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Well, I'm selling off my secondary system, the CPU+mobo+ram out of my main, and rebuilding on i7. I'll still have some $ left over though, and was thinking about finally going water...

I'm wanting to keep it fairly inexpensive and buying most of the parts off fellow members. The only things I'm fairly certain of right now is that I'll be using a T-line and that the rad which will be a MCR-320QP (with three panaflo ultra high speed 120x38s that I already have). What would be a good choice for a pump? Also, what would be a good but fairly cheap 1366 block? Would a GTZ or Fuzion v2 cut it for a 920 that I plan on trying to get 4.2 out of?

I haven't really been following WC products as closely as air seeing as though that's what I've been using.

Thanks in advance guys!
 

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There's somewhat of a controversy concerning which is better-the mcp355 or the mcp655. The 355 is more future proof, seeing as how it has more head pressure, which allows it to push through more blocks. If you don't plan on upgrading your loop, and keeping it to strictly a cpu loop, the 655 is better because it has a higher flow rate. I have a 355, because I'm cooling everything on my mobo, so I need the head pressure. However, in strictly a CPU only loop, the 655 will give you better temps. If you use the 355, make sure to get an aftermarket top for it...I'd recommend the XSPC tops, as they seem to maximize the potential of your pump, and allow it to use any size of barbs you want. I'd recommend using 1/2"ID tygon tubing for everything inside your computer.
For your cpu block, I'd recommend using a heatkiller 3.0, as this is definitely the best block out there right now. If that's not on your budget...it doesn't have to be the 3.0. Any heatkiller is going to do what it says-kill heat
You'd just have to make sure you get the proper mounting brackets if you get a previous model of the heatkiller.
 

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Originally Posted by zpliptzy
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There's somewhat of a controversy concerning which is better-the mcp355 or the mcp655. The 355 is more future proof, seeing as how it has more head pressure, which allows it to push through more blocks. If you don't plan on upgrading your loop, and keeping it to strictly a cpu loop, the 655 is better because it has a higher flow rate. I have a 355, because I'm cooling everything on my mobo, so I need the head pressure. However, in strictly a CPU only loop, the 655 will give you better temps. If you use the 355, make sure to get an aftermarket top for it...I'd recommend the XSPC tops, as they seem to maximize the potential of your pump, and allow it to use any size of barbs you want. I'd recommend using 1/2"ID tygon tubing for everything inside your computer.
For your cpu block, I'd recommend using a heatkiller 3.0, as this is definitely the best block out there right now. If that's not on your budget...it doesn't have to be the 3.0. Any heatkiller is going to do what it says-kill heat
You'd just have to make sure you get the proper mounting brackets if you get a previous model of the heatkiller.

There was a review on XS that said the actual head pressure is only about 3 ft more than the mcp655. The mcp655 isn't worth all that unless you get the vario which is one of the main reason they are chosen over the mcp355. The mcp355 is more flexible in terms of mounting as bay reservoirs give it an extremely convenient place to put them as well as being able to mount them just about anywhere on the case due to it's size.

Not sure if it's 100% confirmed but Vapor at XS did a review on the EK supreme HF i think that's what it was called being the current king of the blocks. It outperformed the HK and XT but the pricing
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaekhfac.html
is up to you. Other than the price a HK LT or GTZ should get you what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the input guys! I'll definitely look into seeing if I can snag a used 355/655 (leaning more towards the 655 from the info given as I don't see myself WCing the rest of the system).

As for the block, what's an est. temp difference between the GTZ, Fuzion v2, Enzotech Sapphire and Heat Killer 3.0? I'm wanting to shoot for 4.2 with HT on, but if any of those blocks would give me reasonable temps, I'd be happy going with the cheapest.

Also, Mike - that block doesn't come with 1366 mountings does it?
 

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Originally Posted by killa_concept
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Thanks for all the input guys! I'll definitely look into seeing if I can snag a used 355/655 (leaning more towards the 655 from the info given as I don't see myself WCing the rest of the system).

As for the block, what's an est. temp difference between the GTZ, Fuzion v2, Enzotech Sapphire and Heat Killer 3.0? I'm wanting to shoot for 4.2 with HT on, but if any of those blocks would give me reasonable temps, I'd be happy going with the cheapest.

Also, Mike - that block doesn't come with 1366 mountings does it?

Nope, forgot about that. You need the z- adapter thing.
 

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Water and Fairly Inexpensive don't go together. Either do it right and spend the money or just stay with a high end air cooler.
 

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Originally Posted by Hey Zeus
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Water and Fairly Inexpensive don't go together. Either do it right and spend the money or just stay with a high end air cooler.

I guess "relatively" inexpensive would have made more sense than "fairly" inexpensive. As you can see by the parts I'm considering, it's not cheap and isn't going to flub unless it's user error. We're not talking a thermaltake kit here


Anyways guys, here's what I'm considering thus far:
MCR-320QP with 1/2" barbs for the rad ($65ish new)
Mcp655 for the pump (not sure what these go for used)
Unless someone tells me the Heatkiller 3.0 is significantly better, a GTZ or Fuzion v2 for the block ($35-40ish used)
1/2" ID Tygon Tubing ($1.80 a foot, but I'm not sure how much I will need)

Also, do you guys think I should be using a T-line? Or should I try to make a res out of a Nalgene bottle or something?
 

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Originally Posted by motoray
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if you get a mcp355 pump and put a xspc acrylic top on it the performance goes up flow and head. If you get a restrictive block like a heatkiller definitely get the 355.

Thanks for the advice. So how much better is the heatkiller compared to the two blocks I proposed?
 

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Well here is a chart with some temps. The HK is 2-3° better than the GTZ, and suprisingly the GTZ is better than the Enzo. The EK supreme HF is not on the graph, but it beats the XT.

 

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Originally Posted by Mikecdm
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Well here is a chart with some temps. The HK is 2-3° better than the GTZ, and suprisingly the GTZ is better than the Enzo. The EK supreme HF is not on the graph, but it beats the XT.

Thanks! That's exactly what I was hoping to find. 2-3C at those settings doesn't seem to be worth the extra $40. The difference will probably be more like 2C with a lower, more realistic load (4.2 with 1.32v) right? Also, where would the Fuzion v2 fall in that list?
 

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Just a note on your tygon tubing: make sure to get the 3/4" OD stuff. I recently ordered some 1/2" tubing, but neglected to notice that it was 5/8" OD. It kinks like crazy, and totally neglects the point of getting tygon tubing-tygon is naturally pretty kink proof, if it's somewhat thick. The reason I say this is because the stuff I got that was 5/8" was $1.80/ft...
 

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Originally Posted by zpliptzy
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Just a note on your tygon tubing: make sure to get the 3/4" OD stuff. I recently ordered some 1/2" tubing, but neglected to notice that it was 5/8" OD. It kinks like crazy, and totally neglects the point of getting tygon tubing-tygon is naturally pretty kink proof, if it's somewhat thick. The reason I say this is because the stuff I got that was 5/8" was $1.80/ft...

Ah alright - thanks for the save! How many feet do you think I would need? Also, is the advantage of Tygon over PVC simply the kink proofiness?
 

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Originally Posted by killa_concept
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Ah alright - thanks for the save! How many feet do you think I would need? Also, is the advantage of Tygon over PVC simply the kink proofiness?

For a CPU only loop, no less than 10'. It's nice to have extra, in case you find the loop you originally planned won't work.
As far as the advantages of tygon over pvc...I have learned the difference first-hand. I originally ordered UV-reactive pvc for my first loop, and it just doesn't bend...at all. Any bend at all resulted in a kink. I suspect pvc can take more heat before it expands, but if you get thick tygon tubing, you don't have to worry about that. I've been told if you get anti-kink coils, it will reduce kinks, but that's just one more thing to get. I tried to make make-shift kink coils with zip ties on my pvc, and that didn't fix my problems, so I suspect that actual kink coils also don't do much with pvc. With a cpu only loop, you shouldn't have to worry as much about kinks, but it is still an issue-one that is best to just avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh, and another question: I was just going to use distilled water for coolant - is there anything I should be adding to it though?
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by killa_concept View Post
Oh, and another question: I was just going to use distilled water for coolant - is there anything I should be adding to it though?
A biocide like PT Nuke or a silver coil.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Chunky_Chimp View Post
A biocide like PT Nuke or a silver coil.
Thanks! I'll pick up some PT Nuke with my rad... any chance you could answer my other question about the MCP350 with a XSPC top and 1/2" barbs? Would it be enough for a MCR-320QP rad and a GTZ block?
 
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