How-To build an Expensive Grade A+ 2560x1440 IPS LED Display
For less then $300?
For less then $300?
Well, before I begin I would like to say a few things first. One, I do not have a great camera, its an Olympus SP-600UZ 12MP. However, I will be using a tripod with all images and videos, as I go, so this Build Log will consist of the best possible pics I can provide. Sorry if its not the best quality. Two, I'm doing this Build Log of a custom DIY display because I was asked by several users here to do it. Normally I would have just done my mod or build and been done with it, but with the extra amount of interest I am getting on this I figured I might as well do a Build Log of it. lol
And Three, why not just buy a cheap Korean monitor you ask? Well, this should be easy to understand, I simply can not get myself to buy a cheap monitor, not one with sub-par grade A- panels. Heck many of them are being shipped with B parts, and I can't get myself to do that. Knowing me, if it came with 100 dead pixels, I still would not ship it back to Korea. I simply will not risk having to deal with that event. Besides, I have been building, modding, designing, re-designing stuff my whole life, so all I need is tools and materials (and I have both) and its a done deal. So, ask me why again, and I will simply say "Because I Can" and it was fun to put together
Oh and one last thought, I did NOT re-size these images (4 or so megs when I uploaded them I think), so if OCN does not reduce the quality of these pics, this thread will not be 56k friendly. Sorry.
Materials used in this Build Log:
1. HP-Z1 Screen (LG H-IPS LM270WQ1-SDDB) Designed by HP but built by Pegatron
2. Overclocking Kit from Joshua at emaxeon.com (No longer available)
3. Power Brick Model: EFL-2202W or FY2405000, which is a 24V 5A power supply. Pin outs are as follows.
So, with no further ado here is what I am doing. Try to imagine a "Perfect Pixel, NO BLB, Catleap 2B Premium Ultra Extreme OC" display and THAT is what I am after here. I am using a Grade A++ 2560x1440 LG IPS Display (a 2013 H-IPS model $1000+ just for the panel direct from HP) brand new and almost naked meant for the amazing AIO HP Z1. These are warranty replacement screens that come with the panel AND the Z1 steel framed beautiful Glass bezel. These are the best of the best of 2013 IPS panels, in the way of build quality that is, but in matte finish. I'm not sure how long the seller will have these in stock so if you plan on doing this do not waste much time as this panel is worth much much more directly from HP. Anyway, for an idea of what it looks like, here is a pic of the Z1 AIO.
And this is the desk I am planning on installing it into. Not much but it is what I have.
Since I am going to keep my Dell, and do a two monitor setup, I decided my desk did not have enough surface area, so I had to extend it further to the left a bit, 9" inches (228.6 mm) further to be exact. What you see in the image above, under the Dell, is a high quality laminated MDF material I pulled out of a broken treadmill. Yeah, the board people walk and run on. I cut it 18" x 11" (457.2 x 279.4) and just bolted it down with a few Nuts/Bolts I found in the parts bins.
Oh, and here is some data as to what you get by mix and matching these parts. I'm not sure on the brightness as that may or may not be dictated by either the board you are replacing or the LED driver which may be part of the panel. Thus I do not know the spec we end up with here. I am using Panelook and tftcentral my for info. Just click on the chart below for a somewhat larger size. I suck at paint apparently, but it is coming out not how I made it. Its really big on my screen but really small and blurry after I posted it. So, for a really large version click on the imgur link.
Yellow = Panel Model in question.
Green = What you actually get.
Red = What you do not get.
Purple = Uncertain of the result.
Larger Chart Version: http://i.imgur.com/YNuYERq.png
Also, if your interested in Overclocking, using my 5870 I was only able to get it up to 100hz before problems started to happen. However, with a little tightening of the timings I managed to get a stable Overclock using the timings below. This works up to 105hz, but to push it any further I will need a better DVI cable capable of 11.9 Gbps (24awg maybe) and possibly better video card.
Active Horizontal: 2560
Active Vertical: 1440
Front Porch: 48 - 2
Sync Width: 32 - 2
Back Porch: 64 - 2
Blanking: 144 - 6
Total: 2704 - 1446
Pixel Clock: 375.3 Mhz
Anyway, now all we need is someone who can review monitors and has professional instruments to test this combination. I'm curious what I have been left with here, lol. Is it really a 6ms display now? What is the true brightness level?
Stay tuned for the PCB box build.