[iamwardicus]

Well I'm going to have a small financial windfall coming from a split lottery ticket - Going to use part of it to rebuild the PC and I need some advice. Ryzen, Broadwell-E, and I'm entertaining the thought of Threadripper

I'm trying to keep my upgrade to under $3500 so I can payoff some debt with the remaining funds
I'm currently looking at the following base components:

Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory (Low profile due to considering the R1 Ultimate as an air cooler)
Storage: Western Digital - Black PCIe 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Case: Thermaltake - Core X9 ATX Desktop Case (I want a horizontal mount cube case - and my CaseLabs I want is $550 - I'm going to be smart and save some funding..... sadly.... LOVE my wifes Magnum case!)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit

Existing Parts: GTX 1070, Several hard drives, Audio Gear, Monitors - All going to be transplanted over

What I need help with is the CPU & Cooling solution. (Motherboard choices are pretty easy once the processor is figured out - best VRM & support - EATX compatibility is supported with my case choice)

For cooling I'm either going to use the Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Noctua D15 if I go air.
If I go AIO Water - what would be the recommended 360mm solution?
I'm not interested in Custom Loop water - Been there before and while it's AMAZING for performance, I HATE the upkeep and don't want to go that route.

I'm wondering if sticking with Ryzen, 6850k, or even Threadripper 1920 - would be better. I'd like to be >= 4.0 all around (I like my snappy computer)

Ryzen is only using dual channel memory and we know that memory compatibility can be flakey (but it is better than it was at release). Great Multi threaded performance. Drop in replacement next gen.
Broadwell-E is just older but still a good tech IMO. Better single threaded performance and better overclocking. Soldered IHS IIRC.

If I entertain the thought of Threadripper my build cost will go up and while it'd be great bragging rights I know the $$$ isn't worth it for my particular uses - unless developers start doing multi threaded coding for games.
My other issue with Threadripper is cooling the beast. The only AIO I'm considering is the Enermax TR4 one which I cannot find availability on - or the Noctua tower coolers which would never work out since I intend to overclock.
The other benefit similar to Ryzen - is drop in compatibility with the next gen processor. Definitely a long term benefit.

My uses are gaming (Mostly Blizzard games - but I've a pretty big Steam library too that I play with) and running a lot of Simcraft. Threadripper would probably get me back into some [email protected] XD
I'm aiming to keep this PC going for at least 4-6 years so longevity is a consideration.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[iamwardicus]

Changed my mind after a couple nights of reading & researching. Looking at Intel purely due to the better single thread performance and higher clock speeds. Still looking to have a 8c/16t system like I do now, it'll just be MUCH faster. And back to watercooling - just a lot easier to setup XD
New 99% finalized part list (Probably going to change the memory out - doubt that the chip would do that speed so no need to spend the extra $$$) and a lot of excitement if I get the OK from the wife :-D

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pdcMhq
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pdcMhq/by_merchant/

Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly - Kryonaut 11.1g Thermal Paste
Memory: Team - T-Force XTREEM 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-4133 Memory ($231.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team - T-Force XTREEM 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-4133 Memory ($231.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Thermaltake - Core X9 ATX Desktop Case ($139.13 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($244.89 @ B&H)
Optical Drive: LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($49.50 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.95 @ Amazon)
Other: ASUS ROG RAMPAGE VI APEX LGA 2066 Intel X299 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 Extended ATX Intel Motherboard ($432.98 @ Newegg)
Other: Eisbaer 420 + 280 kit ($350.00) (Overkill - but I have the case space - might as well have some overkill!)
Other: Silicon Lottery 4.7GHz 7820x ($739.99)
Total: $2860.41

Existing parts: GTX 1070, 750ti (for extra monitor), 3x SSD, 1x HDD, monitors, audio gear

Once I am able to collect the $$$ and get the check cleared, I'll be aiming to get everything ordered. After that I'll be joining the Apex thread

 

[Shaded War]

Here's my

Blizzard games are poorly optimized on high end hardware, so a high frequency quad core Intel will likely give you the best results. But I already know you don't care, so lets continue with the 8 core.

I'm not a fan of that motherboard. You could save $100 and get a x299 Strix that will have all the same functions you need. It still has the RGB and ROG styling if that's what you like.

The memory is way overkill, I know this is the point of the build but it can kill the CPU overclocking potential by loading the IMC so hard. Unless silicon lottery is testing their overclocks on memory like this, then you won't hit the advertised speeds on this kind of memory. Get some 4x8GB 3000-3200Mhz and you will be better off. Even a 2x16GB set wouldn't be a bad idea. Quad channel offers pretty much nothing over dual channel and has stress on the IMC and has two less DIMMs to potentially die.

Power supply is way over done. I'd rather get something of higher quality in the 850W range for cheaper. Blizzard games don't support SLI or crossfire so you will never be needing the power for running 3 graphics cards off one rig. Allot of the newer 850W PSUs will never even spin the fans on because they never get warm, so 100% silent operation.

You can save over $100 by buying an OEM Windows 10 Pro license from a reputable seller on Kinguin. They run for about $28 and I'v bought from them without issue.

I just bought the 11g tube of Kryonaut and it's way overkill. I could probably do 50 CPUs and still have plenty. This stuff spreads paper thin by hand (your supposed to spread it) so even a 1g tube will last a while. Other than that, it's great and I suggest putting it on your GPUs as well.

 

[iamwardicus]

For the motherboard I'm after it because it's got the 8+8 EPS connectors for power. I want to have the high overclock and less worry about burning up a motherboard. I won't be using any of the lighting options so that's a moot point for me. (I could care less about the window in the case - i'm after the airflow it can provide)

I'll double check my expected power draw - There's the Seasonic 850 Titanium rated one for a bit of savings.

I'm definitely going to save some money on the RAM - probably going to go with a LPX kit for a bit less quid.

Thank you for the info on the Win10 license!!!!! That's going to be awesome - I wasn't aware of any way to get a real license for that inexpensive a cost. (Came to $35 for me!)

And yea, I got a 5.5g tube of Kryonaut as it was the easiest one for me to source and order with a decent cost.

Thank you for the feedback @Shaded War

 

[Shaded War]

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamwardicus

For the motherboard I'm after it because it's got the 8+8 EPS connectors for power. I want to have the high overclock and less worry about burning up a motherboard. I won't be using any of the lighting options so that's a moot point for me. (I could care less about the window in the case - i'm after the airflow it can provide)

I'll double check my expected power draw - There's the Seasonic 850 Titanium rated one for a bit of savings.

I'm definitely going to save some money on the RAM - probably going to go with a LPX kit for a bit less quid.

Thank you for the info on the Win10 license!!!!! That's going to be awesome - I wasn't aware of any way to get a real license for that inexpensive a cost. (Came to $35 for me!)

And yea, I got a 5.5g tube of Kryonaut as it was the easiest one for me to source and order with a decent cost.

Thank you for the feedback @Shaded War

I wouldn't put any value into the 8+8 power. This is for people looking to do some extreme overclocking with liquid nitrogen.

I'v had several boards with this and I didn't even plug in the extra 4/8 pin, and still had good stable overclocks. My current x99 board has a 8+4, and I don't use the 4 pin. My 6800k has the same 140w TDP as the x299 CPUs, so I can confidently say it doesn't do anything for you.

The Corsair LPX is a pretty good line of memory to go with. I'v built two x99 rigs with it now, and it runs rated speeds without issue. The only thing I'd check if you you can pick a model number on the qualified vendor list (QVL) for the mobo you choose, so the BIOS doesn't have to run a memory check before every system boot. It's not a big deal (mine isn't on the QVL), but it ads a few seconds of time before the BIOS screen shows up. No matter what, the extreme line of Intel CPUs never boot as fast as standard consumer stuff so it's a minor quirk.

Seasonic is probably my top pick for power supply if budget allows. Get something nice with the fan shutoff feature and modular cables. 850W is more than enough, your proposed build will pull less than 450W.

 

[OCmember]

There is a Ryzen TR 1900X coming out very soon. I think the 31st of this month. Price estimate is around $549

 

[iamwardicus]

Sadly with amd they only overclock to 4.0-4.2 max. I'm after high clockspeeds as well since most of what I do isn't multi threaded. Regardless of if I do amd or Intel I'll be better off than I am now.

We all claimed our winnings today, 4-6 weeks till the check hits. I'll probably get the water cooling gear up front so I have it ready for the rest of the build.

 

[Shaded War]

The 1900x is probably a decent CPU, but it isn't much cheaper than the 7820X. The 7820X will have better single threaded performance, so I'd just get that.

 

[iamwardicus]

7820 is what it will end up being. I continually eye the 7900x but it would be a total waste since I don't really need the extra pci-e lanes.

I'm hoping workstation class motherboards might come out with expanded storage options. I hate the 6 sata limitation on the the Apex.

 

[iamwardicus]

If it's available when i get to do my order - I might change the motherboard to the EVGA X299 Dark. 8x SATA headers. Perfect for me with the number of drives I want to migrate over.

 

[iamwardicus]

I've updated the build around a bit and made my last selections on components. I've got the shopping carts ready from Amazon / Newegg / Silicon Lottery - Now I'm just waiting for the check to clear (hopefully tomorrow)

The 2tb Black is for my wifes computer. She's also going to inherit my 1070.

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7qcFjc
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7qcFjc/by_merchant/

CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($369.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Extreme Video Card ($759.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Thermaltake - Core X9 ATX Desktop Case ($139.13 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Titanium 850W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($199.90 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Thermalright - TY-143 130.0 CFM 140mm Fan (already owned)
Case Fan: Thermalright - TY-143 130.0 CFM 140mm Fan (already owned)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-A20 PWM 86.5 CFM 200mm Fan
Other: ASRock X299 OC FORMULA LGA 2066 Intel X299 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard ($408.91 @ Newegg)
Other: Silicon Lottery 4.7GHz 7820x ($710.00)
Total: $3127.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

 

[iamwardicus]

Whelp here is the Ordered parts:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rT9z4C
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rT9z4C/by_merchant/

CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.95 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty X299 Professional Gaming i9 ATX LGA2066 Motherboard ($383.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($369.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($299.75 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.39 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Case: Thermaltake - Core X9 ATX Desktop Case ($151.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Titanium 850W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($199.90 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Thermalright - TY-143 130.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Case Fan: Thermalright - TY-143 130.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-A20 PWM 86.5 CFM 200mm Fan ($29.95 @ Amazon)
Other: Silicon Lottery 4.8GHz 7820x ($760.00)
Total: $2451.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-15 11:28 EDT-0400

I also have a few extra things like PWM splitters and stuff.

I decided against the 1080 Ti video card for now, I figure it'd be nice to take the Mrs shopping. And my 1070 should be fine for the 1440p I play at. I might try to find a matching Zotac 1070 sometime for playing with SLI if I'm ever bored XD

Anyways everything should be here early next week - We'll see where my temps take me since I'm gonna try to air cool the beast.

 

[chicagogenius]

I want to use build a thread ripper my self my understanding is you have to go water cooling not much of a debate sure somebody likely makes a giant tower heat sink with a giant high speed fan for it if you really want to avoid water cooling

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133275&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cases+%28Computer+Cases+-+ATX+Form%29-_-N82E16811133275&gclid=CjwKCAjw7frPBRBVEiwAuDf_LeXP1DyNBe9lriEJsYvuVXshEzTAte2JMorhorqLENpAbEvHOqGutxoCMUcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds that is what I gonna use might stack t so I put the radiator under neath the mother board or install some type of tray to catch and divert any leaks the pre built units do not seem to have long enough tubing to be used in this case so have to do custom that is ok bottom line this case offers the following first it offers the abilty to install allot of fans and radiators if stacked you can also install allot of pumps and reservoirs

never done any water cooling but what I know is this avoid aluminum in the water loop aluminum brackets would be fine if they sturdy enough next all metal parts should be brass or nickle plated with the radiator being nickel coated aka hot dipped not plated or solid nickle plastic tubing is fine but if its clear your at risk of algae unless you use a good fungicide I am thinking of adding a strong UV light to a reservoir now this would be a problem for any plastic so I will be using a metal reservoir likely a nickle and the UV light will be on a timer and talking a very strong UV like 10 watt LED for 5-10 min a day on a half pint reservoir the goal is to kill anything in the loop adding some silver is another good thing this will prevent your loop from clogging up note silver is not compatible with many inhibitors I do not have the info on what fluid additives to use for this setup as of yet please note the UV light is not the same as the ones that make your stuff glow in the dark that light will not harm plastics this light is strictly to kill microbes in your loop and should not be seen some metal tubing might be needed like 3-4 inches on both sides of the reservoir if its leaching through your clear tubing then its degrading that tubing just a note

 

[chicagogenius]

https://www.primochill.com/collections/prep-and-protect/products/primochill-sysprep-cooling-loop-pre-treatment

do not know if its needed but the idea is to coat everything with a rust inhibitor before it starts and to clear out any shavings from machining and such to me this seems like it might have some effect on cooling performance but compared to a clog later on Ill take the slight reduction performance and use a bigger radiator the reduction might be less then 5 percent but a clog is another issue all together

rather then going to newegg for the water cooling parts gonna go to frozen pc for allot of stuff http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g33/c117/s778/list/p1/Ultra_Quiet-Computer_Case_Silencing-AcoustiPack-Page1.html

this place is great we got sound dampening screws and gaskets for your fans and as well as sheets for the case this will reduce your noise allot I will likely use their screws to mount the radiator and sheets for the water cooling area were the pump and radiator are fans gonna get else ware http://www.xoxide.com/phobyanano-g14pwmblack-silentedition-140mmcasefan.html

those fans are very quiet and they are gonna be supper easy to clean have not decided on fan filters yet but they are gonna be a must no debate on that

until I see the case first hand can not decide on best air flow path witch will be a factor for the filter and intake fan size my I am thinking of making the upper and lower sections isolated because I do not want any hot air from the gpus to get to the radiators or vise versa and the noise from the pump needs to be isolated

saw some hose that looks reinforced similar to what is used in a car that seems like the best option as a car is at much higher pressure and temperature then a computer with stronger chemicals that are far more abrasive if it holds up to that it will be fine in a computer over kill well leaks can be a major issue want to avoid them if at all possible water cooling is a pain my plan is to set it up and forget about it

 

[chicagogenius]

another thing you need to plan is how to drain and flush https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu4_9gf6jsk any custom loop will have to be drained and flushed just because the fluid is not gonna last for ever you might be able to push 3-4 years but I am planing on no more then 12-18 months of you have a giant case you might want to consider having it elevated unless you want to get on your hands and knees to get to the drain plug and he had dye issues for those who want a dye maybe consider LED lighting instead you can change the color when ever you want and you have no issues with extra chemicals in your loop everything you add has a chance to interact with something so if its not critical do not add it dye is not critical fungicide is critical so is corrosion inhibitors outside of those 2 things you should have simple dieonized water in your loop and nothing more in my view that is what I know so far