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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys and gals,

Does anyone own or have used this water block:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23494

I am planning to cool my chipset(my motherboard is a Maximus Extreme) with this block but I am not sure if it will interfere with my GPU(4870x2). Also, do you guys have any suggestion for the water blocks for my NB and Vregs?
I need something that will fit in my Maximus Extreme..Thanks a lot!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Originally Posted by javier
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I wouldn't bother wc'ing your sb. They all stay cool and you're just setting yourself up for more hassles. There's a reason you see almost no one doing it...

If you insist on doing so, I'm no sure if this particular one will fit...

Thanks. The only reasong I am considering on water cooling the SB and the Crosslink chip is because I want to remove the Fusion block and the stock heatsink my board came in so I could have a better NB block w/ 1/2" OB barbs, because the fusion block is only 3/8" OD and the tubing that I bought was 7/16" ID..

Maybe I could just put some heatsink over my SB?

The SB/Crosslink water block I posted was I think made just for Maximus Extreme..

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Originally Posted by SpcCdr
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delete
Oops misread OP and thought you were asking about the Rampage Extreme -not the Maximus Extreme!



Thanks a lot for trying to help!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Originally Posted by ChielScape
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you could use the tubing ID-reducers supplied by ASUS... 3/8" doesnt hurt too much.

Okay.. I will look into it..Or maybe, do you think I could just put the 7/16" Id tubing on the 3/8" OD barb of the Fusion block and not have leaks?

I just though that I will affect the performance of my WC setup if I have all 7/16" ID tubing and have a 3/8"OD barb on the Fusion block.

Thanks!
 

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well, i run 3/8" troughout my entire loop... i usually recommend that to anyone.
not sure if it would be very cost-efficient to change that now though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
well, i run 3/8" troughout my entire loop... i usually recommend that to anyone.
not sure if it would be very cost-efficient to change that now though...
yah, I agree with you since I just spent some money for my CPU only loop.

I think I misunderstood you, you said you usually recommend 3/8" barbs OD/ID or tubing OD/ID?

I am assuming that you are talking about 3/8" ID tubing right?
The Fusion block is a 3/8" OD barb but I dont know what is the ID.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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Originally Posted by ChielScape
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you could try.. the difference is 1.6mm.. use VERY strong clamps.

Okay, will do!!..


Thanks!! My stuff should come in tomorrow so I will be able to start the setup soon
 

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7/16" ID will be really loose on 3/8" barbs, no way would I try that, I doubt you would ever get that clamped well enough that it wont leak.

If you have to neck down to 3/8" for that one block I'd just use 1/2x3/4" tubing on the whole thing. Then just get a foot or so of 3/8x1/2" tubing. Cut a little piece of it long enough to go over the 3/8" barb, then just slide you 1/2" ID tubing on over that and clamp it, that gives you a real good leak proof union without having to use reducers.

Or just use some reducers...1/2" barb to 3/8" barb Hose Adapter
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by ira-k
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7/16" ID will be really loose on 3/8" barbs, no way would I try that, I doubt you would ever get that clamped well enough that it wont leak.

If you have to neck down to 3/8" for that one block I'd just use 1/2x3/4" tubing on the whole thing. Then just get a foot or so of 3/8x1/2" tubing. Cut a little piece of it long enough to go over the 3/8" barb, then just slide you 1/2" ID tubing on over that and clamp it, that gives you a real good leak proof union without having to use reducers.

Or just use some reducers...1/2" barb to 3/8" barb Hose Adapter

i guess you could try this with some thin-walled 1/4" tubing stretched over the 3/8" barbs... should work if you soften it with boiling water.
 

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Just use 1/2x3/4" tubing on the rig and 3/8x1/2" on the 3/8" will fit it just right, I've done it many times. No guess work involved..
 

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point is, instead of doing the 1/2", he could just go 3/8" instead... flows just as well.

the point was that it wasnt cost efficient to change all the tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by ira-k
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Just use 1/2x3/4" tubing on the rig and 3/8x1/2" on the 3/8" will fit it just right, I've done it many times. No guess work involved..


I think that is a good idea but I already purchased my components and it will include a 7/16" ID by 5/8" OD masterkleer tubing.. I have some 3/8" ID tubing left over from my WC kit, so maybe I will use that and put the reducer that ChielScape recomended.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by ChielScape
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i guess you could try this with some thin-walled 1/4" tubing stretched over the 3/8" barbs... should work if you soften it with boiling water.

I think I have some of those reducers laying around here at work, so maybe I will get some..

Thanks..
 

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Yeah $3 or $4 for some tubing is really expensive.

One thing about it, it would still be a lot cheaper then using 7/16" on 3/8" barbs and leaking all over his board.
 
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