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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14932/ex-tub-1105/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Black_Chrome_FCC-1234-6P-BC.html?tl=g30c409s1033

I've never heard of any company named "Monsoon", but these are some beautiful fittings.

DangerDen has a reservoir by the name Monsoon, but there apparently is no link between them. They also do not list these fittings there.

As with all compressions, I still have no idea how the cap can be tightened down, without over tightening the nipple part of the fitting.

All I can think of is using something to place between the bottom of the nipple and the block, to keep the fitting from being tightened down too far while attaching the cap over the hose and then to the nipple. Maybe a thin piece of metal. I'm imagining something like a flat-bladed feeler gauge, like those used to set the gap of spark plugs.

The metal blades of these feeler gauges ar incompressible, of course, so one should keep the nipple part of the compression fitting from tightening down any further while tightening down the cap of the fitting. Possibly getting the cap to bottom out on the nipple part as we all want.

The entire fitting could then be backed out slightly, allowing the feeler gauge to be removed. This would also stop over-compression of the O-ring of the fittings too much and thus prevent leakage.

Anyway, these fittings look really good and could save a lot of wear and tear on our fingers while installing our fittings.

They come in a wide variety of colors, but I can't find if the colored ones are anodized or if they use colored chrome. They have my favorite black-chrome, too.

I have 2 complete systems to install now and then at least 1 later for IvyBridge.

If these Monsoons are worth a damn then they could really cut down on the pain involved with installing compressions.
 

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From what I know, these were originally posted on the XS forums. I don't know if a member there is the creator, or they just found them first.

I do recall reading that the bottom flat part of the barb is knurled, to help prevent what you mention. Now that I think more about it, wouldn't that scratch up blocks? It would never be seen, so I guess it's not a big deal. Also, regular compression fittings have this same issue when you first attach one end of the tubing. The second fitting doesn't have nearly as much over-tightening due to the tubing's resistance.
 

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BoxGods is AFAIK a Danger Den employee. Not sure why it isn't sold under the Danger Den brand.

EDIT: I was wrong. Monsoon has nothing to do w/ Danger Den. Except that they used Danger Den to distribute their reservoir. These fittings have nothing to do w/ them.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kzinti1 View Post

This would also stop over-compression of the O-ring of the fittings too much and thus prevent leakage.
Most of the fittings I have, except for some barbs from DD, have a recessed area the o-ring slots into, so it isn't actually possible to over compress the o-ring, as the fitting bottoms out against the block first.
Looking at the pictures of these new fittings, I think they have the same kind of recess for the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caleal View Post

Most of the fittings I have, except for some barbs from DD, have a recessed area the o-ring slots into, so it isn't actually possible to over compress the o-ring, as the fitting bottoms out against the block first.
Looking at the pictures of these new fittings, I think they have the same kind of recess for the o-ring.
I built a loop using Bitspower compressions, screwed the caps down as far as I could, didn't think about overcompressing the o-rings, and it started leaking as soon as the pump started circulating the fluid. Luckily, I decided to short the psu so the pump was the only thing running.

The o-rings on those fittings are also slightly recessed. I just looked to confirm.

I was hoping that there was some trick to installing compressions, but it doesn't look like it.

I guess I'll be better off sticking to hose clamps from the local auto-supply. They're ugly as Hell, but safe.

Still, I think I'll try as I said and use a stack of the gap-gauge blades as a removeable shim so I won't overcompress the o-rings.

No wonder most people avoid watercooling. Even though it's perfectly simple. If you know exactly what you're doing. I still don't.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kzinti1 View Post

I was hoping that there was some trick to installing compressions, but it doesn't look like it.
I guess I'll be better off sticking to hose clamps from the local auto-supply. They're ugly as Hell, but safe.
Still, I think I'll try as I said and use a stack of the gap-gauge blades as a removeable shim so I won't overcompress the o-rings.
No wonder most people avoid watercooling. Even though it's perfectly simple. If you know exactly what you're doing. I still don't.
If I had to guess, you were overtightening the fittings. Pretty much all you need to tighten the Barb portion, is until you feel the o-ring grab. At that point, only give it another half turn or so. They don't need to be so tight that you can't tighten anymore.

Same goes for the compression ring. It doesn't need to be so tight that it won't turn anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybutcher View Post

If I had to guess, you were overtightening the fittings. Pretty much all you need to tighten the Barb portion, is until you feel the o-ring grab. At that point, only give it another half turn or so. They don't need to be so tight that you can't tighten anymore.
Same goes for the compression ring. It doesn't need to be so tight that it won't turn anymore.
Yes, that's exactly what happened.

How do you get the cap to tighten down without the bottom part also turning and overcompressing the o-ring? When should I stop trying to tighten down the compression ring?

Some people get away with using no hose clamps, zip-ties or anything else. Just push the hoses over the barbs and leave it at that.

How? Use 1/2" I.D. thin-walled tubing so the hose molds itself around the barbs and doesn't leak?

1/2" x 3/4" tubing is stiff and can easily, accidentally move around on a barb with no clamps, when/if you're screwing around with your computer.

1/2" x 5/8" tubing, if soft enough, wouldn't do this. Right?

As I asked in the title of this thread, has anybody here ever used Monsoon brand compressions? Are they of good quality in construction and finish? Do they work as easily as advertised?

I'm also looking for a 1/2" I.D., high-flow petcock, preferably metal, to use at the bottom of my loop so I can drain it regularly. Any ideas on the best?
 

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I'm unsure about the quality of them, though they do look nice.

Regarding the compression ring, it's really no different than all other compression fittings. Sure, they may not have a stop on the fitting itself, but screwing the ring on a typical compression fitting also tries to turn the base. It's really not that big of deal as long as you don't overtighten the fitting in the first place. Maybe I'm luck, and probably now jinxing myself, but in the several times I've rebuilt my rig, I have not had one leak.
 

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Monsoon, Ive heard of them, yet i havent heard much about them. In my opinion the overall build quality looks low, but then again it is wery difficult determining that from pictures alone. If you are insecure go with a more known brand, such as bitspower, swiftech or ek(cant realy go much wrong with those).

When screwing in your fitting and tubing(cap), just make it finger tight(do not use force). The O-ring will form a watertight seal on the bottom of the fitting, while the tubing will do the same between the fitting and the cap. I'd recomend you try installing a couple of fittings beforehand just to test out how much force you need and are comfortable with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoid.srg View Post

Monsoon, Ive heard of them, yet i havent heard much about them. In my opinion the overall build quality looks low, but then again it is wery difficult determining that from pictures alone. If you are insecure go with a more known brand, such as bitspower, swiftech or ek(cant realy go much wrong with those).
When screwing in your fitting and tubing(cap), just make it finger tight(do not use force). The O-ring will form a watertight seal on the bottom of the fitting, while the tubing will do the same between the fitting and the cap. I'd recomend you try installing a couple of fittings beforehand just to test out how much force you need and are comfortable with.
I've been using Bitspower. With 3 upcoming loops to build I was looking for something a little easier on my fingers.

I'm really interested in how all you people manage to keep the bottom, barbed part of these fittings, the part with the o-ring, from overtightening, while tightening the caps down. That's still a complete mystery to me.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kzinti1 View Post

I've been using Bitspower. With 3 upcoming loops to build I was looking for something a little easier on my fingers.
I'm really interested in how all you people manage to keep the bottom, barbed part of these fittings, the part with the o-ring, from overtightening, while tightening the caps down. That's still a complete mystery to me.
It wouldn't be any different than other compression fittings. Just need to be careful with the wrench they give you.
 

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Well i will be changing out my radiator soon and i think i will give these fittings a try.

Has anyone personally tried them yet?
 

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I have been eye balling these for a little while now.... was going to use the blue ones on my up coming XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 build... I was planning on using them instead of the supplied barbs....

Would these fittings and tubing be compatible?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14947/ex-tub-1121/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Single_Blue_FCC-1234-1P-BL.html?tl=g30c409s1033

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12801/ex-tub-836/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716_ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_White_PFLEXP10-758-W.html?tl=g30c99s809

The ID would work, but the OD is my biggest concern... any thoughts?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybutcher View Post

With compression fittings, you want the same IDxOD as the tubing.
Ah ok. I have always used the barbs and have to always have to use the smaller tubing. Thanks a lot.
 

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I have to say, im pretty excited about these fittings. I will most likely grab a set and do a full (half assed) review.

Yippie
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here's a thread I just found over at xtremesystems, http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?278573-Monsoon-Free-Center-Compression-Fittings#top.

I believe the thread starter, BoxGods, is the owner/designer of Monsoon Open Center Fittings.

Many pics and links in that thread.

Also, 45 and 90 degree fittings are upcoming. Judging by the date of the OP, these should be available in a week or two. Maybe even now.

There are almost too many colors and my color coordination sucks!

I just ordered one of Swiftechs new MCP35X2 Pumps in white, http://www.swiftech.com/MCP35x2PUMP.aspx. Here's a review of it at MARTINSLIQUIDLAB.org, http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/. If it's Martins new favorite then I'm sure it'll be mine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would tell you that this is a beautiful build, but you know that already. Still, those are the best pics of a DD Torture Rack I've ever seen.

In the video's on the site I posted, there seemed to be no way to keep the fittings from overtightening on the blocks.

Did the o-rings crush when you tightened the caps over the hoses?

Swiftech has a new line of compressions coming out in a few weeks.

I think I'll wait a little longer and see what they look like, and especially how much they'll cost.

What brand of rad is the thickest one? Looks like a good old ThermoChill.

I wish I'd bought a case of ThermoChill's while they were still available.

Their site is still up, http://www.thermochill.com/, but practically no info is given.

I can't find anybody that still sells them.
 

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No, there is a recess in the bottom of the fitting designed in so you can tighten them in until they stop. Very few fittings anymore don't have that...you can tighten them down without any oring crushing worry.

I cranked them down no problem.

Using the tool does take a little practice and getting use to and it does still take holding the hose as you tighten the compression ring or the tube can spin a bit on the base. They generally worked like other compressions except you have a tool to tighten the ring. The ring is perhaps a bit more tight on the hose than other compression fittings I have used, but in the end the ring held the tubing on extremely snug. I don't usually try to spin the rings off when removing compression fittings and rather pry the tubing out from under the ring. This avoids having the base spin off issue that I get with all compression fittings. These actually have a special gripper base that is designed to help reduce that when fully tightened but I didn't really want to tighten them down that much. Anyhow..they did a really good job holding the tube in place. I had to move my rig across the state and in and out of the LAN...also it took some work to pry the tubing out on removal.

Overall I really like the way they look, I like having a tool, and I like how well they hold the tubing but they don't necessarily make installation and removal faster or easier..they just save the skin on your fingers and provide a different look. Probably one of the bigger benefits is all the color options these come in. I think there is something like 10 different colors to choose from. That's something very unique in fittings.

I may order a batch of green to play with next time I order something. I'm a bit fond of my Kawasaki Green..it matches my KX500 so well..
biggrin.gif
 
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