shot number 2, and so on ?

So basically TLC nand has 1.000 P/E's ?
Did you read the article? You're very far from doing even a tiny bit of harm to your solid state drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I read it, i was wondering whats the P/E cycles.
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Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Did you read the article? You're very far from doing even a tiny bit of harm to your solid state drive.
Yep. Problem was that i had two intel 520 series, from 2012 to 2015 i've written almost 25tb on each, and i didnt had that SMART wear thingy, so i was curious how the SMART on samsung works.

Also, one more question. Played some rise of the tomb raider (my case airflow isnt that great, i mean i only attached one fan), according to hwinfo64, my SSD had 46 degrees. I put my hand on it, and its kinda warm.

Should be a problem ? These SSD's have a max temp optimal operation ?

EDIT: Oh, lately im such a lazy noob, saw the samsung tech sheet, according to them ways 0 - 70 °C Operating Temperature, but even at 47 degrees, can throttle down ? Cuz i saw those fancy 950 M.2 samsung's that can throttle down...
 

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No, that's normal.

I'm just going to say it: you are worrying way too much. You have nothing to worry about. It's breaking my heart that you're doing more worrying than enjoying when there's nothing at all to worry about. There's a HUGE amount of misinformation out there that SSDs are fragile, that's why I wanted you to see that harsh test on those solid state drives. It proves without a shadow of a doubt that we consumers can relax and just enjoy our solid state drives without babying them at all.
 

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2.5" SATA SSD's produce veeeeeery little to no heat by themselves. The reason its temperature was sitting at 47C was probably because the inside of your case was getting really toasty after running a game with poor airflow.

It won't throttle, don't worry. Even if it was running above safe temperatures, it wouldn't make any sense for it to throttle. Because it produces no heat.

If the SSD controller deemed operating temperatures to be too high, I would assume it just straight up shuts the SSD down to prevent damage.
I've never actually seen this happen, though, so this is pure speculation.

tl;dr: Don't worry, you're fine!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Until i understand how a new piece of toy works i tend to worry. After i dont give a heck. Like when i bought my 3770k, was worrying about the temps, now i dont care, i have almost 75/core in games, and the video card almost 80 degrees in load (doesn't throttle, im using a bios config).
 

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On a totally unrelated note:
If you only have one fan in your system, I would probably look into fixing that and adding some extra airflow, though.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leyaena View Post

On a totally unrelated note:
If you only have one fan in your system, I would probably look into fixing that and adding some extra airflow, though.
Uh yeah, THIS. This, this, this, this, this, this this.

Did I mention that I wholeheartedly agree and I strongly recommend that this advice should be followed?

Yeah. This.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, im a dust freak, like i can kill if i can see dust in rigs. That's why i use only one fan in the case, the back one, that blows out the air from the cpu cooler. No side fan to blow the hot air from the gpu, no front fan, no upper fan
smile.gif


Instead i've replaced the stock plexiglass from my case, with a total transparent one, and i've cut a kinda rectangle hole where the gpu is located, to help "pushing" some hot air outside, and not hear the noise, like when u have the side case door opened
smile.gif
haha no ?
smile.gif


http://i.imgur.com/XKecz19.jpg

Also, with the case opened, i can see 2-4 lower degrees on the GPU, but my msi gaming gpu has a tiny radiator and the fans turn at only 2300 rotations, so the implementation isn't that much for a decent OC
 

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Sigh. I'd rather have a little bit of dust instead of killing my components with high heat. Not wise. Sorry. Saying that you don't have any other fans except for a rear exhaust is nothing to be smiling about.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah, but its not killing anything. When my gpu dies from 80-82 degrees at 99% load, i will have another one (this time with proper cooling solution, like gigabyte's g1, or a msi lightning card if i can last that long until will be available). And im using fps cap in games, i tend to like playing at stable fps, so if i can maintain on hardcore games solid 65fps, with a max of 85-90% gpu usage, im fine with that, the gpu will never reach 99%, thus not overheating that much. Simple trick to OC and get better temps, and maintain the desired fps, cuz of oc-ing.
 
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