[bfeng91]

Hey guys!

A week ago, I received all of my WC components, so I decided to single-sleeve my PSU and work on cable management before I built my new loop. Sleeving will be MDPC-X black and light blue. Unfortunately, I'm a complete noob so hopefully this doesn't turn out too badly

.

WC Components:
CPU Block: HeatKiller 3.0 LT
Rad: XSPC RX360
GPU Block: HeatKiller X3 58XX
Tubing: 12ft 1/2" ID Feser UV Blue
Fittings: 12 Bitspower Black Sparkle Barbs
Clamps: 12x Koolance clamps
Fans: 6x Yate Loon Mediums (unfortunately from Performance-Pc's)
Reservoir: XSPC Dual Bay
Pump: MCP 655
Misc: Danger Den Fillport

I realized that I had no way to drain my loop... Thankfully my parents had to go to Menards, so I hopped with them and found a cheap t-fitting and stopper for 60 cents each! They don't really match my color scheme...but whatever lol

Before pics:

Interior

The REAL mess behind the motherboard:

The PSU original sleeving (not too bad, but I want my own colors and uni-sleeving):

Thanks MDPC-X!

Power supply opened up, as sleeving was all the way inside before:

EDIT: As a quick question, does anyone know how I can avoid using the inverter for the cold cathodes? Those wires are hard to hide and really annoying >.<
And my fingers are KILLING me from sleeving... Kingwin sucks at organizing their cables... wires criss-crossed every which way and tangled together... So many burns

No build is complete without an injury! - from pulling out an ATX pin too fast

After pics:

 

[bfeng91]

Pics of my watercooling stuffs!

Clamps

Fittings

Daddy block and baby block

Baby block mounted

Beautiful ATI core

Daddy block mounted

Dual bay res

Snack to keep me going

RX360

Last minute t-line/plug purchase

Tubing

 

[Stridarn]

Nice, cant wait to see the fully sleeved psu

 

[mcpetrolhead]

subbed.

 

[JE Nightmare]

i'm interested to see where this is going, subbed.

 

[bfeng91]

After nearly a full day of sleeving, my thumbs are now raw and burnt and I've sleeved all that I can. Unfortunately, I didn't buy enough sleeving to sleeve every single cable, but it should be okay as the only ones that I didn't sleeve were the SATA and molex cables, which should be hidden behind the hard drive cage.

 

[JE Nightmare]

you didn't take your psu apart when you sleeved it did you?

 

[bfeng91]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JE Nightmare you didn't take your psu apart when you sleeved it did you?

I did indeed... I couldn't get the original sleeving out without taking it apart

just 4 simple screws though.

 

[Sean W.]

nice job! that looks sleek!

 

[JE Nightmare]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bfeng91 I did indeed... I couldn't get the original sleeving out without taking it apart just 4 simple screws though.

ah, was wondering because i could see the colors of the wires. still looks good though.

 

[bfeng91]

Thanks...though I believe I could have done better... Getting the heatshrink on near the PSU was so hard cuz I felt like I was going to burn the power supply or other wires...

Oh well, you live and you learn

Onto water cooling! This is going to be interesting....

 

[pgmoney]

can't wait to see i am gettng reayd to do a full rebuild focused on wire managment not my strong point but lots of different sleeving comming in this week and rerun my water loop cold cathodes and paint inside my case plus ordered the haf932 full plexi side panel to show it off i'll be doing pics and videos on alot of it.

just curioushow long did it take for mdpc to get you the sleeving? thanks for the pics.

 

[Clay333]

Sweet sleeving job. Your rig is going to be very nice when it's all done. +rep for the nice rebuild.

 

[DeadMau5]

Sweeet Cable sleeving skills are good

 

[bfeng91]

Thanks guys! MDPC-X shipping took about a week give or take a day or two after payment cleared.

This loop is giving me a bit more trouble than I had anticipated. I've already run into several problems

.

1. The XSPC Dual bay reservoir is an EXTREMELY tight fit with the rubber grommets on the sides. Once it's in, I doubt it's, unfortunately, ever coming out.

2. The fill hole on the top of the dual bay res is not G1/4 threaded, so I will not be able to utilize the fillport to its full potential - instead I will simply poke a tube in there, get a funnel and fill 'er up.

3. These clamps are so hard to put on in tight spaces. Do I build everything outside the pc and then move it into the pc once I've tubed and clamped?

4. Couldn't go push/pull due to height clearance with the stupid CPU pin cables. Will try to move it in order to use all 6 of my yates...

5. Lastly, having a bit of trouble in this area. Is this T fine with you guys? Plus, do I need clamps? It's impossible to get a clamp over them and I cannot pull any of the tubing out as hard as I try...

Thanks for reading guys! WC Pix up soon

 

[JE Nightmare]

can you get a wider picture of that t line?

 

[bfeng91]

This is the piece that I'm most worried about...

 

[Exek]

You can try to secure this with ziptie maybe ?

 

[blue-cat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bfeng91 This is the piece that I'm most worried about...

You should be pretty worried. You need to take the clamps off/loosen them and then push the tubing OVER the large section of the barb until it covers the thinner bit of the barb. Then put clamp the tubing to the flatter thinner section of the t line.

Hope tha makes sense, if it doesnt just push that tubing about 3-4cm further onto the barb so it sits flush with the junction of the t conector.

It looks like your going to need a new tube for the t line as thats way too short.

EDIT: Make sure none of your other connections are weak like this. The tubing should always be pushed as far as possible so it sits flush with the barb.

 

[JE Nightmare]

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue-cat You should be pretty worried. You need to take the clamps off/loosen them and then push the tubing OVER the large section of the barb until it covers the thinner bit of the barb. Then put clamp the tubing to the flatter thinner section of the t line. Hope tha makes sense, if it doesnt just push that tubing about 3-4cm further onto the barb so it sits flush with the junction of the t conector. It looks like your going to need a new tube for the t line as thats way too short. EDIT: Make sure none of your other connections are weak like this. The tubing should always be pushed as far as possible so it sits flush with the barb.

what he said, you're going to want to push the tubing all the way up and that barb all the way in. that's going to leak all over if you don't.