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Discussion Starter #1
Project Name: No Salary Cap V 2.0

Project Overview
Some people might remember the No Salary Cap build I did back in late 2011, early 2012. That build was my very first attempt at anything watercooled on a PC, and needless to say I learned a ton. There are a handful of irritations I have with that build, many of which I am sure I will discuss as this thread matures. This new build is not meant to be a quick build by any means, and I expect it to possibly take 2-4 months depending on how detailed I get with custom painting and finishing. I want a PC that is a complete work of art when it is done. I will be sleeving all cables, using all hard acrylic lines, and modifying the case. I am apparently making this an every other year hobby, so here goes.

Project Goals
  • Very Quiet Operation
  • Quad SLI Titans
  • Custom Paint All Items
  • Maximum Attention to Small Details
  • Hard Acrylic Coolant Lines

Scratched Project Goals
  • Replace Motherboard Connectors - Issues matching colors properly and current connectors matched color scheme fine

Cameras Used
  • Sony NEX-7 with 18-55 Sony E-Mount Lens
  • Samsung Galaxy S4 (very rarely used for pictures)

Color Scheme
  • Main Colors: Red/White/Black
  • Coolant - Plasma Blood Red
  • Waterblock Color - Clear/Nickle
  • Fittings - Black Chrome
  • Acrylic Tube Color - Clear
  • Cable Sleeve 1 - MDPC White
  • Cable Sleeve 2 - MDPC Color-X
  • Hardware - Black
  • Lighting Case - Undecided
  • Lighting Reservoirs - Undecided

Planned Water Loop Layout
NSCV2 Waterloop V3

Hardware List

Case
  • CaseLabs STH10 in White
Main Components
  • CPU: i7-4960X
  • Motherboard: ASUS Rampage IV Extreme
  • Memory: 64 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 MHz C10
  • PSU: 2 x Corsair AX1200i's
Storage
  • RAID 0 Array OS: 2 x Samsung 840 Pro 512GB - Link
  • RAID 0 Array: undecided
Liquid Cooling Components
  • CPU Block: EK Supremacy
  • Motherboard Block: EK ASUS R4E Full Board Block
  • GPU Block: 4 x EK Titan SE's
  • Memory Block: 4 x EK Monarch Series X2's
  • Radiator: 4 x XSPS AX480's in White
  • Pump: 3 x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump - Ultra Version
  • Reservoir: 2 x Bitspower Z-Tank 250mm All Acrylic
  • Coolant: Mayhem Aurora - Tharsis Red
  • Tubing Main: PrimoChill Rigid Acrylic Tube
  • Tubing SLI: EK 12mm Acrylic
  • Fittings ? x Compression: PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings
  • Fittings SLI: ? x Bitspower C48 Low Profile Multi-Link Adapters
  • Fittings 90 Degree: ? x XSPC 90 Degree Rotary
  • Fittings 3-Way: ? x XSPC G1/4" 3-Way Manifold Adapter
  • Fittings 4-Way: ? x XSPC G1/4" 4-Way Manifold Adapter
  • Fittings Extension: ? x XSPC G1/4 Male to Male 5mm Extender
  • Fittings Pass Through: ? x XSPC Bulkhead Adapter
  • Fittings Shut Off Valve: ? x Bitspower Mini-Valve
  • Fittings Pressure Valve: ? x Phobya Safety Pressure Mini Valve
  • Fittings Stopper: ? x PrimoChill Low Profile Slit Stop Fitting
Air Cooling Components
  • Rad Fans: 16 x Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM
  • Case Fans: undecided
  • Filters: undecided
Monitoring and Controls
  • System Controller: Aquacomputer Aquareo 6 XT
  • System Controller Add Ons: undecided
  • Temp Probes: undecided
  • Flow Meter: undecided
Miscellaneous Items
  • Sleeving: MDPC-X
  • Heatshrink: MDPC-X
  • TIM: Prolimatech PK-3
  • Thermal Pads: FujiPoly Ultra Extreme
  • GPU Backplates: EK Titan SE Backplates

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423 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Build Log: Start to Finish
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, time to talk about the annoyances of my last build. As I said in the overview, that build was my first ever attempt at anything watercooled. Some of the annoyances lie in design flaws, others case flaws, and all due to rushing on my part. Most every single issue could have been adverted with proper planning on my end from the start of the project.

With that said, I always like to read really in depth build logs as they can be invaluable sources of info when everything is documented well. This info can be extremely beneficial to the beginning builders and thought provoking for the more advanced modders. The following issues will mainly have some sort of practical reasoning behind them. Hopefully any and all of these can spike some conversation inbetween the slow parts of the build here initially.

Anyways, here's my gripes:

Dual Sided Cases
Initially I thought the idea of a dual chamber sounded amazing. In practice, it really became a hassle. It's not easy to position a massive PC in an office with ample room on both sides of the unit to properly access what is in the case in the need of maintenance/cleaning/etc.

Another main issue I have with dual side cases is that they really don't do the user any favors mechanically for proper fill/drain/startup/bleed. The core reason for this is that gravity doesnt pull fluid horizontally, and a dual sided case requires horizontal runs to pass between each side. This can obviously be overcome with proper pump placement, but without a pedestal on the lower half of the case, multiple pumps could be an issue depending on what else is installed. However, if a pedestal is added which allows massive stacking of rads in a side to side configuration, theres really no need for a double sided case.

Dual Lines
Worst Idea Ever! Not only is it way more of a pain to deal with when filling/draining, it adds a ton of clutter in the case. I'm a big believer in fill/drain lines, and doing that on a dual loop system really adds some unneeded runs. This could be less of a pain with a hard acrylic line system, but with normal tubing, I really wish I never did a dual loop system.

Rad/Res/Pump Placement
I had that idiot aha moment every engineer hates to admit on my last build. When I got my everything into my case, pumps mounted, everything hooked up, I realized that I hadn't thought of how to get the fluid from the reservoir into the pumps to begin pushing the system. One of my loops I actually have to manually suck on the opposite side of the line through a valve to start flow. This could have never been an issue if I would have started my line building up form the pump.

This is why I went with a pedestal style case. It allows me a large vertical distance to use gravity to my benefit when filling/draining the system and getting flow started. Pumps/PSU will be in bottom chamber, res in mid, rads in upper with possibly a rad in the main chamber. Placing the rads in the upper chamber allows for complete drainage if the drain line is at the bottom most point of the loop, which in this build, it will be.

Fan Noise
I've always had a loud PC. Maybe it's because I'm getting older but I hate how loud my current build is. That much air flow through the water block area isn't needed either on a watercooled build. This new build I am opting for a low air flow setup which will use 3-5 rads. I need to see the case, and crunch some numbers on stuff to decide the final number of rads. I may be looking at fans in the 800-1200 rpm range. LED vs solid has not been decided yet.

Case Clutter
The last build was beautiful when all panels were on and you were viewing it through the plexi window in the door. It is ugly in my opinion once the panels come off. This is one of the main areas I rushed at on the last build, and one of the key focuses for this build. Acrylic hard lines should fix this. I plan on bending the tubing to form each exact run if possible. The entire use of acrylic tubes is new to me and will be a learning experience I am sure.

I Dont Need To Fill Every SATA
I have a home server now, so requiring multiple storage areas on the actual PC isn't needed. The last build had all sorts of RAID setups. This new build will be more simplistic, using only ssd's.

That is all for now, headed to bed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, sorry for the delay. I was busy with work and had some issue uploading the pictures from my new camera. Anyways, enough talking from me, here's some pictures:

Parts Pic 01
All Initial Parts

Parts Pic 02
Watercooled Parts Closer

Parts Pic 03
PC Parts Closer

Parts Pic 04
Titans Up Close

Parts Pic 05
STH10 Box Opening 1

Parts Pic 06
STH10 Box Opening 2

Parts Pic 07
STH10 Parts Organized 1

Parts Pic 08
STH10 Parts Organized 2

I have not assembled the case yet, as it is still hanging out just as the picture shows. The case actually came in yesterday. As always, CaseLabs customer service is excellent! I accidentally shipped the thing to my old address and the day after shipping, 1 call to CaseLabs and they re-routed the FedEx delivery to a FedEx location close to where I live and held it for me to pick up.

I am planning on painting the exterior of the case, so the final case assembly could take some time. I have been struggling with a theme for the computer. I've been tossing around a couple ideas, talked to some friends who are also into PC builds, and I think the theme I am leaning more towards is a poker/cards/4-suit style theme. Playing poker and all card games in general has been a big part of my life ever since I was a small kid, I have a tattoo of the 4 suits on my inner left bicep/triceps, and I haven't seen any PC build yet that has done something similar. I also think it could go really well with the white/red scheme, and throwing some black in there could work too. I plan to do some exterior designs in photoshop/paint prior to doing anything to the case with paint removal/application.

Some of the other ideas I was tossing around was:
  • blood rose theme (main feature being a cylindrical reservoir with a suspended glass roses in the middle of it)
  • some type fluid dynamics theme (although I think I will achieve this with the sheer amount of hard lines being ran)
  • custom abstract art style (this is still a possibility depending how I like my initial designs of the poker/card/suit idea)
I also got my sleeving in from MDPC-X. I will snag some pics of that over lunch and upload them this afternoon.

My main goal for this weekend is assembling the case in a manner so that I can see how many low profile XSPC rads I will be using. Since one of my main goals of this project is silent operation, I have been tossing around the idea of anywhere between 3-5 480mm rads, depending on how much space I have in the upper chamber of the STH10 and the front bay area. I took some initial measurements from the website prior to the case arriving and have an idea of how to do the main radiator configuration, as well as the pump configurations, but really need to get the physical case in front of me to really see if what is in my head can be replicated in the case.

Anyways, enjoy the couple pics I posted, and I hope to have more here soon :-D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Well got around to opening and photographing the MDPC sleeve and heatshrink. I also ran into the first hiccup of the build: I'm totally using a different color of red and will re-sleeve my home server with the red pictured here. The white will be used for this build. I'll post the difference in colors after the sleeve pics.

For those of you who have ordered from MDPC-X before, these next pics will mean something to you ;-)

Parts Pic 10
Package 1

Parts Pic 11
Package 2

Parts Pic 12
Package 3

Parts Pic 13
Package 4

And now onto the sleeving:

Parts Pic 14

Parts Pic 15

No offense to the other brands of sleeve out there, but this stuff is top notch. Here are the other pics:

Parts Pic 14
Sleeve Pics 1

Parts Pic 15
Sleeve Pics 2

Now onto the color difference between the 2 choices of red available. The lighter is what I bought, the darker is what will be used on this build:

System Build Pic 01
Pic 1

System Build Pic 02
Pic 2

Anyways, I'm placing the order for the new sleeve tonight, will hopefully throw some of the case together tomorrow, and hopefully more pics.

Also, I'm going to try my best to respond to each individual response in this thread. I feel that it is respectful to take the time to respond when that person takes the time to comment. Half of the fun is the interaction with the community when doing stuff like this :-D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

OK, heres some pics of the case assembly and what not. I opted for all black hardware for now. I may switch out to red or white later, depending on what they look like. Now to the pics:

System Build Pic 03
Assembly Pic 3

System Build Pic 04
Assembly Pic 4

System Build Pic 05
Assembly Pic 5

System Build Pic 06
Assembly Pic 6

System Build Pic 07
Assembly Pic 7

I switched out all the clips from bare metal to white. Here are a couple pics showing the difference in how they look.

System Build Pic 08
Assembly Pic 8 - here is a pic of the white and non painted clips

System Build Pic 09
Assembly Pic 9 - here is a better pic of what both look like

System Build Pic 10
Assembly Pic 10 - and with white changed out

System Build Pic 11
Assembly Pic 11

System Build Pic 12
Assembly Pic 12

System Build Pic 13
Assembly Pic 13

My thought process for the rads is a left to right flow pattern. I still need to take some additional measurements between the 2 480 mounts, but im planning on doing fans, back to back rads flush, fans, back to back rads flush, and a 3rd set of fans. With the low profile XSPC rads, i should be able to fit everything, but, we shall see once i measure it.

System Build Pic 14
Assembly Pic 14

System Build Pic 15
Assembly Pic 15

And lastly, the PSU holders. I'm doing inverted PSU's so their fans can suck air in from both sides of the case.

System Build Pic 16
Assembly Pic 16

System Build Pic 17
Assembly Pic 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, fan of choice is the AP-15 gentle typhoons. The AP-14's don't have enough static pressure to comfortably overcome these rads. Also, the fan curve on the Gentle Typhoon site isn't as informative as the site for Nidec Server Corp (the actual manufacturer of the fans). Here are the spec sheets for anyone else who might be looking for this info:

Lower RPM Gentle Typhoon Spec Sheet
Higher RPM Gentle Typhoon Spec Sheet

With the 1850 fans, doing a fan-rad-rad-fan-rad-rad-fan set up would work with the 1850's, but they would need to run at their rated speed of 1850 to get the static pressure needed to overcome the rad thicknesses. This also verifies my concerns with my previous post when I thought that was the issue with the test on the double stacked rads. I did test a 1500 RPM 1.25 mmH2O Aerocool Shark fan and it was definitely not enough to overcome the AX480.

If I move to a fan-rad-fan-rad-fan-rad-fan set up, I can downclock the 1850's to decrease noise while still maintaining the performance. I wont be doing a rad in the front of the case. As for what will go in the front of the case, I literally have no clue yet.

Another issue I did not think of when initially thinking about was the space left in the upper chamber for running the acrylic tubes and ample room to get a nice clean drill hole layout for passing the tubs down to the lower chamber. One of the goals I have is to not using angled fittings, but rather bend and manipulate the acrylic with a heat gun to get perfect runs. I did take some pics of the rad loosely placed in the upper chamber. Here are a couple pics of one rad in the upper chamber:

System Build Pic 18
Radiator Room Pic 1

System Build Pic 19
Radiator Room Pic 2

System Build Pic 20
Radiator Room Pic 3

I don't want to put a 4th rad in the front of the case. All of the gentle Typhoon fans should be here early next week. Once those come in I should be able to get the rads mocked up to do some airflow tests.

My main goal for this weekend will be to check/verify all PC components work, do some unboxing pics of all the parts, and try and figure out what theme I really want to go with on this build. The whole cards/poker thing is leaving me somewhat idea-less on how to incorporate it into the build.

Anyways, enjoy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, I did what I could this weekend which was basically test benching the motherboard and videocards, and running memtest on the ram. This is not the CPU i will be using (borrowed a 3930K i had still in the box for my home server which isn't complete yet) and the slim noctua cooler I plan to use on that build. No thermal paste was applied and the highest temp I saw was 53 C on the CPU lol. Anyways, here are some pics:

Here are a couple unboxing pics:

Parts Pic 16
Part Pic 16 (Titan unboxing)

Parts Pic 17
Part Pic 17 (64 gig corsair dom platinum 2400 MHz ram)

Now onto my super improvised test bench...

System Build 21
Assembly Pic 21 (test bench building)

System Build 22
Assembly Pic 22 (test bench building)

System Build 23
Assembly Pic 23 (test bench building)

System Build 24
Assembly Pic 24 (test bench building)

System Build 25
Assembly Pic 25 (test bench building)

System Build 26
Assembly Pic 26 (test bench building)

System Build 27
Assembly Pic 27 (titan close up, plastic protection still on)

System Build 28
Assembly Pic 28 (power off)

System Build 29
Assembly Pic 29 (powered up)

System Build 30
Assembly Pic 30 (idle temps with no thermal paste on cpu)

All video cards worked when put as a single card, and the test bench powered up fine with all 4 cards in. I updated to the latest BIOS and let memtest run overnight. memtest passed with 0 errors which gave me a bit of relief (corsair has some component shortage issues currently so getting replacements would be extremely hard). All of my fans should come in this week, but I will be gone the until Thursday for work, so don;t plan on any solid updates until the weekend. I am going to try and order the fittings and acrylic lines before leaving so they are here for the weekend.

Anyways, enjoy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, update time. As I mentioned, I was gone on business pretty much all last week, and wasn't able to really sit down to look at some things with this build until later last night. First lets start with some part pics of what came in later last week:

Parts Pic 18
Parts Pic 18: 1850 RPM Gentle Typhoons

Parts Pic 19
Parts Pic 19: 1850 RPM Gentle Typhoons

Parts Pic 20
Parts Pic 20: MDPC-X Color-X

Parts Pic 21
Parts Pic 21: MDPC-X Color-X

Parts Pic 22
Parts Pic 22: MDPC-X Bag Drawing 5

Parts Pic 23
Parts Pic 23: MDPC-X Bag Drawing 6

Ok, then I was finally able to see what kind of spacing I will be working with on the radiator chamber. I have to say, it is going to be quite tight, at least where the fittings need to go. I am still looking at how I am going to configure and secure the radiator sandwich together. I have a few ideas, but will need to modify the fans to make it work. I also need to paint the fans before doing the final assembly. I think I am going to be using a 90 degree fitting off each radiator port which seems to be the only way the 1 inch spacing will work. If more space is needed, I will stack additional rubber gaskets to add spacing. Here are a couple pics of what I am looking at:

System Build Pic 21
System Build Pic 31: Radiator Spacing

System Build Pic 22
System Build Pic 32: Radiator Spacing with Ruler

I am also somewhat torn on fitting colors. I think the radiator chamber will use black chrome because of the black chrome fittings on the rads already. However, the EK GPU waterblocks have a black block where the fittings would go, which makes me want to use a solid black ghost fitting there. The rest of the blocks have the fittings attach to the clear portions. I thought about white ghost fittings, but I am not sure if it would look alright or not. Black Chrome wouldn't really go well in the main chamber in my opinion. I also am not sure if I want to have different colored fittings throughout the same chamber area (white on most items, black on items that mount to black). Since I am using the PrimoChill acrylic tubing, their acrylic ghost fittings are what I have to use.

I have also been looking at reservoirs. I would like to have 2, maybe 3 reservoirs primarily for looks, but am unsure about what look I want to do internally yet.

Some goals for this week are to figure out my fitting issues and decide on the colors. I also plan on getting the fittings ordered as well as the acrylic tubing. I will also be hunting for an airbrush gun which i will be using to paint the PSU's and fans. I have also been looking at what options are available that i can get to switch out the connectors on the motherboard from black to white, but since the color scheme is keeping black as an accent point, I am undecided if I am going to pursue this option.

Anyways, enjoy the pics :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Alright, a handful of stuff came in. I am still waiting on some more thermal pads to arrive Friday so that I can start mounting blocks on everything. The 4960X will be here tomorrow. As long as the additional FujiPoly pad gets here by friday, I am hoping to get all blocks mounted over the weekend. I am short 1 Monarch X2 (should ship monday from FrozenCPU), so ram wont have blocks mounted until next week. As I mentioned before, I went with all black chrome on the fitting finishes. I am also fairly sure I will go with a dual reservoir setup, using the BitsPower 250mm all clear cylindrical res's, chained back to back to give the system some nice looks. I most likely wont order the res's for a few weeks, as the Aquero 6 XT will be released by then as well.

Anyways, here are some of the part pics:

Parts Pic 24
Parts Pic 24: Fittings 1

Parts Pic 25
Parts Pic 25: Fittings 2

Parts Pic 26
Parts Pic 26: TIM and FujiPoly Pads

Parts Pic 27
Parts Pic 27: EK Titan Backplates 1

Parts Pic 28
Parts Pic 28: EK Backplates 2

Parts Pic 29
Parts Pic 29: Rigid Acrylic Tubing 1

Parts Pic 30
Parts Pic 30: Rigid Acrylic Tubing 2

Ok, so now that I have the 90 degree fittings for the rads, I figured out how I will need to space them. I will actually be using back to back gaskets to allow for enough room. This can be seen in the next pic:

System Build Pic 33
Assembly Pic 33: Radiator Spacing with Double Gasket

I also took a pic of what the ghost fitting looks like coming off of that:

System Build Pic 34
Assembly Pic 34: Radiator with 90 Degree and Ghost Fitting

And finally, the radiator with the double gasket put on. The imperfections of the gasket lines wont be seen once fans are mounted. I need to get more gaskets since I didn't account for double stacking them, so I may be reapplying these later:

System Build Pic 35
Assembly Pic 35: Radiator with Gaskets Installed

As for now, that is all I have. I decided I am not switching connectors out on the motherboard. This is mainly due to not being able to find the color I want (a pure white that matches the case). Most molex connectors are actually an off white and didn't look right in my opinion when I had them sampled. Also, there isn't much point in switching them out since you will never see them with everything installed. I plan to add more white into the case via sleeving, which should allow for a much cleaner look.

I am also planning on purchasing a low volume paint gun this weekend to hopefully start painting. I want all red to match the red of Color-X, so there may be some trial and error on getting that perfectly down.

For now, enjoy ;-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

and this came in today...

Parts Pic 31
Parts Pic 31: 4960 X

I'm hoping to start some block mounting tonight. Hopefully I can get a handful done. I also ordered a much larger sheet of the FujiPoly pad. The initial amounts I ordered were definitely not enough.

Parts Pic 32
Parts Pic 32: 4960X and the FujiPoly
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

And here's that update:

System Build Pic 36
Assembly Pic 36: 4960X close up with a Burnt Orange light effect

System Build Pic 37
Assembly Pic 37: 4960X close up in socket 1

System Build Pic 38
Assembly Pic 38: 4960X close up in socket 2 (locked)

System Build Pic 39
Assembly Pic 39: Stock motherboard cooler coming off

System Build Pic 40
Assembly Pic 40: Freshly cleaned X79 Chipset

System Build Pic 41
Assembly Pic 41: Unboxing the EK R4E Block

System Build Pic 42
Assembly Pic 42: EK R4E Block on (I used a cross pattern (corner to corner) of PK-3 thermal compound on the X79 chip. I forgot to take a picture of it before lining the block up. My apologies)

System Build Pic 43
Assembly Pic 43: Measuring NB block thermal pads

System Build Pic 44
Assembly Pic 44: Upper level pad cut

System Build Pic 45
Assembly Pic 45: Upper level pad installed

System Build Pic 46
Assembly Pic 46: Upper and lower pad installed

System Build Pic 47
Assembly Pic 47: Upper and Lower Block installed

System Build Pic 48
Assembly Pic 48: Unboxing EK CPU Block

System Build Pic 49
Assembly Pic 49: Standoffs Installed

System Build Pic 50
Assembly Pic 50: Motherboard Re-Installed onto motherboard tray

System Build Pic 51
Assembly Pic 51: PK-3 being applied (dot method works well with this stuff)

System Build Pic 52
Assembly Pic 52: Block lowered into place

System Build Pic 53
Assembly Pic 53: Both blocks installed

System Build Pic 54
Assembly Pic 54: Ghost Fittings Installed

System Build Pic 55
Assembly Pic 55: Disassembling Corsair Dominator Platinum

System Build Pic 56
Assembly Pic 56: Realizes entire stick heatsink needs removal...

And that is where I am at. I am ordering sets of the EK side panels to cool any type of ram. This actually works out well, as I can paint the ountside of the EK covers white, which will look pretty cool installed. I will try to get the videocards done tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Here is a diagram of the planned waterloop. I just realized I didn't have this uploaded yet and figured I would add it since I haven't added any pictures lately:

Water Loop Planned Layout
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, after trying trying a ton of different paint ideas, I'm fairly sure I either need to remove all paint from the back plates or get new back plates lol. Nothing I came up with I liked and every new application of paint just made the back plates look worse. Since I can't figure out what I want to do with those yet, I am completely shifting gears to the case/rads/res installation.

My reservoirs and pumps did finally come in. I will be travelling this week for work, but have a general idea of where these will be going in the case. I also need to drill and mount my pass through connectors to allow a clean look when going through the upper/lower chambers. This is where my attention will be this week/weekend.

I also got a handful more fittings, but will take pictures of those once I have a moment to organize them for a photo, same with the EK ram side blocks.

Here are a couple pics of the pumps/reservoirs:

Parts Pic 33
Parts Pic 33: 3 x Aquastream XT Pumps

Parts Pic 34
Parts Pic 34: 2 x Bitspower 250 All Acrylic Reservoir

Parts Pic 35
Parts Pic 35: 2 x Bitspower 250 All Acrylic Reservoir
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Alright, since paint in general is on hold, I decided to shift gears (as I mentioned before). I mounted the reservoirs and plan to get the other case hardware mounted a bit later tonight. I also need to modify all of my fans with a dremmel prior to painting to allow the radiator sandwich to be assembled properly. Anyways, enough talking, to the pics:

Assembly Pic 57
Assembly Pic 57: Marking reservoir mount drill holes

Assembly Pic 58
Assembly Pic 58: Center punching for even hole drilling

Assembly Pic 59
Assembly Pic 59: All holes drilled (used 9/64" bit)

Assembly Pic 60
Assembly Pic 60: Initial mounting bracket line up

Assembly Pic 61
Assembly Pic 61: Final mounting bracket line up and tightened into place

Assembly Pic 62
Assembly Pic 62: Reservoirs installed view without door on

Assembly Pic 63
Assembly Pic 63: Reservoirs installed view with door on
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, time to disassemble the Gentle Typhoons. I notice most guides on the internet don't take the fans apart to all 9 individual parts. Painting is much easier when you do that, and you only have to mask the the back of the fan if you decide to hit the back side of the blades.

Anyways, enough talking. Here's the pictures:

System Build Pic 64
Assembly Pic 64: Labels Removed and Cleaned

System Build Pic 65
Assembly Pic 65: C-Clip Removal (Sorry for the blur, this wasn't easy to shoot.

I used 2 small flat head screwdrivers to push the c-clips over, then fine needle tweezers to pull the clip the rest of the way out. In hindsight, I should have put the fan into a large Ziploc baggy before removing as this would have prevented me from loosing one of the c-clips that went flying into oblivion in my basement. I intend to steal one from my current build when I go to re-build the fans.

System Build Pic 66
Assembly Pic 66: Blades Removed

System Build Pic 67
Assembly Pic 67: Back Side Mask

System Build Pic 68
Assembly Pic 68: Back Side Mask Trimmed

I used 2 inch blue painters tape for this and it was perfect. When going to paint, I will mask a small cone over the metal blade axle that is protruding through. I took the pictures like this to see how I got the edging done so well.

System Build Pic 69
Assembly Pic 69: All Blades Masked

System Build Pic 70
Assembly Pic 70: Blade Mask Side Up Close View

System Build Pic 71
Assembly Pic 71: Remove Wire Retention Clip Out

System Build Pic 72
Assembly Pic 72: The Fan Motor Locked

System Build Pic 73
Assembly Pic 73: The Fan Motor Unlocked

You rotate the entire assembly counter-clockwise till the noch lines up with the bare pcb board. Then with a little pressure, the unit completely slides off.

System Build Pic 74
Assembly Pic 74: Fan Motor Removed

System Build Pic 75
Assembly Pic 75: All 9 Gentle Typhoon Parts

System Build Pic 76
Assembly Pic 76: All Motors Removed

System Build Pic 77
Assembly Pic 77: All Fan Bodies Ready for Paint

System Build Pic 78
Assembly Pic 78: Fan Bodies Up Close

I am painting these tomorrow. I have not decided on the color scheme yet but may do some contrasting color choices due to how the radiator sandwich will be visually. More updates to come...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, time to recap everything I did today paint wise, because it took pretty much all day...

Recap on colors:

VGA Backplates - Gloss White and Clear Coated
RAM Modules - 4 sets Gloss White and Clear Coated, 4 sets Gloss Red and Clear Coated
Fan Bodies - Gloss White
Fan Blades - Blood Red
Radiator Fins - Semi Gloss White

Now onto the photos... (theres quite a few)

System Build Pic 79
Assembly Pic 79: Initial Primer on Fan Blades

System Build Pic 80
Assembly Pic 80: Second Coat of Primer on Fan Blades

System Build Pic 81
Assembly Pic 81: Red Applied to Fan Blades

System Build Pic 82
Assembly Pic 82: Opposite Side pf Fan Blades Done in Red

System Build Pic 83
Assembly Pic 83: Removing Radiator Fittings

System Build Pic 84
Assembly Pic 84: Radiator Core Removed

System Build Pic 85
Assembly Pic 85: Radiator Masking Fitting End

System Build Pic 86
Assembly Pic 86: Radiator Masking Opposite End

System Build Pic 87
Assembly Pic 87: Radiators Before Painting

System Build Pic 88
Assembly Pic 88: Radiator Paint Coat 1

System Build Pic 89
Assembly Pic 89: Radiator Paint Coat 2

System Build Pic 90
Assembly Pic 90: Radiator Paint Coat 3

System Build Pic 91
Assembly Pic 91: Radiator Paint Coat 4

System Build Pic 92
Assembly Pic 92: Radiator Fin Close Up

System Build Pic 93
Assembly Pic 93: Modified Fan Body (left) vs Original Fan Body (right)

The reason for this is due to the screws I am using to sandwich my radiators together. I am using a special allen drive screw that wouldnt fit into these slots as they came out of the box. The reason for this will become more clear once I assemble the radiator sandwich and upload the pics.

System Build Pic 94
Assembly Pic 94: Fan Bodies Primer Coat

System Build Pic 95
Assembly Pic 95: Fan Bodies Paint Coat

System Build Pic 96
Assembly Pic 96: Fan Bodies Final Coat

System Build Pic 97
Assembly Pic 97: RAM Module Masking Proceedure

System Build Pic 98
Assembly Pic 98: RAM Module Mask Up Close

System Build Pic 99
Assembly Pic 99: All Masked RAM Modules Together Before Painting

System Build Pic 100
Assembly Pic 100: RAM Module Set 1 Painted and Clear Coated

System Build Pic 101
Assembly Pic 101: RAM Module Set 2 Painted and Clear Coated

System Build Pic 102
Assembly Pic 102: VGA Backplates Painted and Clear Coated

System Build Pic 103
Assembly Pic 103: VGA Backplates Up Close

System Build Pic 104
Assembly Pic 104: EK Symbol Reinstalled

I'm still not happy with the VGA Backplates. I am going with these for now, but they could change later.

If all the paint is at a state I can begin assembling the RAM sandwich I will. Otherwise, Videocards and ram installation are next on the list so the mobo tray can go into the case. Also, I began taking the PSU's apart, and painting those is going to be a little work. It is doable, I just need some more time taking the units apart.

Anyways, enjoy...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Update time...

I just realized I situated these properly the other night, so here are the reservoir pics aligned and fittings installed:

System Build Pic 105
Assembly Pic 105: Reservoir Alignment and Fittings Installed

System Build Pic 106
Assembly Pic 106: Reservoir Fittings Up Close

And I think this is the update most people wanted to see... ;-) I don;t have the ram modules taken apart yet, but now that these are completely dry I will be able to do that tonight. I should mask/paint the new VGA backplates once they come in friday and get quite a bit done this weekend.

Now onto the paint pics...

System Build Pic 107
Assembly Pic 107: RAM Modules Painted - All

System Build Pic 108
Assembly Pic 108: RAM Modules White Close Up 1

System Build Pic 109
Assembly Pic 109: RAM Modules White Close Up 2

System Build Pic 110
Assembly Pic 110: RAM Modules Red Close Up 1

System Build Pic 111
Assembly Pic 111: RAM Modules Red Close Up 2

I only painted the visible fin area. I didn't want to cover too much of the heat transfer area with paint. The entire center radiator is free of paint. The entire center fan blade structures will also be free of paint (once new fans arrive...)

Anyways, here are the painted radiator pics. I personally think the red blades with white everything else will look nice. Since most rad blades are black in most builds, I feel quite a few people go with lighter colored blades so they naturally pop visually when seen. Nothing wrong with that, but this should be a little different...

System Build Pic 112
Assembly Pic 112: Radiator Painted Pic

The paint build up on the second 120mm square on the bottom will be covered by a fan center, so it won't be seen :-D

System Build Pic 113
Assembly Pic 113: Radiator Paint Pic Close Up

As I mentioned, the RAM modules will be getting installed tonight (possibly during the day if I have time). Stay tuned...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, large update, but the ram blocks are not installed yet. You will see why at the end of this update. This ram has not disappointed on being quite a bit of work lol...

Since I promised to show a step by step procedure of removing the stock heat spreaders form the Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM Modules, here it is as always ;-)

System Build Pic 114
Assembly Pic 114: Removing RAM Light Bar Pic 1 - 1.5 metric allen wrench used

System Build Pic 115
Assembly Pic 115: Removing RAM Light Bar Pic 2

System Build Pic 116
Assembly Pic 116: Removing RAM Light Bar Pic 3 - Light Bar Removed

System Build Pic 117
Assembly Pic 117: Lets Remove These Heat Spreaders...

System Build Pic 118
Assembly Pic 118: Heating RAM Stick

My heat gun is rated to 1100 F. You can get one at Menards/Lowes/Walmart for anywhere from $20-$100 depending on what you want. You are not raising the RAM module to the temp rated on the gun. I held the memory sticks about 2 inches away from the end of the gun, slowly moving it back and forth along the length. I did this for about 45 seconds per side. I used a regular oven mit, but something with individual fingers would be preferred.

System Build Pic 119
Assembly Pic 119: Breaking Side Panels Loose

After the stick is heated up per the method mentioned above, I then used a large flathead screw driver to pop the side panels loose. Placing the screwdriver in as the picture above, I would twish the screwdriver counterclockwise in that picture, popping one of the 2 sides more loose than the other.

System Build Pic 120
Assembly Pic 120: Removing Heat Spreader Side 1

After it is popped loose, you can then use one screwdriver to hold the bottom heatspeader down to the table, and with another screwdriver you can pull up to remove the top heat spreader fully. There will be a long strip of thermal pad that is sticky. You can remove with tweezers or use a very small flathead screwdriver to gently push it off the chip in the cleaning process mentioned later.

System Build Pic 121
Assembly Pic 121: Heat Spreader Side 1 Completely Removed

System Build Pic 122
Assembly Pic 122: Removing Heat Spreader Side 2 - Pic 1

System Build Pic 123
Assembly Pic 123: Removing Heat Spreader Side 2 - Pic 2

I re-heated the stick for another 30 seconds or so on the heat spreader side. Once the stick was re-heated, I placed the RAM module heat spreader side down and used a screw driver in the heat spreader notch to secure it. You can then use your fingers (preferred) or a screw driver to very carefully pull the RAM module up, removing it from the second heat spreader.

System Build Pic 124
Assembly Pic 124: Both Heat Spreaders Removed from RAM Module

System Build Pic 125
Assembly Pic 125: Left Over Glue Residue

System Build Pic 126
Assembly Pic 126: Removing Left Over Glue Residue

There will most likely be left over glue residue on the memory chips. I used a small screw driver to gently scrape it off. It comes off quite easily. This wont scratch ro damage the chip, just make sure the screwdriver is non magnetic.

System Build Pic 127
Assembly Pic 127: RAM Modules Completely Removed from Stock Heat Spreaders

System Build Pic 128
Assembly Pic 128: RAM Modules Completely Removed from Stock Heat Spreaders Close Up

Ok, now onto why the new EK heat spreaders are not on the memory sticks yet...

The Dominator Platinum sticks are huge. Infact, they are too big for the EK heat spreaders. Well sort of. The heat spreaders will work, there will just be thermal pad showing. I also think I need thicker than 0.5mm thermal pad as a replacement. I plan to place thermal pads accross the massive ground plane (on both sides of course) of thicker 1.5-2mm thick FujiPoly, then place some over the memory chips at either 0.5mm or 1.0mm. This way, once the 2 sides of the memory modules are secured together, the pressure created with the thicker FujiPoly thermal pads will cause the RAM module to stay situated permanently.

Also, I realized I need to paint the other side of the heat spreader, which is also why they aren't mounted. I should have looked at how these went together before masking...

I will make a detailed post on how to cut the thermal pads and what sizes once I get to that step. However, I need to order more FujiPoly sheets in order to do this. Here are some pics of the RAM module inside the EK heat spreaders:

System Build Pic 129
Assembly Pic 129: EK Heat Spreader Mock Up Assembly Pic 1

System Build Pic 130
Assembly Pic 130: EK Heat Spreader Mock Up Assembly Pic 2

Stay tuned, as I think the videocards will be assembled this weekend as well as some other stuff...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

As I mentioned before, I was ordering new videocard back plates due to ruining the paint job on the previous ones. (it was ruined by trying to fill the laser etching with opposite paint that would stand out, but the laser etching wasn't deep enough after the primer and paint was put on the back plates) This worked out well though, as the original back plates had nVidia GTX in the laser etching, and these are the actual Titan ones that say LC Solution FC Titan. So, all in all, things worked out for the better in my opinion.

Anyways, here are the pics :)

System Build Pic 131
Assembly Pic 131: Videocard Back Plates Masked (used same method as RAM Modules)

System Build Pic 132
Assembly Pic 132: Videocard Back Plates Primed (all 4 were primed, only took pics of a set of 2)

System Build Pic 133
Assembly Pic 133: Videocard Back Plates Painted White - Set of 2

System Build Pic 134
Assembly Pic 134: Videocard Back Plates Painted Red - Set of 2

System Build Pic 135
Assembly Pic 135: Videocard Back Plates Painted - Red and White Shown Together

System Build Pic 136
Assembly Pic 136: Painted and Finished Videocard Back Plates - Pic 1

System Build Pic 137
Assembly Pic 137: Painted and Finished Videocard Back Plates - Pic 2

System Build Pic 138
Assembly Pic 138: Painted and Finished Videocard Back Plates - Pic 3

System Build Pic 139
Assembly Pic 139: Painted and Finished Videocard Back Plates - Close Up Pic 1

System Build Pic 140
Assembly Pic 140: Painted and Finished Videocard Back Plates - Close Up Pic 2

My plan is to get the videocard waterblocks all mounted today with these installed.

As a side note, I also painted 8 new fan blades. I was really unhappy with how my previous paint color choice finished as. The red was way too dull when compared to the paint used on the RAM Modules and Back Plates. I will be picking these up later today as they are finally dry, and will post pictures once I take them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Ok, here is that big update. I finally got around to putting the videocard blocks on the titans, and fully assembling the back plates. There are a ton of pictures, and as always, I show every single step... ;-)

System Build Pic 141
Assembly Pic 141: Removing Stock TITAN Heatsink and Fan - Pic 1

System Build Pic 142
Assembly Pic 142: Removing Stock TITAN Heatsink and Fan - Pic 2

System Build Pic 143
Assembly Pic 143: Removing Stock TITAN Heatsink and Fan - Pic 3

There are 2 fan cables. The larger 4 pin cable is easier to remove in this position than the 2 pin. Also, do not forget to remove the 2 screws on the back side of the board where the DVI connectors are! The card will NOT remove without those out.

System Build Pic 144
Assembly Pic 144: Removing Stock TITAN Heat Sink and Fan - Pic 4

System Build Pic 145
Assembly Pic 145: TITAN GPU Cleaned

System Build Pic 146
Assembly Pic 146: TITAN GPU Cleaned Close Up

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and q-tips to gently clean the old TIM away. I try to get the large chunks of debris off with the q-tip before I use an air can to blow away the excess alcohol that is there after cleaning. You really can't use too much alcohol.

System Build Pic 147
Assembly Pic 147: Old Stock TITAN Heat Sinks and Fans

System Build Pic 148
Assembly Pic 148: All 4 TITAN Cards with Heat Sinks Removed and Cleaned

System Build Pic 149
Assembly Pic 149: All 4 TITAN Cards with Heat Sinks Removed and Cleaned Close Up - Pic 1

System Build Pic 150
Assembly Pic 150: All 4 TITAN Cards with Heat Sinks Removed and Cleaned Close Up - Pic 2

System Build Pic 151
Assembly Pic 151: EK-FC Titan SE Unboxing

System Build Pic 152
Assembly Pic 152: EK-FC Titan SE Installation - Pic 1

System Build Pic 153
Assembly Pic 153: Cutting FujiPoly to Correct Sizes - Pic 1

System Build Pic 154
Assembly Pic 154: Cutting FujiPoly to Correct Sizes - Pic 2

System Build Pic 155
Assembly Pic 155: Cutting FujiPoly to Correct Sizes - Pic 3

System Build Pic 156
Assembly Pic 156: R33 Thermal Pad Placement

System Build Pic 157
Assembly Pic 157: U8/U9/U10 and U11/U12/U13 Thermal Pad Placement

System Build Pic 158
Assembly Pic 158: R22 Thermal Pad Placement

System Build Pic 159
Assembly Pic 159: M1/M2/M3/M4/M5/M6/M7/M8/M9/M10/M11/M12 Thermal Pad Placement

System Build Pic 160
Assembly Pic 160: All Thermal Pads Placed

Here are the sizes of Thermal Pads used: (all were 0.5mm thick FujiPoly)
  • R33 - 0.625" x 0.025" (5/8" x 1/2") - QTY: 1/card
  • R22 - 1.3125" x 0.4375" (7/16" x 1-5/16") - QTY: 2/card
  • U8-U13 - 1.125" x 0.25" (1-1/8" x 1/4") - QTY: 2/card
  • M1-M12 - 0.5625" x 0.5" (9/16" x 1/2") - QTY: 24/card (12 top, 12 bottom)
Oh but wait, after placing them all I actually read the directions that came with the box and realized EK recommended a dot of TIM in between the component and the thermal pad to maximize its performance. Alright, time to back track...

System Build Pic 161
Assembly Pic 161: Applying PK-3 TIM Underneath Each FujiPoly Pad on M1-M12

System Build Pic 162
Assembly Pic 162: Applying PK-3 TIM to Main GPU Chip

EK recommended a star pattern like this, which is identical to how I did the chipset on the motherboard block.

System Build Pic 163
Assembly Pic 163: EK-FC Titan SE Installation - Pic 2

System Build Pic 164
Assembly Pic 164: EK-FC Titan SE Installation - Pic 3

System Build Pic 165
Assembly Pic 165: EK-FC Titan SE Installation - Pic 4

I fastened the 2 outer most screws to secure the block enough to maneuver and re-position as I needed.

System Build Pic 166
Assembly Pic 166: Removing Stock EVGA Serial Number Sticker

The serial number is permanently installed on each card. There really is no reason to keep these stickers unless you want to re-apply them somewhere else. I may reuse them somewhere else on the case, but most likely not.

System Build Pic 167
Assembly Pic 167: EK-FC Titan SE Installation - Pic 5

Note I left 4 screw holes with no screws in them. This is so the back plate can be attached properly to cool the chips on the back.

System Build Pic 168
Assembly Pic 168: Applying PK-3 TIM Underneath Each FujiPoly Pad on Back Side M501-M512

System Build Pic 169
Assembly Pic 169: M501/M502/M503/M504/M505/M506/M507/M508/M509/M510/M511/M512 Thermal Pad Placement

System Build Pic 170
Assembly Pic 170: Installing Red Back Plate

System Build Pic 171
Assembly Pic 171: Red Back Plate Installed

System Build Pic 172
Assembly Pic 172: Installing White Back Plate

System Build Pic 173
Assembly Pic 173: All 4 TITAN Videocards with Waterblocks and Back Plates

System Build Pic 174
Assembly Pic 174: White Back Plate Installed Close Up

System Build Pic 175
Assembly Pic 175: Red Back Plate Installed Close Up

System Build Pic 176
Assembly Pic 176: EK-FC Titan SE Installed Close Up

And the videocards now have waterblocks :) I should get them onto the motherboard later this week. I have a few things I need to do to it still first before permanently fixing it to the motherboard tray.

Anyways, enjoy all of the pictures and the update :-D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

For a slight change of pace, I have decided to go with a 4th radiator. I ordered another AX480 (which will fit in the front flex bays) and already have some pretty awesome ideas on how to do the fans and the fill/drain lines. I decided on the radiator over the extra reservoir when I was assembling the videocards. The entire backplate is a passive heat exchanger due to the TITAN cards having the 12 additional chips on the back side making each card 6GB. I will want airflow through the main chamber. Also, an extra radiator will help in making the system more quiet.

Now I am deciding if I want to stay with 3 pumps in series, or move to 4 pumps, 2 in series with each other and then the dual series lines ran in parallel to each other. This would give me double head and double flow rate, but I don't think its needed.

Also, I edited the planned waterloop layout picture, so here it is:

NSCV2 Waterloop V2
Planned Waterloop Layout V2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Alright, so here is the update. I decided to do the RAM modules instead of the fans for the time being. Fans will get done, I just wanted to get this portion of the block mounting done. Anyways, here are the pics:

System Build Pic 177
Assembly Pic 177: RAM Organized for Proper Assembly

System Build Pic 178
Assembly Pic 178: FujiPoly RAM Module Cutting Pic 1

System Build Pic 179
Assembly Pic 179: FujiPoly RAM Module Cutting Pic 2

System Build Pic 180
Assembly Pic 180: FujiPoly RAM Module Cutting Pic 3

System Build Pic 181
Assembly Pic 181: FujiPoly RAM Module Cutting Pic 4

System Build Pic 182
Assembly Pic 182: FujiPoly RAM Module Cutting Pic 5

System Build Pic 183
Assembly Pic 183: FujiPoly RAM Module Cutting Pic 5

Each individual RAM stick requires the following thermal pads:
  • 0.25" x 2.0" (1/4" x 2") - 1.5mm Thick - QTY: 4/stick
  • 0.375" x 0.4375" (3/8" x 7/16") - 0.5mm Thick - QTY: 16/stick
The 1.5mm thick pad seems to be perfect for the ground planes. No TIM is needed on the 1.5mm pads. The EK instructions don;t mention anything about this because RAM sticks technically shouldn't be installed like this. However, to get these to work in this system, drastic measures had to be taken...

Now multiply these numbers by 8, and that's how many thermal pads I needed to cut... (32 of the 1st, 128 of the 2nd)

I pre-cut every pad prior to doing any installation. Doing this makes everything go much smoother in my opinion, especially for the smaller pads that go on the memory chips. Cutting everything into strips that you can then easily hash and separate as needed really is a time saver. As with before, i used PK-3 under each pad.

System Build Pic 184
Assembly Pic 184: RAM Module Installation Pic 1

System Build Pic 185
Assembly Pic 185: RAM Module Installation Pic 2

A single dot is all that is needed, and all the TIM is there for is to hold the pads in place easier. it will provide a nice even mating surface as the modules are tightened down, but I do it mainly for the sticking properties to mount things easier.

System Build Pic 186
Assembly Pic 186: RAM Module Installation Pic 3

I did try to line the thermal pads on the chips up even with the lower half of the chip the best I could. This is purely for visual appearance. These will be seen on the outer most sticks, so makign sure they don;t look sloppy is a must...

System Build Pic 187
Assembly Pic 187: RAM Module Installation Pic 4

I then flipped the stick over, centered it, and started the process on the back side.

System Build Pic 188
Assembly Pic 188: RAM Module Installation Pic 5

System Build Pic 189
Assembly Pic 189: RAM Module Installation Pic 6

System Build Pic 190
Assembly Pic 190: RAM Module Installation Pic 7

System Build Pic 191
Assembly Pic 191: RAM Module Installation Pic 8 - Angled Screws in Place

System Build Pic 192
Assembly Pic 192: RAM Module Installation Pic 9

System Build Pic 193
Assembly Pic 193: RAM Modules Installed Pic 1

Ok, this is where I alter from the instructions a bit more. The directions state to use the angled head screws that mount in flush (like the picture 3 slots up). However, I was having some major issues getting those to take on threading and opted to use the longer pan head screw that came with the hardware. There are only 2/stick of the pan head screws as opposed to 3/stick of the angled head screws, but they provide a much better assembly.

System Build Pic 194
Assembly Pic 194: RAM Modules Installed Pic 2

Alright, I was going to stop here, but then I decided to go ahead and mount them to the motherboard as well, so here we go...

System Build Pic 195
Assembly Pic 195: RAM Modules Waiting to be Installed

System Build Pic 196
Assembly Pic 196: RAM Modules Installed on Motherboard

System Build Pic 197
Assembly Pic 197: RAM Modules Installed on Motherboard - Close Up Pic 1

System Build Pic 198
Assembly Pic 198: RAM Modules Installed on Motherboard - Close Up Pic 2

System Build Pic 199
Assembly Pic 199: FujiPoly RAM Block Cutting Pic 1

I cut 8 striped that were the following dimensions:
  • 0.25" x 5.0" (1/4" x 5") - 0.5mm Thick - QTY: 1/stick
System Build Pic 200
Assembly Pic 200: FujiPoly RAM Block Cutting Pic 2

The 5 inch strips end up being slightly too long once they stretch a little. However, you still want to cut them to 5 inches just incase you are super lucky and don;t stretch them at all during removal from the plastic protective coating.

System Build Pic 201
Assembly Pic 201: FujiPoly RAM Block Cutting Pic 3

A razor blade pushed straight down cuts these to size perfectly.

System Build Pic 202
Assembly Pic 202: FujiPoly RAM Block Cutting Pic 4

System Build Pic 203
Assembly Pic 203: EK Monarch X2 Unboxing

Alright, so as I mentioned before, I opoted to go with quad X2 RAM blocks instead of dual X4 RAM blocks. This is purely for aesthetics. These is no real reason why this type of block setup would work better than the X4 block. As I said in previous posts, i want to get as many acrylic runs as possible, and doing the RAM blocks like this will definitely add some extra run clutter
wink.gif


System Build Pic 204
Assembly Pic 204: EK Monarch X2 Installation Pic 1

System Build Pic 205
Assembly Pic 205: EK Monarch X2 Installation Pic 2

System Build Pic 206
Assembly Pic 206: EK Monarch X2 Installation Pic 3

One thing to be noted is that these blocks call out for the stock Dominator screws to secure the blocks to the RAM Modules. I ended up using some black-oxide finish pan head screws that were the correct length and thread to secure these (since I clearly did not have the stock Domonator screws...)

System Build Pic 207
Assembly Pic 207: EK Monarch X2 with Ghost Fittings

This is a tight, tight fit. In fact, they don't technically fit but you can get them to fit with a little pushing. Once the ghost fittings are on, then there shouldn't be any issues.

And now for the fun artsy pics...

System Build Pic 208
Assembly Pic 208: EK Monarch X2 with Ghost Fittings - Close Up Pic 1

System Build Pic 209
Assembly Pic 209: EK Monarch X2 with Ghost Fittings - Close Up Pic 2

System Build Pic 210
Assembly Pic 210: EK Monarch X2 with Ghost Fittings - Close Up Pic 3

System Build Pic 211
Assembly Pic 211: EK Monarch X2 with Ghost Fittings - Close Up Pic 4

I have a couple things I need to do still to the motherboard and motherboard tray before finally securing the motherboard to the caselabs tray. I hope to have this sorted in the next few days so the videocards can be installed as well.

Hopefully you guys enjoy this update, and more are sure to come
biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Well, the holiday weekend didn't go as planned. I was sick and had family over for a large majority of the weekend
frown.gif
So I decided to re-look at my planned loop and made a couple adjustments:

NSCV2 Waterloop V3

Here is a recap of what I changed:
  • Placed GPUs in Parallel
  • Added 4th Pump
  • Moved pumps from 3 in series to dual pumps in series, then coupled in parallel
  • Added Pressure Relief Valve
  • Added additional drain valve
I had to order a couple new fittings for the videocards, and those should be in this week. I should start mounting radiators and fans this week as well since the fan bodies are finally completely painted and have no "lack of paint" issues in the smaller nooks and crannies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Alright, so here is the update of the videocard installation with parallel SLI connection. Enjoy...

System Build Pic 212
Assembly Pic 212: Lining Up EK SLI Tube for 19mm Cuts

System Build Pic 213
Assembly Pic 213: EK SLI Tubes Cut - 8 Total Made - 2 Spares

System Build Pic 214
Assembly Pic 214: EK SLI Tubes and De-Bur Tool

System Build Pic 215
Assembly Pic 215: EK SLI Tubes Before De-Burring - Close Up

System Build Pic 216
Assembly Pic 216: EK SLI Tubes De-Burred - Close Up

System Build Pic 217
Assembly Pic 217: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 1

System Build Pic 218
Assembly Pic 218: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 2

System Build Pic 219
Assembly Pic 219: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 3

System Build Pic 220
Assembly Pic 220: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 4

System Build Pic 221
Assembly Pic 221: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 5

System Build Pic 222
Assembly Pic 222: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 6

System Build Pic 223
Assembly Pic 223: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 7

System Build Pic 224
Assembly Pic 224: TITAN SLI Link Installation - Pic 8

System Build Pic 225
Assembly Pic 225: TITAN SLI Links Installed - Pic 1

System Build Pic 226
Assembly Pic 226: TITAN SLI Links Installed - Pic 2

System Build Pic 227
Assembly Pic 227: TITAN SLI Links Installed - Pic 3

System Build Pic 228
Assembly Pic 228: TITAN SLI Links Installed - Pic 4

System Build Pic 229
Assembly Pic 229: TITAN SLI Links Installed - Close Up

As I said, the acrylic for the CPU/Mobo/RAM blocks is next. I'll most likely get measurements tonight, cut tubes tomorrow, and possibly bend tomorrow night. Stay tuned, as things should begin moving rather quicker now
biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Holidays, birthday, work, work, holidays and more work makes for an extremely busy December...
frown.gif


I did start bending acrylic tubing, but have not been happy with my current results for the motherboard connections. When that update comes, there will be a ton of pics, failures to success lol.

Anyways, I shifted gears a little with some time and reassembled the painted fans finally. I may get the rads flushed tonight and the front one mounted. Regardless, here are the fan pics:

System Build Pic 230
Assembly Pic 230: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 1

System Build Pic 231
Assembly Pic 231: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 2

System Build Pic 232
Assembly Pic 232: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 3

System Build Pic 233
Assembly Pic 233: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 4

System Build Pic 234
Assembly Pic 234: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 5

System Build Pic 235
Assembly Pic 235: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 6

System Build Pic 236
Assembly Pic 236: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 7

System Build Pic 237
Assembly Pic 237: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 8

System Build Pic 238
Assembly Pic 238: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 9

System Build Pic 239
Assembly Pic 239: Gentle Typhoon Re-Assembly - Pic 10 (sorry for the blur)

Re-installing the c-clips was relatively easy with 2 small flathead screwdrivers. I would slightly bend the c-clip back into place with my fingers, then gently get it aligned on the fan axle. Using the 2 scrrewdrivers, I was able to push the c-clips down into the groove on the fan axle. After installing, pushing on the fan blades, you can check if it was completely installed correctly.

System Build Pic 240
Assembly Pic 241: Painted Gentle Typhoons

Top left are for the upper radiator sandwich, top right is for the front radiator, and the grey fans are for the inner fans on the upper radiator sandwich.

System Build Pic 241
Assembly Pic 242: Painted Gentle Typhoons - Close Up

Enjoy, I will try to get more done as I have time this week.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

Here is a much delayed update. I need to do 2 more double bend turns to finish the motherboard hard lines. I am leaving for vacation for a week in a few hours, so no updates until after I'm back
wink.gif


System Build Pic 242
Assembly Pic 242: De-Burring Acrylic Edges - Pic 1

System Build Pic 243
Assembly Pic 243: De-Burring Acrylic Edges - Pic 2

System Build Pic 244
Assembly Pic 244: De-Burring Acrylic Edges - Pic 3

System Build Pic 245
Assembly Pic 245: All Motherboard Acrylic Runs Cut and De-Burred

System Build Pic 246
Assembly Pic 246:All Motherboard Acrylic Runs Cut and De-Burred - Close Up

It should be noted that the following few pics show a failed attempt at a bending apparatus. I created this in an attempt to create precise double bend tube runs, but found all sorts of issues with this in practical use which prompted me to create a second bending apparatus. I will show the pics of the failed one, which will then move int the 2nd revision of the thing.

System Build Pic 247
Assembly Pic 247: Bending Apparatus Pic 1

System Build Pic 248
Assembly Pic 248: Bending Apparatus Pic 2

System Build Pic 249
Assembly Pic 249: Bending Apparatus Pic 3

System Build Pic 250
Assembly Pic 250: Bending Apparatus Pic 4

System Build Pic 251
Assembly Pic 251: Bending Apparatus Pic 5

System Build Pic 252
Assembly Pic 252: Bending Apparatus Pic 6

System Build Pic 253
Assembly Pic 253: Bending Apparatus Pic 7

System Build Pic 254
Assembly Pic 254: Bending Apparatus Pic 8

I did not like this bend. It was too wavy and looked like crap to be quite honest. Bending tubes is as much an art form as it is a science. To much heat or too little can make or break a bend attempt. With most things, practice makes perfect...

System Build Pic 255
Assembly Pic 255: Failed Bend Attempts

System Build Pic 256
Assembly Pic 256: Initial Bend Fit Test (All of these tubes were scrapped) (No these had no been cleaned yet)

After scrapping all of the tube runs, I decided to re-look at what was causing me issues on the bending apparatus I created. I knew the main concept was the best way to approach precise bends, but the design of the entire thing needed to be altered. It was easier to scrap the entire original platform and create a new one that would function more accurately and reliably...

System Build Pic 257
Assembly Pic 257: Bending Apparatus Rev 2 - Pic 1

System Build Pic 258
Assembly Pic 258: Bending Apparatus Rev 2 - Pic 2

System Build Pic 259
Assembly Pic 259: Bending Apparatus Rev 2 - Pic 3

System Build Pic 260
Assembly Pic 260: Bending Apparatus Rev 2 - Pic 4

System Build Pic 261
Assembly Pic 261: New Set of Acrylic Tubes for 2nd Attempt

System Build Pic 262
Assembly Pic 262: New Set of Acrylic Tubes for 2nd Attempt - Close Up

System Build Pic 263
Assembly Pic 263: Bend Process Pic 1

System Build Pic 264
Assembly Pic 264: Bend Process Pic 2

System Build Pic 265
Assembly Pic 265: Bend Process Pic 3

System Build Pic 266
Assembly Pic 266: Bend Process Pic 4

The 2nd iteration of the bending platform proved to be far superior to the 1st version. I was able to accurately run each run without creating the "wave" effect when looking at the bent tube. I am fairly sure I pushed the bend radius of the copper lugs to the max. Anything smaller than what I used would cause cracking and brittleness issues. I am fairly happy with the result, but still need to finish 2 more runs before the motherboard is complete. With that said, here are the motherboard pics...

System Build Pic 267
Assembly Pic 267: Motherboard Acrylic Tube Installation Pic 1

System Build Pic 268
Assembly Pic 268: Motherboard Acrylic Tube Installation Pic 2

System Build Pic 269
Assembly Pic 269: Motherboard Acrylic Tube Installation Pic 3

System Build Pic 270
Assembly Pic 270: Motherboard Acrylic Tube Installation Pic 4

System Build Pic 271
Assembly Pic 271: Motherboard Acrylic Tube Installation Pic 5

System Build Pic 272
Assembly Pic 272: Motherboard Acrylic Tube Installation Pic 6

Hopefully this update is enough for a week or two, as the last 2 bends to complete the motherboard are quite the pain and will require some thinking on my part. As I said, I am going on vacation tomorrow morning, so minimal updates over the next 7 days.

Stay tuned and enjoy
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I'll be watching
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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, time to talk about the annoyances of my last build. As I said in the overview, that build was my first ever attempt at anything watercooled. Some of the annoyances lie in design flaws, others case flaws, and all due to rushing on my part. Most every single issue could have been adverted with proper planning on my end from the start of the project.

With that said, I always like to read really in depth build logs as they can be invaluable sources of info when everything is documented well. This info can be extremely beneficial to the beginning builders and thought provoking for the more advanced modders. The following issues will mainly have some sort of practical reasoning behind them. Hopefully any and all of these can spike some conversation inbetween the slow parts of the build here initially.

Anyways, here's my gripes:

Dual Sided Cases
Initially I thought the idea of a dual chamber sounded amazing. In practice, it really became a hassle. It's not easy to position a massive PC in an office with ample room on both sides of the unit to properly access what is in the case in the need of maintenance/cleaning/etc.

Another main issue I have with dual side cases is that they really don't do the user any favors mechanically for proper fill/drain/startup/bleed. The core reason for this is that gravity doesnt pull fluid horizontally, and a dual sided case requires horizontal runs to pass between each side. This can obviously be overcome with proper pump placement, but without a pedestal on the lower half of the case, multiple pumps could be an issue depending on what else is installed. However, if a pedestal is added which allows massive stacking of rads in a side to side configuration, theres really no need for a double sided case.

Dual Lines
Worst Idea Ever! Not only is it way more of a pain to deal with when filling/draining, it adds a ton of clutter in the case. I'm a big believer in fill/drain lines, and doing that on a dual loop system really adds some unneeded runs. This could be less of a pain with a hard acrylic line system, but with normal tubing, I really wish I never did a dual loop system.

Rad/Res/Pump Placement
I had that idiot aha moment every engineer hates to admit on my last build. When I got my everything into my case, pumps mounted, everything hooked up, I realized that I hadn't thought of how to get the fluid from the reservoir into the pumps to begin pushing the system. One of my loops I actually have to manually suck on the opposite side of the line through a valve to start flow. This could have never been an issue if I would have started my line building up form the pump.

This is why I went with a pedestal style case. It allows me a large vertical distance to use gravity to my benefit when filling/draining the system and getting flow started. Pumps/PSU will be in bottom chamber, res in mid, rads in upper with possibly a rad in the main chamber. Placing the rads in the upper chamber allows for complete drainage if the drain line is at the bottom most point of the loop, which in this build, it will be.

Fan Noise
I've always had a loud PC. Maybe it's because I'm getting older but I hate how loud my current build is. That much air flow through the water block area isn't needed either on a watercooled build. This new build I am opting for a low air flow setup which will use 3-5 rads. I need to see the case, and crunch some numbers on stuff to decide the final number of rads. I may be looking at fans in the 800-1200 rpm range. LED vs solid has not been decided yet.

Case Clutter
The last build was beautiful when all panels were on and you were viewing it through the plexi window in the door. It is ugly in my opinion once the panels come off. This is one of the main areas I rushed at on the last build, and one of the key focuses for this build. Acrylic hard lines should fix this. I plan on bending the tubing to form each exact run if possible. The entire use of acrylic tubes is new to me and will be a learning experience I am sure.

I Dont Need To Fill Every SATA
I have a home server now, so requiring multiple storage areas on the actual PC isn't needed. The last build had all sorts of RAID setups. This new build will be more simplistic, using only ssd's.

That is all for now, headed to bed.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlite View Post

To be honest I have never really looked into phase change at all. I may just go read up on it this weekend to see what its all about.
Well, a $1-2k WC loop would do great too, but with PC SS you could probably hit numbers that are record shattering. 6GHz+ stable, lol. Not even kidding.

A high end WC loop will only get you to 5.2 maybe 5.5 top end.

Also, why are you going with a single chip instead of an SR-2 and a couple 3970x's or something...again if money is no object. Lastly, why Titan and not 690s?
 

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690s are dual 680s on the same chip. You can only SLI a pair of them, like AMD's 6990s (2x 6970) and 7990s (2x 7970) in crossfire, but with a few more restrictions, i.e. you can't SLI a 680 with a 690 but you can crossfire a 7990 with a 7970 or 50. The only two cards that beat a Titan right now are dual GPUs and are really only better for small form-factor builds.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caz View Post

Well, a $1-2k WC loop would do great too, but with PC SS you could probably hit numbers that are record shattering. 6GHz+ stable, lol. Not even kidding.

A high end WC loop will only get you to 5.2 maybe 5.5 top end.

Also, why are you going with a single chip instead of an SR-2 and a couple 3970x's or something...again if money is no object. Lastly, why Titan and not 690s?
I actually wanted to do a dual 2011 socket but the ASUS board has some major issues with newer gen VGA cards. The R4E board will be used on something else if I don't use it for this.

The ability to overclock isn't as much of a focus point for me personally. I did the big push to OC on the last build. This build is going to focus more on being silent, aesthetics, and overall being visually appealing. Regarding 690's, I dislike dual GPU cards. I can afford titans and haven't seen many quad sli builds with them so figured I would do one. I also typically game in 5760x1080, which the titans will cater to better than 680/690. I'm guessing the goals/plans for this build will really start flowing once the case arrives.
 
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