[Jixr]

Looking to finally upgrade from my 2600k

And wanted to see if there were any suggestions for changing my parts list before I buy. Currently my budget is sitting at $2000
I'd like to do a white theme build, nice change of pace from the years of black components.
( Prices from amazon )

CPU: AMD 3900X $500
GPU: Gigiabyte RTX 2070 Super ( white ) $550 ( connected to a 1440 60hz monitor )
MotherBoard: Asus Prime X570-Pro $235 ( maybe a bit overkill? but I like the color )
CPU Cooler: Noctua DH-15 $100 ( I've always used AIOs or custom loops, but want to give air a try )
SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 1TB $170 ( thinking of subbing for a slower/cheaper m2 ssd )
Ram: Corsair Vengance RGB Pro 16gig 3600 $133 ( Only white ram i could find, i'd prefer 32gigs, but also worried this may
interfere with cooler )
PSU: Corsair RMX White 750watt $130
Case: Not yet decided


Total comes out to just around $1800

I have some old HDD's and noctua fans from my current build that i'll move over to the new build.
Use will be a do-everything computer, from gaming, to light video editing, photoshop, 3d modeling and things like that.



If you have any suggestions or changes, please let me know what you think.

 

[161029]

RAM: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7w...b-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-bls2k16g4d32aesc

Micron E die. If anybody says you MUST get a good kit of B-die, don't bother with them. At best the tighter timings B-die gives over E-die will give you like 3-5% more memory bandwidth which you'll never notice (plus the least expensive kit of good B-die in a 2x16GB kit is $230).

Board is fine. Technically the X570 TUF has the same exact VRM but if you're going for the color, may as well.

SSD swap to a Phison E12 + Toshiba BiCS TLC clone. The least expensive ones are the Team MP34 ($104 though every time it comes back in stock it immediately goes out of stock) or the Pioneer APS-SE20G (it went up to $113 but it was at $100 for awhile. Will probably creep down again). The other clones are usually more expensive or are from Inland Premium or Addlink, neither of which I've heard of before so support might be weird if you ever need it for some reason. You get like 80-90% performance of the Samsung for as little as 50-60% of the price.

Comparison (the blue bars are the clones Anandtech has tested): https://www.anandtech.com/show/14331/the-team-group-mp34-512gb-ssd-review/3

Not sure why the NH-D15 is $100 though (maybe you're in CA?). I keep seeing it for $80 (D15S technically but performance is the same). Maybe you're looking at the chromax black edition? Or maybe you've just added in the cost of the Chromax White heatsink covers.

 

[cssorkinman]

Maybe not the best for air cooling but I like my black one just like this
https://www.newegg.com/white-lian-l...&cm_re=lian_li_dynamic-_-11-112-591-_-Product

What do you do with your rig? What monitor are you going to use?

I prefer G-skill memory to corsair - just get along better with it.

 

[Jixr]

RAM: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7w...b-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-bls2k16g4d32aesc

Micron E die. If anybody says you MUST get a good kit of B-die, don't bother with them. At best the tighter timings B-die gives over E-die will give you like 3-5% more memory bandwidth which you'll never notice (plus the least expensive kit of good B-die in a 2x16GB kit is $230).

Board is fine. Technically the X570 TUF has the same exact VRM but if you're going for the color, may as well.

SSD swap to a Phison E12 + Toshiba BiCS TLC clone. The least expensive ones are the Team MP34 ($104 though every time it comes back in stock it immediately goes out of stock) or the Pioneer APS-SE20G (it went up to $113 but it was at $100 for awhile. Will probably creep down again). The other clones are usually more expensive or are from Inland Premium or Addlink, neither of which I've heard of before so support might be weird if you ever need it for some reason. You get like 80-90% performance of the Samsung for as little as 50-60% of the price.

Comparison (the blue bars are the clones Anandtech has tested): https://www.anandtech.com/show/14331/the-team-group-mp34-512gb-ssd-review/3

Not sure why the NH-D15 is $100 though (maybe you're in CA?). I keep seeing it for $80 (D15S technically but performance is the same). Maybe you're looking at the chromax black edition? Or maybe you've just added in the cost of the Chromax White heatsink covers.

Yeah the TUF is my backup budget selection. Part of me is tempted to ditch the white idea and go for max value.

Good to know on the SSD

Yes sorry, the chromax white heatsink covers are included in the price.

What do you do with your rig? What monitor are you going to use?

Games, light video editing, 3d rendering, photoshop/lightroom, bit of everything. 1440 60hz monitor.

 

[161029]

Maybe not the best for air cooling but I like my black one just like this
https://www.newegg.com/white-lian-l...&cm_re=lian_li_dynamic-_-11-112-591-_-Product

I'd second this if you were going for a primarily white build, unless you don't want the case to be white as well (i.e. you want the components to stand out over the case).

It has great airflow. You lose some pressure on the front fans due to the air having to take a right angle turn but this is honestly already one of the better cases out there. GPU cooling is great because you can just use two bottom intakes to blow air straight at the GPU.

Yeah the TUF is my backup budget selection. Part of me is tempted to ditch the white idea and go for max value.

I mean you'll be staring at this build for probably a good 5 years or more unless you decide to upgrade earlier for whatever reason. Amortizing the $70 difference between the X570 TUF and X570 Pro over that much time is a pretty small amount per year.

 

[Jixr]

I mean you'll be staring at this build for probably a good 5 years or more unless you decide to upgrade earlier for whatever reason. Amortizing the $70 difference between the X570 TUF and X570 Pro over that much time is a pretty small amount per year.

Yeah, though I figure I can shave probably $200 off the build by ditching the white idea, which I could put towards better components now.

My case selection i'm very tempted to go with something cheap for now, as I am planning on buying the Dune Pro pc case ( mac pro clone case ) when it becomes available. Or simply using my current case for the time being.

 

[161029]

Another option for the case would be the P400A white version. One of the best airflow cases right now.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FP...0a-digital-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec400atg_dwt

http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P400A.html

 

[Turtle Rig]

RAM: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7w...b-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-bls2k16g4d32aesc

Micron E die. If anybody says you MUST get a good kit of B-die, don't bother with them. At best the tighter timings B-die gives over E-die will give you like 3-5% more memory bandwidth which you'll never notice (plus the least expensive kit of good B-die in a 2x16GB kit is $230).

Board is fine. Technically the X570 TUF has the same exact VRM but if you're going for the color, may as well.

SSD swap to a Phison E12 + Toshiba BiCS TLC clone. The least expensive ones are the Team MP34 ($104 though every time it comes back in stock it immediately goes out of stock) or the Pioneer APS-SE20G (it went up to $113 but it was at $100 for awhile. Will probably creep down again). The other clones are usually more expensive or are from Inland Premium or Addlink, neither of which I've heard of before so support might be weird if you ever need it for some reason. You get like 80-90% performance of the Samsung for as little as 50-60% of the price.

Comparison (the blue bars are the clones Anandtech has tested): https://www.anandtech.com/show/14331/the-team-group-mp34-512gb-ssd-review/3

Not sure why the NH-D15 is $100 though (maybe you're in CA?). I keep seeing it for $80 (D15S technically but performance is the same). Maybe you're looking at the chromax black edition? Or maybe you've just added in the cost of the Chromax White heatsink covers.

Great rig you built here. My only advice is spend 85 bucks and get the DRP4 instead of the Noctua My father uses it and his 9900k has been superb and he keeps telling me how fast it is...... It barely spins the fans to cool it even on full load. Where as Noctua fans have to spin fast to disspate the heat. The DRP4 is basically the size of a mini basketball ,,, two quiet fans. I highly suggest it. Other then that all is good. The video card will go well with your system. IT will really shine on a 144hz gaming monitor which are dirt cheap depending on size and resolution of course.

 

[keikei]

You can save about $140 and have near identical performance @ 1440P with a Sapphire 5700XT Pulse.

 

[Turtle Rig]

Looking to finally upgrade from my 2600k

And wanted to see if there were any suggestions for changing my parts list before I buy. Currently my budget is sitting at $2000
I'd like to do a white theme build, nice change of pace from the years of black components.
( Prices from amazon )

CPU: AMD 3900X $500
GPU: Gigiabyte RTX 2070 Super ( white ) $550 ( connected to a 1440 60hz monitor )
MotherBoard: Asus Prime X570-Pro $235 ( maybe a bit overkill? but I like the color )
CPU Cooler: Noctua DH-15 $100 ( I've always used AIOs or custom loops, but want to give air a try )
SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 1TB $170 ( thinking of subbing for a slower/cheaper m2 ssd )
Ram: Corsair Vengance RGB Pro 16gig 3600 $133 ( Only white ram i could find, i'd prefer 32gigs, but also worried this may
interfere with cooler )
PSU: Corsair RMX White 750watt $130
Case: Not yet decided


Total comes out to just around $1800

I have some old HDD's and noctua fans from my current build that i'll move over to the new build.
Use will be a do-everything computer, from gaming, to light video editing, photoshop, 3d modeling and things like that.



If you have any suggestions or changes, please let me know what you think.

I would go with the DRP4 it is 85 dollars. Noctua is good but they have competition with Be Quiet. I would take a DRP4 instead of Noctua. It will have less noise and cool a little better since the thing is a size of a mini basketball and what not.