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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
  • Mar 3 2012 Update - Lighting comparison with PrimoFlex UV Blue tubing, Phobya FlexLight RGB, and UV
  • Feb 15 2012 Update - Blue!
  • Jan 2 2012 Update - HK SLI Bridge, AP15s and DIYINHK board installed here!
  • November 19 Update - SLI installation complete on page 8
  • November 15 Update - The quest for SLI on page 8
  • June 26th Update - New Heatkiller blocks on page 4
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  • July 5th Update - Dual UV cathodes, second QDC set and Feser Acid Green fluid on page 6
First off, just want to say I'm a long time lurker and have loved many builds I've seen on this site. A few of them inspired me to take on this project, specifically HAFenvy. I was originally going to attempt and mirror your HAF 922 build, but "rebuilding" the case is not something I want to tackle.

After much research, I finally decided on the HAF X. Looking back, I probably should have went with the 932, but oh well, I'll work with this. This case is massive! Thanks to Newegg, it also will not fit under my desk! The dimensions they list, have the Length and Height transposed
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Anyway, now on to the good stuff! I'll be updating this log over the next few days for all to see.

01-Parts.jpg

Contents
Case - Cooler Master HAF X
Power - Corsair HX750
CPU - Intel i5 2500k
Motherboard - Gigabyte P67A-UD4
Video - EVGA GTX570
Ram - G-Skill 4x4gb 1.5v (overkill but was on sale)
SSD - Crucial C300

01-Liquid.jpg

Contents
CPU Block - EK Supreme HF, Acrylic/Nickle
GPU Block - EK FC580 GTX+, Acrylic/Nickle
Radiator 1 - EK CoolStream 360
Radiator 2 - Black Ice GT Stealth 120
Reservoir - EK Bay Spin
Pump - Swiftech MCP355 (Laing DDC)
Pump Top - EK DDC X-Top Rev2
Fittings - Bitspower 3/8" x 5/8" Compression, Matte Black
Tubing - PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Green
Misc - 6x Yate Loon D12SM Fans, Danger Den Fillport, FeserOne F1 Acid Green Coolant, Bitspower plug, Temperature Fitting, Lamptron FC-5v2 Fan Controller, 100ft of Paracord (great price!), some Heatshrink, 24pin braided ATX extender, 8pin braided EPS extender, a couple fan power distribution blocks and Arctic Cooling RC Turbo RAM cooler.

The initial setup will be a Push config on the 360 rad and pull on the 120. An order as been placed for more fans to switch to Push/Pull on the 360.

Coolant Note - I've read a lot about the bad times people have had with colored coolant and you should just stick with distilled. I've also seen a lot of people never have a problem. I bit the bullet and went with the FesserOne, thanks again to HAFenvy's awesome build, and got the UV tubing in case I do make the switch later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First Install
May 6, 2011
Ohhh, shiny!
04-SupremeHF.jpg


Got the CPU and water block mounted with a bit of finger gymnastics
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05-SupremeHF.jpg


Motherboard and RAM installed
06-GSkill.jpg

07-Gigabyte.jpg


Rear radiator mounted in a push config. Top 360 mounted as push/pull with new screws. Still waiting on two more fans to arrive to finish the 360 and pulling my old Delta 120 for the rear.
08-MoboMount.jpg


May 11, 2011
Replacement GTX570 showed up. Got the water block installed and all of my tubing finally done (and some sore fingers). Also did a bit of work on fan cabling. Unfortunately the FrozenCPU distribution blocks are all male connections. Looks like I need to splice a couple female ends, or get some new connectors in order to fully use my fan controller.
10-GTX570Block.jpg

11-ReadyForLiquid.jpg

The "backwards" angle on the bottom of the GPU, coming from the pump allows me to still slide the tray the pump is mounted on, in case I need to get to the PSU cables.

12-Front.jpg

At this point, I'm point, I'm ready for leak testing. My plans are to use Distilled for the leak test, then drain and fill with my UV fluid. Since this is my first ever liquid build, is that a good plan or just go straight to the UV fluid?

Behind the reservoir is quite a tubing mess. Since the 360 radiator's ports are so close to the res, it took me a while to figure out the best connection method. I also need the ability to slide out the res a bit to access the fill port. I think what I came up with works well. Based on the picture orientation, the left Rad port goes to the input of the Res. The right Rad port comes from the CPU. Left Res port goes down to the pump. Middle goes down as a drain (we'll see how well that works lol). Third port is a temperature fitting.
13-ResTubes.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Issues
May 6, 2011
Apparently the GTX 570 HD card has a different PCB layout, go figure:doh: There's $60 down the drain:madsmiley
Got the standard GTX 570 on order. Hopefully it's here by Wednesday!
09-Mistake.jpg


EK Nickel Plating Failure!
May 22, 2011
After having a pump failure, checked my EK blocks and sure enough, I also have the nickel plating issue! I have a ticket open with EK on the issue. We'll see if they honor their "manufacturing defect" warranty.......
15-gtx570flake1.jpg

16-gtx570flake2.jpg

17-gtx570flake3.jpg

18-gtx570flake4.jpg

19-SupremeHFflake.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Benches/Verification
Should have done this long ago. Oh well, here it is
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(clicky for validation screen)
2037071.png

November 19, 2011
Left scores are using SLI, right scores are my former with a single GPU. The right ones were done at 5ghz CPU, and I'm at 4.5ghz currently.
65-Performance.JPG
66-Xtreme.JPG
 

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Looks promising
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, night 1 was tricky. Only got the PS mounted and rear 120 rad in a Pull config. Was hoping for Push, but it will need washers. The EK 360 did not come with stubby screws for a Push config and for a Pull and/or Push/Pull, the 12 "long" screws are a couple MM too long to use without washers and the shorts were too short. Looks like I'm off to the hardware store tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm still torn. I really want to use the UV fluid regardless of the issues some people have had. I've also seen people use it without issue. Speaking of which, I still need to hook up the UV cathodes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Haven't posted in a while so I should give an update. The system is now up and running, but will be doing some more tweaks and polishing later this week and next, busy weekend unfortunately. Also got my Razer AC-1 moved into the system.

The initial loop filling was very simple. I was surprised that I didn't have any bubble issues at all. Just about all of the videos I've seen have tiny bubbles that line all the tubes for a while, but I didn't experience any of that. Primed the pump and let it run for a few seconds, add more water and so on. Rocked the case and all the big bubbles were gone within minutes. After 15 minutes or so, there was no sign of air at all, and no drips either
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System is currently filled with distilled.

I've done a lot more research on using additional fluid and have not come across ANY claims of the F1 Acid Green having gunk issues. Most common were the blue and red, which a few of them admitted to NOT cleaning their radiators! So, I will be trying the Acid Green later.

On to the later part, after looking over my loop, I have a strong feeling I'm going to have drain issues with my current setup. That said, I have an order in for some Koolance quick disconnects (VL3N), which will be between the res and pump, low in the loop. Also picked up some female 3pin connectors, EK 580 backplate (black), some fan grills, screws and a kill coil. I swear this is a never ending project lol.

To Do - Install said parts, more cable management, and get my cold cathodes installed.

Issues - My Delta fan isn't reporting RPM on the fan controller, but the rheostat works. May be a pin issue when I sleeved the cable. Also need to make note of which temps are which leads lol. That said, I have not seen the water temp hit 31c yet, but I haven't done major stress testing. Just a few runs of 3dMark 11. Intake temp is at about 24.5c.

I'll try and post updated pictures *soon*
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, my latest order finally showed up yesterday. Got a couple 3 pin female to female cables made for my fan controller.

Hooked up the three PULL fans to channel 2 on my fan controller using a 4 way distribution PCB, and the three PUSH fans in the same way to channel 3. I had to crank the rheostat up to 100% for the fans to even spin, and now I bet they are only running at 1/3 speed. Even with the top cover off, I barely feel any air moving. If I crank up my 150cfm Delta, it alone will easily reverse the flow lol. Any ideas? Seems like a voltage drop, even though they're wired in parallel.

Overall the temps are still fine. Had my windows open last night and my case intake temp was at 25.5C, with water temp at 27C, rear exhaust (delta fan on 120 rad) also at 27C, and top exhaust at 29C (360 rad). CPU temp (stock speed and voltage) peaked at 50C on one core while running Prime95 Blend for an hour.

I'm thinking of ditching the PCBs and using this method to run a PUSH/PULL pair across 3 channels, then move my pump RPM lead to the motherboard. Even if there is still a speed reduction, 1/2 speed is a lot better than 1/3! If I get some time this weekend, I'll be hooking up the Quick Disconnects and getting the rest installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Blarg! So either I fubard the wiring on my female to female extensions (not sure how that's possible), or the 4-way PCBs are splitting voltage somehow. I peeled off the velcro backing and it's definitely setup for parallel, so I'm not sure what the deal is. Looking at the female 3pin connectors, I just noticed that some have different numbers. Of the 5 I got, two say 42 on the Negative, two say 30, and one says 103. Do those numbers mean anything??

Anyway, I don't know why I didn't see this before, but I just used a standard female to male into one of the fans 3-pin connector, then used the molex to chain the rest. Now I get RPM on top and bottom of the push/pull AND voltage control
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Now if only the Delta would play nice and display his RPM!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Late last night I decided to drain the system, install the GPU backplate, quick disconnects and remove my previous drain. As I suspected, the drain I had was in a terrible position lol. All that drained was it's tube and the res. Had to use various size containers to drain from the rear radiator and GPU block, rocking the system around and such. It was a pain. Hopefully these quick disconnects help...

While installing the GPU backplate, I inspected the EK block and found the same flaking nickle plating mentioned here. This is after only about two weeks of running distilled! No other additives were in the system. Looks like I'll be trying my attempt at an RMA after a few people have been turned down.
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I did not notice any issues in the CPU block, but I would need to remove it for closer inspection.

Pics up late tonight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I swear, if it's not one thing, it's another. Last night at about 1am as I was trying to process my latest update pictures, I either heard or smelled something funny, I don't remember, looked over at the system and the pump RPMs dropped to 0. Immediately turned the system off and started a couple tests. The pump wouldn't turn on.
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Drained the loop, a bit easier this time with the quick disconnects, and pulled out the pump. It looked like there was a microscopic leak from the o-ring in the pump, caused by what I think is a very small piece of the housing from a screw shaft. There was moisture on the outside of the o-ring and looks like it got down to the electronics below.
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Let it sit for a few hours over night and tried to test it this morning. The pump seemed very rough, but did turn for a couple seconds (with water), so I turned it off thinking all was well. Added more water and tried again, nothing.
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So, even though I think the pump might still work, I found that Newegg has them (MCP355) $15 cheaper than FrozenCPU. With overnight shipping, it's about the same price as FrozenCPU with Ground shipping!

When I get home tonight, I get to test my skills and see if I can reinstall the OEM air heatsink/fan on both the GPU and CPU within about an hour! Oh joy:thumbsdow
 
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