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Watercooling
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245 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

So I am starting a new build. I have built my own custom PCs from the days when the cases only came in beige (remember them days?) times have, thankfully, moved on. I think my first build was a 386 and it was so long ago when I first bought a hard drive it was £1 (GBP) per Mb.... so that 300Mb drive cost me a stonking £300 !!

This will be my 3rd water cooled build - although the first two were in the same case so I am not sure that really counts...

Anyway, I have done one build with soft tubing and recently swapped that out for hard line and a few new components (twin GTX 1080s, second rad and a monster res). Now I have decided to rebuild the whole lot into a new case, this time in WHITE. My PCs for the last howevermany years have all been in black cases, so this time I'm going for a complete change with the Lian Li PC-O11 WW. It will of course be water cooled and, perhaps a bit predictably, this build is call White Water.

My current build is in a pretty ancient Corsair Obsidian 800D - it's been a great case but it is truly massive and takes up half the room. Great for building a water PC and tinkering with but I have decided smaller is better for this time around.

The 800D is a bit battered and I have modded it to drill out the drive cages and modded the front panel to fit a second 360 rad. It works really well but it's time to retire the old beast.

First up, I will post some pictures of the current build to show you what I am starting from.

Hope you enjoy !

Mat
 

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Watercooling
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245 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Ok as promised here's the pictures of where I am starting from, this is the donor PC and I'll keep some of the components for the new build and Ebay the rest...
 

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Watercooling
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245 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok as promised here's the pictures of where I am starting from. It works well enough but I have to admit it's pretty ugly. This is the donor PC and I'll keep some of the components for the new build and Ebay the rest...
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #4
The build has started!

Ok so I now have quite a few of the components to start the build.

These are the new parts:

Lian Li PC-O11WW Midi Tower case - White Window
Intel Core i9 7900x
ASUS Rampage VI Extreme X299
Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD
Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 mm radiator - White
G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3600MHz Quad Channel Kit
EK-FB ASUS ROG R6E RGB Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel


These parts will be salvage from my current build and moved into the new one:

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 SC GAMING ACX 3.0 - EK-FC1080 GTX Backplate - ek-fc1080 GTX Water Block, Black Acetal
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 SC GAMING ACX 3.0 - EK-FC1080 GTX Backplate -
XSPC EX360 Slim Line 360mm radiator - White
XSPC Photon 270 Tube Reservoir with X4 Pump
BitFenix Spectre PRO PWM 120mm Fan – White x6 of
Dell U2715H 27" Widescreen LCD Monitor - x3 of in SLI surround
Corsair HX 1000W ATX Modular SLI Compliant Power Supply
Corsair Gaming M65 PRO RGB Mouse
Corsair K70 LUX RGB MX Red Keyboard

Most of this should go in pretty sweet but my main concern is whether or not I can fit the two rads top and bottom of the case and still fit that HUGE res/pump combo in the main compartment of the PC-011. On paper, it seems to fit but it’s tight and I might not have enough room to get everything connected up. Possible I could drop one fan off one of the rads and run the 2 360s with 5 fans or swap one out for a 240 rad….
 

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Watercooling
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245 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Question, why not also get sleeved cables?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi, yes that's part of the plan. The R6E board comes with a 20% off voucher for Cablemods so I will be giving them a try. Not sure yet what colours to go for though, I think I need to get the build further along and give that some thought, I started the build proper today so I'll post an update here.

Cheers
 

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Watercooling
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245 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Prepping the mobo!

Ok, so today I started the build proper, beginning with prepping the motherboard.

First off, removing the stock heatsink for the VRM and the 10Gb ethernet chip. Pretty simple process although the passive that comes with the EK monoblock for the Aquantia chip looks pretty basic to me… we will see, I don’t have any plans for a 10Gb network any time soon anyway so that’s a problem for another day.

Next, installing the CPU. Man those sockets look delicate with that many pins in there, I prefer the old approach of having the pins on the CPU but I suppose you could bork those too if you aren’t careful. Anyway that was no problem, I followed the advice on the socket cover and installed the CPU before removing the cover from the socket clamp, I’d recommend this as removing the plastic cover from the clamp requires a bit of force.

Finally the monoblock goes on…
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #8
I'm not quite sure what this is for? The EK block comes with the RGB leds pre-installed with a long cable to connect to the motherboard header but this also came in the box. What is it? A spare, an option for using a shorter cable? Anyone know?
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So now for the NVMe SSD. There are a couple of options for installing these but if you only need one then the obvious approach is to use the socket under the 'armour'.

Remove the screw in the picture between the 4th and 5th PCIe slots and then basically yank the armour off. It took me a minute or two to figure this out as I wasn't sure if there were other screws to remove... but no, one screw and a simple yank and it was off.

One thing to note. Leave the armour off as it also covers 2 mounting holes for attaching the mobo to the case, if you put it back on now you'll only have to remove it again later.
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #10
Into the case

The case arrived as well, for now I have stuck a nice but ugly (well the cables are anyway) Enermax 650w PSU in there until I get the Corsair HX 1000w out of my old build. Pictures below with the case empty and then with the prepared motherboard mounted. At the moment it looks like there is tons of free space in the main case chamber but I am pretty sure that will fill up quick!
 

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Premium Member
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I'm not quite sure what this is for? The EK block comes with the RGB leds pre-installed with a long cable to connect to the motherboard header but this also came in the box. What is it? A spare, an option for using a shorter cable? Anyone know?

One LED strip is 4-pins 12V non-addressable and the other is 5V (3-pins) Addressable. You can use whatever you want with the R6E but careful to plug it to the apprpriate header. Read the manuals.
 

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Watercooling
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245 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
One LED strip is 4-pins 12V non-addressable and the other is 5V (3-pins) Addressable. You can use whatever you want with the R6E but careful to plug it to the apprpriate header. Read the manuals.
Great, thanks for the advice. I'll have a play with it and see if it adds anything to the build.
 

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Damn, that monoblock looks like a factory part! Cleaning looking! Looking good.


Jake
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Jake. The build has come on quite a bit but I haven’t had time to update this build log. I’ll get it up to date and be interested in what everyone thinks.
 

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Watercooling
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245 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok so a few updates on the buildhere...

First off I have my order in for somecustom cables from Cable Mod, the R6E comes with a 20% discount voucher (whichworked!) but still about $100 on cables in total. They will be white and darkgrey, hopefully they’ll look great but I don’t expect them to arrive for awhile yet.

Also, I've had HUGE problems gettingstability on the R6E with my ram at any sort of overclock. The kit I was tryingis this one:

G.Skill’s Trident Z RGB DDR4-3600 32GB F4-3600C16Q-32GTZR

This kit is on the ASUS QVL for thisboard but trying to boot with XMP was a complete non-starter. The most commonissue was that the board gets stuck at ‘Detect Memory’ during POST, that andthe error ‘AF’ showing on the OLED.

Even at stock 2133Mhz I wasn’t alwaysable to POST the board.

Looking at what this could be, I guessit’s the motherboard, the RAM or the CPU… or a combination problem with thisconfiguration not working together.

I’ve gone with RMA on the RAM as I was almost out of time to return this kit.It’s being replaced with a lower clocked version with faster timings so I doubtthere is any real world performance difference between the two kits and thelower clock speed might help if it’s CPU/mobo related…


Trident Z RGB 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4PC4-25600C14 3200MHz Quad Channel Kit (F4-3200C14Q-32GTZR)

This is arriving today so I will letyou know how that goes. I have read a bunch of people having RAM stabilityissues with this platform…perhaps I got unlucky with the silicon lottery somewhere…
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #16
Wow! Two bits of good news, first off the Cable Mods custom cables just arrived in the post! That was pretty fast work as they shipped from the US (I'm in the UK) and I only ordered them on 5th July - so 8 days from ordering and they are here, great work Cable Mod!


The other bit of good news is that the 3200Mhz kit from G Skill also arrived and this is showing much more success than the 3600Mhz kit.


I can boot with XMP profile with all 4 sticks in quad channel mode running at 3200Mhz and timings of 14-14-14-34 - exactly what it says on the box!


I noticed that although the XMP profile sets these to run at 1.35v they were actually running at 1.36v - bit odd, power supply maybe? - anyway I manually set these down to 1.34v and the BOIS tells me they are running at 1.344v ... happy with that for now :)


Also, I did a quick OC on the CPU. All cores at 4,400Mhz at stock (auto) voltage. This looks on average about 1.1v across all cores. Fantastic! I haven't had long to tweak with this but as an initial test that's pretty good and great news compared to the problems I was having even booting up with the other DRAM kit.
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #17
Some eye candy for you :)


I can't wait to get these in the case and see how they look.
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #18
Hmm so my excitement over the 3200 RAM booting in XMP was a bit premature :(

It ran for a while and then the dreaded 'Code AF Memory Detect' errors came back while trying to POST … just with XMP enabled and everything else on Auto. Very annoying.

However, the interesting thing here is I swapped out the Corsair HX1000 PSU - which I haven't had any problems with before but it is about 8 years old now - for a brand new Corsair AX1500i

I was kind of hoping this would help but I really wasn't expecting the PSU to be part of the issue... well I was wrong! With the AX1500i installed I haven't seen a single POST failure and the 'Code AF Memory Detect' hasn't appeared once!

This board/chipset/CPU/RAM or some combination of them does seem pretty tricky to get stable. I've built a load of systems and this one has been the biggest pig by far to get running. I am thinking maybe it is especially sensitive to the quality of power supply - given the high clocks (ram/cpu) and huge wattage drawn by the i7900x processor, that could be where my problem was. I will have to see how stable it is over a few days but so far it's looking good.

I had a bit of a play with the CPU clocks, leaving the RAM at 3200 14-14-14-34 (basically left at XMP settings). With everything on Auto I got to 4.6Ghz OC on all cores without any trouble at all (again running with the new PSU).

With a bit more tweaking I got to 5Ghz on my best core with the rest at 4.5Ghz. This took 1.325v on the 5Ghz core with the rest at Auto. The temps though are scary! I hit 102c on that core before I got scared and dialled it back - interesting it didn't throttle due to thermals, at least HW64 didn't report it if it did.
 

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Watercooling
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Discussion Starter #19
I am now running at 4.9Ghz 1.26v on one core with the rest at 4.5Ghz on Auto. RAM still on XMP settings at 3200 14-14-14-34

The temps are still pretty hot - around 90c on full loads. This is with the custom water loop in too. I suspect this may need delidding at some point but that is not something I've done before so I will wait to get everything stable and fully tested before I start hacking the lid off my chip!

I am going to leave it at that for OCing for a while to let it settle in and see if I get any errors or crashing while I finish off the build and I'll keep an eye on those temps too - not sure what will happen after an hour or two of gaming...


Here's the current numbers...
 

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Do yourself a favor and do a delid, it's not that difficult.

I have been doing a bunch of testing on a similar setup, using an i9 7900x and R6E with a Bitspower monoblock and 2x 360mm rads. Delidding dropped temps for me 15 deg C on average for the hottest cores under load, and the temperature spread between cores decreased by a few degrees as well. Before delid the hottest cores could get to 90 deg C on a 1.2v/4.5 GHz all core overclock pretty easily. After delid same testing the hottest cores get to 75-75 deg C.

Good luck with your build. I was originally planning on housing mine in an NZXT H700i, but after testing with panels on my temps were not where I wanted them. So I'm moving my build into a PC-o11 dynamic as well, lol. Just waiting for it to not be backordered any more.
 
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