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Discussion Starter #1
Firstly, I know the case chokes hard, I'm going to cut open a giant hole on the front panel intake.
I'm wondering about fan configuration.
Which one would yield better temperatures overall, CPU & GPU?
Thanks.
 

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old? HAH
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i love my p400s, but yeah it does choke hard, im thinking b, mainly due to A, the top exaust+intake combo will just pull each others air, if that makes sence, as for me, im gonna be looking into a FD Meshify c TG
 

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Firstly, I know the case chokes hard, I'm going to cut open a giant hole on the front panel intake.
I'm wondering about fan configuration.
Which one would yield better temperatures overall, CPU & GPU?
Thanks.
I would try doing a vent in bottom with a magnetic mounting filter with something like PH-F140MP and 2x PH-F120MP front intakes (block all holes not covered by front fans so air fans are pushing into case cannot leak back into the space between case front and fan mounting plate), remove all PCIe slot covers with not top fans at all and monitor the air temp going into GPU and CPU cooler fans. "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig below, 5th post is a basic guide to case airflow.

I wish someone with a 3D printer would make a 10mm spacer to use on front cover pins and clip into front clips onto front. Then we could use magnetic mounting filters on fan mounting plate.
 

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I would try doing a vent in bottom with a magnetic mounting filter with something like PH-F140MP and 2x PH-F120MP front intakes (block all holes not covered by front fans so air fans are pushing into case cannot leak back into the space between case front and fan mounting plate), remove all PCIe slot covers with not top fans at all and monitor the air temp going into GPU and CPU cooler fans. "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig below, 5th post is a basic guide to case airflow.

>>>I wish someone with a 3D printer would make a 10mm spacer to use on front cover pins and clip into front clips onto front. Then we could use magnetic mounting filters on fan mounting plate<<<.
I have a buddy in work with a 3D printer. If you can get me the dims I can draw it up on CAD/Sketchup/Whichever, and get him to do a few prints. :)
 

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I have a buddy in work with a 3D printer. If you can get me the dims I can draw it up on CAD/Sketchup/Whichever, and get him to do a few prints. :)
That would be great! I'll try and get it done in the next day or two. I'm thinking this might work not jsut on P400 latches, but other Phanteks cases too. Like top and front of Evolv. Set of 4 or 8 would be small and light weight so could be posted to anywhere. Might make you guys a little beer money. :D
 

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Here is a rather rough drawing of what I'm think about to extend the front cover out to add
5.9mm vent gap around 21 x 43 cm case front panel adding
approx. 75.5 sq cm of airflow area of front vent area to stock​
15.2x2cm and 13x3cm of stock venting with
approx 56.3 sq cm of airflow area.​
Ending up with about 2.3 times as much airflow area as stock case has.
 

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Max front and bottom intake, top intake front maybe, rear top none closed, rear exhaust, remove PCIe slots and covers. Close all open areas otherwise.

Tripe 80mm pushing air up is well inaccurate the exhaust of those GPU coolers often is to the side and to mobo and overall GPUs blast the air around swirling it and not moving it anywhere. Only those having a rear and front exhaust often blast air back to front as rear has too much restriction to pass well.
 

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Bottom of P400 only vent is to PSU, front has venting with 3x 120mm or 2x 140mm fan mounts, and top has venting with 2x 120mm and 2x 140mm fan mounts. Removing all PCIe back slot covers increases back venting more then 2x to allow more than 2x as much front to back airflow, but front venting is very limited so that is why I'm trying to come up with a simple way to space front out about 6mm.
 

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I was going to cut open my front panel of my P400S, but using the top two fan mounts as intakes (with the stock fans that came with the case) pretty much solved my temp issues despite not being a common "accepted" place to put intakes. Temps now on a delided i7 6700 with a Le Grand Macho RT are ~60c gaming and ~70c on synthetic loads.

I've got two Bitfenix 140mm up front as intake, the two stock Phantek fans up top as intake, and no exhaust. The LGMRT blocks the back fan mount so it's just not occupied :eek:
 

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I was going to cut open my front panel of my P400S, but using the top two fan mounts as intakes (with the stock fans that came with the case) pretty much solved my temp issues despite not being a common "accepted" place to put intakes. Temps now on a delided i7 6700 with a Le Grand Macho RT are ~60c gaming and ~70c on synthetic loads.

I've got two Bitfenix 140mm up front as intake, the two stock Phantek fans up top as intake, and no exhaust. The LGMRT blocks the back fan mount so it's just not occupied :eek:
As long as it works (and it does) there's no reason to change it. I assume you removed unused PCIe back slot covers too.
 

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As long as it works (and it does) there's no reason to change it. I assume you removed unused PCIe back slot covers too.
nope. case looks bad with them out :p

GPU temps never really were that bad. I run a custom fan curve so that the fan never goes above 45% until >80c and even with the shunt mod done to my 1060 I don't see over mid 70s. My old case kept it ~10c cooler though but that was without the shunt mod so I'm not too sure how much they really went up.
 

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Hi,
Have to write that down
Do not buy gpu's from The Pook :p
 

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9 Cans of Ravioli
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Hi,
Have to write that down
Do not buy gpu's from The Pook :p
70s aren't dangerous temps and the shunt mod just keeps it in boost longer :p
 

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Overclocker in training
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Hi,
Yeah just messing with you santa :)
 

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Both of the CPU cooler fans are in push? As in pushing air towards each other? Hopefully the label is just wrong and both are pushing towards rear case fan.
Good catch. :thumb:
I didn't even notice it. :eek:

Front should be push and back should be pull. If both are pushing air toward each other there is not much airflow plus they are re-using their own heated air that is pushing out the sides and being drawn back into fans.
 

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Here is a rather rough drawing of what I'm think about to extend the front cover out to add
5.9mm vent gap around 21 x 43 cm case front panel adding
approx. 75.5 sq cm of airflow area of front vent area to stock​
15.2x2cm and 13x3cm of stock venting with
approx 56.3 sq cm of airflow area.​
Ending up with about 2.3 times as much airflow area as stock case has.
What did you draw that in? Anyway of converting it to CAD? Otherwise I could just draw it.

I can easily get this 3D modelled and printed for you. :)
 

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Here is a rather rough drawing of what I'm think about to extend the front cover out to add
5.9mm vent gap around 21 x 43 cm case front panel adding
approx. 75.5 sq cm of airflow area of front vent area to stock​
15.2x2cm and 13x3cm of stock venting with
approx 56.3 sq cm of airflow area.​
Ending up with about 2.3 times as much airflow area as stock case has.
EDIT:

Why not just a "tube" at 9.9mm, with a section that goes down to 5.6 at the other end, but with a "small screw hole", so you can tighten them at the side to match the curve without having to glue anything, simple to print (less margin of error), and easy to assemble?
 

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EDIT:

Why not just a "tube" at 9.9mm, with a section that goes down to 5.6 at the other end, but with a "small screw hole", so you can tighten them at the side to match the curve without having to glue anything, simple to print (less margin of error), and easy to assemble?
Sorry, don't have CAD or anything similar. :eek:

Your idea might work, but how would 5.5 dia part 'clip' / into latch in case and not slip out?

The gray ball tipped latch pin drawing is a copy of what is in front cover. I just drew somethign similar on end of spacer because it is what is used stock. Obviously the pink colored drawing is cut open view of spacer (in case someone else is reading who does not know how to read dimensional drawings).

Screws would be a real pain because front has to be easily removed to clean front filter, and ball end clips into clip mounted in case. There are also 4x indexing pins abput 5mm in size with angle tapered tops, but I'm hoping they are not needed. It would be ideal if someone near you had a P400 case to verify fit & function. We all know first run prototypes often don't work as planned. :p

They may wedge on tight enough no glue will be needed. If not I figured most hot-glue melts at low temp and placement is on painted metal so no issue with using a heat gun at low temp or hair dryer to warm them up enough to soften hot-glue to take them off if one ever wanted to remove them.

Not a big deal. Just something I was brainstorming / playing with. :eek:

I could get a chuck of plastic and make something by hand if I was really serious about it.
 

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Sorry, don't have CAD or anything similar. :eek:

Your idea might work, but how would 5.5 dia part 'clip' / into latch in case and not slip out?

The gray ball tipped latch pin drawing is a copy of what is in front cover. I just drew somethign similar on end of spacer because it is what is used stock. Obviously the pink colored drawing is cut open view of spacer (in case someone else is reading who does not know how to read dimensional drawings).

Screws would be a real pain because front has to be easily removed to clean front filter, and ball end clips into clip mounted in case. There are also 4x indexing pins abput 5mm in size with angle tapered tops, but I'm hoping they are not needed. It would be ideal if someone near you had a P400 case to verify fit & function. We all know first run prototypes often don't work as planned. :p

They may wedge on tight enough no glue will be needed. If not I figured most hot-glue melts at low temp and placement is on painted metal so no issue with using a heat gun at low temp or hair dryer to warm them up enough to soften hot-glue to take them off if one ever wanted to remove them.

Not a big deal. Just something I was brainstorming / playing with. :eek:

I could get a chuck of plastic and make something by hand if I was really serious about it.
Well, too late, I've already modelled it and got the ball rolling with my buddy who can 3D print it. Haha! Give me your email I'll send it over, just PM. Got it in 3DS Max, .obj and .max format. Could send it to anyone or any company and they could actually 3D print it now. Just need to tell them that the insides are hollow, and to add structure.

I have the Enthoo Evolv ATX, has a similar connector on the front panel. Maybe I can actually test it too since I'd imagine they'd use the same connector across their cases.
 
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