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Asrock X370 Taichi Overclocking Thread

1599364 Views 10227 Replies 649 Participants Last post by  Czarcastic
Here it is, the Asrock X370 Taichi Overclocking Thread. Post here your results and share information regarding this awesome mainboard.

I just flashed the latest Bios V2.0 and still cannot go over 3200Mhz on my G-Skill Trident 3200 C14. Tried to overclock it with FSB at 103Mhz but PC keeps rebooting

Did anybody manage to achieve 3200+?

my current set up:

http://valid.x86.fr/f3rplr

Cine R5: 1774
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@quicknick I got a similar issue when upgrading this board from Ryzen 1700 to Ryzen 3800X.
All went well but the 2 processors are seen by Windows 10 as different and it needs a fresh install of W10.
I was mad at it but after loosing a lot of time I did a new fresh W10 install.
I do not use fTPM or Bitlocker and never get the message about them.
 

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At this point I'm out of ideas, I don't know if the systems gets stuck that way because it doesn't like my Windows install (might test that tomorrow, by trying a new Windows install on some spare SSD), or the board is not really compatible with 5000-series. Wouldn't surprise me too much, as my previous board (AsRock 880G Extreme-3) claimed to be AM3+ compatible with the latest BIOS, but trying to upgrade to a FX-series CPU resulted in strange behaviour / unusable system, so back to my trusty Phenom I was...
You didn't tell us what version of windows you are using on there? That matters. Are you using windows 10? Are you trying to use windows 11? Do you want to upgrade to windows 11 or stay on 10?
 

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Thanks for the replies. I know I should've been more clear - I'm using Windows 10 and I'd have liked to keep my install, but it seems this is a futile attempt.

Today was a case of heaven&hell for me, because at some point I managed to boot my existing install.
For that, with the 1700X installed I did the following:

  • "Clear TPM" via tpm.msc from Windows
  • disable TPM in UEFI, save settings. Windows still booting fine.

Then I shut down to swap the CPUs, Windows boots no problem from first attempt. Then I successfully restarted a few times - to fit all the sticks of RAM, to bring them to rated speed (hit 3200 from first try, which was impossible for 5 and a half years with the 1700X + 2.40 bios). Did some benchmarking, played around a bit, but after a couple of hours or so I needed to shut down the system, to add the second fan to the Noctua cooler, tidy things up, close the case and move it back beside the desk where it belongs.

Big surprise, instead of shutting down the system entered the locked state where fans howl and your only choice is to pull the power!

Further attempts to start failed, at some point there was a "Starting automatic repair" message but after a few seconds it locked again. So I'm back with the 1700X and really don't know how to solve this. I'll try a fresh install on a spare SSD and report back.
 

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Further attempts to start failed, at some point there was a "Starting automatic repair" message but after a few seconds it locked again. So I'm back with the 1700X and really don't know how to solve this. I'll try a fresh install on a spare SSD and report back.
It is at this point that I suggest you remember to load the system defaults in bios with the 5900X installed and restart with F10 then once you get into bios find and disable all references to TPM. If you aren't using windows 11 and you aren't using BitLocker (probably not because the 1700X and the old bios wouldn't of supported that anyway) then you don't need the TPM at all and just disable any and all reference to it in bios. I'm too busy in my morning right now to boot my system with the X370 Taichi and find where the TPM settings are exactly but if you still need help later today I can go look for you.
 

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This looks more and more to be un-solvable.

Swapped back to the 5900X, cleared the CMOS, removed my NVMe boot drive and connected a SATA SSD that I had lying around. Started Windows 10 installation from (freshly-created) USB stick, cleared all the partitions that were present on the SSD and during the install the system restarted a few times. At one of the restarts everything locked with the already well-known symptoms. Forced the restart a few times by power cycling the PSU, a few times the "Attempting automatic repair" appeared but in a few seconds it would lock again.

Cleared the CMOS again then tried installing Windows 11 from USB. Again removed all partitions, and this time it was more clear-cut: the system hung right after the first restart (when Windows announces the reboot in 10 seconds and you can bring it forward by pressing OK). Cycled power a few times, no "Auto repair" or any other message, just hangs after about 2 seconds of that Windows-thingy spinning.

Put back the 1700X and NVMe drive and everything automagically works, no matter the UEFI settings. Defaults or not, TPM or not. My old Windows 10 install from the spring of 2017, that I carried over from a previous board (had a Gigabyte B350 Gaming 3 before switching to the TaiChi).

At this point I'm almost sure that this board just wasted two days of my life, and unless some miracle BIOS shows up over the weekend I'll be on the lookout for a new board. If anyone has suggestions about a cheap but ok-ish B550 board please shout. Any brand but Asrock.
 

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At this point I'm almost sure that this board just wasted two days of my life, and unless some miracle BIOS shows up over the weekend I'll be on the lookout for a new board. If anyone has suggestions about a cheap but ok-ish B550 board please shout. Any brand but Asrock.
I'm starting to think the issue is something to do with your ram and being compatible with the 5900X. Exactly what ram do you have? Do you know the model? What clock speed is it? What clock speeds are you trying to run it at? Are you leaving the system settings at defaults in the bios after loading defaults? Are you trying to change the ram speed after loading defaults? It could be that you have very old ram that's not actually compatible with the 5000 series. I had an issue like that with my 5800X + X570 system when I first built it.
 

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RAM model is CMK16GX4M2B3200C16. That's a 2x8GB kit, and I have two identical kits installed for a total of 32GB.

How I ended with this config is another long story, but basically my first Ryzen board was the Gigabyte Gaming 3 and initially I had one such kit (16GB) but it wouldn't run anywhere near its rated speed so I returned the kit and bought another one instead (HyperX Dominator, maybe?) that was on the QVL list for that board. And guess what, it ran worse than the Corsair!

So again I returned the kit (guys at the store weren't happy to see me :D ) and instead bought two kits of the Corsair. "If I can't have fast ram, at least I'll have much ram".

The Windows 10 install attempt was with bios defaults but RAM bumped to XMP profile (3200MHz, 1.35V).

Windows 11 attempt was with everything on default ([email protected]).

What do you suggest, try another brand/model of ram? I guess I can return it if it doesn't solve the problems, the guys at the store surely can't remember me after more than 5 years :))

I'll want to stay at the 32GB mark, should I go for 2 or 4 sticks to achieve that?
 

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What do you suggest, try another brand/model of ram? I guess I can return it if it doesn't solve the problems, the guys at the store surely can't remember me after more than 5 years :))

I'll want to stay at the 32GB mark, should I go for 2 or 4 sticks to achieve that?
I'll look into my X370 Taichi computer here in a little while and compare some bios settings and then see if we can get you going. I think you just might need to get some volt settings set right and that might smooth it out for you. I just got home after running around town for many hours. Once things settle down at home here I'll have time to boot my other computer and look into this for you and write back. But don't totally give up on this system just yet.

EDIT: Okay I have some time to look at this for you. First with the 5900X installed I want you to try installing only 1 of the CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 sticks of ram alone with no other memory in the system at all. This should go in slot A_1 (see the diagram below from the manual) and then once you get into bios go to the OC Tweaker menu, find "SOC Voltage (VID)" and manually set it to 1.100v, then move down and find DRAM Voltage and make sure this is manually set to 1.35v (just in case the XMP Profile doesn't set the voltage for some reason) then go to the "External Voltage Settings and Load-Line Calibration" menu. Under this sub-menu find "VDDCR_SOC Voltage" -> Fixed mode -> Set it to 1.1000v too. On this same menu also locate "VDDCR_SOC Load-Line Calibration" -> set it to "Level 1". Then down below that find "VTT_DDR" and set this to 0.810v, then try and load the XMP profile for your ram. See if this works out for you.

If this works, and seems stable and everything seems to work THEN shut down and add another stick of ram to slot B1, start up, try to run windows (your old install too) and try a few things. After trying this with two sticks of ram and if things seem to work then shut down and add a 3rd stick of ram to slot A2, and try that for a while. Very slowly step through this and make sure it's stable with each stick of ram before you go "full hog" with all 4 sticks.

Font Parallel Rectangle Number Electric blue
 

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Thank you for your time and patience.

Again swapped the CPUs, resetting the CMOS at the same time.
Removed ALL the RAM just to see how it behaves, if it will enter the "frozen with turbo fans" state. It didn't, just politely beeping from the speaker.
I also removed the NVMe drive and reconnected the SATA SSD because I'd like to leave my old install out of the equation.

After this I installed a single stick of RAM and followed your instructions in detail regarding the voltages.

Started anew with a W10 install, passed the bit where you set region and language, then left the room for some minutes. Found the system tits-up when I returned. I guess it reached the point of first restart and that was it. "Works as intended".

Forced restart, wanted to check if the voltage settings held up, pressed F2 at the right moment but it locked before entering the UEFI setup. I think that's a first.

Again power off from PSU, I disconnected the SSD and BluRay drives, was able to enter UEFI, voltages and LLC were as you advised, RAM running at 3200.

I booted a USB stick with memtest86 v10.0, it's now at 2nd pass without errors, and I have a hunch that this will be true even with all 4 DIMMs populated.

At moments I remember how I thought this would be an easy upgrade :)
 

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New 7.30 bios in x370 PG , I suppose taichi has new bios too




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At moments I remember how I thought this would be an easy upgrade :)
I honestly don't know what to say at this point. There are quite a lot of comments in this thread from other users that just updated bios -> installed 5000 series processor -> they claimed they were just up and running and everything was smooth and awesome with no issues that they reported here. Yours is the first experience anyone has reported with this motherboard that responded in the way you described that I have seen in this forum thread. I'm hesitant to report this but I think at this point there might actually be something wrong with your board some how. Really you shouldn't be having this much difficulty.
 

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Midnight update (well, actually 1 hour past midnight for me):

Memtest-ing a single stick of RAM in slot A1 passed with flying colours.
Doing the same with all four slots filled - I kinda gave up after 3h40m, but no errors during that time and it completed 3 out of 4 passes.

Restarted the system and let it boot from the SATA drive that contained the last failed attempt to install W10. Setup continued and in a few minutes I was up and running in a fresh install, for the first time after this adventurous CPU upgrade.

At this point, wishful thinking got the better of me and I actually thought that the problem is solved and the culprit was the BD-RW drive. Crazy, but not crazier than a issue I encountered ~20 years ago where an Athlon XP system consistently froze because of a faulty mouse :)

First restart attempt brought me back to reality, though. Instead of restarting it just hung in there with fans roaring. But unlike yesterday, where I was unable to boot again into my old W10 install after the borked restart, today it managed to start the new install each time, and I even got to 4 working restarts in a row before one would fail again. Yay, record!

Disconnected the SATA drive and hooked my NVMe stick to the never-used-before slot (the one that isn't covered by the CPU cooler and I think is also slower... PCIe 2.0 maybe?) and guess what, I'm writing this from my old W10 install while in the background I have 24 'workers' of Prime95, none of which complains. HWiNFO reports 4.6GHz on all cores (isn't that much higher than it's supposed to be?) and a Tdie of around 75 deg.C so far. Also CPU-Z reports core #0 hovering at 4575 to 4600MHz.

All of this won't fool me again, and I'm aware that another 'failure to restart' is just around the corner. I think that's the best description of the problem. At each restart (and I think also at shutdowns) the motherboard spools the fans to the max for 1-2 seconds, and I guess what's happening now with the new CPU is that the process just hangs there.
Or maybe I'm just too tired and this doesn't make any sense and can't really explain what happened the other day where my old install wouldn't boot anymore after working just fine for about two hours.

Anyway, tomorrow I might be able to borrow some RAM from my dad, see if that changes anything.
 

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@quicknick "RAM model is CMK16GX4M2B3200C16"
I have the same RAM as you with 4 units.
It will never run at 3200 Mhz : with the 4 slots full you have to lower the speed (X370 chipset is rated to 2600 Mhz).
The best I got for now is 2800 Mhz with a 3800X and XMP profile activated in the bios.
 

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This means I've been very lucky so far, apart from the 5900X adventure :)

I ran all 4 sticks at 3066 since June 2017 (when BIOS 2.40 was released) until last Thursday (when the 5900X arrived), and that was their maximum. Attempting 3200 resulted in a boot loop, after which 3066 wasn't achievable again without a CMOS reset. I believe I posted about the matter in this thread, back in the day.

Now, after upgrading to BIOS 7.10, I can run all 4 of them at 3200 with either CPU, so that's a plus.

Starting to believe that the problem I'm encountering with the 5900X isn't RAM-related, since it strikes even when I'm using a single DIMM at default speed (2133)
 

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I ran all 4 sticks at 3066 since June 2017 (when BIOS 2.40 was released) until last Thursday (when the 5900X arrived), and that was their maximum. Attempting 3200 resulted in a boot loop, after which 3066 wasn't achievable again without a CMOS reset. I believe I posted about the matter in this thread, back in the day.
Just to note that with relaxing the other timings, I could push my nominal 3000 DIMMs to 3733, with the attendant Infinity Fabric benefits, on a 5900x. I'll guess that if I played with the voltages, I could push to 3800. That's on 4 DIMMS - using the 1usmus DRAM calculator and then tuning down from the relaxed settings till it stopped booting.
 

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Thinking of doing one last AM4 upgrade to 5800x3d. Currently on 3800x. Just wanted to ask if I would be "missing out" on any major performance since using the x370 taichi that I would get if I used a b550 or x570 mobo instead. Thanks!
 

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Thinking of doing one last AM4 upgrade to 5800x3d. Currently on 3800x. Just wanted to ask if I would be "missing out" on any major performance since using the x370 taichi that I would get if I used a b550 or x570 mobo instead. Thanks!
The only "loss" would come from PCI Gen4 slots with an ultra hi-end gpu (even a 3090Ti/6950XT won't saturate the bus) or/and gen4 nvme.

Apart from that and some lower end audio chip on the X370T, I don't think you'll miss anything really important.
 

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Starting to believe that the problem I'm encountering with the 5900X isn't RAM-related, since it strikes even when I'm using a single DIMM at default speed (2133)
Something seems to be wrong with your sata/nvme configuration, maybe along a csm/secure boot issue.

My settings (win 10pro on a ssd, a gen3 nvme on the upper slot, 4 more ssds/hdds), check your BIOS settings if you like.

Boot Options: Fast boot: Disabled

Security/Secure Boot: Secure boot: Disabled

Advanced/AMD PBS:
PCIe/GFX Lanes Config: x16
Next 3 options: Disabled
PCIe x16 Speed: Gen3
M.2 PCIe Speed: Gen3
Next 3 options: Auto

Also, check your Dram voltage. When I clear cmos, I can't boot the pc with 2 mem sticks since the default 1.2V setting is not enough (or it's not working as it should). I have to remove 1 stick, boot, get into bios, set the voltage to anything >1.25V, shut down, put in the other stick and then everything will work as it should. You may want to up the Dram voltage a bit, even if XMP/dram calc suggest otherwise.

You should also check if "IF Frequency and Dividers" is properly working. If left on "auto", sometimes it gets to 1:2:2 instead of 1:1:1 (half your ram speed). It's not related to your problems, but it's something worth checking.
 

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@sane? - I might try and go past 3200 with my RAM, but first I have to find out what's keeping my system from (re)starting successfully each time.

Last night I threw everything at my computer and it ran like a champ. Even managed five restarts before I finally shut it down.
Today it started ok, I did my stuff, and before shutting it down I tried a restart. It hung again, and wouldn't start again if I power-cycled.
I was greeted with "Preparing automatic repair", then "Diagnosing your PC", then offered the choice of restarting or going advanced. Not much I could do on advanced, so I restarted only for it to hang again, and so on.

Entered BIOS to check @Dekaohtoura's settings and they matched except for the PCIe speeds which were set to Auto instead of Gen3. Also upped the RAM voltage a bit, from 1.350 to 1.375 volts, saved, again Automatic repair (because of the previous failed start I assume) but after the restart here I am again in my old Win installation. I'm not imagining the problem is solved, it just randomly decided to work.

While we're at it, I noticed that the CSM is enabled. Is that the right setting for it?
Also, I believe W10 can be installed and used on non-UEFI systems, would there be a way to force such a "legacy" installation on the Taichi? If so, would there be any drawbacks in terms of performance, stability, security?

@foxreinhold - if you don't run into weird issues like it happened to me, the performance is definitely there. Here's my GeekBench score:
X370 Taichi - Geekbench Browser
And here's a friend of mine with the same CPU but in a prebuilt Alienware system:
Alienware Alienware Aurora Ryzen Edition R14 - Geekbench Browser

As you can see, I'm almost 20% faster, despite slower and smaller RAM.
 
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