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Look forward to updates as you find time and build progresses.
Interesting as older build logs get updated to see how the builders style has evolved.

Made me laugh, not more than 1 hr ago I dropped off 2 x CaseLabs panels at a local fab shop for some lazer cutting and modding to suit what I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #262
Well this one is definitely going to be a fast 'reassembly' job for the most part... however as I'm ditching the pedestal so it can fit under my desk at the office... it's almost like starting from scratch. I've decided to keep the SLI 980s in this build, because I need that GPU power for.... uh... actually I don't know because I'm currently working on my micro test server and it has a 620 in it that is actually overpowered for what I do.

But really it has more to do with the fact that the 1080 is at least as fast but without the SLI drawbacks... and I don't have nearly as much radiator space in the SM8 - plus going with a single pump limits flow rate - so these guys will just stay with the M8.

Can't wait to see what you do with the panels, fast_fate! Considering the work going into Salive8 so far I can only imagine and drool
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(OK I'll show myself out now).
 

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Discussion Starter #263
Well, my hands are literally destroyed after working on just two sets of tubing yesterday... hopefully today will go better.

It seems that there has been a change to Primochill tubing since I last purchased some... although it's hard to tell in this photo, they are definitely much larger than they were. Still just says 3/8"X5/8" tubing but now adds 10mmX15-16mm... as metric equivalents - and I can confirm it's much closer to 16mm.

This means that even getting the compression collar onto the tubing is a little difficult, where as before it slid with ease! So tightening the collar down is very difficult and causes torquing which threatens to loosen the G1/4 on the opposite side. I guess we'll see if I was able to protect that when it comes to leak testing.

It's hard to show well with a 50mm lens and having to try to hold both tube at a similar angle... but the tube on the left is from my new package and the tube on the right is from a package I purchased about 2 years ago. Both thicker walls and larger OD on the newer tubing... not a ton but definitely can feel it. I'm also assuming that there is less placticizer or whatever they're using in place of it now as the tubing is much stiffer. Likely part of the "tight bend enhancement" marketed on the packaging... obviously it will totally kink on any tight radius bends so take that with a grain of salt, but it's definitely not going to kink without enough force to probably break whatever it's attached to first!
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I don't know why I thought it was time to break this down and clean the blocks... all that gunk from the CPU block couldn't have had an effect on performance, right?
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I remember when I did the last loop and had a segment like this I was a little worried...

Well, I'm worried this time around as well, but not about leaking... more like I'm worried I cracked my motherboard trying to get the tubing on the two barbs! And that was after soaking it in hot distilled for around a minute prior to mounting.

Just took this shot to show the compression collar - it would take a wrench to tighten it any more... that's how much thicker this tubing is... On the old tubing I could get it within 1mm of the knurled flange part... now it's lucky if it's 3mm from fully closed. However, that doesn't matter as long as it's not going anywhere... and it definitely isn't.
 

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Sounds like you got some serious forearm exercise! Yeah I've been down that road with the Primochill 3/8 5/8 tube too. It almost made me think I should start working out, just to make this tube process easier!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart View Post

Sounds like you got some serious forearm exercise! Yeah I've been down that road with the Primochill 3/8 5/8 tube too. It almost made me think I should start working out, just to make this tube process easier!
Need to work out bart to make it easier to lift the rum!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #266
It's alive! OK, actually that's a little premature and hopefully I didn't just jinx it by typing that. How about "It's a loop!".
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Welcome back guys!
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Just in case anyone is wondering why the large disparity between the quality of these shots and the ones in my other build... I'm using my old D80 with crap glass here at the office - because I don't feel like lugging my gear back and forth, and I certainly don't want to leave my good gear at the office.
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I'll probably bring the D750 in for a final 'modelling shoot' for this rebuild.

Yeah, I've never felt like as much of a wuss as I did after using that new primochill... I seriously had to ice down my forearm the first night because it was so knotted up! And although I didn't have any rum at the office (plus I rarely drink so probably having more than a single shot of rum would have been disastrous to the build and possibly my personal safety). I did however seek out some alcoholic inspiration of sorts during a few of my "thinking sessions" over pump placement...


Decided since this was going to be under the desk and once full probably close to 50 lbs. - putting a bunged drainport was a necessity... so despite it making things very tight up front I wanted to pull from the lower 240mm rad...



That seemed to go well, and I have a crapload of fittings since I'm doing hardline tubing and shiny fittings in my other build... but of course I didn't quite have enough.
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Well, more accurately, my dual rotary G1/4 fitting was banged up all to hell!



So that seemed good and then I looked again at my pumps... and the space I no longer had to fit it at all...

Closeup with flash:

Yeah, that ain't gonna be cutting it I don't think... guess I'll be direct-connecting the pumps this time around, and hoping the vibrations aren't horrible. So I had to use that dual rotary on the back because I can't spin the pump on to the radiator anyway and I'll have to ditch the feet because otherwise I'll be running pump->1/2" tube->90 degree into tank - or even worse, a pump to dual 90 degree fittings to drop the elevation to the lower port.
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Not that it would be the end of the world most likely... but I can't see adding meaningless restriction right off the bat.

So, I'll use the banged up fitting there and that's nice since that puts it in the back...
And I'll just sharpie the brass and call it good (may go back in with some black modelling paint later to make it look perfect).


Needed a little something to prevent too much vibration (although direct connection is going to have more regardless)... so a Walmart mousepad was sacrificed to make a mini-shoggy-sandwich. I guess in this case it's just bread since there's no room for any fillings in the sandwich.


You may also notice I had to trim back some of the heatshrink on my fan... it was too rigid to make the bends I need it to for the thick sleeved part to fit were it needs to go! I should have resleeved the whole thing and used black sleeving while I was at it.... with smaller individual sleeving on the last 10" to the pumps... but this is not going to be visible and I need this to be finished quickly or I'll never get going on my other build. Or at least, that's the excuse I'm going with... could be just because I'm too lazy to bother.

Unfortunately my good (non-scuffed that is) non-rotary dual G1/4 adapter would have worked great on my drain line... had I not been a complete idiot and left that for last!
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With the pump in place and everything plumbed into the reservoir... there's now no room to spin the valve onto the radiator (handle hits pump bodies).

Again, I could have taken everything completely apart and redone it... but there has to be something that will let me not waste that 3 hours of work just to have a drain that's straight. I thought about using two runs of tubing with the valve in the middle... but I wanted the valve closer to the pump/rad area so there wouldn't be flex on the bay cover when turning it.

So... Old-ass SLI adapter to the rescue! Actually I used a shorter 1-slot one of these in my res-to-pump line as well as I initially had it on and then realized that I couldn't fit my optical drive which is a much as I burn backups to optical media (as well as other media) on a weekly basis here at the office. Don't even remember when I bought those shorties, but glad I got both sizes whenever that was!
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You might also notice I did manage to get some sleeved power to the GPUs... I'd given up on that due to the proximity of the tube and the inflexibility of the four power bundles... but with some heavy 'training' it worked... need to order a few combs though as they aren't as easy to train in that position.


And then it was already 4am and I needed to clean up everything I'd spread around the conference room - as my ops manager gets nervous when she sees things like this:

Don't know why really considering that was supposed to be my office originally, we never have meetings since I basically forbid them in my presence, and no one ever comes to 'tour the office' which is what her main concern is... Like the biggest problem in that room would be a ton of hardware all over the place.... THAT HORRIBLE PICTURE IS THE REAL F'N PROBLEM!!!
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Anyway so today is another day and it's leak testing time!
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I do hate leak testing in another room... every time one of the nightly reports starts printing I think I'm hearing water spraying all over the place and have to run in there in a panic!


However, so far all is well after 4 hours at full blast with both pumps.

Looks like someone forgot to clean out something...
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Well I was planning on running Mayhems Part 2 through it and doing a few full loop flushes with distilled afterward - and I'll be putting white pastel back in it in the final fill anyway... but I hate stuff like that. I'm going to say it was a pocket in the rads but who knows.

Now I have to go sleeve all my airflow fans for the front of the case and do some much needed 'housecleaning' on the PSU side of things.

Cheers!
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Discussion Starter #267
Mini-update:

Everything went sideways in a big way as far as the drain was concerned...

First it was irritating me aesthetically, then I noticed it was leaking slightly... so tore it all out and re-did it... and again, and again, and still leaking. Used a stop fitting, still leaking...
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Don't know exactly what happened, whether the lip on the G1/4 port on the XT45 got nicked or ?? Apparently there is just too much pressure on it or something - though I don't think so because it was fine when I started - unless I just didn't notice (it was a very small leak so maybe it was there to begin with).
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So drain moved to the 'ugly side' where it probably should have been from the beginning... I just hate having a drain over in all my wiring, etc. since it seems a likely point of failure. Guess I'll be doing more cable management than I previously planned on this build as I don't want anything laying on the 'floor' of the case on that side as it would now be on top of the drain! I could have ordered another XT45 240mm radiator, but it was extra and unnecessary to begin with so I'll just set it aside and see if I can salvage it later.

So anyway here is the progress...

Blitz cleaning everything... with all the draining and replumbing cycles... don't need to worry about it not getting flushed out! It did well though... lots of detritus was removed.

Thought this would be the one that worked... even used the dual rotary to make the exit tube straight... but NO!


So here we are and it's now time for the dreaded cable training circus to start. I have combs on the way but I'll try to get things sort of "prettified" first.



Oh and I love it when you spend 10 minutes working an 8-pin 12V connector through a little hole between two UT60's only to realize it's the PSU side and you have to spend the same amount feeding it back through before you get to start over doing it the correct way!
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See this is why I don't do my own wires or sleeve.
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Glad you got it licked though, and having the drain in the back will look tons better in the end, albeit with more work needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #269
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart View Post

See this is why I don't do my own wires or sleeve.
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Glad you got it licked though, and having the drain in the back will look tons better in the end, albeit with more work needed.
Yeah, now that I've been battered and bruised but managed to get it all set up... glad I did it that way. Wish I had the extra cooling capacity, but not for any practical reasons... probably still won't see any temps over 28C except during initial benches and testing. I've even decided to back the clock down to 4.8GHz so I'm under 1.4V vcore... I can always throw the 5.0 or 5.1 clocks on for a bench run, but no reason to just be wasting electricity and making heat (unless my office gets cold
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).

Man I thought this camera took great images until I tried taking indoor, lower-light or highlighted shots with it... tripod or no it just got so noisy even at 100 ISO settings... sigh. Of course, until I had something superior to compare it to, I didn't know - hell, I thought a 19" monitor was massive back in the CRT days... now a 30" at the office just seems so 'meh'.
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Still have to deal with optical drive - either black vinyl (probably) or paint (less likely) will make it less of an eye-sore. Also have to plan on what to do with the MSI bridge... like the lights but I don't actually have any MSI hardware in this build (tons in my other build but it won't have SLI now..
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). Need to make a film insert for it to probably either have the Case Labs logo or maybe Nvidia logo in white maybe.



So there are still a few details I need to take care of before bringing in my 750 for some good shots with better lighting... but it's basically done!
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First of all - here's what I did with that drain... glad I had these accessory rails from my first build... worked great and adds some stability as well.
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Closeup

Hard to see even with the flash, but the valve is still easy(ish) to get to in that cable bundle hell!


Combs in place and cables looking much better as a result:

What the.... well, maybe I should turn the lights off since that's just sad... window is plenty reflective though... wish the model looked better.
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Ah that's a little better!

Couple of iso shots



Maybe I'll just make an M8 insert or an overclock.net flame or something. This is what I was talking about at the top of the post.


Ah and I clearly need to figure out how to calibrate the A6 for different sensors, because unless I have the best radiators in the world... I'm pretty sure they aren't cooling below ambient.
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Thanks for stopping by again... now to get to work on the other build!

Fell free to offer tips/criticism - always happy to learn more!
 

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Discussion Starter #270
Slight update... finished an initial run on the SLI bridge... not super disappointed, but I think I can do much better with better tech. Tried regular paper, glossy, photo paper, and transparencies... liked photo paper the best but have a laser here at the office so the opacity of the black is an issue. Wish I had a dye sub printer... well, I wish I had one for much more than this.
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At any rate, it looks much better in person than in the photos because the lights wash it all out and it looks like it turns into a gray blob... it does actually show up decently but the black areas are decidedly gray instead of black. I'll try again with inkjet and maybe a laminate layer to see once I have things set up with my photo printer.

In the meantime - at least it's appropriate to the build more than it was with the MSI logo on it.
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Disassembly was straightforward:


Weighing the options:


After trimming and reassembly:


Ewww... but it really does look better in person:


The backlighting just makes everything lighter...


Had the bright idea to try with flash... just made it look like it wasn't even lit. SIGH.
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I'll probably throw up a final again with the good camera once I figure out how to get a silkscreened looking insert. Maybe I'll try on white vellum and double-print it... but then I'm likely to have registration issues as I doubt I can get two films to sit perfectly still and lined up exactly (at least I'm thinking it's unlikely at this point).

Suggestions would be very welcome if you can think of a better way to pull this off.
 

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Discussion Starter #271
Well, I improved it but unfortunately it still looks like crap when you take a picture of it... but it's perfect in person.
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Maybe with the other camera...

What I did was I reversed the image and then masked the text, expanded it slightly, and then printed THAT image on a transparency sheet. Once cut out and attached upside down (so toner faces toner on the two images) I now have a glossy film outside, with double printed blacks in the area I don't want light to show through... so now it's much higher contrast.

It's only slightly washed looking with no LED lighting in the case, but with the LED lighting turned on the washed look disappears and it looks deep black with the white lettering showing through very nicely backlit.
wheee.gif


Now if I can manage to clean up my office enough to actually USE it...
 

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Could only say a bigger window so you can see all that awesomeness without opening the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

Could only say a bigger window so you can see all that awesomeness without opening the door.
Yeah, I've been tempted to either mod this door or order an XXL door for it many times. When I was ordering the case and building my first build in it I was designing it to have a 'hot side' and a 'cold side' with the drives (optical and SSDs + HDD) on the MB side with both UT60's on the PSU side with the pump and res up front... so didn't want to show all the cables to the drives on the MB side.

Since then every build I've done it's laid out with all the 'looky bits'
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on the MB side and (with the exception of the optical) everything 'messier' hidden away on the back. With the rads top on both sides there's plenty of room for it - and was even more with the pedestal installed. Maybe I'll mod a small partial window near the handle which lines up with the rad so it shows through in it's own window.

In fact, the more I think about it, the more I love that idea. Great suggestion...damn you feznz!
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Discussion Starter #274
A 'little' update...

Well, it was time for yet another rebuild in this M8. Didn't do many photos as it was a fast(ish) build... just 3 days... plus working in the office there's just not all that much room to get decent shots until I get a 35mm prime or a wide angle zoom for my FX body. My glass is pretty crap for my DX so it doesn't help - got plenty of range as far as the glass is concerned but the quality isn't there really.

Some of the updates:
Asus WS X299 Sage MB
Intel i7 7820X CPU (OC in process... got 1 core to 5GHz so far but need delid for better temps).
1x XT45 360mm radiator (front CPU side)
2x XT45 240mm radiators (top)
*moved* 2x 360mm UT60 radiators to pedestal
2x Nvidia 1080ti FE w/EK blocks and backplates
Corsair AX1200i PSU - my AX1200 gold has issues now :(
*moved* 8x Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB DIMM - 64GB from crapulent X99 build (my SM8 is now running a Maximus X Apex)
1TB 950 Pro SSD nvme
Dual D5 EK setup (1 in pedestal and 1 integrated reservoir unit)

All rubber tubing in pedestal for security and durability and one rubber line on the PSU side (same reasons)
All PETG on CPU side
Everything is running Mayhems clear premix.
 

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