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Discussion Starter #1
I have had a Caselabs M8 for a while and just been planning and waiting on screws, sleeving, and whatnot. I have most of my stuff and got sick of seeing it sitting there with no love, just wistful looks as I passed by.

The full completion may take a while as it is warming up here and paintball season is in full effect, so money for stuff will be more scarce.

I plan to get a Sandy Bridge setup hopefully this summer and will swap out my current hardware. Then turn the current stuff into a HTPC.

The second chamber will have the VGA rad at the top, but waiting on what to do for graphics. I had a PNY GTX 570 for a couple days, but they changed to a non reference design and my block won't work. I am waiting for my refund and will get an EVGA one I think. I may save up and just get a 580 to not have to worry about my VRMs since the block will fit either.

To do list:
1. Get 6 different rad fans so my Gelids can be moved to viewable areas.Got 6 1850 AP15 GTs for my rads.
2. Get a few more matching fans for the front. I currently have a nice quiet Scythe and a loud ass Evercool. Got some AP15 GTs for the case too.
3. VGA cooling. It will be on it's own loop. I need a pump, res, and GTX 570/580, Got GTX580 now. Done! Will update the thread soon!
4. Change out the stock vandal switches to green ones.
5. Sleeve the front firewire and audio wires. Removed them instead, I won't ever use them.
6. Manage and cleanup the second chamber wiring and tubing. Won't be done until the VGA stuff is completed. I am thinking about building custom length cables for the modular items on my PSU.
7. Ummm other stuff: Misc random things like a MB extension strip to cover the opening between the MBtray and center wall.

Caution Swiftech Rad users on cases prior to May 1st 2011(estimate):
There is an issue with a few nuts at the top rad locations that prevent a flush mount. Below are the parts details from this section: http://www.overclock.net/13107464-post3.html
In addition to the rubber (mostly for sealing to make air through rad only), I used 2 washers per screw location. Together they were about the thickness of a penny or just a little more.

This should give you details if you search locally.

Rubber trim from McMaster-Carr PN: 8510K124: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3739/=c83502

Washers from McMaster_Carr PN: 97416A113

Current setup so far:
Weeeeeee002.jpg

Updated to SB now!
biggrin.gif

MoreSBUpdate002.jpg

MoreSBUpdate006.jpg

MoreSBUpdate023.jpg

MoreSBUpdate028.jpg

I had to use a piece of clear Tygon for my CPU inlet. I am out of the acid green, but i kinda like it. Also the damn UV makes the camera cry, it looks way better IRL.
All other pictures are viewable from clicking on the spoiler tags.

Here's some pics of previous planning and work:
ForsakenM8012.jpg

ForsakenM82002.jpg

ForsakenM8017.jpg

Above is just using old stuff to mock it up as I'm using what will go in it for now. It lines up with the window. I basically want that front drive area blocked off to not see it for now with the HDs and SSDs to be in a push/pull config. Why push/pull on drives? Cause. That's why.
tongue.gif


Wanted to have matching heads on nearly all the screws so I used these for the grill to fan bracket sides.
M8screws006.jpg

M8screws015.jpg

M8screws017.jpg

They were supposed to be black oxide, but are more of crap oxide. . .so I had to paint them to match the nice ones I mounted my fans with (above pic shows the difference):
M8screws020.jpg

The four on the right are original, others show the painted difference:
M8screws026.jpg


Quick shot of primer, then matte black and all better
biggrin.gif


And a couple of sleeved front header pieces:
Vinyl dyed black front panel header and sleeved USB cables (waiting on larger stuff from Furryletters):
M8Project001.jpg

M8Project008.jpg


MB and drives moved over from my HAF 932:
M8Project014.jpg

I'll post more tomorrow if I get a chance.
wheee.gif


Pic updates:
Post #2
Post #3
Post #4
Post #5
GTX580 is here!
DEMCFlex Filters
Gentle Typhoons are here
MCP355 Pump fix kit
Second loop parts and 355 pump fix
Dual loops installed and a bunch of other work
Some sleeving work
--Rome
 

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Discussion Starter #3
More pics:
M8Project015.jpg


There are 6 little nuts at the top of the case on the inside for some reason that are just close enough to the rad mounts to be an issue so I used some c channel rubber to create a little space:
M8Project016.jpg

M8Project017.jpg

M8Project019.jpg


These buggers are the annoyance:
M8Project021.jpg


One of the legs of the c channel needed removing to mount the fans properly so I just placed a 2.5mm allen in and used an X-acto blade to slice along it (cut one in background):
M8Project022.jpg


To make these nice little L shaped ones:
M8Project025.jpg


Also used some on the end to "seal" the airpath:
M8Project026.jpg


Rad and fans all mounted:
M8Project028.jpg

M8Project029.jpg

M8Project031.jpg

Caution Swiftech Rad users on cases prior to May 1st 2011(estimate):
There is an issue with a few nuts at the top rad locations that prevent a flush mount. Below are the parts details from the pics and issue above.
In addition to the rubber (mostly for sealing to make air through rad only), I used 2 washers per screw location. Together they were about the thickness of a penny or just a little more.

This should give you details if you search locally.

Rubber trim from McMaster-Carr PN: 8510K124: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3739/=c83502

Washers from McMaster_Carr PN: 97416A113
Cutting the 3" screws down to the right size is a tedious process. . .all I have is a little hobby vice and hack saw. I still need to cut 12 more for the rad on the other side.
frown.gif

--Rome
biggrin.gif
 

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Master of Black Snow
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Subbed.

BTW you could use a standard large pair of pliers to cut your bolts down instead of using a Hacksaw. At least the Hacksaw gives a cleaner result if you need for the threads not to be fouled. So in the future if it doesn't matter you can save yourself the tedium.
cheers.gif


~Ceadder:drink:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman;13110751
Subbed.

BTW you could use a standard large pair of pliers to cut your bolts down instead of using a Hacksaw. At least the Hacksaw gives a cleaner result if you need for the threads not to be fouled. So in the future if it doesn't matter you can save yourself the tedium.
cheers.gif


~Ceadder:drink:
Yeah I have vice-grips I could have used, but like you mentioned, the threads get jacked. I just used two nuts right at the spot to cut and they keep the threads good.
 

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Master of Black Snow
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Yeahup. Though I cut mine the same way with a pair of pliers. If I want to take the Hexnuts off the bolt just take the bolt out and thread them back the other way.
biggrin.gif


~Ceadder:drink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxGrave;13110989
Just buy some wire strippers that have the 6-32 cutter in them.
I have those, but not as good as advertised. It is actually easier for me to just hack saw them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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I'm so liking this build. But then I tend to like any build using an EP45-UD3P (even if it's only as a mockup). That way I can see how it fits and looks on other cases and builds. Plus I love Neon Green fans.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rugox;13116319
Why did you stack the fans? They don't really help.
Probably using just the outer fan housing as Shrouds to eliminate the dead spot at the center of the fan blade area.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Quote:
Originally Posted by rugox;13116319
Why did you stack the fans? They don't really help.
LOL!
biggrin.gif
The ones closest to the rad are hollowed out for shrouds as Papa alluded to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf;13116362
I'm so liking this build. But then I tend to like any build using an EP45-UD3P (even if it's only as a mockup). That way I can see how it fits and looks on other cases and builds. Plus I love Neon Green fans.

Probably using just the outer fan housing as Shrouds to eliminate the dead spot at the center of the fan blade area.
Thanks Papa!

The stuff in my sig will be in this for a while until I get newer gear. I do love my Gelids!
smile.gif
I'll be moving those into the MB area after I get different rad fans to see them better. I'm thinking the white Gelids since they may be similar and are cheaper. I'd like GT-14 or GT-15s, but are pricey and always outta stock.
 

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Master of Black Snow
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Very nice. Keep em coming.
biggrin.gif


~Ceadder:drink:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Quote:
Originally Posted by werds;13164920
How tall is the extended top?
It is 2 13/16" or 71.43mm, but it overhangs slightly to match up with the sides. Actual usable extra room is 2 1/2" -ish or 63-64mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
MOAR:
M8Project056.jpg

M8Project057.jpg

M8Project058.jpg


I love these fans like this, but they will be moved to the MB area so I can see them and replaced with something else for rad duty:
M8Project060.jpg

M8Project059.jpg


How it sits for now:
M8Project061.jpg


With reflections of what powered me that morning, lol:
M8Project062.jpg

M8Project065.jpg

M8Project066.jpg


I did three of these up for giggles and my add them for the same as well (at least for a day or two):
40mmCMfans003.jpg

I also got my 1/4 and 1/2 cleancut in a couple days ago and can now finish my front panel.

Also added the DEMCflex 360 filters to the top and the top one from my HAF 932 kit to the front left where the intake fans are. I'll get pics when I get off my *oh look, shiny* . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got my EVGA GTX580 in a couple days ago, man is it awesome!
GTX580002.jpg

GTX580003.jpg

GTX580004.jpg

GTX580005.jpg

Now I just need a pump, a couple more fittings, and a res to setup my loop for it. 1 loop for CPU, and MB when I upgrade that, and 1 loop for GPU (s).

Also need an PCI 8 pin extension to sleeve to match my 6 pin.
 

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Master of Black Snow
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Shoulda got a 6970 or 6990. Don't OC that 580 though. Might not stand up to it.
wink.gif


Still it's not a bad purchase as long as you are happy with it.
smile.gif


~Ceadder:drink:
 
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