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get premixed 50/50 antifreeze and then cut it in 1/2 twice with distilled water then add 1 silver kill koil and your solid

u dont really want more than a 15% mixture as it will slow down the flow of the liquid thru your loop. doing it as I said gives you roughly 12.5% antifreeze

ALSO, this is VERY important
Depending on your res and your hoses, antifreeze may not be the right way to do.

some plastics dont hold up well to antifreeze such as the (typhoon III) res. MOST XSPC stuff is solid as is the swiftech micro res.
and your pump should be fine just as long as its not a mixture over 15% which would work the pump harder.
 

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are you going to be running some extreme forms of cooling such as a TEC or phase? thats really the only time you need a anti freeze solution.

or are you doing an outside lan like i did this year.

the power went out and one of my friends acrylic cpu block cracked due to the water freezing in his lines because the tent went from 89f to 22f in an hour.
 

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You don't need or want anti-freeze unless you are going to be dropping the temperature of your coolant below 0. Anti-freeze (Ethylene Glycol) has roughly half the heat capacity of water, so adding anti-freeze to your loop WILL increase temperatures in multi block loops.

Heat capacity of water is 4187 j/kg
Heat capacity of Ethylene Glycol is 2411 j/kg

This won't have any positive effect on temperatures in a single loop, and will actually negatively affect temperatures in a multi block loop. Considering that you also need to remove all of the acrylic from your loop, anti-freeze for an above 0 loop really does not make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Quote:


Originally Posted by dracotonisamond
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are you going to be running some extreme forms of cooling such as a TEC or phase? thats really the only time you need a anti freeze solution.

or are you doing an outside lan like i did this year.

the power went out and one of my friends acrylic cpu block cracked due to the water freezing in his lines because the tent went from 89f to 22f in an hour.

naw jusr wc ight have to in winter tho when it hits -40 here tho
so i can do out side

Quote:


Originally Posted by charliehorse55
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You don't need or want anti-freeze unless you are going to be dropping the temperature of your coolant below 0. Anti-freeze (Ethylene Glycol) has roughly half the heat capacity of water, so adding anti-freeze to your loop WILL increase temperatures in multi block loops.

Heat capacity of water is 4187 j/kg
Heat capacity of Ethylene Glycol is 2411 j/kg

This won't have any positive effect on temperatures in a single loop, and will actually negatively affect temperatures in a multi block loop. Considering that you also need to remove all of the acrylic from your loop, anti-freeze for an above 0 loop really does not make sense.

well i waz thinking of doing that and not puting a silver coil in it
 

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Decent auto coolant (not just "antifreeze") can be beneficial to PC watercooling if the one you use includes the right additives. Basically, try and use quality auto coolant that includes wetting additives, as well as the other usualy coolant additives.

This way, the benefits are far more beneficial then just its freezing and booling point.

Decent quality auto coolant with a wetting additive will reduces water tension to improve cooling capacity of water. Plus then consider the benefits of the corrosion inhibitors and you'll find it is much better then just distilled water alone.

All it needs is some biocide and you're good to go
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quote:

Originally Posted by un-nefer View Post
Decent auto coolant (not just "antifreeze") can be beneficial to PC watercooling if the one you use includes the right additives. Basically, try and use quality auto coolant that includes wetting additives, as well as the other usualy coolant additives.

This way, the benefits are far more beneficial then just its freezing and booling point.

Decent quality auto coolant with a wetting additive will reduces water tension to improve cooling capacity of water. Plus then consider the benefits of the corrosion inhibitors and you'll find it is much better then just distilled water alone.

All it needs is some biocide and you're good to go

hmm that sounds like a good idea might have to think about that
 

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Whatever you do, DO NOT use any of the Dex-Cool nor Extended Life anti-freeze they are a completely different formula for the most modern vehicles. The protection they give for our WCing is by far very limited compared to the normal and tried GREEN COLOR coolants used for the past 75 years.

OK, with that said, which of the two GREEN COLOR coolants to use? Well, the Ethylene Glycol (EG) is the most tried and true. And yes, a mixture of 10-15% in our loops will do well. BUT, if you have a copper block and an aluminum RAD, you will need to bump that mixture to 33% EG and 66% distilled water.

Alright now, there is one more coolant that works wonders too. It's Propylene Glycol. This is used in the RV and marine industries. It's pet and human safe, and best of all, WCing pumps love the stuff since it really helps keeping all of the pump internals well lubricated making their life extended.
 

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I used to use automotive coolant, but they all seemed to stain my loop, and caused build ups in my block of what I believe was the dye. Switched to distilled and I don't even have to clean my block at all between drain and fills. I'd never use automotive coolants in my loop again.
 

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There is a great coolant out there called..............distilled water.
 

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