[Dekaohtoura]

Also upped the RAM voltage a bit, from 1.350 to 1.375 volts

Set it on 1.38-1.40, your modules can take it. If/when you get to a stable condition, you can start reducing the voltage.

How's your CLDO VDDP/VDDG CCD/VDDG IOD/VSOC settings? If they're on "Auto", you should probably use manual and get to something like 0.95/1.05/1.05/1.10 respectively.

 

[quicknick]

Risked a restart to put in the values suggested by @Dekaohtoura, saved them but no boot after that. Not because of the values, but because something's very off with my system.

New development: it's happening from within Windows, too. First time when I started Hwinfo64, second time when I tried to play some DotA.

Thank you everyone for the help, but I ran out of patience. Ordering a new motherboard.

 

[Dekaohtoura]

Thank you everyone for the help, but I ran out of patience. Ordering a new motherboard.

Are you sure it's not a cpu problem? You've already said that your with old processor everything works fine.

 

[quicknick]

This crossed my mind, but I've nowhere to test it. New motherboard should provide some answers

 

[Dekaohtoura]

This crossed my mind, but I've nowhere to test it. New motherboard should provide some answers

Pfffft...I really hope the new mobo does it for you.

Keep us on the loop, please.

 

[killatwill]

This crossed my mind, but I've nowhere to test it. New motherboard should provide some answers

I guess we both are hit by crap because I'm having the exact same problem as you, personally I'm going to see if reinstalling windows and reflashing the bios will help

Upgrade from 1700 - 3700x, but I didn't know it wasn't just drop in and forgot, so tpm and other fun stuff was still on, mind you , I can drop my old cpu and everything will work, but nothing works with the 3700x. My 5 year old 3200mhz 2x16gb won't post, not even on one dimm, but it works fine in my brother's PC where it is, my system is currently running right now on one of his 8gb 3200mhz, but once I put the second one it, it will boot loop, I am at my wits end with this thing also and I have been at it for two days

 

[killatwill]

Oh and as a side note, I have also reflashed the bios and used 1 dimm in each slot, they all post, except when 2 are put in

 

[DR4G00N]

Swapped out my 1700 for a 5600 yesterday. No issues at all, just changed it over, cleared cmos and it worked great.
Even played around with it to get that 200MHz higher boost.

 

[quicknick]

I'm back with an update. Sorry for the long post, I'm trying to bring all the relevant details.

Tuesday the new motherboard arrived, it's an Asus Prime X570-P (at first I ordered the MSI MEG B550 Tomahawk but it would arrive early December so I canceled that and went for something that was in stock). Installed it, connected everything, equipped all four DIMMs, no POST. No beep, nothing. At least fans don't go stormy and long-pressing the power button is able to shutdown the machine. I tried many times, and a few attempts gave me some beeps. Sometimes long-short-short, other times just the first (long) one. But not the normal POST beep, which is lower in tone and more pleasant, as I later found. Nothing was displayed on screen during these attempts.

Started disconnecting things, and it seemed not to like one of my front case fans, as it POST-ed with it disconnected, only to go back to no POST when I reconnected it. But this was just another chaotic and nonsense behaviour, as further tries resulted in POST with the fan connected as well as no-POST with it disconnected...

After maybe one hour of frustration, although haven't identified a cause for all this, I got it to consistently POST so I refined some BIOS settings, enabled the DOCP or whatever Asus calls the XMP, 3200MHz seemed to work just fine, closed the case and moved it on the floor, where it usually stays. Again, no POST. Put it back on the bench in horisontal position, all ok. Back on the floor, tower position, not ok.

Ok, damn you, back on the bench but in tower position. Wouldn't POST. After a number of power-offs (via power button long press) the following screen appeared:

http://imgur.com/a/jbmDu5X

Which seemed to suggest that it doesn't like the memory @3200...
I really should have written down all that happened, because I cannot remember if after this I let it at the default 2133 or brought it to 3200 one more time , but anyway soon it was back to non-POST-ing. Again, it seemed that disconnecting three things - SATA cable towards the BD-RW and the USB 2.0 and 3.0 cables that go to the front panel would solve the problem, because it would work after that. I used it like that for the rest of the evening without further problems (at this stage I'm sure the memory speed was 2133, although most certainly automatically set by the BIOS when it presented me the "POSTed in safe mode" screen, which I saw 2 or 3 times until then. Restarted Windows a lot just to check and it all went smoothly.

Wednesday I had a busy day, but still managed to be around the computer for some time. Starting, restarting, shutting down, everything ok. Moved it on the floor and it still worked
Got the RAM to 3200 and it passed a full memtest:

http://imgur.com/a/u3yX77k

When I got back in the evening I used the computer a lot, benching, gaming, everything perfect.

Today I also used the PC a lot, then towards the evening moved the PC back to the bench and used my multimeter to thoroughly check the front USB 2.0/3.0 wiring/connectors and found nothing wrong. No shorts, no high-resistance paths between individual pins. So I connected them back to the motherboard. Can you guess what followed? No POST! Two times in a row I got the long-short-short beeps, then nothing. Restarted maybe 20 times and the "POSTed in safe mode" wouldn't appear any more. I noticed the fans on the video card behaving strangely:

Thought maybe it went bad somehow, but there was no beep even when I removed the video card!

I finally did get it to "POST in safe mode" after I started removing DIMMs and I was down to the last one... Quickly installed its pair, set them back to 3200 because that's the speed they're supposed to work, and here I am typing this at close to 4 a.m.

I'll make a last attempt to solve this by getting some new RAM, which will have to play nice with the 5900X on the TaiChi board. Yes, the Asus will go back to the store because of awful fan control and annoying active cooling on the chipset. Also, if the "simple upgrade" (yeah) I dreamed of turns out to be comprised of CPU+MoBo+RAM (instead of just the CPU), maybe it would've been better to jump directly to AM5 and maybe spare me this pain...

So please advice me what RAM kit to get ([email protected] I think, but brand? and 2 or 4 modules?). Thanks!

 

[valerianf]

You seem to be turning around the DDR behavior.
Make a simple test: go to the bios, select the slowest non XMP speed available in the DDR profile and test if all the system is booting well.
If it is booting well and stable: run the DDR at low speed until you by a new set more performant.
If it is not booting properly, it is that the issue is elsewhere.
For your tests with 2 different motherboards, it does not seem that the X370 Taichi is faulty.
Good luck.

 

[kithylin]

So please advice me what RAM kit to get ([email protected] I think, but brand? and 2 or 4 modules?). Thanks!

First off if you haven't already you absolutely need to update the bios to the latest one for that X570 motherboard before you do anything else. Make sure you load system defaults in bios BEFORE trying the update to try and make sure it won't crash. If that doesn't solve it for you then I'm serious: Disconnect the front panel power switch and see if that solves your problem. Sometimes there's a short in that and it might make the system soft turn off after turning on.

 

[quicknick]

Make a simple test: go to the bios, select the slowest non XMP speed available in the DDR profile and test if all the system is booting well.

Agreed, done that on the TaiChi and there were still a ton of problems with just a single DIMM at 2133MHz. Does this still apply now, with the new mainboard, if the system is perfectly OK with the memory at 3200MHz most of the time, only to act up at seemingly random times? I'm genuinely curious, is that the new reality with Ryzen (and, maybe, current CPUs from intel)? Because back in the good old days, things were clear cut. It either worked, or it didn't. Is the same RAM able to pass no matter how many rounds of memtest, hours of Prime95, then fail to POST next day?

Slowest non-XMP is 2133MHz, but when do I consider the problem solved? The system was flawless for almost two days with RAM at 3200, maybe at 2133 it will be also flawless for 5 days or one month before again failing to POST...

First off if you haven't already you absolutely need to update the bios to the latest one for that X570 motherboard before you do anything else. Make sure you load system defaults in bios BEFORE trying the update to try and make sure it won't crash. If that doesn't solve it for you then I'm serious: Disconnect the front panel power switch and see if that solves your problem. Sometimes there's a short in that and it might make the system soft turn off after turning on.

Updated today to version 4408, released this Tuesday - fan control is still awful, fans are ramping up every few seconds, tracking every temperature spike in any of the cores. There's an option to delay the ramp up/down but it doesn't do anything.

As for stability (successful POST at every attempt, better said), how can I assess that? I'm down at two DIMMs (16GB) at the moment, POST fail might never happen again, or things could get ugly again just after my RMA window closes.

During yesterday's prolonged no-POST episode I went full paranoid and disconnected everything from the board, except the power supply and the CPU and rear case fans and it still wouldn't POST when I used a jumper to short the PWRSW pins. Also multimeter-checked the Power and Reset switches and there's nothing wrong with them.

Didn't mention it in the first post, but during the initial troubles with the Asus board I also swapped the PSU. I wish I had another brand/model, but the one I had available is (almost) identical to the original one - SuperFlower Leadex Gold 650W, though they seem to be two different revisions as the replacement is around 1cm/half an inch longer.

I think the next test (tomorrow?) will see the TaiChi+5900X back in the system, but with another memory. For starters I'll use a 16GB kit from my father's PC, and if it changes something in terms of compatibility/chances to successfully restart, I'll go for a new kit of RAM.

 

[kithylin]

I think the next test (tomorrow?) will see the TaiChi+5900X back in the system, but with another memory. For starters I'll use a 16GB kit from my father's PC, and if it changes something in terms of compatibility/chances to successfully restart, I'll go for a new kit of RAM.

You seem to have some wild circumstances that are in no way normal for any of the systems you've tested and I'm not quite sure why. Are you sure there's no bent/broken-off pins on the CPU or something?

 

[quicknick]

You seem to have some wild circumstances that are in no way normal for any of the systems you've tested and I'm not quite sure why. Are you sure there's no bent/broken-off pins on the CPU or something?

The 5900X looks perfectly fine, no bent or missing pins. Could it be that it's missing some bits internally

Kind of expected my dad not to have high-end RAM, but what I found still surprised me. A kit of HyperX Fury HX421C14FBK2/16. That's 2133MHz, folks! Okay, very bad, but at least it's different from what I have.

I had to postpone testing with these because I had to complete another job - assembling some cables for a Seasonic Prime PX-850 80+Platinum, a PSU that I got for next to nothing, but with all the cables missing. Job done, so all testing was done with this PSU - the third since starting my 5900X (mis)adventure. Post #1089 from the Repository Of Power Supply Pinouts on this forum helped me to a great extent

With the TaiChi back in the case, 5900X and Fury RAM, everything was sweet in BIOS, but when it tried to load Windows it hung with the already well-known symptoms. Fans at max speed, Power/Reset buttons acting like they are disconnected from the motherboard.

Tried everything I could think of. Reduced the memory speed to the minimum allowed by the motherboard, 1866 or so. Increased the RAM voltage to 1.35, although clearly not needed for such a low speed. Played with enabling/disabling TPM, CSM and other security stuff. Removed the NVMe and tried to install a fresh Windows on the spare SATA SSD - all well until the first restart. Not even one successful Windows desktop with the HyperX Fury.

Swapped the RAM for one of my Corsair kits, and actually the botched Windows install completed successfully. "Might be the RAM after all" - no, it just randomly happened. Just one lucky Windows boot, everything back to usual after I tried to restart. Again tried everything - down to one single DIMM in slot A2 as the manual recommends. Voltage up to 1.4, speed at default 2133. Used the secure erase SSD function from BIOS and tried a new fresh install - dead at first restart as expected. Moved video card to the other slot. Tried another video card, one so old that I'm ashamed to name it - UEFI didn't recognize it (5 beeps) then proceeded to load Windows and hung (could tell by the fans howling + buttons not working). Tried without any video card - same thing.

All the stoppages happened at the same point - one or two seconds after the "circle made of dots" thingie - the "please wait" sign of Windows 10. Can't really tell about the instances without video card, but I'm pretty sure it happened at the same point

I'm not immune to noob mistakes, but I'm pretty confident I haven't made any. There are no motherboard stand-offs where they shouldn't be, shorting something out. No half-inserted connectors, all golden fingers cleaned regularly with tissue+iso alcohol, dust blown from slots. With the 1700X back under the heatsink, everything just works. No matter the BIOS settings, CSM TPM *** or FFS, Windows just loads and I'm good to go...

Asus Prime X570P is already back in the box ready to be returned, question is - do I do the same for the CPU, or maybe give it one more try with a new kit of, let's say, G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB 3600MHz? The problems encountered on the Asus board - not starting until I removed 3 out of 4 DIMMs - suggest memory-related problems. Could the new CPU be so finicky about RAM that it's refusing to work with my Corsair kits (mostly on the TaiChi) and be outright offended when I try to pair it with the HyperX 2133MHz sticks?

 

[keikei]

Hey guys, so i'm trying to update to 7.1 & I managed to flash to 7.0. Just about to go to 7.1, I get the message to disable fTMP & suspend Bitlocker in the bios. Do I disregard this or do I need further steps & follow the instructions? I'm attempting to upgrade to a 5900X soon. Thanks.

 

[walk-e]

Hello everyone, I got a spankin new 5800x3d on the way. Very excite! I'm currently sitting on 1700x and 3.20 BIOS. Yep, 3.20... to think if I had just flashed up to 5 or 6 I could have probably been enjoying my 3200 B-dies this whole time that I paid through the nose for, oh well 🙃. Anyway, I know BIOS updating has been covered to death here but I just want to be extra safe with such a critical step and I've only seen one other that was maybe as out dated as mine.

My plan is to get the files on a flash drive, jump to 3.30 first then shoot for 7.0, then 7.10 with CMOS clearing before and after each flash, all with the 1700x in. Once on 7.10 ill shut down and pop in the 5800 (and then reinstall win10 if it will POST, I suppose). Is there anything I'm missing or does anyone have any recommendations? I'm also curious about the "disable fTMP and Bitlocker" thing mentioned in the post before mine in case I run into that. Thanks for any help! The info gained reading through this thread has been great, much appreciated

 

[kithylin]

Hello everyone, I got a spankin new 5800x3d on the way. Very excite! I'm currently sitting on 1700x and 3.20 BIOS. Yep, 3.20... to think if I had just flashed up to 5 or 6 I could have probably been enjoying my 3200 B-dies this whole time that I paid through the nose for, oh well 🙃. Anyway, I know BIOS updating has been covered to death here but I just want to be extra safe with such a critical step and I've only seen one other that was maybe as out dated as mine.

My plan is to get the files on a flash drive, jump to 3.30 first then shoot for 7.0, then 7.10 with CMOS clearing before and after each flash, all with the 1700x in. Once on 7.10 ill shut down and pop in the 5800 (and then reinstall win10 if it will POST, I suppose). Is there anything I'm missing or does anyone have any recommendations? I'm also curious about the "disable fTMP and Bitlocker" thing mentioned in the post before mine in case I run into that. Thanks for any help! The info gained reading through this thread has been great, much appreciated

I only mentioned disabling fTPM and BitLocker things because that one user was (for some reason I still don't understand) having problems with those things turned on. Those are security features to be able to use Windows 11 and/or to use Windows BitLocker. If you aren't planning to use windows 11 (I wouldn't recommend it .. I'm staying on 10 for a LONG time myself) and you don't use Windows BitLocker then there's no need to have those things enabled. Normally they shouldn't cause you any problems but if you do have any issues you can disable them.

 

[keikei]

I only mentioned disabling fTPM and BitLocker things because that one user was (for some reason I still don't understand) having problems with those things turned on. Those are security features to be able to use Windows 11 and/or to use Windows BitLocker. If you aren't planning to use windows 11 (I wouldn't recommend it .. I'm staying on 10 for a LONG time myself) and you don't use Windows BitLocker then there's no need to have those things enabled. Normally they shouldn't cause you any problems but if you do have any issues you can disable them.

I'm on Win10, so basically I can just disregard then?

 

[kithylin]

I'm on Win10, so basically I can just disregard then?

If you are not using Windows BitLocker and do not intend to use it then yes. But if you wanted to later switch to Windows 11 then you would have to go enable them again.

I did want to take this moment to remind everyone of one thing: Even though this X370 Taichi system supports the 5000 series processors officially now we still will have reduced functionality while using those processors in these older X370 motherboards. We won't have access to PCI-Express 4.0 being the main thing and these older chipset motherboards won't run at as high of a memory clock as the newer X570 motherboards would. I don't yet know what the actual upper limits of X370 are but my X570 system with a 5800X has been running with it's ram at 3800 Mhz for over a year now and that will never be possible in any X370 system. If folks are going to continue running an X370 system I would recommend they stay with at max a 3200 Mhz 14-14-14 set of ram for the X370 system and be happy with that. And using just 2 sticks of ram is going to be the best compatibility wise.

Here's some examples:
16GB

G.SKILL Flare X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) AMD X370 / B350 Memory (Desktop Memory) Model F4-3200C14D-16GFX - Newegg.com

Buy G.SKILL Flare X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) AMD X370 / B350 Memory (Desktop Memory) Model F4-3200C14D-16GFX with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!

www.newegg.com

32GB

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C14D-32GTZR - Newegg.com

Buy G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C14D-32GTZR with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!

www.newegg.com

 

[jdub90]

@kithylin
I haven't had an issue running higher mem clocks on my 3900x (previous cpu) or my 5800x3d.
This is 100% stable and I could go on the memory clocks if I was willing to up the SOC voltage (currently at 1V):