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Discussion Starter #22
Well I'm really having no luck with this logo removal. I picked up some 100% acetone, and still did nothing. So I've been at it with med-fine grit sand paper combined with acetone and yet this is the horrible result so far. I don't want to sand too much in case I end up damaging the case coating. I feel as though I've got some special "impossible to remove" paint on my case. I also didn't want to pick up paint stipper as it only comes in large containers.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsabd662b4.jpg.html
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakewat View Post

Well I'm really having no luck with this logo removal. I picked up some 100% acetone, and still did nothing. So I've been at it with med-fine grit sand paper combined with acetone and yet this is the horrible result so far. I don't want to sand too much in case I end up damaging the case coating. I feel as though I've got some special "impossible to remove" paint on my case. I also didn't want to pick up paint stipper as it only comes in large containers.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsabd662b4.jpg.html
Just pour a little on and let it soak a little perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I finished off the sanding with some 1500 and 2000 grit and then polish, and I must say it looks alot better. My only problem is the sanding on the inside is a bit rough as you can't really get a nice even pressure when using cotton buds and/ or tooth pics, and it is just as hard to polish. At least it isn't very noticeable from a disance and when it's back on the base and in the case it will be very hard to spot. Love the nice smooth finish on the outside though.
One question also, last build I had the block in the standard horizontal position (inlet and outlet horizontal) and just want to confirm that the vertical position is the better way/ that it actually makes any difference, even if it is just a small one.
Final update for today I think, hopefully I should get my acrylic sheet on monday to make the motherboard tray and 5.25" bay side cover, and also work out the mounting positions for the res, aquaero and HDD (wish I could get a 500gb ssd but don't have enough money atm)
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps883bdfed.jpg.html
 

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Discussion Starter #26

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Discussion Starter #27

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Discussion Starter #28

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Nice bro.

I shipped off that extension for you also. But snail mail so should get to you next week.

Gotta start my own bending soon as my blocks have finally arrived
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Motherboard tray/ res mount in. I thought I would give an integrated cable comb a go as well, it's not 100% perfect but cables will be running through it so I'm not too worried. I quite like the look of the gloss black so I will be keeping it instead of my original plan to go matte. Few more little things to do, along with sorting out the CAD for my water channel midplate, and I should be done soon.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps6545d3b1.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps14e38ac6.jpg.html
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Quote:
Originally Posted by natsu2014 View Post

Is there enough space to run all the cables though that one huge opening? Starting my own TJ07 soon and wondering where should I cut my MBtray
The big opening is just to get to the cpu block mount from behind, if you look at the pics of my motherboard tray (before I put the acrylic over it) I had cut two rectangles which were enough to fit my 24pin through one, and then sata and 2x 6pins through the other. If you are going to running SLI you may want bigger holes or to better plan the layout. Truthfully, my original cuts were a little rushed and not thoroughly thought out, if you have a look at something like coldzero's cuts in their custom tray it will give you an idea for how you want your own to look. hope that helped.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
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Originally Posted by natsu2014 View Post

Yeah CZ layout is something I'm considering as well. I'm not into SLI anymore, for CSGO my trusty 670 is more than enough
smile.gif

I wanted to do the same thing with water channels but was told that is only for showcase and it's very problematic for long time usage. Although I find great looking
Who told you that? I don't see how is would cause any problems as it's no different to the design of a simple waterblock. I just like the idea as it cleans up a few of the runs and does away with the need for fill port fittings
 

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Discussion Starter #36

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Coming along really well Jake
thumb.gif


digging the high gloss!

Saw you asked in the WCing thread about coolant. I think a purple would go with this real well, either dye or pastel
smile.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Yea, I'm having a hard time deciding on the colour still. I was about to go for ice white, but a purple could still be a possibility. But after having a look there is no premade colour that I like. What kind of coolants could I mix to achieve the right purple, would like it to be a darker purple but not a blue purple.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakewat View Post

Yea, I'm having a hard time deciding on the colour still. I was about to go for ice white, but a purple could still be a possibility. But after having a look there is no premade colour that I like. What kind of coolants could I mix to achieve the right purple, would like it to be a darker purple but not a blue purple.
Would you be interested in a similar purple to what I used in my ft03 build? Still have all the coolant if you want it
 
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